BigDaveZJ
09-08-2005, 09:22 PM
Finally getting around to this when I realized Pam uploaded the pics a while back, LOL.
The stock ZJ steering leaves a lot to be desired. As you put on bigger tires and more lift, more stress is put on the parts and the angles become worse. While the Currie system doesn't really address any of the angles, it definately addresses the strength. And frankly, if you're going to be doing anything involving the angles, you should probably just ditch the Dana 30 anyways and start looking into 44's or 60's as the steering options are much better with the more heavy duty axles.
I ordered my setup from Summit Racing. Good response time, had the stuff quicker than I expected. My experience was under promise, over deliver. I like that.
Here's how Currie describes the product:
The Currie heavy duty tie rod and drag link system for TJ, XJ, and MJ vehicles features a 1 1/4" diameter forged chrome moly drag link, 1 1/4" chrome moly bar stock tie rod that is bored and threaded on the ends. All 7/8" thread tie rod ends with urethane boots, and jam nuts are includeds, as well as the new heavy duty steering stabilizer bracket. This unit is a direct replacement for the stock unit - no modifications or machining to any part of the vehicle is necessary.
Here's how I describe the product:
BEEF
The Currie tie rod and drag link are noticeably larger than the stock V8 steering, showing in this picture:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00009.jpg
Here is everything the Currie setup comes with:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00003.jpg
Installation is pretty straight forward. On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd say maybe a 3 or 4. Not many tools are needed, just your basic sockets and ratchets (can't remember the size of the castle nuts off-hand) and a pickle fork or the like is VERY helpful in getting the old stuff off.
If you're reading this, I'm assuming you have a basic idea of how to remove the steering stuff, if you don't, I'll give ya the basics. Pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut, take off castle nut, use pickle fork or the like to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle's and pitman arms. Air tools can be a big help here too getting the old castle nuts off. You'll also need to remove the steering stabilizer. That's usually the fun part. REMEMBER, do NOT hit the bolt itself when doing this. Take your BFH and hit the draglink on the outside of where the pressed bolt goes through. PB Blaster might help you out a bit too.
Here we have everything removed from my ZJ:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00007.jpg
Note that my swaybar is missing. It is NOT required to remove your swaybar for this, I just haven't had mine on for a few years. Remove swaybars at your discretion, your Jeep WILL drive like crap without it.
Installtion is pretty cut and dry. Just bolt stuff up where you took stuff off. Make sure you put the new cotter pins in once the castle nuts are on. When the new steering is in place, it should look something like this:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00011.jpg
I had not installed the new steering stabilizer bracket at this point, but that's pretty easy. Be sure to check for any clearance issues with the bracket and the stabilizer. My first attempt yielded the SS rubbing on the tie rod, and attempt #2 yielded some small dents in the oil pan after some hard-core baja action.
Once everything is in place, be sure to grease your new TRE's (tie rod ends). In this picture, my beautiful assistant is doing just that:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00015.jpg
Now there's a 99.9999999999% chance the steering portion of your alignment is WAAAAAAAAAAAY off. No big deal, it's an easy fix. I'm going to briefly touch on how to do an alignment in your driveway/garage/barn. If you don't feel comfortable in your skills on this, get it "good 'nuff" and then take it to a professional alignment shop.
You'll notice several adjustment collars on the steering. One on the tie rod, one on the drag link. The one on the tie rod will adjust your toe, and the one on your drag link will center the steering wheel properly. A helper is always nice for this part too.
I usually start with the toe first. Find a spot on the front of the tire that's easy to measure from. Put a tape to it, and measure to the same spot on the tire on the other side. Now go to the SAME EXACT SPOT on the backside of the tire and measure that. Adjust the sleeve on the tie rod until the front is about 1/8" less than the back. You'll have to measure a few times to get it right, but it's pretty easy. Once the toe is set, tighten up the adjustment collar on the tie rod and move on to the draglink. Have your helper get in the Jeep and watch the steering wheel. Rotate the adjustment collar on the drag link until your helper says it's right. Then check to make sure your helper isn't a moron. Tighten up the collar and take 'er for a spin.
BUT REMEMBER, you just totally messed with your steering. Take it easy at first. Don't jump right out onto the Autobahn. You may need to make a few small adjustments to both adjustment collars. I find that improper toe is my most common cause of death wobble, so tweak it a little bit if you get some wobbly action going on.
Again, don't be afraid to take your rig to a reputable alignment shop to have them fine tune it if need be. Ask around on your local boards for a good spot to go. If you're in Denver, Astro Automotive is a great shop for an alignment.
Also, be sure to grease the TRE's when you're doing your regular maintenence.
That about covers it for the Currie HD Steering setup. It's not a bad idea while you're under there to check for cracks in the mounting tabs on the steering box either. I found a few here recently and will also be upgrading my steering box so I can have a completely uber bling steering setup for my kickass Dana turdy!!!!
EDIT:
After having the steering on for a while, I feel I can comment on the strength of it. I bashed it in Moab, and had some more fun in Colorado. I was certainly more confident on what my steering could handle and was not afraid to use the tie rod as a front diff skid. Confidence really is a good word for what the Currie HD Steering gives you. All the joints are still tight, and the adjustment collars have held. I took the ZJ through the imfamous Golden Crack in Moab with no issues. This obstacle puts more stress on steering components than any other I've encountered and the Currie HD Steering took it in stride.
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/gsw05/GSW05%20093.jpg
I'll update this as I use the product more. I plan on putting through a lot more stress this coming summer, hopefully with the addition of a PSC 621MR box!
The stock ZJ steering leaves a lot to be desired. As you put on bigger tires and more lift, more stress is put on the parts and the angles become worse. While the Currie system doesn't really address any of the angles, it definately addresses the strength. And frankly, if you're going to be doing anything involving the angles, you should probably just ditch the Dana 30 anyways and start looking into 44's or 60's as the steering options are much better with the more heavy duty axles.
I ordered my setup from Summit Racing. Good response time, had the stuff quicker than I expected. My experience was under promise, over deliver. I like that.
Here's how Currie describes the product:
The Currie heavy duty tie rod and drag link system for TJ, XJ, and MJ vehicles features a 1 1/4" diameter forged chrome moly drag link, 1 1/4" chrome moly bar stock tie rod that is bored and threaded on the ends. All 7/8" thread tie rod ends with urethane boots, and jam nuts are includeds, as well as the new heavy duty steering stabilizer bracket. This unit is a direct replacement for the stock unit - no modifications or machining to any part of the vehicle is necessary.
Here's how I describe the product:
BEEF
The Currie tie rod and drag link are noticeably larger than the stock V8 steering, showing in this picture:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00009.jpg
Here is everything the Currie setup comes with:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00003.jpg
Installation is pretty straight forward. On a scale of 1 to 10, I'd say maybe a 3 or 4. Not many tools are needed, just your basic sockets and ratchets (can't remember the size of the castle nuts off-hand) and a pickle fork or the like is VERY helpful in getting the old stuff off.
If you're reading this, I'm assuming you have a basic idea of how to remove the steering stuff, if you don't, I'll give ya the basics. Pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut, take off castle nut, use pickle fork or the like to remove the tie rod end from the knuckle's and pitman arms. Air tools can be a big help here too getting the old castle nuts off. You'll also need to remove the steering stabilizer. That's usually the fun part. REMEMBER, do NOT hit the bolt itself when doing this. Take your BFH and hit the draglink on the outside of where the pressed bolt goes through. PB Blaster might help you out a bit too.
Here we have everything removed from my ZJ:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00007.jpg
Note that my swaybar is missing. It is NOT required to remove your swaybar for this, I just haven't had mine on for a few years. Remove swaybars at your discretion, your Jeep WILL drive like crap without it.
Installtion is pretty cut and dry. Just bolt stuff up where you took stuff off. Make sure you put the new cotter pins in once the castle nuts are on. When the new steering is in place, it should look something like this:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00011.jpg
I had not installed the new steering stabilizer bracket at this point, but that's pretty easy. Be sure to check for any clearance issues with the bracket and the stabilizer. My first attempt yielded the SS rubbing on the tie rod, and attempt #2 yielded some small dents in the oil pan after some hard-core baja action.
Once everything is in place, be sure to grease your new TRE's (tie rod ends). In this picture, my beautiful assistant is doing just that:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/tierodswap/Image00015.jpg
Now there's a 99.9999999999% chance the steering portion of your alignment is WAAAAAAAAAAAY off. No big deal, it's an easy fix. I'm going to briefly touch on how to do an alignment in your driveway/garage/barn. If you don't feel comfortable in your skills on this, get it "good 'nuff" and then take it to a professional alignment shop.
You'll notice several adjustment collars on the steering. One on the tie rod, one on the drag link. The one on the tie rod will adjust your toe, and the one on your drag link will center the steering wheel properly. A helper is always nice for this part too.
I usually start with the toe first. Find a spot on the front of the tire that's easy to measure from. Put a tape to it, and measure to the same spot on the tire on the other side. Now go to the SAME EXACT SPOT on the backside of the tire and measure that. Adjust the sleeve on the tie rod until the front is about 1/8" less than the back. You'll have to measure a few times to get it right, but it's pretty easy. Once the toe is set, tighten up the adjustment collar on the tie rod and move on to the draglink. Have your helper get in the Jeep and watch the steering wheel. Rotate the adjustment collar on the drag link until your helper says it's right. Then check to make sure your helper isn't a moron. Tighten up the collar and take 'er for a spin.
BUT REMEMBER, you just totally messed with your steering. Take it easy at first. Don't jump right out onto the Autobahn. You may need to make a few small adjustments to both adjustment collars. I find that improper toe is my most common cause of death wobble, so tweak it a little bit if you get some wobbly action going on.
Again, don't be afraid to take your rig to a reputable alignment shop to have them fine tune it if need be. Ask around on your local boards for a good spot to go. If you're in Denver, Astro Automotive is a great shop for an alignment.
Also, be sure to grease the TRE's when you're doing your regular maintenence.
That about covers it for the Currie HD Steering setup. It's not a bad idea while you're under there to check for cracks in the mounting tabs on the steering box either. I found a few here recently and will also be upgrading my steering box so I can have a completely uber bling steering setup for my kickass Dana turdy!!!!
EDIT:
After having the steering on for a while, I feel I can comment on the strength of it. I bashed it in Moab, and had some more fun in Colorado. I was certainly more confident on what my steering could handle and was not afraid to use the tie rod as a front diff skid. Confidence really is a good word for what the Currie HD Steering gives you. All the joints are still tight, and the adjustment collars have held. I took the ZJ through the imfamous Golden Crack in Moab with no issues. This obstacle puts more stress on steering components than any other I've encountered and the Currie HD Steering took it in stride.
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/wheelinpics/gsw05/GSW05%20093.jpg
I'll update this as I use the product more. I plan on putting through a lot more stress this coming summer, hopefully with the addition of a PSC 621MR box!