JohnBoulderCO
03-13-2005, 11:28 PM
I noticed some ZJ's doing the WJ cross over steering upgrade. Here is a little trick I did last summer to get max droop without using a drop pitman arm.
The reason Teraflex and Rock Krawler sell those drop pitman arms and track bar drop brackets is because the WJ TRE's do not allow enough twist starting just above a standard 2" lift on a WJ (with shorter shocks).
A 4" lift kit for a WJ with longer shocks (26"), has both the DPA and TB bracket, because the stock draglink TRE's will bind with shocks at that length with out them. I have suspension cycled the WJ in the garage (no springs) to make sure my draglink was NOT acting like a limiting strap. It was! So I added a DPA (a la bumpsteer), then a TB bracket. It never stayed tight and my spring hit it, my axle hit it....what a mess.
Better way.
To keep your stock pitman arm, use a Chevy High misalignment TRE at the pitman arm end (ES2027L) and the stock drag link WJ TRE at the passenger hub side of the drag link.
The Chevy TRE thread is 7/8-18L and the WJ TRE is 24mm-xxR. How to make that work on the same tube?
I bought a WJ tie rod (no TRE's), which is bigger then the drag link tube, but necks down to the 24mm thread at both ends. Use your stock drag link WJ TRE at the pass hub side and buy a Posion Spyder Tube adapter (7/8-18L) and jam nut for the pitman arm side. Cut the tie rod tube to length and weld the tube adapter in place.
You will have to machine your pitman arm for the Chevy TRE. The taper is different then the WJ TRE, I believe it was 8 degrees. A machine shop did that for me for a six pack. Just bring your pitman arm and the Chevy TRE to match up the angle to CNC it.
Works great!
Lots of droop, no bind, no drop pitman, no drop track bar, beefer drag link tube and stock TRE's for replacement if needed.
The reason Teraflex and Rock Krawler sell those drop pitman arms and track bar drop brackets is because the WJ TRE's do not allow enough twist starting just above a standard 2" lift on a WJ (with shorter shocks).
A 4" lift kit for a WJ with longer shocks (26"), has both the DPA and TB bracket, because the stock draglink TRE's will bind with shocks at that length with out them. I have suspension cycled the WJ in the garage (no springs) to make sure my draglink was NOT acting like a limiting strap. It was! So I added a DPA (a la bumpsteer), then a TB bracket. It never stayed tight and my spring hit it, my axle hit it....what a mess.
Better way.
To keep your stock pitman arm, use a Chevy High misalignment TRE at the pitman arm end (ES2027L) and the stock drag link WJ TRE at the passenger hub side of the drag link.
The Chevy TRE thread is 7/8-18L and the WJ TRE is 24mm-xxR. How to make that work on the same tube?
I bought a WJ tie rod (no TRE's), which is bigger then the drag link tube, but necks down to the 24mm thread at both ends. Use your stock drag link WJ TRE at the pass hub side and buy a Posion Spyder Tube adapter (7/8-18L) and jam nut for the pitman arm side. Cut the tie rod tube to length and weld the tube adapter in place.
You will have to machine your pitman arm for the Chevy TRE. The taper is different then the WJ TRE, I believe it was 8 degrees. A machine shop did that for me for a six pack. Just bring your pitman arm and the Chevy TRE to match up the angle to CNC it.
Works great!
Lots of droop, no bind, no drop pitman, no drop track bar, beefer drag link tube and stock TRE's for replacement if needed.