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gearhead313
10-17-2005, 09:25 AM
Im not responsible if you fuck this up!!!



Removal of the ABS Unit.

Unbolt the cradle.
I removed the proportioning valve with the abs, but later re-used it. You can leave it to save you a step.
Cut the rubber equalizer hoses.
Unscrew/Cut the rear line and the drivers side line. The passenger side runs nicely along the firewall. I cut it, but later re-flared it.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/IMG_0140.jpg



Much cleaner...well.....not "clean" :rolleyes:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/IMG_0141.jpg



The evil brake taker-awayer!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/IMG_0143.jpg



Brake line install. Looking up from underneath the drivers side where the new lines run through.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/IMG_0144.jpg



Dry running a 40" 3/16 line through the bottom.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/IMG_0145.jpg



Union of the 40" and a 72" line. A little long, but gives you what you need to work with.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/IMG_0146.jpg



Installation of the lines

The rear line is the rearward placed one of the two. The factory adapters are used in the front and rear of the proportioning valve outlet.
The front line is 1/2"-20 (green). I had to flare this one together. I ran mine under the master cylinder and over to the fender where the junction is. The passenger side line I moved over to meet the junction.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/IMG_0147.jpg



The drivers side is now connected. I way over estimated the line, so just ran it around the front side there. I'll change it later. Plug the rubber equalizer hoses and its pretty much done.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/IMG_0149.jpg



The rear is simple. I didn't feel I needed to further explain it. I have an 8.8, so all you do is run the line into the ford rubber extension. You can mount it how ever you like.

Road test was great. Since I have rear discs now, the rear brakes to a long more work, which I like, which is why I didn't go with the later ZJ proportioning valve for rear discs. The light is forever on now, so i'd recommend yanking the bulb. Overdrive wasn't effected either.

BigDaveZJ
10-17-2005, 10:22 AM
Or you could just disconnect one of the sensors . . .

OverkillZJ
10-17-2005, 10:43 AM
Or you could just disconnect one of the sensors . . .

Works with our little axles, but when you get into one ton axles and no longer want the proportioning valve in there: this is the route to go. I'll be doing the same. I don't want an entire valving system there I'm not using.

Good writeup!

Kraqa
10-17-2005, 01:51 PM
you may want to add a coil for a strain relief so the line doesn't burst under pressure.

gearhead313
10-17-2005, 05:52 PM
The coils are used for cooling, I have never seen a line burst.


I agree, a different proportioning valve should be used. My application though, it works fine.

Kraqa
10-20-2005, 01:55 AM
the coils arn't used for cooling. they are ther on vehicles with frames and body mounts to isolate the vibration , MC mounted on cab, break linses mounted on frame. it needs a could to isolate the vibration between the two. and cause when you press on the break the line want to straighten , if its already straight then it wants to burst.

gearhead313
10-20-2005, 11:54 AM
the coils arn't used for cooling. they are ther on vehicles with frames and body mounts to isolate the vibration , MC mounted on cab, break linses mounted on frame. it needs a could to isolate the vibration between the two. and cause when you press on the break the line want to straighten , if its already straight then it wants to burst.


I dunno what kinda crack happens up in canadia thur, but the coils are for heat dissipation. Don't spread mis-information if you don't know what your talking about. :smt033

ATL ZJ
10-20-2005, 12:11 PM
I'm with Kris on this one.. Coils allow lines to flex or bend along with a body/frame combination... Just look on any Toyota. Our unibody jeeps didn't get them because the body and frame were not intended to flex separately, since they are unitized on Grand Cherokees, Cherokees, and similarly grocery-oriented vehicles.

Looks good though. I need to get around to that.. How much does all that crap weigh?

Kraqa
10-20-2005, 03:18 PM
Put down your crack pipe and get off yoru high horse!

I will never tell people they are 100% wrong unless i KNOW they are

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question453.htm

Kraqa
10-20-2005, 03:20 PM
You might also want to get a new MC, yours looks melted. After looking at that i would question the condition of the internal seals.

OverkillZJ
10-20-2005, 03:55 PM
Sorry, I'm with Kraqa on this one too. The coils are DEFINITELY there to absorb movement over more tube to prevent them from failing. Nothing to do with cooling, I've never even heard that before...

gearhead313
10-21-2005, 10:29 AM
well good thing you posted the link, b/c we are talking about 2 totally different things. "coiling" brakelines is one thing... this is what I was talking about:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/IMG_0169.jpg



the abs unit and the bracket arn't that heavy. If i was keeping the rig, it makes a ton of room to bob the front.

my master cylinder is fine. I've been driving it around and I have awesome pedal. What needs done though is the reservoir. Fire sux.

Kraqa
10-21-2005, 08:31 PM
I was under the impression those were on the line to help protect it.

OverkillZJ
10-21-2005, 10:11 PM
I was under the impression those were on the line to help protect it.

LOL, they are... also keep it from kinking when you bent it.

Kraqa
10-21-2005, 10:39 PM
yes that too. never herd of them for cooling

Swamp boy
10-22-2005, 07:44 PM
They only cool it if they are painted yellow...

Also if you are able to paint the line yellow and the coil blue they give you 50 HP...:D

AprilzWarrior
11-13-2005, 06:16 PM
well good thing you posted the link, b/c we are talking about 2 totally different things. "coiling" brakelines is one thing... this is what I was talking about:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/IMG_0169.jpg


Those coils ? For Cooling HUH ?



Sure its not called Gravel Guard ? I luv know it alls.

http://www.classictube.com/products.asp
bottom of page. just for Example.

chubrock1021
11-10-2006, 05:28 PM
you got your line backwards on the valve the front fitting is the rear. just a little info i looked it up in the factory manual

nate
11-10-2006, 06:21 PM
The ABS system on my 98 looked nothing close to the setup on your 93.

I just pulled the pump out and was able to use the stock lines after unbending them and bending them where I needed them to go.

It didn't make any difference for my braking since the system wasn't working anyway, but I didn't have a reason to keep it under the hood.

redzj
11-11-2006, 01:17 AM
I need to get some of those cooling coils! I bet I could stop another 25' shorter! :screwy:

gearhead313
11-17-2006, 01:16 AM
If its called gravel guard, then why is it all the way up to the master cylinder? Seriously, like gravel is going to hurt those lines to the effect that those coils will save it? I dont think so "know it all"

The coiling is on there from the factory, why doesn't someone call Chryslers' R&D engineers for answers?



There is no way to reverse the lines, they are two different metric sizes.

AprilzWarrior
11-17-2006, 01:45 AM
If its called gravel guard, then why is it all the way up to the master cylinder? Seriously, like gravel is going to hurt those lines to the effect that those coils will save it? I dont think so "know it all"



Seriously... I POSTED A FAWKING Link, so this proves you just like to argue, hence you being a "know it all". Try searching, or use Google, it works. Nevermind, you knew it already... thats why YOU SAID they are there too COOL !!!! LMAO.

Keep up the great Tech MrHead !

OverkillZJ
11-17-2006, 10:52 AM
If its called gravel guard, then why is it all the way up to the master cylinder? Seriously, like gravel is going to hurt those lines to the effect that those coils will save it? I dont think so "know it all"

The coiling is on there from the factory, why doesn't someone call Chryslers' R&D engineers for answers?



There is no way to reverse the lines, they are two different metric sizes.

Sooo uh, you're still trying to argue it's for cooling?

:smt081

ILikeMud
11-17-2006, 11:06 AM
Uh...cooling eh? Riiiiiiiiiiiiight......

Oh and deleting ABS is a pain in the fucking ass.

nate
11-17-2006, 11:13 AM
Deleting ABS is pretty easy. I did in my ZJ a while back. Took me maybe 2 hrs all said and done and like $10 of parts. I did have the intake and exhaust removed though, so it made it a bit easier.

ILikeMud
11-17-2006, 11:49 AM
My problem was getting all the fittings hooked up correctly.

AprilzWarrior
11-17-2006, 01:10 PM
Deleting ABS is pretty easy. I did in my ZJ a while back. Took me maybe 2 hrs all said and done and like $10 of parts. I did have the intake and exhaust removed though, so it made it a bit easier.


I removed ABS system from a 4.0 ZJ and it too was easy... my V8 compartment is a little more packed, but removing ABS is on my list. Its been disabled for years.

AW

gearhead313
11-18-2006, 09:29 AM
I'm arguing for mear amusment now...

i'm going to coil my control arms so gravel doesn't hurt them!!!! :D :D :D

zj95
11-18-2006, 06:11 PM
trolling is not allowed..

jeepinchiro
12-28-2006, 10:02 PM
To be honest with you, it looks like a huge pain in the ass. I think I will finish yanking the sensors and yank the bulb behind the dash. Thanks for the write up though.

5.9 ANDY
12-05-2007, 01:08 PM
good write up, ill try this on my 98 so i can put in my air compressor for my lockers.

macka
12-29-2007, 02:46 PM
To be honest with you, it looks like a huge pain in the ass. I think I will finish yanking the sensors and yank the bulb behind the dash. Thanks for the write up though.

I was going to go that route too, but I figure that I might as well completely remove it and do the 1 tonne upgrade.

ILikeMud
12-29-2007, 07:29 PM
I was going to go that route too, but I figure that I might as well completely remove it and do the 1 tonne upgrade.

That's what I'm doing.

FortCollinsZJ
12-30-2007, 09:59 AM
I thought that just removing the fuse would cancel out the entire system... Im going to be putting an 8.8 in real soon and I don't plan on hooking up the ABS. So after removing the fuse, will the light always be on? I dont reall want to rip my dash apart... Im not good with fragile shit.

OverkillZJ
12-30-2007, 10:35 AM
The light will stay on unless you remove it, or it burns out.

ILikeMud
12-30-2007, 11:08 AM
The fuse will disable it but removing the ABS pump gives you a little more room under the hood.

Sudz
12-30-2007, 11:27 AM
pull fuse + abs pump relay = no light

OverkillZJ
12-30-2007, 11:48 AM
Nice, there ya go.

The Dude
12-30-2007, 10:30 PM
pull fuse + abs pump relay = no light


Good to know. My "new" shafts dont have tone rings and the abs light is freakin bright, lol.

zj95
12-30-2007, 11:19 PM
i kinda like the light....

I get people that ask what that light is on the dash and i just tell them "It means my Awesome Braking System is working"

loserkid
12-31-2007, 07:24 PM
those coil help prevert overheating in the koonuter valve, because everyone knows that can lead to the carb belt snapping and ruining your piston return springs.

zj95
12-31-2007, 08:22 PM
those coil help prevert overheating in the koonuter valve, because everyone knows that can lead to the carb belt snapping and ruining your piston return springs.


are you talkin dirty?:gayflag:

The Dude
01-01-2008, 12:53 PM
those coil help prevert overheating in the koonuter valve, because everyone knows that can lead to the carb belt snapping and ruining your piston return springs.

Its not that big of a deal...it happened to me once, I just threw in a few cans of compression and everything was fine.

bshows73
01-01-2008, 03:25 PM
i kinda like the light....

I get people that ask what that light is on the dash and i just tell them "It means my Awesome Braking System is working"

It actually stands for "Awesome Bryant Shows" Hahahahahaha:)

ThinkX2
01-17-2008, 04:23 PM
I always figured the light was a heads up suggesting you to alter your braking system.

albersondh
05-30-2008, 10:04 PM
i kinda like the light....

I get people that ask what that light is on the dash and i just tell them "It means my Awesome Braking System is working"


LMFAO!!! I swapped a SR5 gauge cluster (adds a tach, lights and other gauges) into my 87 Toy. The cluster was from a 4 runner and it has an awesome light that can be illuminated, it says "back door". It took me 30 min to install the new cluster, and about two hours to figure out what I could use (other than a switch) to illuminate the "back door" light on the cluster. "Back door" now = my swapped in electric fan is on, you love the "back door" light mod, I know you do....

adgroza
05-10-2009, 10:08 PM
pull fuse + abs pump relay = no light


anyone know where said relay is on a 98 5.9? i know its not under the hood. is it in the fuse pannel?

OHIOZJ
06-29-2009, 10:07 AM
ok, heres my experience with this:

i have a 95 4.0 that has discs front and rear from the factory. and i just swapped axles and still have rear discs.
the problem was i couldnt get a good firm pedal feel with the brakes all hooked up. we bled them many times with no luck. well the abs doesnt/cant work with the new axles anyway. so finally i decided to just bypass it and pull the abs pump.
i did alot of reading and thought it would be realitvely easy. but it wasnt. the abs pump had 2 inlets off the mc, and 3 outlets (one for front left, front right, and rear) all of which had different size/pitch threads, and all had bubble flares, not standard flares. i went to 2 different parts stores trying to find bubble to std. flare adapters and didnt have any luck. so i tried just getting a 't' with the 2 different size threads on them that matched the ones that came out of the abs pump, no luck. all the brake 't's and fittings at the parts stores are for standard 3/16" us thread standard flare fittings.

so..... in order for me to get all the fittings back to the 3/16 like i needed i had to re run all the brake lines, from the front to the back, and across the motor to the pass side. the driver side was short and easy.
the reason i had to do it that way was the premade lengths of brake line at the stores had the 3/16 std. flare on both ends, none had the 3/16 (caliper end) to whatever size and thread the abs pump end had.

and i have zero experience flaring brake lines with a flare tool. so i didnt want to cut it off and put a 3/16 fitting on then flare it to std. flare. the idea of doing that with it still in the vehicle didnt appeal to me.

but i got it done, now the jeep has all new brake lines, and if i ever damage one i can easily replace them with the standard flare 3/16" pre length lines. no adapters and crazy extensions to deal with.

ScottyB
06-29-2009, 03:55 PM
pull fuse + abs pump relay = no light

I did this on an explorer.....but it should also be applicable to a Grand (I haven't taken a real close look yet). If you take the ABS pump out you'll have an unused pump relay.....or if you want to go the easy way and pull the relay you can just cut two wires and rewire it for another use. I'm not a big fan of a clucker-fawk of wires and shit mounted everywhere so with a few wire cuts and spices I was able to have the relay for my lights in the factory fuse/relay box. It works nice because at least on the ford, there was a nice beefy power wire already feeding the relay. All you need to do is hook your switch wire to the relay, and change where the power output wire goes. I know on the ford there were 2 relays I could have done this too....if you have a Grand with a security system that you don't care about theres a box under the glovebox with a few relays in there that can be re-used. Just a thought for some of you guys!

cLAYH
07-05-2009, 05:40 PM
OhioZJ,

A big problem with the ABS system is that if air gets into the abs pump or valving it needs to be bleed to get it to work right. So if you take a long time to swap axles and the master cylinder runs dry its a nightmare to bleed.

In my case on my '93 you need and scan tool(not a cheapie either) to put the pump into bleed mode. Before it will do that it does a self diagnostic and checks all the sensors. So I had to hook back up all the sensors and then use the scanner to get the pump to purge itself of the air and then you can bleed the system. I'm guessing this is the problem you ran into on your '95. Without a scanner you couldn't properly bleed the abs system.

When I get the chance I'll be gutting my ABS as well.

96JGCL
12-17-2009, 09:14 PM
Bump, just finished some work on the pig, managed too Pull the ABS in under 45 min. Didn't have the fittings too reconnect the lines, but i gotta replace the lines anyways since they're rotted, So i crimped the lines and plugged the system, ill wait till i replace the lines too fix it.

Easy as hell, but..


pull fuse + abs pump relay = no light

I yanked the ABS relay under the hood, Now wheres the fuse? cuz that light is crazy annoying

96JGCL
02-05-2010, 03:16 AM
Bumporino

Just Cleaned up the master, and got a new line run too the back (All lines were rotten too shit.

Pulled the fuse, so the damn ABS light went off.

jeeps got back brakes only and all i can say is holy fuck those things are weak. Ill be happy when i can get a t-block and finish the front brakes.

Very easy and worthwhile mod!

TheCompound
03-01-2010, 10:06 PM
I dont have time to remove the whole ABS system from the 1994 ZJ. My problem is the lines in the wheel wells are interfering with the springs. What would happen if i just removed those lines (i.e.. cut them) but left the rest of the system?
I know this is a half ass way to do this but i have a no time and a trip planned for this weekend.
thanks,
-theCompound

FortCollinsZJ
03-01-2010, 10:24 PM
I cut mine LONG before I removed the ABS pump. Just unbolt the sensor at the wheels (inside the knuckle) then un-clip the sensor at the pump, then the whole line comes out. Or just cut it like you said.

TheCompound
03-01-2010, 11:49 PM
I cut mine LONG before I removed the ABS pump. Just unbolt the sensor at the wheels (inside the knuckle) then un-clip the sensor at the pump, then the whole line comes out. Or just cut it like you said.


Thank you!
-TheCompound

stockzjwnc
03-11-2010, 06:13 PM
How do i get the ABS light to go off on the dash?

SirFuego
03-11-2010, 06:23 PM
Remove the bulb.

IndyZJ
03-11-2010, 07:46 PM
How do i get the ABS light to go off on the dash?

Read the thread before posting. Posts 37 and 52 both answer your question.

TheCompound
03-15-2010, 09:52 PM
How do i get the ABS light to go off on the dash?

I dont look at the dash gauges!
-TheCompound

Dragonfuel
06-13-2010, 11:50 AM
The ABS system on my 98 looked nothing close to the setup on your 93.

I just pulled the pump out and was able to use the stock lines after unbending them and bending them where I needed them to go.

It didn't make any difference for my braking since the system wasn't working anyway, but I didn't have a reason to keep it under the hood.

So I am in the process of Neutering my ABS system. Pump/Cab Module, sensors & lines.

On my 97 Grand w/ 5.2, the master cylinder has two lines coming out (Primary and Secondary) and feeding in to the proportioning/combination valve, then to the Pump/Cab module. Did you just use a "T" Union to split the front brake's? I see the Pump has 2 lines coming in and 3 out. One for each front wheel and one to the rear brakes.

If yes, is this system working with no brake pull from one side to the other? Just curious?

jborushko
06-13-2010, 12:19 PM
here is another guide.

it is a non abs XJ using the stock ZJ valve for a rear disk brake swap, i used it because im tearing out the abs and have disk in the back and obviously had a stock ZJ prop valve

this one reuses the stock [ZJ] proportioning valve.

http://www.jeep-xj.info/HowtoZJvalve.htm (http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Proportioning_Valve_Mod.htm)

this is a xj write up using a zj valve so you already have the valve in the write up. all you do is add a line to what is already there by removing a plug. this is for disk brakes.

i used the above to cut mine [abs] out, i just finished yesterday- it took me forever to find "speed bleed" bleed screws around here! ill report on this when i get my rear diff filled up so i can test drive it. i like the "speed bleeders" because they have a check valve in them, so you dont have to have a buddy while bleeding brakes! - i often work alone.

EDIT: also i replaced ALL the lines. 25" of 3/16 brake line was less than $20 from autozone then a few correct fittings $5ish for a 5ea box - i bought a few different types but i have a few different vehicles im doing brakes on. also a conversion piece for like $2. so all in all i payed around $40 to completely re-plumb everything - again with i bought extra fittings, you would probably pay less. Personally why waist time with old lines that could be rotted or junk yard they maybe cut somewhere! i look the gravel guards off all the old lines and placed them on the new ones after cleaning them up (wd-40 and a wire brush) and i was having a hell of a time trying to flare the OE lines!

and as far as ABS lights go... i took out the main fuse in the relay box in the engine bay along with the ABS relay. then the small fuse in side the cab relay box this killed the light. so a total of two fuses and one relay had to be removed to kill the light. i also removed the sensors from the fronts(pulled out of the connectors in the engine bay) the rear had been long since cut when i tried the 8.8 abs mod - 8.8 mod didnt work for me

Dragonfuel
06-13-2010, 02:07 PM
here is another guide.

it is a non abs XJ using the stock ZJ valve for a rear disk brake swap, i used it because im tearing out the abs and have disk in the back and obviously had a stock ZJ prop valve

this one reuses the stock [ZJ] proportioning valve.

http://www.jeep-xj.info/HowtoZJvalve.htm (http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Proportioning_Valve_Mod.htm)

this is a xj write up using a zj valve so you already have the valve in the write up. all you do is add a line to what is already there by removing a plug. this is for disk brakes.

i used the above to cut mine [abs] out, i just finished yesterday- it took me forever to find "speed bleed" bleed screws around here! ill report on this when i get my rear diff filled up so i can test drive it. i like the "speed bleeders" because they have a check valve in them, so you dont have to have a buddy while bleeding brakes! - i often work alone.

EDIT: also i replaced ALL the lines. 25" of 3/16 brake line was less than $20 from autozone then a few correct fittings $5ish for a 5ea box - i bought a few different types but i have a few different vehicles im doing brakes on. also a conversion piece for like $2. so all in all i payed around $40 to completely re-plumb everything - again with i bought extra fittings, you would probably pay less. Personally why waist time with old lines that could be rotted or junk yard they maybe cut somewhere! i look the gravel guards off all the old lines and placed them on the new ones after cleaning them up (wd-40 and a wire brush)

and as far as ABS lights go... i took out the main fuse in the relay box in the engine bay along with the ABS relay. then the small fuse in side the cab relay box this killed the light. so a total of two fuses and one relay had to be removed to kill the light. i also removed the sensors from the fronts(pulled out of the connectors in the engine bay) the rear had been long since cut when i tried the 8.8 abs mod - 8.8 mod didnt work for me

That's good info. However, I have rear disc's and was going to "delete" the ABS Motor/CAB assembly. I will try to take pics and document everything on here if poss.

jborushko
06-13-2010, 05:02 PM
That's good info. However, I have rear disc's and was going to "delete" the ABS Motor/CAB assembly. I will try to take pics and document everything on here if poss.


right, thats what i did. i used the plumbing in the link as a guide - i also have rear disks. the guy was using a zj prop valve because he was doing a disk brake conversion

http://i714.photobucket.com/albums/ww141/once_with_words/brakepropvalverouting.jpg?t=1276465179

jborushko
06-15-2010, 02:00 AM
well the heep stops! so it at least works.

i havent had a chance to try a full out 60-0 stop but driving around the block and in the driveway. it stopped my rig. i believe i may still have some air in the lines so i have to bleed again.

im rocking front wheel drive at the moment as i need a new rear shaft.

so when i get my tabs updated, rear drive-shaft in, and a bleed ill try stops at increasing speeds, and a few slam on the brake stops too.

K2
05-23-2011, 11:55 AM
After finishing this last night I have a few thoughts. Buy at least two new lines, front driver and the rear. I tried to flare them and it wasn't worth the hassle. Just buy some lines the right length so you can bend them right to where you need them. Don't be cheap, not worth your time. I needed a T, 3 lines, 2 were for the rear, a 72" and a 30" worked, I also used a conversion for the rear out of the proportioning valve to standard 3/16ths line. I put in SS flex lines at the same time. I think the brakes are better but I also put 33s on so it is hard to tell. I can grab some pics and part numbers tonight if anyone wants.

firehawkclone
12-22-2011, 12:04 AM
I just completed this, though I haven't drove it yet.

After reading the tread several times, I went to the parts store and picked up most of the common parts listed here. Unless you suspect your brake lines for corrosion you may not need most of it.

This is what I did. You'll need two flare nuts and a T fitting and a small piece (2") of tubing. I bought a 8" line. All need to be 3/16. After removing abs unit loosen the lines and rotate propositioning valve. You'll have to bend the short line a bit. Cut the flex line from abs to PP valve and reuse both fittings on the PP valve. Now just cut bend and flare all the lines till you are happy.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/firehawkclone/b90d5241.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/firehawkclone/54768fbb.jpg
P#'s 130333(t fitting) 121003(flare fittings)

redneckrollercoaster
01-06-2012, 01:34 AM
...I will MOST LIKELY get flamed for this question, but I'll ask it anyway. Does a proportioning valve HAVE to be horizontal or can it sit kinda vertical? Did the delete and I still have s*&tferbrakes (low pedal, weak stop, will be replacing mc with stock replacement this weekend). Have rodeo rear w/ discs, waggy 44 front, disc/drum mc w/ disc/disc prop valve. Bled to my heart's discontent to no avail. No my calipers aren't upside down, new loaded calipers and rotors all around...before I throw more time and money at this thing could it be as simple as putting the prop valve in the right position (like all of you folks did)? I'll throw in another stupid question as well. The writeup says to plug the equalizer hoses coming off the side of the fluid reservoir...I thought I'd be a smart guy and just connect one hose to both ports. Could that be part of my problem as well? Yeah, I chose to make THIS my inaugural post on MALLCRAWLIN. I would put up a picture but I AM ASHAMED. My zeej has kinda always had weak brakes, that's why I think it might be the MC. If I posted this wrong it's because I am less proficient at this 'net stuff than I am on diagnosing my own brake problems. Thanks and hello all.

albertazj
01-07-2012, 10:13 PM
The proportioning valve can be mounted any way. They use a spring, piston and pressure to work, nothing that would require gravity or specific orientation to work

96JGCL
01-08-2012, 12:25 PM
So I am in the process of Neutering my ABS system. Pump/Cab Module, sensors & lines.

On my 97 Grand w/ 5.2, the master cylinder has two lines coming out (Primary and Secondary) and feeding in to the proportioning/combination valve, then to the Pump/Cab module. Did you just use a "T" Union to split the front brake's? I see the Pump has 2 lines coming in and 3 out. One for each front wheel and one to the rear brakes.

If yes, is this system working with no brake pull from one side to the other? Just curious?


IIRC, i used the stock prop. valve and ran one line too the drivers front, one line too the passenger front, than the 3rd back too the t fitting on the rear axle. works like a charm

redneckrollercoaster
01-08-2012, 01:38 PM
Thanks alberta...one less thing to troubleshoot.

98zjkid
01-03-2013, 09:34 PM
has anyone changed out there stock proportioning valve for one from a 98 99 cherokee one that didnt have abs so that way ud have all three lines to the valve instead of the t for the two fonts?

OverkillZJ
01-03-2013, 10:58 PM
^ What?

moparrr07
01-04-2013, 02:16 AM
has anyone changed out there stock proportioning valve for one from a 98 99 cherokee one that didnt have abs so that way ud have all three lines to the valve instead of the t for the two fonts?

a brake line t for the part store is way cheaper, plus the prop valve in an xj is for drum rear brakes, it will be all sorts of wrong

polar_jeep_04
06-03-2013, 01:53 PM
This might be an unnecessary bump but I'm doing this on a 5.9 and there is no need for a T. The stock valve has a fitting already for the other front line. Looks cleaner and factory without a T and its one less junction to worry about.