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View Full Version : torque converter replacement (42RE)



TrojanMan
02-08-2005, 10:45 PM
Who's done this before? I've never had to so I'm ignorant on how to do it. I have enough fluid for the tranny and torque converter as well. I have a new rear mail seal. What else do I need (as far as gaskets etc)? Also does anybody have any advice? This is a pretty necessary component, i'd hate to mess it up :lol:

RufftyTuffty
02-09-2005, 12:54 PM
Did you get an OEM replacement or an aftermarket HD one?

~Mike

TrojanMan
02-09-2005, 04:58 PM
I got a Level 10 converter. Its pretty much a stock replacement as far as stall and such, but the internals are much stronger.

RufftyTuffty
02-09-2005, 06:25 PM
What make?...got the linkie and part #?

Oh...and what was the symptoms on your old one going bad?

I've got a tranny/torx conv/Tcase whine when pulling away from stop....same?

~Mike

TrojanMan
02-10-2005, 12:47 AM
What make?...got the linkie and part #?

Oh...and what was the symptoms on your old one going bad?

I've got a tranny/torx conv/Tcase whine when pulling away from stop....same?

~Mike

http://www.levelten.com/store/chry/packages/jeep_95.htm
CR310-1000S1

Let me know if you want one, I can get it cheaper, I got it for 290 shipped to my door.

I have a horrible shudder when accelerating from a stop and in the 1-2 shift. I also feel/hear something grinding and whining when it shakes. My acceleration is horrible, gas mileage even worse (than it should be anyway). Overall its just a POS.. but then again i'm only patching a 42RE :roll:

goodolboy71
02-12-2005, 01:00 AM
well i dont know your lift set up but here goes, i did mine in dec.

it will be a pain in the ass but can be done in a day if ur getting at it, pull the transfer case and drive shafts and crossmember. unhook all all the sensors,( 4 or so i think. drop starter and dust cover, take out the torque conv bolts, i had to pry on my flywheel carefully to turn it to get to all of them one at a time, Loosen up the motor mounts makes it easier and allows it to pivot downward more. i think it was 6 bolts to unbolt from engine. slide that bitch outta the flywheel carefully and there is the tc staring at ya. It was hard enough with mine crawling under it with a 4 in lift and no trans jack, if u can get one do it, i am sure it would help out alot, we had to muscle it out and in there and that sucked the most. while ur at it add a trans pan drain plug and replace all the seals for the tc and trans input/output shafts

TrojanMan
02-12-2005, 09:34 PM
well i dont know your lift set up but here goes, i did mine in dec.

it will be a pain in the ass but can be done in a day if ur getting at it, pull the transfer case and drive shafts and crossmember. unhook all all the sensors,( 4 or so i think. drop starter and dust cover, take out the torque conv bolts, i had to pry on my flywheel carefully to turn it to get to all of them one at a time, Loosen up the motor mounts makes it easier and allows it to pivot downward more. i think it was 6 bolts to unbolt from engine. slide that bitch outta the flywheel carefully and there is the tc staring at ya. It was hard enough with mine crawling under it with a 4 in lift and no trans jack, if u can get one do it, i am sure it would help out alot, we had to muscle it out and in there and that sucked the most. while ur at it add a trans pan drain plug and replace all the seals for the tc and trans input/output shafts

Thanks a million, this is exactly what I was looking for.

I have a 2" lift. I also have 4 jackstands, a floor jack, a tranny jack, and air tools on my side. 8)

FinlayZJ
02-13-2005, 12:16 AM
Make sure when you mount the TC you get it to seat fully. You will probably need to spin it a few times and you'll feel it seat down fully. If you don't seat it, you screw yourself.

Edit: Also, some converters are labeled 90*. This means all 4 holes to line up to the flywheel are 90* apart (90-90-90-90). The other type has 1 hole misaligned (88-92-90-90). If you have this type, make sure you mark that hole, otherwise lining up the flywheel and TC once it's back in is going to suck because you'll spin the flywheel around and around looking for the offset holes to align. A long breaker bar pushing on the flywheel teeth makes it easy to spin the engine.