PDA

View Full Version : Hydrolocked motor... 5.9 time?



Jim311
04-17-2005, 04:00 PM
Well, I dealt the death blow to my 5.2 today. At 120k I submerged it and became a member of the submarine club. Water pouring in the door seals and water well over the hood. Shut off and when I pulled the plugs and try to restart I heard a CLANK CLANK CLANK BANG! There's a huge hole in the bottom of the oil pan. I haven't pulled the cover to see what's wrong, but seeing as how this is my daily driver, I need to get back on the road and FAST. But I'm going to do this the right way. If I can upgrade to a 5.9L with all the goodies I'd definitely like to, but if there's too much work involved and it won't bolt right up I'm more than content to put in another refreshed or possibly even salvaged 5.2L. Maybe with a nice cam, maybe some headers, and some goodies while I'm at it.


What are my options? Does anyone have any links to online salvage yards, or know where I can get a rebuilt/reconditioned 5.2L? If I go the route of the 5.9L, will my wiring harness and everything basically just bolt/plug right in, or is there more work involved? I've tried searching NAGCA but rebuilt/reconditioned 5.2 or salvage 5.2 doesn't bring back anything useful.. there are so many different links I couldn't sort through them all if I tried. What's the plan of attack, and how difficult *IS* a motor swap for somebody who's pretty mechanically inclined? How much time do I need to allot for this swap? I've gotta find some transportation for the next couple weeks or so I'd assume. Help a brutha out ;)

LouisianaZJ
04-17-2005, 04:20 PM
dont know much about motor swaps, but might want to do a flush off all your other fluids too

Jim311
04-17-2005, 04:35 PM
dont know much about motor swaps, but might want to do a flush off all your other fluids too


For sure. Water got in my stock Infinity amp and my speakers started goin fuckin' nuts with static :rolleyes:



Water in the floorboards and all over my clean clothes I'd intended on wearing the rest of the campout. Kinda sucked, but I'll make the best of this. I'm seeing remanufactured motors with 7/70000 mile guarantees for 1200-1600 bucks.

Cue-Ball
04-17-2005, 04:57 PM
Damn dude that sucks.

LouisianaZJ
04-17-2005, 04:58 PM
yeah here they have shops that do just remaned engines. around 2k for a motor with new components and an old block
usually come with at least a 12k warranty

RiPPiNiTuP7
04-17-2005, 05:04 PM
ya, theres a company selling remanufactured engines on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2481483598

Jim311
04-17-2005, 05:36 PM
ya, theres a company selling remanufactured engines on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2481483598



That same company sells "V6 4 liter Jeep motors" on Ebay. Are they reputable?

RiPPiNiTuP7
04-17-2005, 05:48 PM
ya, theres a company selling remanufactured engines on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2481483598



That same company sells "V6 4 liter Jeep motors" on Ebay. Are they reputable?

:smt104

okay can that idea.

there are however a few people selling used 5.2's on there if you want to go that route.

robselina
04-17-2005, 05:59 PM
first off, if you decide to salvage the ZJ just get a new 5.2L long block.

Now before you do that though, SERIOUSLY consider ditching the unibody turd if you intend to get into more hardcore wheeling. I'd view this as an oportunity to step up to a rig that might suit you better. There are many options of course, but keep in mind that if you get a TJ a lot could swap over (sway bar discos, front springs, control arms, axles and internals, tires and wheels, etc) You could pick up a 97-98 model, slap everything on it over the weekend and be back up and running trails w/o having to deal with the doors not closing afterwards :supz:

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
04-17-2005, 06:01 PM
i vote for an all new drivetrain. you said your VC was shot anyway. Why not a 5.9 360 stroked to a 408, coupled with an atlas TC and NV4550, pushing some full-width axles running 5.38 gears.

or either get a 5.2 from a junkyard like every other sap. :butthead:

Jim311
04-17-2005, 06:10 PM
i vote for an all new drivetrain. you said your VC was shot anyway. Why not a 5.9 360 stroked to a 408, coupled with an atlas TC and NV4550, pushing some full-width axles running 5.38 gears.

or either get a 5.2 from a junkyard like every other sap. :butthead:


I like this idea. Unfortunately I'm not dropping 20 grand into a Jeep that's worth less than 6! As for replacing this rig and finding something else to wheel.. I kinda like this one. It's not worth shit to anybody except me at this point anyway, so I might as well run it into the ground.

OverkillZJ
04-17-2005, 06:10 PM
Fuck the TJ's, fix the unibody POS :partyman: :weedman:

LouisianaZJ
04-17-2005, 06:21 PM
TJ's = ghey^4

Jim311
04-17-2005, 06:28 PM
:partyman:


I fully intend on fixing it. The only question is what approach to take.


5.2 > 5.9?


5.2 salvage? 5.2 remanufactured?

RiPPiNiTuP7
04-17-2005, 06:55 PM
well you take a big risk going with a used one. who knows how well it was taken care of. its not like a starter where if its bad you can just go rip it back off and its no big deal. i think the only way i would go that route is if you knew the history, like if it was a friends thats being parted or something. i just bought a transmission for my zj from a wrecker yard (not junkers, but wrecked vehicles), everything looked good about it, but it ended up being a bad transmission, boy was i pissed off. going to do it right this time and just have it rebuilt. my advice to you...rebuild your original, or get a new rebuilt one.

Jim311
04-17-2005, 08:21 PM
What about putting in a 5.9L? Do I need a new tranny, or will it just bolt right up?

LouisianaZJ
04-17-2005, 08:46 PM
im pretty sure the trans should bolt up as well as the motor mounts. its basically the same as a 5.2L that has bee stroked or bored i forget which

...wheter or not you think the trans ans tc could handle the extra ponies is up to you

Jim311
04-17-2005, 09:11 PM
im pretty sure the trans should bolt up as well as the motor mounts. its basically the same as a 5.2L that has bee stroked or bored i forget which

...wheter or not you think the trans ans tc could handle the extra ponies is up to you



The 5.2L is 245 HP and 275 ft/lbs of torque, no?


The 5.9L is how much more? Once I regear, shouldn't it be easier on the tranny?

OverkillZJ
04-17-2005, 09:18 PM
if going 5.9, wouldn't the ECU be an issue? What about the wiring harness?

for the minor differences between the 5.2 and 5.9 - I doubt it's worth it at all.

Jim311
04-17-2005, 09:37 PM
if going 5.9, wouldn't the ECU be an issue? What about the wiring harness?

for the minor differences between the 5.2 and 5.9 - I doubt it's worth it at all.


Couldn't I achieve similar numbers by building my 5.2 accordingly? Cam, intake, etc? Maybe it's not even worth it. Once I regear I'll have plenty of power even with the 5.2.

OverkillZJ
04-17-2005, 09:52 PM
All I know is that I can do burnouts with my 5.2 turning 35's....

Nordic1
04-17-2005, 09:52 PM
Can't you grab the 360 stroker (or is it 402) mopar crate motor and throw stock everything back on?

Jim311
04-17-2005, 09:56 PM
Can't you grab the 360 stroker (or is it 402) mopar crate motor and throw stock everything back on?


I looked at those crate motors... way out of my price range. They were like 3500+

Kraqa
04-17-2005, 09:57 PM
You obviously can drive it. Pull the motor see how bad the damage is. you can get a rebuild kit( including over sized pistons, and sometime not much more to get a performance cam) for 500 US take 3 days to rebuild the motor. Youd learn something. You would nave a brand new 5.2. and its cheap.


On the other hand swapping a 5.9 is dope. but i'm a cheep bastard. Thats why i'm rebuildign my 4.0, its been hydro'd 3 times. the last time bent a rod. btu it still runs fine just noisy. :supz:

Jim311
04-17-2005, 10:01 PM
You obviously can drive it. Pull the motor see how bad the damage is. you can get a rebuild kit( including over sized pistons, and sometime not much more to get a performance cam) for 500 US take 3 days to rebuild the motor. Youd learn something. You would nave a brand new 5.2. and its cheap.


On the other hand swapping a 5.9 is dope. but i'm a cheep bastard. Thats why i'm rebuildign my 4.0, its been hydro'd 3 times. the last time bent a rod. btu it still runs fine just noisy. :supz:

Damn, why don't you get a snorkel? That's my next modification, I know that for sure.

Kraqa
04-17-2005, 10:03 PM
i'm runnign my air intake into the cab.

BLACKZJ
04-17-2005, 10:03 PM
If it blew a hole in the pan chances are it threw a rod. I'd look inside her before you get a rebuild kit. I've seen rods push cylinder walls out before, makin the block useless. Good Luck

OverkillZJ
04-17-2005, 10:31 PM
i'm runnign my air intake into the cab.

You don't have a cab. :weedman:

Kraqa
04-17-2005, 11:44 PM
lol. youl see.

Jim311
04-18-2005, 12:03 AM
I'm gonna have to take a cab :partyman:

nathaniel
04-18-2005, 12:13 AM
There was a guy on nagca a long time ago that used the 5.9 short or long block that jegs sells that is rated at like 380hp that pretty much was a direct swap. he had to go with mopar PCm for the 5.9 and i think larger injectors but that was it. I talked with him about it pretty extensively but that was a couple of years ago. might want to email or pm dino over on JU for some more definitive answers on the swap.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
04-18-2005, 01:41 AM
You obviously can drive it. Pull the motor see how bad the damage is. you can get a rebuild kit( including over sized pistons, and sometime not much more to get a performance cam) for 500 US take 3 days to rebuild the motor. Youd learn something. You would nave a brand new 5.2. and its cheap.


On the other hand swapping a 5.9 is dope. but i'm a cheep bastard. Thats why i'm rebuildign my 4.0, its been hydro'd 3 times. the last time bent a rod. btu it still runs fine just noisy. :supz:

Damn, why don't you get a snorkel? That's my next modification, I know that for sure.

OMG SNORKELS R SO COOL! :butthead:

Jim311
04-18-2005, 06:22 AM
You obviously can drive it. Pull the motor see how bad the damage is. you can get a rebuild kit( including over sized pistons, and sometime not much more to get a performance cam) for 500 US take 3 days to rebuild the motor. Youd learn something. You would nave a brand new 5.2. and its cheap.


On the other hand swapping a 5.9 is dope. but i'm a cheep bastard. Thats why i'm rebuildign my 4.0, its been hydro'd 3 times. the last time bent a rod. btu it still runs fine just noisy. :supz:

Damn, why don't you get a snorkel? That's my next modification, I know that for sure.

OMG SNORKELS R SO COOL! :butthead:

Cooler than hydrolocking, I can tell you that! I'd have survived this nasty mishap if I'd had one. I learned my lesson.

gearhead313
04-18-2005, 09:49 AM
I was hoping to hear some better info in this thread b/c im looking to do the same thing.


my experience: went to a scrap yard, was like "hey, i am looking for a dakota/ram 5.9 motor with harness and computer". Well, they said that there was a major difference b/w the 5.2 and the 5.9 when applying to a ZJ. It was something with the timing, or how things hooked up... I wasn't real sure what they were talking about. They said it could not be done at all without major work. This was the 2nd yard that had told me this.

It pretty much crushed my dreams...yet at the same time compelled me to do it to conquer all.

Eitherway, my route more turned to getting a 5.9l block and heads and wrap all the stock ZJ stuff back around it and then just chip my stock ecu.

Thats where im at now. My goal is running by october, so i have a little bit of time.

Jim311
04-18-2005, 11:08 AM
I was hoping to hear some better info in this thread b/c im looking to do the same thing.


my experience: went to a scrap yard, was like "hey, i am looking for a dakota/ram 5.9 motor with harness and computer". Well, they said that there was a major difference b/w the 5.2 and the 5.9 when applying to a ZJ. It was something with the timing, or how things hooked up... I wasn't real sure what they were talking about. They said it could not be done at all without major work. This was the 2nd yard that had told me this.

It pretty much crushed my dreams...yet at the same time compelled me to do it to conquer all.

Eitherway, my route more turned to getting a 5.9l block and heads and wrap all the stock ZJ stuff back around it and then just chip my stock ecu.

Thats where im at now. My goal is running by october, so i have a little bit of time.

I've read a few posts on NAGCA saying that all you had to do was transfer your head and manifold over, and possibly get new injectors, as well as a new ECU. If that's the case, I think I'll just drop in another 5.2L. I'm really not interested in doing much more than I have to if at all possible. It's really difficult to find tech on the swap.

TrojanMan
04-18-2005, 11:32 AM
Your 318 can be stroked to a 390, by the time you bore, hone, replace cam, crank, rods, pistons, and everything else.. you'll have a brand new motor. You might want to consider doing that. Message me on aim and i'll help you get all the info you need, as well as the right guy to talk to about parts (prices) and tech. The guy I'd hook you up with is currently designing + building a twin tubro setup on a 408. He's a speedfreak, but those are the guys to talk to when you want to know about engines. By no means am I fast, but yet i'm a moderator on another speedfreak forum. Those guys know engines like nothing else.

Jim311
04-19-2005, 11:43 AM
Here's a pic of the oil pan


http://www.jeepcrew.com/gallery/albums/album25/oilpanlock.jpg


:smt011 :smt013 :pissed:

JeepinHank
04-19-2005, 03:31 PM
Damn, that sucks.

If your block is ruined, I'd say just get one from a junkyard. When you pick it up, put it on an engine stand and give it a good once over before you swap it in. Remove the oil pan, check it out (return it if it looks as bad as yours does right now :rolleyes: ), clean out the sludge, etc. Do the same with the throttle body and cooling system - flush it out, you'll probably have to swap over your water pump and all of your other accessories anyway.

Then swap it in and roll with it. A lot of people are wary about buying from JYs, but I've had good experiences with the ones in my area.

I blew up a 242 Tcase, I got one from a local JY, and swapped it in, been going strong ever since - 3 years and probably 40K miles later (being conservative). My buddy, the lucky bastard that he is, got an XJ with a blown motor for $500, we got a 4.0 I-6 from the same yard for another $500, went through it and replaced some seals & gaskets, and he's been running it as a DD for the past 2 + years.

Yeah, its a crap shoot, but if you're trying to do it on the cheap, go for a junk yard. If you can get a 5.2 with less than 70K on the clock, it can't be in too bad of shape. I mean unless they drove it without changing the oil the whole time.

Good luck, whatever you decide.

JH

Jim311
04-19-2005, 08:58 PM
Yeah, in the interest of time I think I'm going to end up finding another 5.2 to bolt in. Do you guys have any idea whether the motor will come with things like a starter, alternator, etc? Or will I just get the bare engine?

JeepinHank
04-19-2005, 09:48 PM
Yeah, in the interest of time I think I'm going to end up finding another 5.2 to bolt in. Do you guys have any idea whether the motor will come with things like a starter, alternator, etc? Or will I just get the bare engine?

More than likely it will be just the bare engine. IIRC we had to swap over the alternator, PS pump, AC compressor, & waterpump. Again its been a couple of years, so I'm probably missing some things there.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
04-20-2005, 12:51 AM
most junkyards and stuff don't let alternators, starters, etc stuff do with their engine because they get core charges on all that kinda stuff.

sneakyboy
04-20-2005, 07:54 PM
Here's a pic of the oil pan


http://www.jeepcrew.com/gallery/albums/album25/oilpanlock.jpg


:smt011 :smt013 :pissed:

You weren't kidding huh?? :smt107

Hope you get er rolling again soon!

Jim311
04-23-2005, 02:22 PM
http://www.jeepcrew.com/gallery/albums/album25/Resized2.jpg


The process begins :mrgreen:

Jim311
04-25-2005, 01:03 PM
http://www.jeepcrew.com/gallery/albums/album25/RodandPan2.jpg

http://www.jeepcrew.com/gallery/albums/album25/RodandPan3Resize.jpg

OverkillZJ
04-25-2005, 01:23 PM
Holy.... shit....

Jim311
04-25-2005, 02:15 PM
Somehow the rod actually twisted too :screwy:

Kraqa
04-25-2005, 03:19 PM
yowza!!

Jim311
05-01-2005, 04:41 PM
http://www.jeepcrew.com/gallery/albums/album25/EngineGone3RESIZED.jpg

http://www.jeepcrew.com/gallery/albums/album25/EngineGone1RESIZED.jpg


http://www.jeepcrew.com/gallery/albums/album25/EngineGone2RESIZED.jpg



Now to find a new engine...

Kraqa
05-01-2005, 05:46 PM
can you do me a favour and take pics of the CPS on the fly wheel engin side and tranny side. it will be nice to see what i have to work with when i do my tf999 swap.

TrojanMan
05-01-2005, 06:08 PM
How bad is the block though? Is it rebuildable?

Jim311
05-01-2005, 08:05 PM
can you do me a favour and take pics of the CPS on the fly wheel engin side and tranny side. it will be nice to see what i have to work with when i do my tf999 swap.


When it stops raining I will. If anybody needs pics of anything while the motor is out for reference or whatever let me know. Maybe we can squeeze some tech out of this thread :D

Jim311
05-01-2005, 08:05 PM
How bad is the block though? Is it rebuildable?


As far as I can tell it's rebuildable and the block and cylinders are all in good shape. I'm still thinking of going the salvaged route, however. I'm not engine rebuilder... although I guess I could try.

TrojanMan
05-01-2005, 09:42 PM
How bad is the block though? Is it rebuildable?


As far as I can tell it's rebuildable and the block and cylinders are all in good shape. I'm still thinking of going the salvaged route, however. I'm not engine rebuilder... although I guess I could try.

You should stroke it then. Stroking it is pretty much the same as rebuilding it, except you put in a bigger crank/rods. With a FSM its all pretty simple, just a matter of turning some bolts. You'll have more power and a brand new engine at the same time. If you do rebuild you should at the very least make sure you rebore and get a good crosshatch hone on it.

Jim311
05-01-2005, 11:09 PM
Stroking it would be way overkill. I don't need much more than 250/300 anyway.. it's really trail only from this point on. I don't want to go to that much expense or trouble really. I need something to drive and wheel soon.. I'm itching to go wheeling :rolleyes:

Jim311
05-01-2005, 11:10 PM
I'm thinking about putting a mild cam in it, but that's about all. I looked for headers but they're all really expensive.

Jim311
05-22-2005, 05:35 PM
Alright.. well.. the engine is in the Jeep, the tranmission is bolted up. So now it's just a matter of buttoning everything up. I had to get some friends to come over to wiggle, pry, and adjust the engine/tranny on the jacks to get it to bolt up, and I might have fucked up the CPS during the installation, but other than that all I have to do is just connect some wires and hope it fires! The only ones I'm concerned about really are the injector connectors. I'm hoping they're all labeled so I know which goes to where. I should be up and running soon!

:supz:

ATL ZJ
05-22-2005, 06:30 PM
Just a friendly reminder:

Make sure you adjust the TV cable properly before you drive, otherwise you'll fry the clutches in your tranny. :mrgreen:

Jim311
05-22-2005, 07:13 PM
Just a friendly reminder:

Make sure you adjust the TV cable properly before you drive, otherwise you'll fry the clutches in your tranny. :mrgreen:


Hmm.. I can't just hook it right back up? Why would the setting have changed? Any other important (not totally obvious suggestions) before I crank this byotch up?

ATL ZJ
05-22-2005, 10:08 PM
Just a friendly reminder:

Make sure you adjust the TV cable properly before you drive, otherwise you'll fry the clutches in your tranny. :mrgreen:


Hmm.. I can't just hook it right back up? Why would the setting have changed? Any other important (not totally obvious suggestions) before I crank this byotch up?

I'm not sure how the setting would have changed, only advising that you check it. I just know that if it's wrong, bad things happen.

TrojanMan
05-22-2005, 10:50 PM
What did you do, rebuild, or buy a used engine? There are two different routes.

If you rebuilt it, and the piston rings are new and all that jazz... you have to go through a process to make sure the rings set right, as well as change the oil in steps starting at 20 minutes idling all the way up to 2,000 miles.. if you're using new pistons/rings/bearings/bore, let me know and i'll explain further.

If you're using a used engine, I reccomend changing the main bearings (even though now that its installed it would be smart). If not you should atleast give it a new igniton setup. Make sure that the torque converter/flex plate bolts are in there good and tight too, you don't want one of those coming off and screwing up your tranny.

Otherwise enjoy :partyman:

LouisianaZJ
05-22-2005, 10:55 PM
dude, i really hope you have rebuilt an engine or something

cause this is the type of shit i left JU for, a buch of turds giving out info on stuff they have never even worked on before :partyman:





How bad is the block though? Is it rebuildable?


As far as I can tell it's rebuildable and the block and cylinders are all in good shape. I'm still thinking of going the salvaged route, however. I'm not engine rebuilder... although I guess I could try.

You should stroke it then. Stroking it is pretty much the same as rebuilding it, except you put in a bigger crank/rods. With a FSM its all pretty simple, just a matter of turning some bolts. You'll have more power and a brand new engine at the same time. If you do rebuild you should at the very least make sure you rebore and get a good crosshatch hone on it.

TrojanMan
05-22-2005, 11:34 PM
dude, i really hope you have rebuilt an engine or something

cause this is the type of shit i left JU for, a buch of turds giving out info on stuff they have never even worked on before :partyman:





How bad is the block though? Is it rebuildable?


As far as I can tell it's rebuildable and the block and cylinders are all in good shape. I'm still thinking of going the salvaged route, however. I'm not engine rebuilder... although I guess I could try.

You should stroke it then. Stroking it is pretty much the same as rebuilding it, except you put in a bigger crank/rods. With a FSM its all pretty simple, just a matter of turning some bolts. You'll have more power and a brand new engine at the same time. If you do rebuild you should at the very least make sure you rebore and get a good crosshatch hone on it.

Come take a look in my garage :finga:

XJ Matt
05-22-2005, 11:38 PM
just get a torquey cam for the new 318 and you will be happy.

5.9 is overrated.

Jim311
05-23-2005, 07:24 AM
I bought a salvaged motor. It has a new water pump, cap/rotor/wires/plugs, radiator hoses, thermostat, CPS, new rear main seal, oil pan gasket, oil pump, etc. Basically anything I thought would be a bitch to change out while the engine was in the Jeep I replaced. Didn't get a cam or any performrance upgrades, however. I still think it will run much better than the previous motor, though.

TrojanMan
05-23-2005, 08:09 PM
I bought a salvaged motor. It has a new water pump, cap/rotor/wires/plugs, radiator hoses, thermostat, CPS, new rear main seal, oil pan gasket, oil pump, etc. Basically anything I thought would be a bitch to change out while the engine was in the Jeep I replaced. Didn't get a cam or any performrance upgrades, however. I still think it will run much better than the previous motor, though.

we'll find out soon enough :partyman:

Jim311
05-23-2005, 08:22 PM
I bought a salvaged motor. It has a new water pump, cap/rotor/wires/plugs, radiator hoses, thermostat, CPS, new rear main seal, oil pan gasket, oil pump, etc. Basically anything I thought would be a bitch to change out while the engine was in the Jeep I replaced. Didn't get a cam or any performrance upgrades, however. I still think it will run much better than the previous motor, though.

we'll find out soon enough :partyman:


Werd up. I've just gotta figure out where all these damn wires go :partyman:


If I work diligently tonight I might even be able to fire her up and be running for tomorrow.. although I still need to weld the exhaust back up...

TrojanMan
05-23-2005, 08:56 PM
The good thing is the wires were cut to the perfect length to go where they belong, and in most cases the plugs only fit in where they're supposed to go. If you look closely, the wires should even still be bent the same way they have been for the past 10 years (give or take). That combination makes things easy to figure out. Good luck, wear a diaper.. its always a tough moment the first time you turn the key over.

Also, I don't know how much engine work you've done so you may or may not have already done this.. but charge that battery up, it may have died a little while not being used.. it'll scare you the first time you try to start it and it won't go. Happened to me last year. A jump from my mom's mini-van and I was good to go :weedman:

Jim311
05-23-2005, 10:15 PM
So far things are going smootly, but I'm curious about the injectors. They've each got their own plug, but none of the plugs are unique. Some say "B2" others say "B4" and so on. But the way my wiring harness is oriented doesn't seem to be correct if "B2" means that it's the injector to cylinder number 2. Perhaps I've got my wiring harness flipped around or something. I *think* it's supposed to mount to the back of the firewall just above the distributor on some sort of plastic rail or something, but it's difficult to tell because we didn't necessarily route the wires properly as we were installing the engine. I took some pics, but none of the rear of the firewall, and I didn't notice how the injector connectors came off unfortunately. A little help anybody?

TrojanMan
05-23-2005, 10:20 PM
the electrical connections on my injectors are marked "inj1" "inj2...6" so maybe B1 is referring to cylinder 1.

Jim311
05-23-2005, 10:22 PM
That's what i'm thinking. But the way I have the harness oriented now (which seems correct) doesn't match up. The odd numbered connectors are on the even side and vice versa. Hmm.

Jim311
05-23-2005, 11:05 PM
Well, I connected the injectors. I guess the numbering on the inside of the connector doesn't mean anything, at least that's what I'm hoping because none of them matched the particular cylinder. I labeled the heat shields next to each plug which cylinder was which and connected according. I've still got a few "mystery connectors" that I can't figure out where to plug though :rofl:


I'll put in a few more hours tomorrow when I've had a bit more rest. This new work schedule makes me feel like a grandpa... early to bed, early to rise.

TrojanMan
05-24-2005, 04:53 PM
maybe the dude who assembled it fawked up, which wouldn't surprise me. If you don't have it running tomorrow i'll see if I can run out to the junkyard to take a look at a 5.2, I know there are a few. Anything you want me to take a picture of?

Jim311
05-24-2005, 05:37 PM
I'm still wondering where the wire and connector for my TPS is at... I've got several connectors but none seem to fit the TPS...

Jim311
05-24-2005, 09:09 PM
I figured out why I was having issues. Apparently sometime between 96 and 98 DC decided that they wanted to change their connectors. There's one sensor on the front of the throttle body that I had to change. The 96 uses shorter mounting bolts but the sensor is essentially the same. Also, in 98 apparently the coil changed. The 96 connector does not connect. Now I'm just left with ONE fucking wire on the right hand side of the harness and I don't know what the connector goes to!

:mad:

Jim311
05-24-2005, 11:47 PM
Well, I found the mystery connector in my Haynes manual.. guess they are good for something. It goes to the distributor (camshaft position sensor in distributor) but the connectors don't match. I *do not* want to have to pull off the distributor and deal with Summit if I can avoid it. I wonder if I can just solder the appropriate wires...

Tommy
06-17-2008, 07:02 PM
I did some searching but really didn't find anything to helpful. So what was the consensus here? I may be replacing my 5.2. Would it be woth my time to swap the 5.9?


From what I have read I will need to swap the computer? I didn't see a definate yes on the injectors? I believe it will also bolt up to my existing tranny?


Thought's?

Nonstop
06-17-2008, 07:18 PM
Did you look at the last post date? This might be the oldest resurected yet, but I am in for an answer, I am wnating to get ready for swapping a 5.9 in the place of the 5.2 also, maybe in December...

speedmontzj
11-15-2008, 02:37 PM
anyone ever find any for sure kinda answers? what about the stroker setup? do you have to run a stand alone mpi setup or can you use the stock setup with improvements?

i was looking at some of the stroker kits/shortblocks. a 318/390 is the same price as a 408. with that much motor most stuff would have to be changed anyway.

98ZJ5.9
11-20-2008, 01:37 AM
I did some searching but really didn't find anything to helpful. So what was the consensus here? I may be replacing my 5.2. Would it be woth my time to swap the 5.9?


From what I have read I will need to swap the computer? I didn't see a definate yes on the injectors? I believe it will also bolt up to my existing tranny?


Thought's?

The computer is deffinitely different. Bear in mind the 5.9 has stickers advising "unleaded premium only". The owners manual calls for 90 or 91 octane (can't remember which). You can have the computer "reflashed" at the dealer so the thing runs without pinging on regular but you pay a price in power. I honestley didn't think mine had any more guts once reflashed than the 5.2. When I started doing a lot of towing with it I had it returned to its original specs and then really noticed the difference.:)