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View Full Version : Motor blown, stroker build begins.



2drezq
07-07-2005, 03:16 PM
After 197K of faithful service, tuesday (without warning), the 4.0 suddenly gave up the fight.
:pissed:
Except that this is my DD (& my wifes beloved!) & this is going to set me back months on my finances, I'm not totally upset. I've worked out a payment plan with the engine builder (I'll do most of the work myself) & told him to throw the 258 crank (& rods) in the cooker and grind it.

4.7 stroker & Nitrous on the way...

TrojanMan
07-07-2005, 04:44 PM
I hope you're ready for alot of mess. I'm here if you have any questions about it.

Jim311
07-07-2005, 05:20 PM
Welcome to the "I'm completely broke" motor swap crew.

Cue-Ball
07-07-2005, 05:28 PM
Keep us posted, take alot of pix. I am sure this is not too far off in my future either.

2drezq
07-07-2005, 06:56 PM
I hope you're ready for alot of mess. I'm here if you have any questions about it.

What sort of problems are going to crop up that the online writeups don't go into?

TrojanMan
07-07-2005, 07:03 PM
I hope you're ready for alot of mess. I'm here if you have any questions about it.

What sort of problems are going to crop up that the online writeups don't go into?

Eh, I can't really give you any complete examples.. its just that you're going to have to think on your feet here and there. The write-ups sum it all up nicely, but here and there you're going to have to afro-engineer. I'm not trying to scare you, just be warned that it isn't a 3 day project. I reccomend the H802CP piston.. use it along with about .020 shaved off of the head and a mopar performance head gasket.. you're looking at a healthy 9.8:1 CR. However, if you're looking at juice, you probably want to get a stronger piston like Keith Black.

Keep in mind that you can use your 4.0 rods if you get a custom pin height piston, it provides a potentially longer lasting engine because of the smaller angle between the rod and the cylinder walls. I also reccomend Total Seal piston rings, they have a gapless ring and a moly ring that provide for a better seal at all temps. If I can think of anything else for advice i'll let you know.

By the way, I used to love stargate sg-1 (from your sig)

2drezq
08-21-2005, 03:50 PM
Still waiting on the machine shop to catch up. I NEED a new cylinder head, anybody got a good one cheeeep?


Planning on using the Sealed Power 677CP (coated skirt), but we're milling a larger recess & taking a bit off the top in an attempt to drop the CR to 9.0 or less. I don't like the idea of 9.25.

Found a head in A-1 cond. for less than $200.

2drezq
10-15-2005, 10:29 AM
OK, so the the crank only had to be ground 0.010 & the block bored 0.030, It's going to be a 4.6L. We're using Sealed Power 677P pistons. I don't like high compression much so here's what we're doing:
The 17.5cc dish in the piston is 3.362" diameter (radiused at the bottom) and 0.116-0.117" deep. Since the dish is "D" shaped, if you mill it circular and increase the depth to 0.160, then the volume will be 22.6cc (23.28 minus 0.725cc for the radius). This lowers the compression back down to 9.0:1 Since the piston is 0.328" thick at the thinnest point, and we're removing 0.044", the thinnest point (dead center) will still be 0.284"

I've ordered the Flowcooler waterpump, black graphite header wrap from JEG's, the new cat from Kolak (It's already got a kolak system on it), and a thermocouple for the pyrometer. Rather than cut the crank snout down, we just made a 1cm spacer for the front. The Taurus fan is sitting in the garage. I'm building the MAP sensor adjuster next week. This has taken far to long to get around to, I'll admit. If I had just rebuilt the 4.0 as stock it would have been done weeks ago, but I WANTED a stroker, SO THERE!

Kraqa
10-15-2005, 01:18 PM
for the money you woudl spend on a 4.0 stroker you could buy a runnign 350 with a tranny a t-case. and you can buy motor mounts for this swap. plus you woudl loose all the EFI computer. and propanes cheep.

ogdak
10-15-2005, 01:37 PM
If only everything was that simple;)

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
10-15-2005, 01:37 PM
for the money you woudl spend on a 4.0 stroker you could buy a runnign 350 with a tranny a t-case. and you can buy motor mounts for this swap. plus you woudl loose all the EFI computer. and propanes cheep.

x2! there are definatley much more cost effective methods of a motor swap if you're not scared of a little ingenuity and fabwork.

TrojanMan
10-15-2005, 04:06 PM
I have a head for sale if you still need one, check the for sale forum. If you went with the crank from an 89 YJ like I did, the crank would have fit perfectly - no spacer or grinding needed. I'm using the 677CP piston too, it's doing alright, but I wish I'd been able to use the H802CP like I wanted to :( .3 higher CR. Check out my thread though!

2drezq
10-17-2005, 03:34 PM
I found a good head locally, thanks. Swapping a completely different power train can't be that simple. I don't have my own welder ( & won't until the kids are out of school); why scrap a tranny & t-case that have less than 6K on them? I LIKE multi-port FI! I don't believe that the 350 V-8 will last any longer, or get better mileage than my 4.6. Where do you propose the propane tank should go? I really doubt the swap you suggest could be done for what I'll have into this motor.
I'd NEVER put a 350 in anything other than a demolition derby car. If I wanted to put that much money and time into something that could never be licensed anywhere that smog-checks, I'd drop a Mercedes 6 turbo-diesel in. I make 1000's of gallons of biodiesel every year, so that makes more sense anyway. Not being unfriendly. or anything, just doesn't sound like I'd like it.

TrojanMan
10-17-2005, 05:41 PM
Yeah doing the stroker is easier in that you have the same block, same transmission, same mounts, same harness, etc. Building the engine isn't all that hard. Any fool with a wrench and some patience can do it.

2drezq
10-19-2005, 03:25 PM
Decided to go 0.170 dish, Comp. works out to 8.87:1 Putting it together tonight.

2drezq
11-21-2005, 01:21 PM
Done and running. goes like stink. That header wrap REALLY STINKS for the first 15 minutes! But I can tell that the engine compartment stays cooler just by sticking my hand in there. I din't put the Taurus fan on yet. A friend of mine has the 5.2, and mine will now pull away from him off the line, no problem. Real people (ones with actual spare time) would be able to do this job in a few weeks, but I followed the old rule: You can have: A.Done Right, B.Done Quick, C.Done Cheap. Pick any two...

I'm Happy.

TrojanMan
11-21-2005, 02:00 PM
you said you pull away from him... are you obeying the proper break-in procedure?

*edit* congrats though, welcome to the club!!!

Cue-Ball
11-21-2005, 02:23 PM
Congrats.

2drezq
11-26-2005, 11:12 AM
you said you pull away from him... are you obeying the proper break-in procedure?

*edit* congrats though, welcome to the club!!!

I did for a little while...say 150 miles.

TrojanMan
11-26-2005, 04:11 PM
I did for a little while...say 150 miles.

Lol, you're supposed to do it over 1,200 miles.:driving:

*edit* how many times have you changed your oil?

2drezq
11-26-2005, 11:07 PM
coming up on the first oil change shortly

Cue-Ball
11-27-2005, 12:10 AM
coming up on the first oil change shortly

Means it's time to place your Amsoil order :D

TrojanMan
11-27-2005, 12:30 AM
coming up on the first oil change shortly

Do me a favor and change your oil like.. now. I changed my oil 3 times by then.

Cue-Ball
11-27-2005, 12:33 AM
And now is a great time with my end of the year sale

nate
11-27-2005, 03:55 AM
Yeah with a new engine I run it for 15-20mins to break in the cam and change the oil. Run it for 500 miles and change the oil, then 1000 miles, and after that every 3000 miles. Oil is cheap, engines aren't :D

TrojanMan
11-27-2005, 05:08 AM
I ran for 3 minutes at 1800 rpms, 3 minutes at 2K, 3 minutes at 2,200, 5 minutes at 2500, 3 minutes at 2,200, 3 minutes at 2,000, and finally 3 minutes at 1800 rpms... then changed the oil. I then changed the oil at 50 miles, 100 miles, 500 miles, 1,000 miles, and at 2K i'm switching to AMSOIL. Like nate said.. oil is cheap, why risk it? The smallest particle can ruin a bearing :smt101

DJJordache
11-30-2005, 12:00 PM
what year was your 4.0L?
You should also install the 99+ intake manifold but before installation you should modify it a little by grinding the bosses around the injector ports and smooth out the runners
Are you going to do a big valve head too? don't for get to port and polish the head

CurtP
11-30-2005, 07:54 PM
for the money you woudl spend on a 4.0 stroker you could buy a runnign 350 with a tranny a t-case. and you can buy motor mounts for this swap. plus you woudl loose all the EFI computer. and propanes cheep.

Do you have any links for this swap? After spending half an hour on Google, I came up empty. I'm looking to drop in an LT1 in my 96 and anything that I can find to make it easier would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, and congrats on the new motor 2drezq :D

2drezq
11-11-2006, 04:40 PM
Just a quick update:

Stroker now at 20K and still feelin' the love. Wife STILL won't let me put the juice bottle in...