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View Full Version : Gay 1-ton chevy steering BS...i fu$ked something up here...



Krash80
05-12-2005, 09:12 PM
ordered my steering stuff from parts mike, told him i needed the parts for an inverted T setup w/ 1 ton chevy TRE's.

The parts i got are as follows, but i don't remember what's what cause i mixed up the boxes after taking the TRE's out.

ES2234R
ES2234R
ES2027L
Unlabeled box.

First problem that i have is that the special TRE that goes on the passenger side that has the hole in it for the drag link to connect to has the hole for the draglink tapered backwards. In other words, the TRE at the end of the drag link would have to be behind the tie-rod with the castle-nut tightened down from the front. This definitely won't work because not only will the joint hit my trackbar mount, but i'm pretty sure the drag link and tie rod would hit each other if mounted up in this fashion.

The other problem i have is that fucked up the reaming of the driver's side steering knuckle. I got a shitty snap on R121 reamer that's not true all the way around (ie. it wobbles when mounted steady in a drill press), and it wallowed out the hole in my knuckle, so to try to correct the wallowing i went in a little deeper w/ the reamer to true up the hole and ended up going too deep, so with the TRE tightened down all the way the body of the TRE is up against the bottom of the knuckle and doesn't allow for any movement of the TRE...so that's fucked.

What i'm thinking now is doing a tie rod flip, so i'd drill out the knuckles and make some tapered spacers so the tie rod would sit on top of the knuckles (i don't see any other option since the driver's side knuckle is reamed out too much and fucked for using a TRE on the underside), and then flipping the tie rod would also make the TRE on the passenger side not backwards anymore so the drag link would be in the correct spot on the front of the tie-rod.

I just left parts mike a message and am waiting to hear back from him.

What do ya'll think, other than i should yank the ZJ out of the barn with the bobcat, drag it down into the creek, and then bury the fucker and never look back...i'm so sick of this bullshit...any better ideas?

-Ron-

AprilzWarrior
05-12-2005, 09:20 PM
ES2233L Pass side tie rod end. Ream hole for drag link
ES2234R Drivers side tie rod end.
ES2027L High miss alignment draglink end. Use on pitman arm.
ES2026R Drag link end attaches to ES2233L



does that help ?


AW

AprilzWarrior
05-12-2005, 09:21 PM
PS,
Ive buried a few trucks in my day.



:snakeman: :finga:

Krash80
05-12-2005, 09:32 PM
OK, so i'm guessing i have a wrong part of somesort (what else is new?) since i have 2 boxes here labelled ES2234R.

I figured the 2nd ES2234R was the one that connected the drag link to the
tie-rod since the high-misalignment one and the pax side TRE are obviously different pieces.

So...now i have no clue what i have. Is the ES2233L supposed to be for an under-the-knuckle tie rod and allow the drag link to mount in front?

thanks,
-Ron-

MaineZJ
05-12-2005, 10:21 PM
aren't the parts listed on your bill?

the 2233L should work underneath, reamed out. maybe you have a 2233R or something

Kraqa
05-12-2005, 10:28 PM
the ES2233L is suposed to come from the factory reamed backwards. you have to ream it on the other side. :axe:

Nordic1
05-12-2005, 11:52 PM
First problem that i have is that the special TRE that goes on the passenger side that has the hole in it for the drag link to connect to has the hole for the draglink tapered backwards. In other words, the TRE at the end of the drag link would have to be behind the tie-rod with the castle-nut tightened down from the front. This definitely won't work because not only will the joint hit my trackbar mount, but i'm pretty sure the drag link and tie rod would hit each other if mounted up in this fashion.



the ES2233L is suposed to come from the factory reamed backwards. you have to ream it on the other side. :axe:

beat me to it... 1 ton parts are meant for under the knuckle... you'll have to ream the hole in the pass side TRE to go OTK. Be careful when you do this... ream it to much and the hole kinda becomes a weakness (ie bending of the TRE which alot of us have done)

nate
05-13-2005, 12:09 AM
I just did all this stuff last week, so it's fresh in my mind. Granted my axle isn't together yet, so it's still "in theory" at this point :mrgreen:

You have the right parts. You should need 2 2234Rs, 1 2027L, and 1 2233.

2233 goes on the pass knuckle, 2234 connects to that. 2027 is on the pitman arm and the other 2234 is on the driver's knuckle.

I was told by a few people that Snap On reamer (121) is the wrong taper. I works, but it's not exaclty right. What you need is a taper of 1.5" per foot. I got one from Complete Off Road, though machine shop catalogs have them too (Goodson, MSC, etc).

I did my pitman arm first and I almost went too deep. You want just enough that you can get the cotton pin in bascially. You want to make sure that when the TRE is in place, that the threads are going into the taper hole a bit... if you put it in and the threads stop and there's the shank... too deep. When your crank the nut down, it will bottom out on the TRE and not on the knuckle. Hard to explain, but I think you can understand?

It seems like there is alot of room up top and it's wrong, but remember the seal goes there too.

Nate


OK, so i'm guessing i have a wrong part of somesort (what else is new?) since i have 2 boxes here labelled ES2234R.

I figured the 2nd ES2234R was the one that connected the drag link to the
tie-rod since the high-misalignment one and the pax side TRE are obviously different pieces.

So...now i have no clue what i have. Is the ES2233L supposed to be for an under-the-knuckle tie rod and allow the drag link to mount in front?

thanks,
-Ron-

Krash80
05-15-2005, 01:07 PM
thanks for the help guys. I talked with parts mike and i think we've got it figured out. He originally thought i was putting my tie rod over the knuckle so he sent me the part for the pax side with the reaming from the opposite side, which is why the one i have won't work under the knuckle.

So since i messed up the driver's side knuckle anyway, he's sending me the tapered inserts to put the tie rod on the top side of the knuckle, then the pax side TRE that i have will work since it will have the reaming on the front side after it's flipped to the top.

i'll let you guys know how it turns out after i get the inserts and install them.


also, the snap-on reamer is the correct taper, it's just a very low-quality reamer. it's .5"-1" and is 4" long, so if it changes 1/2" over 4", that would make it 1.5"/foot. The correct reamer for what we're doing would ideally be one with spiral flutes that can actually drill.

-Ron-

nate
05-15-2005, 01:56 PM
Ok. I was told by a few people that it was the wrong thing, so dunno. What I did with the one I got it put it in my drill press, setup the pitman arm, knuckles, and the pass TRE, and reamed them that way. I turned the drill down to 500rpm, really I needed it to be slower, but that's the lowest setting. Used alot of oil, light pressure and it worked great.

forexfour
05-18-2005, 03:18 PM
Sorry to hear you had more problems than me on this 1/2 ton setup.

The Ford setup I replaced all this stuff with is a better stronger setup. It is 1" and a solid tie rod. The Drag link connects at a better angle and it will be tough to bend.

Parts Mike is a pretty good guy to deal with.

Although I scrapped the whole setup and went back to stock since the Knuckles I have now became to sloppy to hold the TRE's tight and the steering became real sloppy.

I someday will go back to this newer setup but need new knuckles to ream out again so I can keep the stock around.

:weedman: