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Ken L
07-05-2005, 10:24 PM
I am going to put onboard air in my Grand Cherokee. I've got the 4.0l six, so I figured it can't be too tough. But in order to use a York, room has to be created.

I've already ditched the stock air box and ghetto fabbed up a cone filter by using one originally designed for some rice rocket. I think it's much happier under the hood of my Jeep anyway. So that creates some room on the driver's side. However, I wanted to mount the York on the passenger's side, so I can get a combination pully for the alternator and drive it from there. So that means that the battery has to move. If you look at the picture you'll see that there isn't any way that it'll fit.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/frontview.jpg

Since the air box was gone, that's where the overflow bottle can go. Just takes some creative hose routing and a few bolts. The first picture is where it was, the second is where it's going. It'll make enough room for the battery back there.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/oldoverflowlocation1.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/newoverflowlocation.jpg

Ken L
07-05-2005, 10:27 PM
Here's the relocated overflow and the space it created. Yes, I know the shield on the air filter is ghey, I put it on there to keep mud out. Haven't been getting any mud on it anyway, so it just may go away.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/relocatedoverflow1.jpg

I moved the servo for the cruise control to the other side of the fuse box. Lengthened the wires and it still works. Can't see it in the picture, but I had to move the canister for the A/C over a bit also. Oh, and there is a vacuum tank under the battery box, I just bolted that to the inside of the fender.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/oldoverflowlocation.jpg

Ken L
07-05-2005, 10:37 PM
Next up was fabbing the battery tray. Bought some 1x1x1/8" angle, some 3/4" square tube and some 1" flat stock. Only had to re-do a couple of the braces, so measuring twice and cutting (or welding) once doesn't always work. Especially when you change your mind on where you want stuff to go.

Anyway, here is the work of art.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/Batttray1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/Batttray2.jpg

And installed.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/Batttrayin3.jpg

The positive battery cable fit with just a little re-routing, the negative one needed to be lengthened to fit. Here is how it looks with the battery installed.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/Battinstalled1.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/Battinstalled3.jpg

Ken L
07-05-2005, 10:42 PM
Well, the reason for doing all this is to install a York air conditioning compressor to use for on-board air. Here is the York just sitting in there, to show the amount of space created.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/yorkposition2.jpg

Got the metal and cut it to start making the bracket to mount up the York. Here is the initial rough cut to get it close.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/bracketsinitial.jpg

So then I tried to fit them under the Sanden compressor. Discovered something...the outside holes (away from the engine) are on 5" centers and I assumed that it was the same on the inside. Nope, those are on 4 1/2" centers. D'oh!
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/Oops.jpg

After fitment and more liberal application of the cut off wheel, here are the final versions. Oh, and before and after pictures of the cut off wheel, too.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/bracketsfinal.jpg

Ken L
07-05-2005, 10:45 PM
Next I put the brackets in, so I could make sure everything is square and the way it's supposed to be. Like line up, able to get to spark plugs, that kind of thing.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/bracketunderac.jpg

Now, I have to get the combination pulley for the alternator so I can place the York where it needs to go in relation to the alternator. Probably the most critical measurement, because that will determine whether the belt runs straight. And I want it to run straight.

More to follow, gotta buy stuff.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
07-05-2005, 11:33 PM
nice writeup. BTW somewhat of a n00b question, what is that vaccuum for underneath the stock battery tray?

AprilzWarrior
07-06-2005, 12:04 AM
Strange...


This looks almost EXACTLY like the one I built for someone...

That looks ok... let us know how it runs.




AW

Kraqa
07-06-2005, 12:40 AM
nice writeup. BTW somewhat of a n00b question, what is that vaccuum for underneath the stock battery tray?


alot of sensors and components use the engin vaccum to operate normally. when the engin is starting up IE cranking over it does nto creat enough vacuum. the vaccuum resevoir under the battery stores the vaccuum by the use of a diafram. it also help equalize the vaccuum at time when it will drop too low.

Ken L
07-06-2005, 08:11 AM
Strange...


This looks almost EXACTLY like the one I built for someone...

That looks ok... let us know how it runs.




AW

I didn't think I was breaking any new ground with this, just figured I'd post it up to give people ideas on what's possible. It's going to be a few weeks before I get any farther; no time this week, then off to Lost Wages next week.

JeepinHank
07-06-2005, 09:06 AM
Looking good!

How are you planning on mounting up the compressor? Might just be the angle of the pic, but it doesn't look like you'll have room to get the york on that bracket. Are you going to be building the part that the york mounts to off of that?

I'm interested in seeing the finished product - I alway wanted to get an OBA setup.

Oh - and I've never seen AW's writeup. :yawinkle:

Ken L
07-06-2005, 10:24 AM
I'm going to weld a plate at 90* to the one that's under the Sanden. There is plenty of room; before I cut that plate I held the York in there and measured about a hundred times. Well, OK, not a hundred. But quite a few. Even started the engine and revved it a couple times to make sure that the York was far enough away from the fender and the other junk so it wouldn't torque into anything. That picture a couple of posts up is the York sitting right down in there, it's way lower than where it'll end up.

ATL ZJ
07-06-2005, 06:05 PM
Damn... looking really familiar.. I'll try to get the pics of my new york setup too. That is if you don't mind a gratuitous hijack. :mrgreen: It's on a 4.0L as well, but I did a few things a little differently.

Isn't the York just awesome? :rock:

Troy
07-06-2005, 09:02 PM
Looks like it's coming along well. Here's how I did mine a long time ago - it's been removed since she's become a trailer queen.

http://smallnet.homeip.net/jeepzj/york.html

norcaljr
07-06-2005, 10:17 PM
here are some pics of AW's york install in my ZJ.

started with Kilbys bracket for a XJ and cut it up to make it fit the ZJ.

http://fototime.com/98FBCDBAE24B041/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/31892E7E3F39774/standard.jpg

http://fototime.com/B4F47854478292E/standard.jpg


it took alot of work.. and was a pain in the ass getting the bracket right.

If I had to do over again, I would push the york atleast another 3''-4'' from the AC compressor to give me enough room to remove the mounting bolts easier. Its mounted both above and below the AC compressor. It becomes a pain in the ass when your trying to replace the serp belt. Also besure to build some adjustment for the yorks height in the bracket. This way you can tension the V-belt easier.

here is my lame attempt with photochop to show you what I mean.

http://fototime.com/E31796150041028/standard.jpg


if you have any other questions, PM me or AW

Ken L
07-20-2005, 06:31 PM
I read and searched a lot before jumping into this project. I feel pretty good that it'll turn out OK, but I'll only know when I get it running I guess.

I ordered a combination pulley for the alternator from Kilby Enterprises along with a pressure switch, so that I can run a standard v-belt from it to the York for the onboard air. Here is what that bad boy looks like.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/combinationpulley.jpg

I had to take off the alternator to take the old pulley off. I didn't disconnect the wires, just took the bolts out and turned the alternator so that I could get the impact on the pulley.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/alternator.jpg

old pulley and combo side by side
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/comparison.jpg

Ken L
07-20-2005, 06:36 PM
Of course, the combo pulley has to go on the alternator. A little help from Mr Impact Wrench, and it looks like this.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/alternatornewpulley.jpg

I tried to take a picture of how everything lines up and sticks out past the serpentine belt pulleys, but it turned out really blurry and otherwise crappy.

Ken L
07-20-2005, 06:39 PM
Now back to the bracket. Once that combo pulley was on there, I could determine where the York needs to sit in relation to it. So I lined everything up, put a square across it to make sure it was, and marked my metal. Here I've prepared it for tack welds.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/bracket1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/bracket2.jpg

Once it was tacked, I bolted the York on to it to make sure that my measurements were right, and slid it under the A/C compressor. It looks like it almost belongs there, doesn't it?
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/trialfit.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/trialfit2.jpg

Ken L
07-20-2005, 06:42 PM
Now to burn them in really good. And since I figure that the York has a little bit of weight to it, and that it's hanging way out over the side, I put a couple of gussets in there, too.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/welded1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/welded2.jpg

Ken L
07-20-2005, 06:44 PM
Since the brackets that you buy are all nice and anodized, I figured I can't just let this thing rust and get all greasy looking. So I paint it. I was looking for some blaze orange paint that I thought that I had around here, but I couldn't find it. Oh, well, I suppose green from the van that I no longer own will be sufficient.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/painted1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/painted2.jpg

Ken L
07-20-2005, 06:45 PM
Time to fit it all up in there. I learned that it's easier to put the York on the bracket and then install the whole thing under the A/C compressor than it is to put the bracket in there and then try to get the York on it. Here's the finished installation with the York in place.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/install1.jpg

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/install2.jpg

Ken L
07-20-2005, 06:49 PM
Here's a shot of the rest of the crud that you need to make it a system. What we have in this picture is the pressure switch, that big gray thing on the left, and an air line filter, the black dealy right next to the underhood fuse box. You can also see the pressure gauge that I have zip tied to the cruise control dealy.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/pressswfilter.jpg

This is the manifold. What it has in it are a check valve, a safety relief valve and a T fitting. The T fitting has another T on it, which runs one air line to the gauge and one air line to the pressure switch. The gauge is sort of optional, but I kinda like to know what's going on, and I may have to change the pressure switch settings. I may also run a gauge into the dash, but I haven't decided if it's all that necessary yet. I may just do a light that will tell me when the compressor is running, or when the pressure switch has reached its' high limit.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/manifold.jpg

Ken L
07-20-2005, 06:54 PM
And the underhood shot. I still have to plumb up the air line from the compressor to the filter, attach another line and an intake air filter, size a belt and install that, and wire the thing up. That stuff is all pretty invisible anyway, once the hardware is in there. That may end up being a project for this weekend, anyway.

The air line runs up under the cowl where the wipers are, over to the driver's side of the Jeep, then down under the Jeep, following the brake lines to the back. Then it goes into a grommet in the rear of the hatch, and it ends in a quick connector that I have in the access panel behind the spare tire. I have a 3 gallon or so tank that I will strap into the back of the Jeep, and I'll be running a coily hose from that access panel to the tank. Once the spare tire goes away (the next project is a rear bumper and spare tire carrier) the tank will stay where the spare was.
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b370/Ken_L/enginecompartment4.jpg

I figure to have it running this weekend or early next week; I have a 'wheeling trip planned for Sunday so Saturday is the day to get it done if it gets done this weekend. Just little detail stuff anyway.

ATL ZJ
07-20-2005, 07:01 PM
Looking good man. I got mine done also. Very rewarding once you get an impact on the end of it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/atlzj/Jeep/york_0131.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/atlzj/Jeep/york_0133.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/atlzj/Jeep/york_0128.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/atlzj/Jeep/york_0132.jpg

Same result, the difference is only in the details. :mrgreen:

norcaljr
07-20-2005, 08:08 PM
Not bad, but whats the deal with the clear tubing ? what PSI is it rated for ? is it temp rated too ?


You wount need a light or anything to tell you when the york is running, you'll be able to hear it no problem.

Ken L
07-20-2005, 11:04 PM
The clear tubing is polyurethane, it's rated to 250psi and temp rated to 158F. It's some stuff that I had laying around. The temp rating is the whole reason why I routed it to the driver's side of the Jeep, to be away from the exhaust. Plus there's a really easy access to the hatch area on the driver's side. If it fails, it's not like I can't replace it.

The hot part of the system is the span between the compressor and the filter, and I'm going to be using hose there.

I know I'll hear the York running, it's just good to know when the high limit that I have the pressure switch set for is achieved, thus knowing when the tank is "full". Kinda like an oil pressure idiot light; you know when the engine is running, but it's good to know that you have sufficient oil pressure.

norcaljr
07-21-2005, 01:22 AM
The clear tubing is polyurethane, it's rated to 250psi and temp rated to 158F. It's some stuff that I had laying around. The temp rating is the whole reason why I routed it to the driver's side of the Jeep, to be away from the exhaust. Plus there's a really easy access to the hatch area on the driver's side. If it fails, it's not like I can't replace it.

The hot part of the system is the span between the compressor and the filter, and I'm going to be using hose there.

I know I'll hear the York running, it's just good to know when the high limit that I have the pressure switch set for is achieved, thus knowing when the tank is "full". Kinda like an oil pressure idiot light; you know when the engine is running, but it's good to know that you have sufficient oil pressure.



I went with a autometer air pressure guage so I can keep track of the pressure.

mckeonm
10-17-2005, 01:17 AM
Has anyone thought of mounting the York next to or below the Power steering pump? It seems with the factory air filter box removed there is a ton of room on that side of the engine compartment. You wouldn't have to move the battery or coolant fill box. It seams posilbe to make a bracket that comes off of either the power steering bracket or the block.

Any thoughts?

Jim311
10-17-2005, 07:09 AM
I'm thinking of mounting my York on my 5.2 on that side, because it's the only place that isn't jam packed. Still haven't exactly figured out how I'm going to do it.. it will be interesting to say the least.

KevinM
10-20-2005, 12:59 PM
That is a great write up, nice install

97trxuszj
10-20-2005, 03:47 PM
don't the yorks need an inline oiler? or are they oil free? and alos how long does it take for the york to fill the 3 gallon tank to 150 psi? how long can you run an air tool on that before your york kicks on?

ATL ZJ
10-20-2005, 04:51 PM
don't the yorks need an inline oiler? or are they oil free? and alos how long does it take for the york to fill the 3 gallon tank to 150 psi? how long can you run an air tool on that before your york kicks on?
I run a York 209 right now, that will soon be swapped out for a 210, which is the model with the longest stroke that puts out the highest volume of air. Models available are 206, 209, and 210. You guessed it- the higher the model number, the greater the stroke and therefore, volume.

Yorks are by no means oil free. I did the blowby modification, which there are several good writeups on if you simply search on google for a moment. Essentially what it amounts to is pulling off the clutch and clutch plate I believe to access the actual shaft and area around the bearing. There is small hole there on one side. The modification involves tapping out this hole and inserting a small set screw covered in locktite. This mod should make the York put out only a tiny amount of oil (which in most cases is undetectable). Mine puts out a good deal of oil, but I believe it is due to a blown ring. More to come on that.

I am not running a tank currently. I can use my impact wrench for a period of about 5 seconds before I start to lose power. I am still able to remove a wheel at normal speed, however, since the time it takes me to move between lugs allows the compressor to catch up. In the future, I'll either add an accessory tank, tap a rear bumper to hold air, or tap a cage to function as a tank.

I run two manifolds. One is high pressure, the other low pressure. The high pressure side is regulated by a pressure switch that tells the compressor when to begin its cycle and when to shut off. Pretty simple. That pressure switch is fixed. It cuts off at 185 PSI. I run air tools off front and rear quick disconnects at this pressure. The second manifold is a low pressure manifold set between 90 and 100 psi. This is for my ARB. It's tuned with a simple adjustable regulator. I went the pricy way on this manifold and got it from Slee Offroad, which is actually a LandCruiser Offroad Company, but they deal a lot with ARBs, and offer a manifold that actually has two 1/8" BSPT (British standard pipe thread) ports in it for either one or two ARB solenoids. It's pricy, but nice to not have to worry about adapters to convert from NPT to BSPT. They are close enough, however, that you can actually get by threading the solenoid into an NPT port without too much leakage in some cases. Each manifold has a pop-off valve in it, along with all the other needed connections.

Something I would highly recommend is a check valve. I got one that "cracks" at an ungodly low .3psi and will work with up to 1000psi on the high end. This prevents the pressure that the York creates from leaking back though the compressor itself. Now, I can store pressure in the manifolds almost indefinitely with little or no leakage.

Switches are mounted on the tranny shifter bezel, which seems like it has become pretty common in ZJs. I have 2 currently: one for the ARB, and a switch that provides power to the pressure switch that actually allows the compressor to run. The compressor switch I got from Waytek, and is the same shape, size, and style as the ARB switch, and was only about $5 for two.

Lights seem too dualistic in an OBA setup for my purposes. I have two in-cab guages that tell me what pressure each manifold is at. It's nice to make sure the ARB is always getting the right pressure, and to be able to watch the system fill up. These are run directly off the manifolds with some 1/4" tubing that terminates in instant-tube fittings. Very nice. The majority of my parts I ordered from McMaster Carr, which I very highly recommend. The pressure switch I got from Airbagit.com, which is actually a lowrider truck company, but have a wide selection of onboard air parts, and had a pressure switch perfect for my application.

I have a lot of money in my onboard air setup, but I think you'd be hard pressed to build (or even buy) a better system.

Cam

Jim311
10-20-2005, 06:49 PM
I wonder if they sell gauge pods for the pillar? I'm thinking it would be nice to have one to monitor air pressure in addition to a few other gauges like tranny temp, oil temp, etc.

ATL ZJ
10-21-2005, 10:31 AM
I wonder if they sell gauge pods for the pillar? I'm thinking it would be nice to have one to monitor air pressure in addition to a few other gauges like tranny temp, oil temp, etc.

They do. Matt has one, and Elliott has one too. They can give you more info on them that I can.

Ken L
10-21-2005, 10:45 AM
don't the yorks need an inline oiler? or are they oil free? and alos how long does it take for the york to fill the 3 gallon tank to 150 psi? how long can you run an air tool on that before your york kicks on?
Yorks have an oil sump oiling system that is splash lubricated, like a lawnmower engine. That's why I have a filter in line, to remove oil and water--you get a lot of water when you use a comperessor in the summer when it's humid. Bad rings will cause oil blow by, just like in a combustion engine.

I have the pressure switch set to turn off at 160 and on at 145. It's a 15 psi preset pressure differential, and the upper limit is set by the pressure relief valve that I have -and recommend that people put in- the system. The pressure relief valve saves things from blowing up, most likely an air line rupturing or blowing off, in the event that the pressure switch goes to hell. Cheap insurance.

I haven't timed it to fill the tank, but I think it doesn't takes much more than a minute or so. I will time it this weekend just to see. Once full, you can change tires with the impact easliy because of the high "on" pressure setting. It eats up 15 psi in a 3 gallon tank pretty quick, so the York will start running again, but it stays caught up fairly well. I have my pressure on my home compressor regulated to 90psi, so changing tires at 145 to 160psi is hella fast compared to that.

I also have a small regulator equiped with quick connect couplings that I can put on the tank if I need to regulate the pressure, like when running an air ratchet when you don't want to break off bolts.

The system should be york--filter--check valve--pressure relief valve--pressure switch--tank. Really everything after the check valve is seeing the same pressure, so the order doesn't matter after the check valve. By having the check valve in there, as stated in the post by ATL ZJ, you take the load off of the compressor and allow the check valve to do what it's designed for, keep the pressure sealed in the system. Otherwise the sealing mechanism is the flap valves in the York, and they're not really designed to work like that in an open system that you have when using it as an air compressor. It will leak down faster when using the York valves as the check instead of a dedicated check valve. Plus this way there can still be pressure in the system and you can take the filter off to drain it if you need to.

I have an air gauge under the hood mainly because I haven't decided on a good place to put it in the cabin. If I could get a gauge pod to go on the A pillar that might be the place for it. For the switch I took out the ash tray and made a panel to replace it and mounted the switch there. Still has a factory look to it.