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View Full Version : Sequence of install 8.8 tall ring gear and lock right



chadjans
03-26-2005, 10:34 PM
Hey guys, I have a new lock right I want to install in my 8.8. It has 4.56 gears which means it is a thick ring gear. I have removed the carrier from the axle and removed the ring gear to get the cross pin out. Now I don not know how I can get it all back together with the thick ring gear. Does anyone know the sequence of install to get all this together with the cross pin and thick ring gear?

Chad

Swamp boy
03-27-2005, 12:06 AM
I think you have to grind a small part off of on of the teeth...
I saw a writeup somewhere... But I cant find it now..

I will keep looking...


Carl

Nordic1
03-27-2005, 12:44 AM
I think you have to grind a small part off of on of the teeth...


That's what I did to get my ARB pin in

nate
03-27-2005, 02:43 AM
Sometimes you can position the ring gear so the pin will clear. Mine was like that. Otherwise, grind a bit off the tooth, or notch the cross pin.

Nordic1
03-27-2005, 03:17 AM
If you don't feel comfortable doing your own machine work, CompleteOffRoad.com sells a notched cross-pin for 40 bucks.

http://completeoffroad.com/wsm/c-17_ford_88.html

nate
03-27-2005, 06:40 AM
Fuck that. Take a dremel, grind like 1/8 off the tip of the tooth and your good to go.

OverkillZJ
03-27-2005, 09:25 AM
Couldn't you also remove the ring gear, install the locker, then reassemble? I've never worked with an 8.8 but that's the procedure for a no-slip in a d30 for 3.73 gears+

Swamp boy
03-27-2005, 09:36 AM
You have to put the c clips in first and then you have to put the pin in last...

So it wont work... The Dana 30 is semi floater... No c-clips...

It sucks but its either grind a tooth or notch the pin... ..

Still didnt find the writeup... Sorry.. :toimonst:

OverkillZJ
03-27-2005, 10:10 AM
That's right, I forgot it was a c-clipped axle...

chadjans
03-27-2005, 01:22 PM
I already have a notched pin. It is not made of the same hardened material as the oem one. You have to run a hardened pin with the lockright. The side gears aren't as tall as the oem side gears so you don't need the notched pin. So I should have ground two teath down on the ring gear and rin the oem cross pin. And continued to install the lock right like any other c cliped axle. But stupid me I removed the carrier and fucked up the shim arangement. So now I think I fucked up my 200 dollar gear setup. And I have to drive 200 miles today back to school. Wish me luck.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
03-28-2005, 12:46 AM
That's what FOURWHEEL PARTS did to get my ARB pin in

fixed :butthead:

LouisianaZJ
03-28-2005, 01:00 AM
fwiw, grinding off the gear tooth is supposed to be better than the nawtched pin. its supposed to be stronger

i've heard this from several sources

Swamp boy
03-28-2005, 02:54 AM
CAPTAIN OBVIOUS TO THE RESCUE....




:finga: :finga:




:rock:

chadjans
03-28-2005, 04:52 AM
fwiw, grinding off the gear tooth is supposed to be better than the nawtched pin. its supposed to be stronger

i've heard this from several sources

Having a notched pin is not related or corralated to getting the pin to clear the ring gear. You need a notched pin to rotate it to the relief side to slide the shafts in to get the c clips out because it will not clear the ring gear to be removed. Neither a notched pin or a non notched pin will clear the ring gear.

nate
03-28-2005, 05:17 AM
What I was talking about with the notched pin is grinding a bit off 1 end so you can slide it out enough to push the shafts in.

I would remove a bit off the tooth, that's what I did on my first gear set. Just maybe 1/8" on the tip near the pin. I took a Dremel with a fine grinding wheel and took a little bit off at a time until the pin could come out.

On my 2nd gear set, somehow it worked out that the pin would slide between 2 teeth and I didn't need to do anything. Weird.

dasVettemeister
03-28-2005, 05:47 PM
It's been several years since I installed mine, but I believe I notched the pin. That's the easy way.