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View Full Version : nyone running 1 ton steering using ES2233L,ES2027L, ES2234R WTF?



badzj999
11-13-2005, 05:49 PM
basically im running this steering set up, i bought them from partsmikeparts.com, and was at tellico yesterday and the ES2233L decided to break in half on a perfectly flat hill, nothing hard at all. so i go into town to get a new ES2233L and all the parts stores have the same part # but the taper of the hole the drag link connects to is a lot smaller than the one i have so i try 3 other parts stores and get the same result so i ended up buying the one with the smaller taper and just drilling the hole out so i could get my jeep home. i have several questions about this part, first why the hell is a 1 ton tir rod end breaking in the first place, 2 why are there no es2233l with the taper the same size as the partsmike es2233l and lastly where do i find a es2233l where the drag link connects in front of the tie rod like kraga instead of behind like mine (we are both running same front axle and same steering but his connects in front).

ATL ZJ
11-13-2005, 06:03 PM
The reason that TRE is breaking is because that hole was designed for a steering stabilizer. You're putting all the force of the draglink on it. The other TRE won't fit into the hole in the stock ES2233L because you have to ream it to make it fit.

I run the same setup, and have had no problems, but I wouldn't be surprised if I did experience some breakage with it. Plenty of people on this board have either snapped or bent that TRE. You should probably look into carrying a pre-reamed spare for the trail, or keep a stock one with you, as well as a reamer, and plenty of popcorn for the people that have to wait while you're reaming..

I'd be very interested to hear if anyone has found a larger TRE that would be more bend-resistant to use in place of the ES2233L in inverted T setups.

Cam

Kraqa
11-13-2005, 11:14 PM
that es2233l is crap. i'm goign on number 3.

i'v been lookign for another one that would work and i can't find shit

the consensus woudl be to weld a reinforcing plate on the back side.

nathaniel
11-14-2005, 03:18 AM
I've figured out a way to get rid of the tie rod end with the hole in it.
4" long piece 1.5" box .25 wall with 7/8-18 insert welded into one end and 1" threaded rod welded into the other end then weld a house shaped piece ~3/4" thick onto it with tapered hole in it. Lock down the passenger jamb nut and you still have your tie rod adjustibility because of the 1" threaded rod. You actually dont even have to use the 7/8 stuff at all could use any tie rod ends.
Only difficult part is reaming mild steel.

Opinions?

JeepinHank
11-14-2005, 09:58 AM
I'd be interested in seeing a pic of that...

Kraqa
11-14-2005, 04:36 PM
i did something similar. the problem with that is the welded connection. that is illegal here in canada. i had no other choice but the ES2233L

chadjans
11-15-2005, 01:37 AM
I was under the impression they are failing near the threads. No? Reduce the thread out.

Chad