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View Full Version : Longfields on a DD



LouisianaZJ
01-10-2005, 05:38 PM
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

im thinking about putting these on a D30 which sees about 4-5k a year. not my DD, but it is driven to/from trails etc.(going in alloy axles, btw)

what kinda wear you think the bushings would take?

price seems very reasonable at $80 ea

BigDaveZJ
01-10-2005, 05:48 PM
Looks to be a similar design to the CTM's with the bushing.

robselina
01-10-2005, 06:14 PM
yup, that brass ring will have limited life. Frankly, just get good old spicer 297s (and I do mean dana spicer ones, not knockoffs that size) and replace them every year.

robselina
01-10-2005, 06:16 PM
oh yea, I call BS on their special treatment.

LouisianaZJ
01-10-2005, 10:31 PM
the heat treating process is for real

gearhead313
01-11-2005, 10:40 AM
They never worked right in my samurai...but thats a wee bit different. I think they'd work alright.

robselina
01-11-2005, 11:12 AM
the heat treating process is for real

they're showing failure at the same torque a D60 fails at. If you've ever known a guy with toyota birfields, you'll know that's BS.

LouisianaZJ
01-15-2005, 02:03 AM
you really think they will wear out that quickly? since they will only see wear when turning. i dunno

i just dont want to bust up my alloys :)


btw, we are not talking about the yota axles at the top, we are looking at the 760x joints near the bottom of the page

robselina
01-15-2005, 05:15 PM
yea, sorry, just going on a tangent there.....

TEAMFX3
04-02-2005, 02:03 PM
It seems that some of you guys are confusing Bobby Longs longfield birfield joint with his heat treated u-joints this kid is talking about.

Krash80
04-03-2005, 03:36 PM
I'd say try them and see what happens. Obviously the brass bushings will wear more quickly on the street than needle bearings, but if you keep them well greased i'd think you'd be fine with them on the street for limited use. If you're bad at maintenance/greasing and know you won't grease them often, then don't get them cause they need grease to live. LOL>...new Caterpillar tractors even have placards stating, "i need grease to live."

Also, since this is a d30 w/ unit bearings, and it only takes about 20 mins to change a shaft, why not just pull the front shafts if you're going to be driving 1000+ miles to a trail and then reinstall them when you get there? You'd be looking at an extra 45 minutes for swapping in your trail shafts the night before a trail ride when you arrive...not a big deal if ya ask me. Just run the D30 hub conversion i used to run on the street...a broken outer stub to hold the hub together and a paper-towel/duct-tape plug to keep the oil from coming out of the axle tube. :mrgreen:

FWIW also, Longfields, Ox's, and CTM's all use a brass/bronze bushing and none are really recommended for daily driver street use. This is where manual hubs become nice.

Anyway, you got my vote...try them cause I think the longfields are an underrated joint that needs more real world experience to be proven...just like my bling bling ox's that no one likes. :finga:

ATL ZJ
04-03-2005, 06:50 PM
Also, since this is a d30 w/ unit bearings, and it only takes about 20 mins to change a shaft, why not just pull the front shafts if you're going to be driving 1000+ miles to a trail and then reinstall them when you get there? You'd be looking at an extra 45 minutes for swapping in your trail shafts the night before a trail ride when you arrive...not a big deal if ya ask me. Just run the D30 hub conversion i used to run on the street...a broken outer stub to hold the hub together and a paper-towel/duct-tape plug to keep the oil from coming out of the axle tube. :mrgreen:

I believe the unit bearing requires the pressure of the shaft or else it will implode.. So you would have to keep your stock shafts in there with stock ujoints if that is the case. Can anyone back me up or correct me on this? But of course I've never needed to run around like that since I don't have a d30 anymore. :finga:

LouisianaZJ
04-03-2005, 07:26 PM
wrong

u just need a stub in there. the necessary pressure is from the outer and the 36mm nut, the inner shaft is not necessary.

which is what he say was installed :finga: :rock:





Also, since this is a d30 w/ unit bearings, and it only takes about 20 mins to change a shaft, why not just pull the front shafts if you're going to be driving 1000+ miles to a trail and then reinstall them when you get there? You'd be looking at an extra 45 minutes for swapping in your trail shafts the night before a trail ride when you arrive...not a big deal if ya ask me. Just run the D30 hub conversion i used to run on the street...a broken outer stub to hold the hub together and a paper-towel/duct-tape plug to keep the oil from coming out of the axle tube. :mrgreen:

I believe the unit bearing requires the pressure of the shaft or else it will implode.. So you would have to keep your stock shafts in there with stock ujoints if that is the case. Can anyone back me up or correct me on this? But of course I've never needed to run around like that since I don't have a d30 anymore. :finga:

Krash80
04-04-2005, 02:54 AM
Just run the D30 hub conversion i used to run on the street...a broken outer stub to hold the hub together and a paper-towel/duct-tape plug to keep the oil from coming out of the axle tube. :mrgreen:

I believe the unit bearing requires the pressure of the shaft or else it will implode.. So you would have to keep your stock shafts in there with stock ujoints if that is the case. Can anyone back me up or correct me on this? But of course I've never needed to run around like that since I don't have a d30 anymore. :finga:

What part of "use the outer stub to hold the hub together didn't ya get!? :finga: :mrgreen: j/k...i always just used the stub end of my broken CV shafts for my 2wd hub conversion...the hub still gets sandwiched between the jesus nut and the knuckle...it has no idea what's connected behind it.

man...this forum just wouldn't be the same w/out this :finga: smilie!

LouisianaZJ
05-31-2005, 12:47 PM
looks like i willl be running some yukon/Jantz "super joints" (CTM knockoffs kinda)

Some dude in my club was going to put them in his rewbicon axle but i guess he decided not to and i got em for $160 for the NIB pair ($250 online) :finga: only way i could justify some bling joints

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/images/superjointinst1.jpg

OverkillZJ
05-31-2005, 02:04 PM
looks like i willl be running some yukon/Jantz "super joints" (CTM knockoffs kinda)

Some dude in my club was going to put them in his rewbicon axle but i guess he decided not to and i got em for $160 for the NIB pair ($250 online) :finga: only way i could justify some bling joints

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/images/superjointinst1.jpg

Good joints by everything I've heard, I tried to get some here before my trip, but was cutting it too close so I'm just running 760's this year.

DND
05-31-2005, 09:24 PM
looks like i willl be running some yukon/Jantz "super joints" (CTM knockoffs kinda)

Some dude in my club was going to put them in his rewbicon axle but i guess he decided not to and i got em for $160 for the NIB pair ($250 online) :finga: only way i could justify some bling joints

http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/images/superjointinst1.jpg

Good joints by everything I've heard, I tried to get some here before my trip, but was cutting it too close so I'm just running 760's this year.

I just installed a set of these joints in an AlloyUSA set of shafts. They'll only see to and from the trails for street use, not a DD anymore. So I guess it'll be another guinea pig up here. I'm only an hour from the trails for most weekend runs, with usually a single 5-day trip per year that includes some 4-5 hours of highway time each way. I definitely won't be shy with the new 'Super Grease' they come with. Hope they hold up.

MaineZJ
05-31-2005, 09:44 PM
You can only put so much grease in them...

DND
05-31-2005, 10:58 PM
You can only put so much grease in them...

True enough, you can feel the piston bottom-out when they reach capacity. I'm just saying I won't neglect them.

LouisianaZJ
06-02-2005, 11:26 PM
in all their glory:
http://img178.echo.cx/img178/530/yukonjiggityjoints19114uh.th.jpg (http://img178.echo.cx/my.php?image=yukonjiggityjoints19114uh.jpg)

that tube is a big tube of the special "grease" more like some sort of copper antiseize actually

and this same guy was also selling some of those D30 tube seals, i always thought these were kinda cool, not $100 cool, but cool. i got em for $50 NIB
:finga:
http://img178.echo.cx/img178/1288/yukonjiggityjoints19127bz.th.jpg (http://img178.echo.cx/my.php?image=yukonjiggityjoints19127bz.jpg)