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View Full Version : For Those who have made their own Sliders



offroadzj
07-09-2005, 12:03 AM
I am thinking about starting on some rock sliders for my ZJ. I have done some welding before, and my dad is really good at it, so I figured some sliders would be a fairly simple project to begin with. The design I was thinking consists of rectangular tube steel (say 2"x4" or 1"x3") as the actual sliders. Then there would be 4 supports taht would go to the unibody "rail" and bolt to that using a piece of steel that would wrap around the rail, and get bolted w/ 2 bolts straight through the "rail". That way the bolt/nut would only be pulling against the solid steel, and not the unibody itself. Now here are my questions:
1) Would this design work, and be able to live up to some decent side rocks?
2) WHat thickness should I look for?
3) Anybody have any pictures of how you did yours?

Thanks

Kenny

Kraqa
07-09-2005, 03:00 AM
the 2x4 is typical. but i see no way why the 1x3 wouldn't work. most people use 2x4 with two supports to the frame. 4 is alittle over kill. this really isn't super technical sooooooo.......off to newbie tech

offroadzj
07-09-2005, 03:10 AM
i wasnt sure if it was general tech worthy, but hey... its worth a try... lol
Thanks

Kenny

Troy
07-09-2005, 08:02 AM
My first set of rock sliders worked like this... Two supports (2X2 box) with flat bar feet off of the frame rail, holes drilled through the entire frame rail to bolt on. Drilled small holes in the pinch weld at the bottom of the rocker and used a piece of flat bar down it (on edge). This will distribute the upward forces across the entire pinch weld of the rocker. For the body of the slideer I used 2X2 down the length of the rocker and used 2" pipe rigged outside. The best picture I have of the the final product is below. I worked these hard and never had an issue.

http://smallnet.homeip.net/jeepzj/pics/older_pics/images/36330384_jpg.jpg

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
07-09-2005, 10:43 AM
4 supports going to the unibody is a little overkill. I made mine out of 2x2 box as the actual slider part and some round tube to give some lateral protection. As for the support beams I used more 2x2 and some angle iron to wrap around the framerail. They're welded on to the framerail and the pinch weld. Check the members ride section for pics. I made them for less than $100.

Trancezj
07-11-2005, 10:27 AM
I used 3 supports welded straight to the unibody. I cut the rocker out where the supports go in. It's 2x2 steel. Works fine.

robselina
07-12-2005, 01:29 PM
two supports each side should be sufficient. As for thickness, 3/16" would be fine IMO, but you could go either 1/8" or 1/4" depending on whether you want ultimate strength or lighter on the weight. The 1/8" will dent on a good hit but it'll do the job....

As for the design in general, usually people will also drill and tap the rectangular tubing so they can run some bolts through the pinch seam on the rocker so the slider is directly attached to the rocker in addition to the frame 'rails'.

offroadzj
07-13-2005, 01:30 AM
would 3/16 tubing be thick enough to get a solid tap into it to where it would hold strong? It seems as if there wouldnt be enough threads to really be effective...
Thanks

Kenny

8WR_ZJ
04-03-2006, 10:31 AM
sleeved my "frame" rails w/ 4x4x1/4. i was wondering yalls input on sliders. i can just attach it to the frame now that its sleeved right? and not worry about the pinch seam. am i thinking crazy or should i still try to attach it to pinch seam?

MUDDTRACKS
04-03-2006, 12:07 PM
I would weld to the pinch also.

I used 2x4x3/16 sqaure with 2 saports to the frame rail made of 2x4x3/16 welded to 1/4x3x4 angle then welded in a few spots along the pinch

97trxuszj
04-03-2006, 12:22 PM
I used 2x4 box as the main part, with 1.5" DOM peices goign to the frame with 3x3 angle iron on the unibody side welded there, also welded to the pinch, with a 2x2 step on the outside like kevins LP-1.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b211/dirtyjeepzj/slidermounts.jpg

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
04-03-2006, 03:13 PM
Does your Clayton's subframe interfere with the sliders? thats gonna be my problem in the near future.

97trxuszj
04-03-2006, 03:39 PM
I just changed my rear mounting point, instead of a peice of angle iron I used a peice of 3/16" flat stock cut to about a 3x3 square and welded it right above the rear LA bracket

offroadzj
04-04-2006, 08:46 PM
can you use anything thinner than 3/16? I took a trip to my local metal shop, and got an estimate for about $8 per foot for 2x4x3/16. He said that 1x3x1/8 should be plenty, and that it would save me quite a bit, but I trust you guys better than his opinion... lol.
Thanks again.

kenny

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
04-05-2006, 01:14 AM
do it once, do it right.

offroadzj
04-05-2006, 02:03 AM
so im guessing that means stick with 3/16... lol.

doyll
04-07-2006, 11:14 PM
Only suggestion I have is mount them far enough out from pinch weld so you can use handyman jack on them without hitting side of rig. Or put nerf bars onto rails to jack on. Unless you have aftermarket bumpers, you have nowhere to jack except under frame or axles.

Just my humble thoughts.

Lloyd

doyll
04-07-2006, 11:18 PM
Only suggestion I have is mount them far enough out from pinch weld so you can use handyman jack on them without hitting side of rig. Put nerf bars onto rails to jack on if using 2x2 or 2x3. 2x4 can be set out enough to jack on. Unless you have aftermarket bumpers, you have no where to jack except under frame or axles.

Just my humble thoughts.

Lloyds

nate
04-08-2006, 02:39 AM
3/16" minimum, 1/4" ideal.

Steel isn't cheap. The rear truss on my 8.8 cost me $70 in steel since I had to buy a 10 ft stick.

MUDDTRACKS
04-08-2006, 06:59 PM
I went with the 2x4x3/16 box with 2 supports going to frame rail and three peace's of flat bar from slider to pinch weld.

Then to beef it up more (not that i had 2)I put a peace of 3x4 angleon top of slider and welded along the top does well for covering the stock rocker pannel.