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View Full Version : How to fix my front suspension???



Greg95zj
03-30-2005, 02:39 PM
Alrighty I have a custom (pulled it out of my ass and built it out of my bedroom) suspension, everything works well but there are a couple nagging issues that need to be addressed, does anyone know the CORRECT distance and angle for radius arms to the stock bushing. Meaning i can't quite get the mounting spot for the radius arms on the fron long arms right. Help would be great.

Greg

Nordic1
03-30-2005, 02:53 PM
wait a minute... you're running radius arms from the LCA bracket on the body?


*edit* Wha? You're going to need to post some pics and measurements for this one to make sence.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
03-30-2005, 02:58 PM
more importantly, how did you pull a custom suspension out of your ass? all i get is poo!

Greg95zj
03-30-2005, 04:00 PM
you have to eat alot of iron rich food, wait awhile then drink bacon grease. Wait a couple hour or 2 drink some peptal bismal then wahla next poo is a suspenion... hurts a bit comin out though

no i'm not running radius arms from the body.... i'm talking about the mount for the radius arms on the lower control arm. sorry for the confussion.

Greg

Nordic1
03-30-2005, 04:05 PM
The radius arms can be any length and from any angle... all they do is keep the pinion from rotating and the trackbar keeps the axle centered... They can be 6" long or 6' long.. doesn't really matter

Greg95zj
03-30-2005, 07:03 PM
Denke( that is thank you in german), but how is this a newbie question???

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
03-30-2005, 07:20 PM
Denke( that is thank you in german), but how is this a newbie question???

because chase answered your question and he doesnt know chit.

:weedman:

BMRisko
03-30-2005, 07:21 PM
Denke( that is thank you in german), but how is this a newbie question???

because chase answered your question and he doesnt know chit.

:weedman:

Took the words right out of my mouth.

:finga:

dasVettemeister
03-30-2005, 09:03 PM
Denke( that is thank you in german), but how is this a newbie question???

Nein, nein, nein;
Denke ist "think" auf Englisch

DANKE ist "thanks" auf Englisch

Aufwiedersehen! Ja, ich bin einer Schweinehund. :weedman:

nathaniel
03-31-2005, 12:17 AM
6" long is a bad idea puts a lot of stress on the arm. Go with something about the same length as a stock upper arm or a little longer if possible.

Nordic1
03-31-2005, 02:23 AM
Denke( that is thank you in german), but how is this a newbie question???

because chase answered your question and he doesnt know chit.

:weedman:

I know alot more CHIT than you do :smt046


6" long is a bad idea puts a lot of stress on the arm. Go with something about the same length as a stock upper arm or a little longer if possible.

x2

I cheated on my radius arms... I just used a pair of RE adjustable UCAs and then made brackets for them to attach to the LCAs. This pic is of my old setup but you get the idea.

http://www.fototime.com/%7B938C4ED4-3774-4294-87A6-DA663FD40643%7D/picture.JPG

When you do set it up, make sure it doesn't bind to much... that was the death of this setup. My new setup binds (as does all radius setups) but just not nearly as much.

nate
03-31-2005, 05:16 AM
Just run 1 arm on the driver's side and don't worry about the passenger's side. Won't bind.

Greg95zj
03-31-2005, 02:09 PM
Denke( that is thank you in german), but how is this a newbie question???

Nein, nein, nein;
Denke ist "think" auf Englisch

DANKE ist "thanks" auf Englisch

Aufwiedersehen! Ja, ich bin einer Schweinehund. :weedman:

damn it you are right

Greg95zj
03-31-2005, 02:12 PM
well then i think all i need to adjust is the angle for some reason it a bit off...... haven't get my suspension to bind yet and i got 2, but then again my shocks max out and my springs unseat soooo..... you do the math

Kraqa
03-31-2005, 04:11 PM
well then i think all i need to adjust is the angle for some reason it a bit off...... haven't get my suspension to bind yet and i got 2, but then again my shocks max out and my springs unseat soooo..... you do the math


trust me Radius arms BIND it is the nature of there design. there is no way around it unless you run one upper arm. if you have two IT IS BUINDING!

Greg95zj
03-31-2005, 09:13 PM
well then i think all i need to adjust is the angle for some reason it a bit off...... haven't get my suspension to bind yet and i got 2, but then again my shocks max out and my springs unseat soooo..... you do the math


trust me Radius arms BIND it is the nature of there design. there is no way around it unless you run one upper arm. if you have two IT IS BUINDING!


Trust me I know they bind just stating i haven't gotten mine to yet.... probaby will with new shocks and spring

Kraqa
03-31-2005, 10:02 PM
ok well here it is.


the longer the upper arm the better. when you step on the breaks the axle want to rotate forward. if the legnth of you upper are is short the angle is greater and it puts alot of leverage on your upper mounts and twits the lower arm alot. that is why alot of people who try to run radius arms with stock mounts and one upper arm rip the lower mounts off. if you increase the length the leverage is less. This is good. my suggestion to you is make you upper arm as long as you can with out it interfering with anything. OR run a new UCA mount right above you lower mount. then there is no angle between you uppers and your lowers and no twisting.

i hope this helps.

and this is a legit newbie question because if you can't figure out how long to make your uppers, or at least have the inginouity to look at pictures and find out. then in this forum ..........you are NEWB. Dont' forget this is NOT JU or NAGCA

you learn to count in elementary school, not in college.

MC IS ZJ college

ATL ZJ
03-31-2005, 10:29 PM
MC IS ZJ college
Dead on.

Kraqa, how long are your upper(s)? My KOR front is giving me problems, on and offroad. Most of the offroad issues were caused by shitty welds on the cast, but onroad, I am starting to think the upper is way too short to get my caster in the range where it needs to be and still not want to tear apart from its mount when tortured offroad. I guess if I break it again, I will toss out all of it and consider running a triangulated 4 link front.

Kraqa
03-31-2005, 10:35 PM
Arm Length:


Front

Upper: 21”
Lower: 46-5/8”

Rear

Upper: 40-1/2”
Lower: 38-1/2”
* These are all approximate sizes so give or take ½”.

nathaniel
04-01-2005, 12:08 AM
MC IS ZJ college
Dead on.

Kraqa, how long are your upper(s)? My KOR front is giving me problems, on and offroad. Most of the offroad issues were caused by shitty welds on the cast, but onroad, I am starting to think the upper is way too short to get my caster in the range where it needs to be and still not want to tear apart from its mount when tortured offroad. I guess if I break it again, I will toss out all of it and consider running a triangulated 4 link front.

If you need the tube to be longer or shorter for the caster. KOR can get it for you fairly easily. I have had 2 jeeps that the link needed to be about an 1" longer than normal with no real placement or reason behind it.

nathaniel
04-01-2005, 12:15 AM
ok well here it is.


OR run a new UCA mount right above you lower mount. then there is no angle between you uppers and your lowers and no twisting.


I disagree with this. If there is still four arms the stesses put on the upper arm if there isn't ~8+" (vertically)will be huge. This is why RK 1st gen design was always ripping off. That and the metal their mount was welded to was never designed for that kind of stress.

4link radius fronts are just a bad idea. find a way to 3 link or a completely different design all together. IMO

ATL ZJ
04-01-2005, 02:09 AM
If you need the tube to be longer or shorter for the caster. KOR can get it for you fairly easily. I have had 2 jeeps that the link needed to be about an 1" longer than normal with no real placement or reason behind it.

The link is plenty long for where it's placed on the lower. That bracket would need to be moved upward (towards the frame-side mount) on the lower arm in order to accomplish what Kraqa is talking about. It's hard getting my caster to a low enough degree as it is, even with that link so short. Lengthening it would only increase my caster angle- that is not the problem. And even if that was the case, I can buy, cut, and weld threaded inserts into some DOM rather than having a shop do that and pay cross-country shipping. Not saying that KOR is bad whatsoever- I still refer many inexperienced wheelers there for sliders and the like.

Greg95zj
04-05-2005, 02:22 PM
ok well here it is.


the longer the upper arm the better. when you step on the breaks the axle want to rotate forward. if the legnth of you upper are is short the angle is greater and it puts alot of leverage on your upper mounts and twits the lower arm alot. that is why alot of people who try to run radius arms with stock mounts and one upper arm rip the lower mounts off. if you increase the length the leverage is less. This is good. my suggestion to you is make you upper arm as long as you can with out it interfering with anything. OR run a new UCA mount right above you lower mount. then there is no angle between you uppers and your lowers and no twisting.

i hope this helps.

and this is a legit newbie question because if you can't figure out how long to make your uppers, or at least have the inginouity to look at pictures and find out. then in this forum ..........you are NEWB. Dont' forget this is NOT JU or NAGCA

you learn to count in elementary school, not in college.

MC IS ZJ college


Well this is actually what i figured and did... my upper arms are as long as possible, cut off the factory lower mounts to they would clear when the axle moved up... guess i did it right then, just making sure,

Thanks

happy
04-08-2005, 12:15 AM
wristed arms don't bind, right?

wuold u go with radius or a wristed setup?

JeepinHank
04-08-2005, 01:38 PM
wristed arms don't bind, right?

wuold u go with radius or a wristed setup?

How should I say this... You really don't build a "wristed arm" suspension. Wristed is more or less a feature of the suspension arm. You can build a radius arm setup with wristed arms, or build a typical 4 or 5 link with wristed arms. Teraflex adjustable arms are technically wristed.

On a radius arm suspension, the binding comes into play when you have radius arms on both sides. When one side compresses and the other droops, the axle is going to rotate, and the radius arms will try to counteract themselves. I plan to prevent this by running a radius arm on the drivers side, and a LCA only on the passenger side.

*at least that's the way I've always visualized it...