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SuicideTireZJ
11-17-2005, 04:56 PM
Guys... the 35c has GOT to go. Same with the 30.

My rig is a very capable machine as it sits and I love it. However, I just stepped up to 33's and while I'm not too concerned about breaking with open carriers, I want to lock the bitch and be able to whomp on it with no fear. You know, take all the hard ass rocky, loose, steep lines at full throttle. So obviously I can't do this on my current setup, and polishing turds with upgraded shafts, full-floater kits, etc just isn't my style.

However, what to swap in is confusing me. I know that the first swap 80% of the people on these boards is a HP30/8.8" combo which is a pretty decent setup. My dillemna is that I'm planning on throwing down on longarms in a couple years when I graduate and will be swapping some fullwidths at the same time. So I'm thinking, why not now? What's the point of getting a HP30/8.8 all set up only to turn around and sell it after having these on for a couple years. Plus, people seem to think that 8.8's are made of gold and sell them for like $350 (of course I could always go pull one but..) whereas I can snag a 14B for less than $100 in my sleep.

Is there anything wrong with cutting my brackets off and running fullwidths with a stock-style suspension setup? Here's why I'm thinking it's ok:

- Clearance: Although D60/70/14B's are big pumpkins, I'll shave it. I won't be running anything other than 33's but I don't believe that the clearance loss will be THAT bad considering I'm used to running 31's on my current setup.

- Width: My tires are 13.5" wide which means I had to get some insanely unbackspaced rims to make them not rub. Consequently, I'm pretty wide as it is, and my tires stick out past my fenders by about 2.5-3" on either side. If I swap the fullwidths, I'll get something more moderate, like 4-5" backspacing and not be all that much wider than I already am. Wider is better anyway!

Weight might be an issue but I can only really see it affecting ride quality. My junk rides so horrible as it is that I couldn't see it mattering too much anyway, and I could always get off my ass and swap some decent coils in.

I figure I can't put any more money into suspension, because that would mean I'd have to step up to 35's and that's no bueno on axles. So axles come first. This way I can get a relatively bombproof setup that will last me for a while instead of having to redo it somewhere down the line. My ultimate goal is to run 37's at a minimum, and probably more like 39" Krawlers or something to that effect.

JeepinHank
11-17-2005, 05:26 PM
It all depends on what your goals are. If you're never going to go over a 35" tire, the HP30 and 8.8 will be fine for you. If you even remotely imagine going bigger, take your time and start saving.

60's on 33's would be close to (if not) a net loss of ground clearance, when compared to stock axles and ~30" tires.

You could do it... just like you could paint your ZJ pepto pink.

Also, if you run those axles on a stock-like suspension, you're going to have to re-do a bunch of stuff later on when you go longarms anyway.

If it were me, knowing what I know now, I'd say start building some badass axles now, and wait to swap them in when you're doing the suspension. Weld the 35, get a cheap lunch box locker up front, and take it easy on the skinny pedal until you're ready to take the leap.

They'll take a lot of time and $ anyway. If you can hold off and do the build right once, you'll be better off in the long run.

XLSLC
11-17-2005, 05:26 PM
From what I've seen, HP30, 8.8, and d60s are all meaty enough that you can run at least 35's on. If you're going to stick to 33's does it really matter all that much how much overkill axle beef you've got? I would hold out for someone selling a set of axles with gears and lockers ready to go, especially since your time frame is so loose.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
11-17-2005, 05:28 PM
then just wait 15 months until you get done with school and do full-widths and longarms at once. Even if you try to sell the 8.8/HP30 combo you won't get 1/2 out of the time and money you put into it.

If I had to do again I would've done a Toy 8" rear and D44 up front. We just put one in my friends XJ and it has at least 2" of better clearance and came with 4.10's and a LS stock. Also the Toys removable 3rd member makes setting up gears and installing lockers ALOT easier.

SuicideTireZJ
11-17-2005, 05:36 PM
Oh yeah, down the line, AKA when I go to longarms, I'll be running 37's or larger. Really diggin' on 39" Krawlers once I get a job, some money, and my Caddilac CTS-V to DD around :-)



60's on 33's would be close to (if not) a net loss of ground clearance, when compared to stock axles and ~30" tires.


Also, if you run those axles on a stock-like suspension, you're going to have to re-do a bunch of stuff later on when you go longarms anyway.

If it were me, knowing what I know now, I'd say start building some badass axles now, and wait to swap them in when you're doing the suspension. Weld the 35, get a cheap lunch box locker up front, and take it easy on the skinny pedal until you're ready to take the leap.

They'll take a lot of time and $ anyway. If you can hold off and do the build right once, you'll be better off in the long run.


I realize that I will have to redo all the brackets/mounts/ possibly steering, etc. when I go to LA's.

Will my clearance be as you said even if I were to shave the 14B?

I don't know how to take anyone seriously when they say to "weld the 35". I am not afraid of breakage, especially since changing shafts is pretty much cake. I just don't EMBRACE breakage.

JohnBoulderCO
11-17-2005, 08:14 PM
Will my clearance be as you said even if I were to shave the 14B?

Bob (Trango) in Boulder can give that 14b a big time shave.

Bob is always trying to talk me into putting a 14b under my WJ ! :D
Hmmmmm, should I? :eek:

ATL ZJ
11-17-2005, 09:49 PM
Don't waste your time on a d30. Some of the money you piss into it can be recovered, but your time can't. The d30/8.8 combo is incredibly overrated. That's coming from someone running an 8.8. Why is it bad?

Width. My rear quarterpanels and fenders are testament to this fact. 2" backspacing wheels will be going on this week to combat the narrowness and keep the body off roots and rocks a little better. I'm not too concerned about my sheetmetal, but you might be.

Bolt pattern. The d30 is clearly weaker than the 8.8, so chances are you'll be looking to replace it before you see need to swap the 8.8 for something else. A logical swap is the is the waggy 44. This happens to have a 6x5.5" bolt pattern. The 8.8 does not. You're forced into running different bolt patterns, which you might not mind, or dropping at least $300 on custom axle shafts. Adapting from 5x4.5" to 6x5.5" with a spacer/adapter requires them to be two piece, and a minimum of 2.5" inches wide. That option puts you almost fullwidth, which you probably wouldn't want paired with the narrower 62.5" waggy front.

C-Clips. Even alloy shafts can break. I'd love to have the luxury of not worrying about shaft breakage at all if I had a full floating rearend, and be able to snap splines and keep on rolling. Not the case for me as long as I have the 8.8 though.

What does all this amount to? For the same original investment, you can avoid all these problems. There are lots of options. HP44 and 9" are a great place to start, especially if you're concerned about clearance and weight. The 9" can be beefed to 40 spline, meaning it can last you as long as your unibody holds up. The 44 isn't bad in comparison to the d30. If you think you want a locker up front, its manual hubs make life nice so you don't have to feel it on the steet. If you want to do it right the first time, look at d60 fronts, and pick either a d60, d70, or 14b rear. Fullwidth is the way to go in my opinion. I really wish I had to start with.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
11-17-2005, 10:21 PM
this guy stated he only wants to run 33's. full-widths (9", D60, etc) is overkill in my opinion. I am only running 33's and the HP30 was a great swap just because it was so easy. Everyone shits on d30's but in reality they are good axles for most peoples use.

Stick with a manageable tire size and don't kill your gas pedal and you'll be just fine.

ATL ZJ
11-17-2005, 10:50 PM
this guy stated he only wants to run 33's. full-widths (9", D60, etc) is overkill in my opinion.

He also stated that he plans on running 37s or 39s eventually. Might as well do it once and do it right if you're going to the trouble. That does not mean prorock 60s. That means taking into consideration where you'd like it to end up. Just because his tire size for the next year or two is going to be under a 35 doesn't mean that's what he'll run forever. I do admit though, 60s f/r with 33s would be a little silly.

If I were in his position, I'd do my research, gather parts, and start building/preparing for a little while, and just stay with stock axles and 33s for a while. Then when funds were available and I was ready, I'd swap axles, suspension and tires all at once.

XLSLC
11-18-2005, 01:44 AM
On second thought... go hard or go home!!!

http://www.colorado4x4.org/vbb/showthread.php?t=49205

SuicideTireZJ
11-18-2005, 03:00 AM
Unfortunately I think all rockwells are Pass. side drop (I actually know Cory and he was going to throw them under a Blazer) and I JUST swapped my 231 in there so no go. There is a pair of ARB'd 60's on there for the low low price of $5K!

Kraqa
11-18-2005, 04:37 PM
i didnt' think it mattetred with rockwells because they are top loading. And if your going as far as rockwells swapping in a passenger t-case is the smallest of yoru worries.

If your plannign on going 37" tires, then stick with the axles you have now and start aquiring D60 front and 14 blt rear. Build them up over time then swap them in.

for nwo i woudl say get a replacment d35c from someoen swappign out and use that for 9 months.,

Kraqa
11-18-2005, 04:38 PM
wsecoind not that is fucking cheeeep buy those rock wells.

JeepinHank
11-18-2005, 07:05 PM
I don't know how to take anyone seriously when they say to "weld the 35". I am not afraid of breakage, especially since changing shafts is pretty much cake. I just don't EMBRACE breakage.

I think you know what I was saying. Basically don't dump a bunch of money into it. If you're afraid you'll bust the D35 if you lock it, just lock the front. You'll be amazed at what you can do with just a front locker.

I went with the HP30 and 8.8. I haven't broken anything yet, but then again, I've only been on 2 shakedown runs since everything got finished. My build took me over 8 months. That's longer than most, but when you're out with a full time job, you're going to be in for a shock if you think you'll have more free time than you do while you're in shool.

It will take you several months of planning and buying parts. I figured I could be happy with LAs and 35s for a while. This time next year, I already know I'll already be trying to figure out how to go bigger. I put in over $2000 in axles and suspension. If you assume half of that went into the axles, that's at least $1000 less than I could have right now to go 60s.

JMO

ATL ZJ
11-18-2005, 10:30 PM
Right on Hank. I wish I still had d35 shafts. I'd dare you to lock it and then sell you my spares. But on 33s, you should be okay open, unless you absolutely hammer on it. I still say run what you got for a while, then go big.

Swamp boy
11-21-2005, 07:51 PM
IF you have the cash ...Do and 8.8 swap (Just to get rid of the 35) then start looking at Government auctions For a CCUV.. They can be had for a decent price.. (I have seen them go for $1000) Then you will have the Dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear with 4:56 gears already set up... All you will have to do is put on the coil buckets...

Also.. Just so you know.. My buddy Jeff has a shaved 14bolt.. and I am running 8.8 he has 36 swampers on and I am running 35" muddbrutes ...I have about 1.5" of axle clearance more than him.. So think that with 33's you probobly be about an inch or maybe even two less than you have with the 35...

I would not run a 14 bolt without at least having 36's or so.. It is freaking huge.....

Good luck on your decision...

Carl

OverkillZJ
11-21-2005, 08:54 PM
I voted full widths, but then I noticed you're only talking about 33's. HP30/ 8.8 would be more than adequate.

SuicideTireZJ
11-22-2005, 12:48 AM
Guys, you need to get this whole tire size business out of your mind. My main question is this: is there really a benefit on doing two axle swaps to continuing my tire size (30-35--->HP30/8.8 and then HP44(or 60)/14B(or 60FF, or 70) over just straight going to the fullwidths and continually upgrading my suspension and tire size to match? At the lift I'm running, I COULD theoretically fit 35's and would prefer to run those over 33's for clearance issues. So if you're so stuck on tire size, just assume that I'll be running 35's soon enough.

ATL ZJ
11-22-2005, 01:06 AM
Just run what you have, carry spare shafts for the rear, save your money until you know what you want to do exactly and are ready to run a larger tire. The tire business actually is a valid concern, since you should really be building the rest of your jeep accordingly. I wish I'd wheeled more while my Jeep was still smaller.

OverkillZJ
11-22-2005, 12:11 PM
I'd hat to have a 14 bolt rear 60 front with 33's. Or even 35's. Tire size DOES MATTER. It's a system, you can't just slap things together and have it work (huge axles and relatively small tires.) - you'll just get hung up everywhere.

I'm with Cam, run what you've got if you're that concerned with making a hop before a jump up to full widths.

Swamp boy
11-22-2005, 06:01 PM
Ditto...Even if you went with 35's you would not have enough clearance for axles as big as 60's and certainly not a 14 bolt...

I think when you are ready to take the leap to 14 bolt or a pair of 60's also be ready to get yourself some 37's or bigger..

Jim311
11-22-2005, 06:49 PM
I'd love to see you run a 14 bolt with 33s :rofl:



You'd need at least 38s to run a 14 bolt. There's no reason to even consider running one unless you're running 38s or larger IMO. Too large and heavy, and it hangs FAR too low. Just run what you have right now and don't be a dumbass who floors his shit through every obstacle. Use finesse and develop some actual skill instead of smashing the gas. Save that shit for Pirate 4x4. You could swap in an 8.8 with fairly minimal effort if you're that concerned, and then sell the axle and EASILY get what you put into it if you buy it for cheap enough originally. You could find an 8.8 for 150 or 200 bucks easily. Slap in a locker and some gears (Which you can do for 300 bucks or so) and you've got 500 bucks into the whole setup. You can later sell that on this forum for at least 500 bucks or more. At least I know I'd have paid that a while back for said axle. I wouldn't even be considering swapping any fullwidth shit in until you're actually RUNNING bigger tires. There's really no reason to until you get to that point. 33s and 60s is a hystical idea. By the way.. you're going to need more than just axles if you want to run full throttle through everything you can find.. a lot more.

nmzj
11-23-2005, 11:20 AM
Just my opinion, but the HP30/8.8 combo is great for a Grand. The 8.8 has practically the same shafts as a 9" and the 30 has the same u-joint as the d44, both of which are the weak links in the axles.

If you plan to run a large tire (ie >37") then go with a platform that will work better. In other words, loose the unibody/full body rig. Most grands get chopped up to run anything bigger.

Jason

OverkillZJ
11-23-2005, 11:26 AM
I used to say the ujoints were the weak links on the 30, until I blew 2 ring gears (one of which was Yukon set perfectly.) Now I argue that the front 44 does in fact have a purpose, haha.

nmzj
11-23-2005, 01:56 PM
Was it LP or HP? I'd guess it was a LP30. I've seen dozens of u-joints go, a few LP R&P's. I don't think I've seen one HP30 R&P go before a u-joint...

OverkillZJ
11-23-2005, 02:00 PM
Was it LP or HP? I'd guess it was a LP30. I've seen dozens of u-joints go, a few LP R&P's. I don't think I've seen one HP30 R&P go before a u-joint...

HP30. I used to grenade 297's constantly, but 760's would only grenade if the shaft failed first (ears stretched and released a cap, causing ujoint failure. But it's truly shaft failure first.)

Once you weld the caps and run full circle clips, trust me, it can be the R&P that goes first.

EDIT: I just realized I think I first started grinding teeth when I threw it into reverse preventing an endo though, which I'm sure you know reverse HP30 in reverse is the same strength as a LP30 forward.

It comes down to... Ya... I hate 30's. While I used to say 44 was a dumb stepping stone to a 60, with the advents of CTM's / other strong joints and 4340 shafts, It can be several times stronger than a 30. The same upgrades in a 30 only move the weak point.

nathaniel
11-23-2005, 10:35 PM
Something else to consider with hp30-8.8 combo is they can both be found with factory 4.10's which aren't ideal but can be lived with for 33" tires. I believe adds a lot more strength to the ring and pinion on the 30.

I guess i really cant comment to much on the strength of hp30 because i have only wheeled on it like 3 times locked.

I will be finding out soon enough though.

SuicideTireZJ
11-24-2005, 11:09 PM
Yeah I'm running the stock 3.73's in my 30/35c right now and I can live with it but 4.10's would be a huge improvement.

What are some real world numbers for ground clearance under the diff of a shaved 14B? Obviously most people running big ol' axles like that are running them with 37's or bigger but I can do the math myself with different sized tires, obviously.

JohnBoulderCO
11-25-2005, 12:28 AM
Ring gear is 10.5 inches. Divide by 2 and you are at 5.25".

So from the center of the axle, you are 5.25" below for the ring gear.
Add 3/8" for the plate on the bottom after the shave and you are at 5.625". That's with zero ring gear to plate clearance, so I would say expect closer to 6" down from center of axle tube. Some people shave another 1/4" off the ring gear to get even more clearance.

OverkillZJ
11-25-2005, 03:26 AM
Dana 60 vs HP30 ring gear / carrier http://www.bigassjeep.com/pics/phoenix/10.23.05.e.jpg

http://www.bigassjeep.com/pics/phoenix/10.23.05.f.jpg

14 bolt vs 30 carrier
http://www.bigassjeep.com/pics/phoenix/10.15.05.f.jpg

my 14 bolt vs my 44


http://www.bigassjeep.com/pics/phoenix/10.23.05.r.jpg

I don't think I can describe just how big these axles are. People that see them in person just say "holy shit you've got to be kidding me."

Also take into account, how would you be planning to hang these off of a unibody? My 14 bolt weighs 500 pounds. Yes, you read that right. five...hundred...pounds!

I don't know what the front 60 weighs since I didn't get it shipped, but I don't expect it to be much, if any, lighter.

My point is, I don't think you're ready for these axles yet. These are project axles.

OverkillZJ
11-25-2005, 03:31 AM
http://www.bigassjeep.com/pics/phoenix/10.23.05.q.jpgA better comparison shot. I swear the 14 bolt is twice the size of the 44.

Cue-Ball
11-25-2005, 03:46 AM
Matt,

It is truely amazing to see the 30 next to a 60, seen it out at AW's shop before and HOLY SHIT is just about the only thing to say.

SuicideTireZJ
11-25-2005, 04:02 PM
Yeah, even just looking at those things under fullsize pickups makes them look huge.

JohnBoulderCO
11-26-2005, 12:28 AM
Lots of options.
Older Ford pickups came with a D44 in the front and a 9" in the rear. Makes for a nice set to swap in and can be had for dirt cheap.
Lots of options.

JohnBoulderCO
11-26-2005, 12:36 AM
Another option.
Matt's D44 is on e-bay for $1, well, that's the starting bid.

OverkillZJ
11-26-2005, 04:06 AM
Another option.
Matt's D44 is on e-bay for $1, well, that's the starting bid.

LMAO! Ya, I think he should bid like... $5,000!

SuicideTireZJ
11-26-2005, 05:23 AM
Hit me a URL for dat shit. I got 5 on it!!!


(edit: 5 on it as in $5. $5K would be more than I can get for the whole rig!)

Michael
11-27-2005, 09:42 PM
how much does a d35 weigh?

Swamp boy
11-27-2005, 09:52 PM
Bought 37lbs... :smt042:smt042



Actually I think Its about 100 or so.. I can pick one up and carry it...

Not much at all...

Michael
12-09-2005, 11:28 PM
Bought 37lbs... :smt042:smt042



Actually I think Its about 100 or so.. I can pick one up and carry it...

Not much at all...

I'm wondering cause I need an extra. Any way to fit one inside a zj? If its really 100lbs I might just go get one tomorrow.

Jcbzj
12-09-2005, 11:47 PM
Ive had a d60 rear in a land rover...you shouldnt have a problem

Swamp boy
12-10-2005, 12:19 PM
I picked up a 14 bolt and put it in the back of my ZJ(back when I had a back.). So Dana 35 should fit fine...

No problem..

geberhard
12-13-2005, 08:20 PM
14 bolt is cheap, and you can buy and build one for less than a grand. Get a front Frod HP 44, and your are done. can not go much bigger than 37's on a ZJ without severe chopping up, so the 44 and 14 bolt will work great. Instead of a big ass 14 bolt, get a SRW, or C&C (cab and Chassis) like mine, about the same width as a dana 44 stock give or take a few inches. The 14 bolt for your rig is overkill if you are planning to run 35's. Like it was mentioned, running a 14 bolt with less than 36 to 37" (shaved) or 38-39 in stock form will give you crappy clearance.

You failed to mentioned your wheellings tyule, but since you mentioned very little rock crawling and mainly mudding, and for a ZJ that seems mainly street, full widths are a awaste of $$$, unless you are shooting for bling factor ;D

Cue-Ball
12-13-2005, 08:54 PM
full widths are a awaste of $$$, unless you are shooting for bling factor ;D

:bling: It is the bling that's important after all isn't it??:bling:

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
12-13-2005, 10:44 PM
You failed to mentioned your wheellings tyule, but since you mentioned very little rock crawling and mainly mudding, and for a ZJ that seems mainly street, full widths are a awaste of $$$, unless you are shooting for bling factor ;D

BINGO! people find it hard to believe that not everyone needs humungous axles. Its actually true!

33's/8.8/HP30 on my daily driver. works great.

Cue-Ball
12-13-2005, 11:04 PM
I can not decide for sure if I am going with 33's or 35's. I have already bought the 7" RK springs so I think the 33's will look to small, but I have a friend who says the 35's are just WAY too big for the HP30.

Luckly I still have some time to decide.

JHKolb
12-13-2005, 11:19 PM
I can not decide for sure if I am going with 33's or 35's. I have already bought the 7" RK springs so I think the 33's will look to small, but I have a friend who says the 35's are just WAY too big for the HP30.

Luckly I still have some time to decide.

FWIW, I ran HP30 in my XJ for 3 years. I used the Superior Evo shafts w/760 joints, 4:56 gears, ARB and 35" MTRs.

Most of trail time was on rock (at either Paragon Adventure Park or Rausch Creek Offroad Park). Granted I had an automatic which does buffer the drivetrain a bit and I tend to be more of a finess driver than gun-and-go but I NEVER had 1 problem with the HP30.

I would love to have a HP30 in my WJ, but that just seems like to much work. I have tried to find if I could pull the tubes from my WJ LP30 and swap in just te center section making a hybrid HP30. That would give me better clearance, a tad stronger R&P, then swap in custom u-joint shafts and an ARB and for me that would be near perfect in weight/clearance/repairability to run aggressive (rock) trails on up to a 35/36" tire.

Just need to ditch the rear 44A and I'd be cookin'!

Jim311
12-13-2005, 11:55 PM
Dana 60 vs HP30 ring gear / carrier



14 bolt vs 30 carrier



my 14 bolt vs my 44




I don't think I can describe just how big these axles are. People that see them in person just say "holy shit you've got to be kidding me."

Also take into account, how would you be planning to hang these off of a unibody? My 14 bolt weighs 500 pounds. Yes, you read that right. five...hundred...pounds!

I don't know what the front 60 weighs since I didn't get it shipped, but I don't expect it to be much, if any, lighter.

My point is, I don't think you're ready for these axles yet. These are project axles.


500 pounds? You sure? There's one in a junkyard I frequent and I can move it around pretty easy. Granted, I haven't lifted the entire thing by myself, but I didn't think it was 500 pounds! Way too much axle for most people. A 60 is probably a better choice unless you're running 42s or bigger. A little more clearance, too. 14 bolts rule though.. cheap and plentiful, and NEARLY bombproof.

Cue-Ball
12-14-2005, 02:31 AM
FWIW, I ran HP30 in my XJ for 3 years. I used the Superior Evo shafts w/760 joints, 4:56 gears, ARB and 35" MTRs.

Most of trail time was on rock (at either Paragon Adventure Park or Rausch Creek Offroad Park). Granted I had an automatic which does buffer the drivetrain a bit and I tend to be more of a finess driver than gun-and-go but I NEVER had 1 problem with the HP30.

I would love to have a HP30 in my WJ, but that just seems like to much work. I have tried to find if I could pull the tubes from my WJ LP30 and swap in just te center section making a hybrid HP30. That would give me better clearance, a tad stronger R&P, then swap in custom u-joint shafts and an ARB and for me that would be near perfect in weight/clearance/repairability to run aggressive (rock) trails on up to a 35/36" tire.

Just need to ditch the rear 44A and I'd be cookin'!

Thanks John,

I am leaning towards the 35's and always have been.

fr3db3ar
12-15-2005, 09:34 AM
FWIW I ran 35's on my TJ for 2 years...wheeled the piss out of it and never had a problem with the lp 30 :smt039 Went through a couple u-joints but that's it. I even had an aussie in it for the last year. This was with 4.56 gears.

OverkillZJ
12-15-2005, 09:51 AM
500 pounds? You sure? There's one in a junkyard I frequent and I can move it around pretty easy. Granted, I haven't lifted the entire thing by myself, but I didn't think it was 500 pounds! Way too much axle for most people. A 60 is probably a better choice unless you're running 42s or bigger. A little more clearance, too. 14 bolts rule though.. cheap and plentiful, and NEARLY bombproof.

500 pounds with drums, 460 with discs. The shipping weight of my corp 14 w/ discs was 495 with the crate.

I'm able to move it around too, but I don't think I'd try lifting the whole thing, haha.

I don't know what a rear 60 weighs, I have one laying around from a dually and drums, it's still hella heavy though, I bet it's just under 400 or so, not much lighter! My 44 fully built is probably only like 250...

Keep in mind a rear 60 isn't really desirable at all unless you build it. 30 (and not big splines like the 14ner) spline shafts . It's like a 44 with a fatass center section.

JohnBoulderCO
12-16-2005, 12:25 AM
Keep in mind a rear 60 isn't really desirable at all unless you build it. 30 (and not big splines like the 14ner) spline shafts . It's like a 44 with a fatass center section.

True. I just saw on a 4x4 site a guy wanting to trade his D60 for an 8.8

ATL ZJ
12-16-2005, 03:13 PM
It's like a 44 with a fatass center section.

Since d44 rears are full float.. :flipoff2:

Peak ZJ
12-16-2005, 03:16 PM
I say 60's front and rear...
60 is lighter in the rear and better clearance.. Build it with 35 spline shafts and it's super tough... Alloy's up front with CTM's... I have beat hard on mine and no problems at all.. Just remember, the stock 60 shafts in the rear very weak.. We have a guy in the club, 4cyl YJ, that breaks one every ride... He's on 39" Iroks...

Another thing, if your going to alter your suspension, ie. 4 link, or something, don't waste it on something that you will change sooner or later.. Think about what your goal is with your rig.. What is your stopping point..? That way, you can spend the time/money once on the change... (easier said than done.. never works out that way)

MrFreeze5
08-22-2006, 11:13 PM
hmmm. Should I say it.....yep

SPIDER 9'S!!!!!!

:D