PDA

View Full Version : Chevy Steering with a new twist ?



AprilzWarrior
02-23-2005, 03:46 AM
http://www.spydercustoms.com/parts/steering/Imga0012.jpg
http://www.spydercustoms.com/parts/steering/imga0207.jpg
http://www.spydercustoms.com/parts/steering/Imga0006.jpg




STEERING BLOCK

The Poison Spyder Customs steering block allows you to connect your draglink directly to your tie rod. This is necessary when there is not enough clearance for the draglink to build a standard cross-over steering system. The block fits 1.5" O.D. tubing and is a weld-on component. The block has machined bevels on the lower edge to ensure a solid weld. Steering block accepts a grade 8 bolt and is designed to use a heim joint. Bolt, nut, and alignment bushings for 5/8" heim are included. Heim is not as shown - the bolt does not protrude beyond the rear plane of the block, thus the bolt does not interfere with diff cover, steering stabilizer, etc. This part is intended for off-road use, steering characteristics may not mimic factory steering.



Steering block kit $65.00
(includes weld on block, bolt, heim spacers and nut)



That does not seem so bad to me.. but I wonder if it will still cause the Drag Link and Tie Rod to twist like 1Ton ?


AW

Nordic1
02-23-2005, 04:16 AM
I likey... yeaI was going ot say I wonder if it would work with a TRE

JeepinHank
02-23-2005, 11:33 AM
I likey... yeaI was going ot say I wonder if it would work with a TRE

doubt it. A TRE would have to pass through and be attached on the other side with the castle nut. Kinda defeats the design they've got going here since the castle nut would be hitting the diff cover, track bar, etc. (killing any clearance this thing is designed to gain)

It looks like this block is tapped so you just bolt into it, instead of having the bolt pass through and using a nut from the back side.

IMO it looks like a shiny, glorified piece of steel. Neat concept and all, just not sure its worth it.

ATL ZJ
02-23-2005, 01:50 PM
I think it might be worth something based on the fact that a TON of people bend their passenger side TRE where the draglink connects. Maybe running TREs on the tie rod and a heim at this poison spyder "block" on the draglink would prevent bending or breakage...

MaineZJ
02-23-2005, 04:07 PM
why not use 2 pieces of like 1/4" on each side, making a double shear. strong enough for a ram, should be strong enough for a drag link

ATL ZJ
02-23-2005, 06:33 PM
why not use 2 pieces of like 1/4" on each side, making a double shear. strong enough for a ram, should be strong enough for a drag link

Probably equally as good as the poison spyder block, if not better. I've seen it done a lot on the PBB.

chadjans
02-23-2005, 07:25 PM
why not use 2 pieces of like 1/4" on each side, making a double shear. strong enough for a ram, should be strong enough for a drag link

Probably equally as good as the poison spyder block, if not better. I've seen it done a lot on the PBB.

Because you would be stuck using a stupid heim joint. TRE are soooo much better in steering.

The reason the 2233 or whatever the hell it is, keep bending is beacuse that tapered hole is for a sttering dampner not a drag link.

Chad

Jim311
02-23-2005, 09:47 PM
Cool idea, but 65 bucks for a machined block? Ripoff.



On second thought, it includes a heim. I guess it's somewhat reasonable. I'm beginning to wonder how much I trust my welds, however. If there's an area I dislike welding on, it's my steering.

Cue-Ball
02-24-2005, 12:49 AM
The reason the 2233 or whatever the hell it is, keep bending is beacuse that tapered hole is for a sttering dampner not a drag link.

Chad

Really??

AprilzWarrior
02-24-2005, 01:02 AM
The reason the 2233 or whatever the hell it is, keep bending is beacuse that tapered hole is for a sttering dampner not a drag link.

Chad

Really??

Thats right... I have to ream out the passenger TRE, for the DL TRE.

Cue-Ball
02-24-2005, 01:26 AM
AWE,

I knew we had to ream it out but thought it was due to the 1-ton TRE's.

Oh well won't matter for me anymore since I got a great deal on a brand new Tera knuckle, already drilled out for 1-ton :D

forexfour
02-24-2005, 11:10 AM
I dont think this is gonna fix the problem, atleast on my setup. The issue with the TRE bending is it hits the lower track bar bolt head at full left turns, atleast on my setup. This with the added strength of the PSC box is weakening the TRE where it hits with each full crank.

That price does not include the heim joint, the whole setup is about $116.00 from poison spyder for the complete cross over. For a new one ton setup it would just make your parts list different and I assume you would also use a different TRE on the Right side.

Poison spyder said it would prolly create some pretty good bump steer as well.

If your issue on the one ton setup is the connection with the Drag link TRE and the tie rod this would or could help.

Just how I see it.

chadjans
02-24-2005, 11:53 AM
This block would make tie rod adjustment a bitch.

Chad

nathaniel
02-24-2005, 09:06 PM
Complete waste of money. Doesn't address "problems with 1 ton style, ie rotation of draglink" Yes it eliminates the "weaker" end because its reamed but if you go over knucle and relocate the trackbar out of the way then you wont be breaking the tie rod end. Mine is over and the only thing I have done is bend that tie rod end in the threads "due to loose jam nut" which is 7/8" thick I'm not going to get any stronger.

Only real fix for the 1 ton is to change the way it mounts together

draglink will have the hole in it and attach the tie rod to it. Inverted Y with considerable strength increase and no draglink rotation. But there are a lot of issues with doing this. Finding clearance for the draglink (moving steering box forward to clear stuff.

Best bang for the buck is what Chadjans has done

1 ton steering using 1 hi misalignment end at the pitman over knuckle using ORGS bracket for trackbar. If you want carry an extra end already reamed for the trail.

Raacerx
02-27-2005, 09:39 PM
I can see that reducing rotation because the angle of the draglink is reduced by putting the heim above the bar instead of in line with it (ie 2233). That said, I doubt its much of a difference. Seems the dead spot isnt as bad with hydro assist.

Kraqa
02-28-2005, 10:56 PM
i ran a set up like that for some tim except if was a a peice of 3/4" fB welded to the top of the stock 3/4 ton Tei rod that came with the d44 and i used a goferit off road tapered incert and the stock drag link fliped 90* it worked but it wasnt' very strong i didnt' trust it so i did the ES2233L

AprilzWarrior
02-28-2005, 11:08 PM
Kraqa,
Comparing the two setups, which do you like more ?


AW

Kraqa
02-28-2005, 11:12 PM
hmm well having the stock drag link flipped , because of the bend in the drag link the stearing woudl have a spot where the wheel woudl turn and the tire woudl do nothing the drag link would just move frm front to back and hit the front skid plate. but other then that there is no rear road difrence. al iknwo is that the ES2233L is a week peice of shit and i think that having that on top is what i'm going to do with my current set up so that i can use a beefy TRE on the passenger side. plus it gets it out of the way of rocks.

althoguht here in canada that style of connection is illegal and it will never pass a VI.