PDA

View Full Version : safe to drive without upper control arm bolt?



Michael
04-04-2005, 02:25 PM
shit fellout just like my lower trackbar bolt. wtf is with these damn bolts. do i need to get a spair set for everything? wtf. for now i took a bolt and duct taped it in cause i couldn't find the nut til i get to the hardware store in town. were all these supposed to be threadlocked or something when i took them off to install my lift? :smt009 :smt009 :smt009 :smt009 :smt009 :smt009 :smt009 :smt009 :smt009 :smt009 :smt009

Cue-Ball
04-04-2005, 02:57 PM
Dude,

Ductape+suspension=DISASTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Stop driving the Jeep until you can get the correct hardware needed for the control arm. There are alot of places on a Jeep you can jerry rig but the suspension is no place to "mokey around"

Michael
04-04-2005, 03:18 PM
so how do i get 35 miles from my cabin to the hardware store?

ATL ZJ
04-04-2005, 03:23 PM
Ride a bike.
Walk.
Call a friend to pick you up.
Ride a fourwheeler.
Snowshoe.
Parasail.

Just don't drive your Jeep like that. Not only are you endangering yourself, you're a risk to everybody else on the road.

Michael
04-04-2005, 03:26 PM
okay, so what size it it, do i need a lock washer?

what would you do if you were on a trail when this happen?

Nordic1
04-04-2005, 03:29 PM
Ride a bike.
Walk.
Call a friend to pick you up.
Ride a fourwheeler.
Snowshoe.
Parasail.


:smt046

ATL ZJ
04-04-2005, 03:32 PM
If this happened on the trail, I would grab a new nut and/or bolt out of my box of spare bolts I keep with me, or at least ratchet strap the axle in place. The purpose of the uppers is to keep the pinion angle and caster set.

Theoretically, you only need one upper to keep the pinion angle set. But with the stock arms (or shortarms,) you probably need 2. Plenty of longarm kits have only one upper to reduce binding during flex.

You need to get that bolt out. I suggest using a socket to thread it out, or a punch to knock it out if it isn't cooperating. Then go to the hardware store and get you a nut of the correct size. Get a lockwasher or LockTite if you want. But please be safe and make good decisions in getting to the hardware store. Good luck

Michael
04-04-2005, 03:42 PM
well, in my theory, the control arm is not putting sideways pressure on the bolt, so it shouldn't be able to vibrate out if a metric ton of duct tape is used to secure it in. i drove around for who knows how long with it like this, so this is much safer than the 300 miles i drove around yesterday. i guess i'll just have a friend bring a bolt up.


could you provide a list of what bolts and shit you take with you?

Cue-Ball
04-04-2005, 03:54 PM
If this happened on the trail, I would grab a new nut and/or bolt out of my box of spare bolts I keep with me, or at least ratchet strap the axle in place. The purpose of the uppers is to keep the pinion angle and caster set.

Theoretically, you only need one upper to keep the pinion angle set. But with the stock arms (or shortarms,) you probably need 2. Plenty of longarm kits have only one upper to reduce binding during flex.

You need to get that bolt out. I suggest using a socket to thread it out, or a punch to knock it out if it isn't cooperating. Then go to the hardware store and get you a nut of the correct size. Get a lockwasher or LockTite if you want. But please be safe and make good decisions in getting to the hardware store. Good luck

x2

nate
04-04-2005, 06:45 PM
It will be find with the duct tape. 1 upper control arm is enough anyway.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
04-04-2005, 07:40 PM
i agree. i actually drove my jeep for a couple months with only 2 control arms in the front. i couldnt tell any difference.

Michael
04-04-2005, 08:00 PM
:drinkers:

OverkillZJ
04-04-2005, 11:50 PM
You could probably get away with it, but I'll never say I "condone it" per say (disclaimer.)

RufftyTuffty
04-05-2005, 12:29 AM
Get some grade 8 replacements with nylon locking washers.

Or...use RED locktight.

~Mike

If you offroad you should be checking all bolts/bushings every few weeks......a minimum of once a month.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
04-05-2005, 12:31 AM
You could probably get away with it, but I'll never say I "condone it" per say (disclaimer.)

ok just curious but wouldnt the CA just pop off during the first turn or first bump? that would definatley be a bad thing.

OverkillZJ
04-05-2005, 12:41 AM
You could probably get away with it, but I'll never say I "condone it" per say (disclaimer.)

ok just curious but wouldnt the CA just pop off during the first turn or first bump? that would definatley be a bad thing.

Why do you need two upper CA's to go a couple of miles? :weedman:

I say that as a joke, abut all the phoenix test drives were with one upper front and one upper rear....

nathaniel
04-05-2005, 12:49 AM
Get some grade 8 replacements with nylon locking washers.

Or...use RED locktight.

~Mike

If you offroad you should be checking all bolts/bushings every few weeks......a minimum of once a month.

That being said did you fix the rear upper rk joint on yours? It was falling apart at GSSW before the trails.

It's fine just don't do anything that puts a lot of pressure on it like slamming on your brakes.

It will most likely loosen up your other arms though. Either use locktite red/blue or nylon locknut or the nuts that are crushed a little. forgot what they're called.

Michael
04-05-2005, 12:53 AM
this f-ker is hard as shiz to get out. what gives? its got some odd torx size bolt in it, anyone know what size so i can get the right tool instead of trying to use channel locks to screw it out? only torx size i have is t55 and its way too big.

KevinF
04-05-2005, 01:00 AM
A curved pair of vice grips around the head works well. Those bolts are 10mm, so get some M10x1.5x80mm replacements (10.9 grade) and you'll never have to contend with those stupid Torx bolts again.

I drove from Moab to Phoenix with only one upper arm at 60mph+ and at 6" plus of lift. If you have one good one, chances are that will be enough for you to get to the hardware store.

Kevin

Swamp boy
04-05-2005, 11:02 PM
I broke an upper control arm on a ride last year and didnt even know about it til I got home ..About 90 or so miles... I had a slight shimmy every once in a while but nothing major....

When I got home and crawled under my jeep to find out what the hell was going on I found this...

http://images.igloos.ca/d/65751-1/f999883e.jpg

robselina
04-07-2005, 12:42 AM
LOL. I love seeing people get freaked out about little stuff.....I presume you've already fixed this by now, but just tie the control arm up and out of the way and go to the hardware store. I ran around on 3 control arms up front for a couple of months, no issues just like overkill and swampboy are saying.

As for solutions: toque crap down to spec :smt003
if that's too hard for you, as was mentioned, nylon lock nuts work wonders...

Krash80
04-15-2005, 10:05 PM
lmao...you guys crack me up. I usually have a good time chewing people out for crazy unsafe suspension shit being used on the street, but think about what he's doing. All he is doing is holding the bolt in place with duct tape rather than the nut. Sure over enough time that bolt would rattle itself out, but other than vibrations, what's going to make that bolt slide out of place? Are there little gnomes under his jeep tapping his bolts out of place??? "NO>..BAD GNOMES! STOP THAT!"

besides, as already mentioned, you only need one UCA per axle.

you guys underestimate the power of duct tape...i couldn't tell you how many times i held vital parts of my jeep together with duct tape...i've had a swaybar link made entirely out of duct tape on my jeep for almost 2 years now. Shoot..just last week my buddy drove his XJ home from a jobsite with his rear DRIVESHAFT duct taped together!

nate
04-16-2005, 06:17 AM
Fucking Knomes. They need to haul ass over hear and start building my Jeep :mrgreen: