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View Full Version : True 1-ton steering???



Cue-Ball
03-02-2005, 08:43 PM
hmm. those "1 ton" TRE's are actually not 1 ton. my ford f250 front end had larger TRE's on it. and the ES2233L....well its from a 1/2 ton. and i'v bent two, chase has bent one and i know more people have bent them. Don't get me wrong, its a good setup but by no means 1 ton.

So has anyone actually used true 1-ton TRE's before? I found a place that has ES2082R AND ES2083L from a Dodge motorhome, he claims these are really 1-ton. Also 7/8" thread.

Anyone know anything about these and if that might be a better way to go?

Here is what I bought before I picked up my Tera knuckle:

ES2233L Pass side tie rod end. Ream hole for drag link
ES2234R Drivers side tie rod end.
ES2027L High miss alignment draglink end. Use on pitman arm.
ES2026R Drag link end attaches to ES2233L.

Since I have picked up the Tera knuckle I don't need the ES2233L anymore and so I might just sell off all this stuff I have and go with these ones from the motorhome, what do you think? And anyone interested in buying this stuff?

nathaniel
03-02-2005, 08:53 PM
So what difference does it make what tie rod end it is if they are all 7/8 threads. 1 ton is the same as 1/2 nobody has anything bigger than 7/8 so why are we always having this discussion. Carry a spare end it wont kill you. And if you have over knuckle steering than learn how to drive if you are always bashing your steering. Also use hydro assist to take the pressure off the draglink.

Cue-Ball
03-02-2005, 11:49 PM
Wow, sorry I asked. I gues I misunderstood Kraqa when he said his 1-ton Ford TRE's were much bigger than the ones most of the guys are calling 1-ton.

nathaniel
03-03-2005, 11:08 AM
I dont mean to jump down your throat I just dont see the point of true "1 ton"
steering if its still has the same shaft diameter. Nobody is breaking the actual tie rod end but the body where the 7/8 comes into play. If you do dana 44 high steer or the tera knuckle over the knuckle strength should be a non issue.

Kraqa
03-11-2005, 03:50 PM
well. hmm thats funny because my f250 ters were 1" thread. and yes people are bending/ breaking at the threaded part. i have doen it twice. Personnaly i would put your foot in your mouth when it comes to things you havn't had experience with.

when i did my so called 1 ton stearing i planed on reuseing one of the TRE's from the stock f250. then i got it all stripped down it was WAY bigger then "1 ton" everyone is rolling around with.

i have a MOOG book and i went through it the problem is that there is no suck factory part, that i could find, that woudl connect the drag link through. all the heavy duty stuff is a cast tie rod that the drag link connects to with one adjustable end on it and it is usually like 40" long. and it costs 300$. so thats why most people use the ES2233L.

MaineZJ
03-11-2005, 03:58 PM
ES2233L
ES2234R
ES2026R
ES2027L

those are what's spec'd on a 1ton chevy (checked prices at Napa yesterday - ain't nothing like a lifetime warranty)

Cue-Ball
03-11-2005, 04:55 PM
Thanks for clearing that up Kraqa,

I think I have decided to use 2 pairs of ES2026R & ES2027L. Since I am going with the Tera knuckle and a crossover set up there is no need to have the 2233L.

This way I can carry one spare of each and be good for both tie rod and drag link.

nathaniel
03-12-2005, 08:42 PM
What are you currently running then diameter and thread pitch. As far as something I don't have any experience with here's a pic.
[IMG]
http://members.cox.net/wildflower117/steering.JPG
[IMG/]

We know that these need to be easily available factory parts so when they get worn out they don't cost a fortune to replace. Otherwise it defeats the purpose.

All four of my steering joints were ~90 including tax.

[quote="Kraqa"]well. hmm thats funny because my f250 ters were 1" thread. and yes people are bending/ breaking at the threaded part. i have doen it twice. Personnaly i would put your foot in your mouth when it comes to things you havn't had experience with.

when i did my so called 1 ton stearing i planed on reuseing one of the TRE's from the stock f250. then i got it all stripped down it was WAY bigger then "1 ton" everyone is rolling around with.

i have a MOOG book and i went through it the problem is that there is no suck factory part, that i could find, that woudl connect the drag link through. all the heavy duty stuff is a cast tie rod that the drag link connects to with one adjustable end on it and it is usually like 40" long. and it costs 300$. so thats why most people use the ES2233L.[/quote

Kraqa
03-12-2005, 08:52 PM
i think your dumbv ui'm drunk and wghat arte you talking about :weedman:

norcaljr
03-13-2005, 12:42 AM
Im using moog ES2010L and ES2010R for the tie rod and ES2026R for the axle side drag link.

jsteves
03-13-2005, 02:20 AM
i think your dumbv ui'm drunk and wghat arte you talking about :weedman:

i think you arent drunk; just think it is funny to act drunk, like those losers at the party who do the same thing! :toimonst:

RufftyTuffty
03-13-2005, 11:31 AM
I think the shorter shank TRE are better...less leverage on the TRE shank.

You also want as much of the thread in the tube....ideally only 3-4 threads left out.

http://www.photostep.com/images/2/331763782.jpg

Also...if your using the Y setup...you prolly want to brace it like Poison Spider does.

~Mike

Kraqa
03-13-2005, 03:41 PM
i think your dumbv ui'm drunk and wghat arte you talking about :weedman:

i think you arent drunk; just think it is funny to act drunk, like those losers at the party who do the same thing! :toimonst:


If i were you i would shut my mouth. you have no idea who i am or what i do on my own time. For someone with little or no time spend over here you have no idea what you are talking about. Just remember where you are. bitch. :smt079

Nordic1
03-13-2005, 04:26 PM
:axe:

OverkillZJ
03-13-2005, 04:27 PM
I think you all need to STFU and get back on topic.

Raacerx
03-13-2005, 09:39 PM
I think the shorter shank TRE are better...less leverage on the TRE shank.

You also want as much of the thread in the tube....ideally only 3-4 threads left out.


Also...if your using the Y setup...you prolly want to brace it like Poison Spider does.

~Mike

How come your ram is right in the middle? Are there any ill effects to that? Wouldn't you want it to attach like as close to the TRE as possible? Just curious...

RufftyTuffty
03-13-2005, 09:45 PM
I think the shorter shank TRE are better...less leverage on the TRE shank.

You also want as much of the thread in the tube....ideally only 3-4 threads left out.


Also...if your using the Y setup...you prolly want to brace it like Poison Spider does.

~Mike

How come your ram is right in the middle? Are there any ill effects to that? Wouldn't you want it to attach like as close to the TRE as possible? Just curious...

No...i dont think it matters. The main issue is keep the ram as parallel to the TR as possible, to maintain the stroke length.

I've just changed the setup to a more HD ram (PSC)...i'll post a pic later.

~Mike

nathaniel
03-13-2005, 11:20 PM
I think you all need to STFU and get back on topic.

Agreed Kraqa restate what you said in your earlier post because it doesn't make much sense.

And include diameter and thread pitch if possible.

Kraqa
03-14-2005, 03:22 PM
it was 18TPI and a 1" shank.