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death-mobile
11-27-2005, 01:52 AM
I'm measuring for a new driveshaft and Tom Woods asked me to pull the pinion nut and flange off to check the number of splines for the new replacement yoke. My question is: Can I just zip that nut off and pull the flange, and just simply put it back on and torque the nut? Will this disturb the crush collar or pinion seal? And also...that is a pretty high torque if I am correct right? I went on alldata, but it doesn't have my D30 in it. So I guess...if anyone else knows the torque and procedure to install a new yoke on my D30 and a new flange on my NP242 as per a new driveshaft...LET ME KNOW! ha. THANKS

nate
11-27-2005, 03:46 AM
You can just buzz it back on, put you need to be careful not to go too much or you will crush the collar some more and mess up the bearing preload.


It's not the "right" way to do it, but it works if you have the "feel". I've done it on a few D35s that had broken yokes. The right way would be to pull the axle apart down to the pinion and measure the preload when you tighten it to make sure your not going too far.

OverkillZJ
11-27-2005, 01:38 PM
Not the right way, but the odds of hurting something are pretty low.

USE LOCKTIGHT. And hell, if you want to be really paranoid, use a new nut too. You might notice that when the nut is removed, it's oblong, it shapes more round as you gun it on. That's why the FSM calls for a new nut every time.

97trxuszj
11-27-2005, 03:16 PM
so whats the torque, just rattle on it for a few sec and call it good?

nate
11-27-2005, 03:33 PM
When you take the nut off, you will loose the pinion preload, so you'll be able to pull the pinion in and out a bit. When you put the new nut on, you want to eliminate any in/out movement of the pinion. Tighten a little bit, check... tighten, check. Tighten until these's no more movement.

The crush collar isn't super easy to crush, put it will with a decent impact gun if your not careful.

Mtn WJ
11-27-2005, 05:31 PM
I know a lot of people who have done it that way with no issues.

The best way is to pull your calipers off of the front wheels and use an inch pound torque wrench to measure the pre-load resistance by putting the torque wrench on the pinion nut move it back and forth watching the needle for how much torque it takes to move pinion. Then remove the nut and yoke. After you put on the new yoke you will need to tighten the pinion nut until you are able to match the same amount of resistance. I believe it is around 14-18 but you will want to match the exising amount if possible.

Kraqa
11-28-2005, 12:38 AM
i'v had mine off tons. and everythign i put it back on with the same nut and no lock tight. i just use a big freekin breaker bar and torque it down tight. i have had no problems. This may not be the right way but it works for me.

nate
11-28-2005, 02:54 AM
If you leave the shafts and carrier in, you won't be able to measure the preload correctly. Need to remove everything down to the pinion.


I know a lot of people who have done it that way with no issues.

The best way is to pull your calipers off of the front wheels and use an inch pound torque wrench to measure the pre-load resistance by putting the torque wrench on the pinion nut move it back and forth watching the needle for how much torque it takes to move pinion. Then remove the nut and yoke. After you put on the new yoke you will need to tighten the pinion nut until you are able to match the same amount of resistance. I believe it is around 14-18 but you will want to match the exising amount if possible.

Mtn WJ
11-28-2005, 10:33 AM
With what I described you will not actually be measuring the pre load but the resistance it takes to move the pinion which will get you close. But you will need to measure the resistance before you pull the old yoke off. Then match it when you put the new one on. This is even described in the FSM somewhere.