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View Full Version : Front sway bar mounts with over the knuckle steering



chadjans
12-19-2004, 02:26 PM
Hey guys I just did a 3/4 toon steering upgrade over the knuckle. Had to cut off front swaybar mounts. How are you guygs mounting your swaybars now? I was thinking of doing something along the inside of the coil bucket, but just wanted to see what you guys have come up with.

Chad

Nordic1
12-19-2004, 09:22 PM
I welded some aftermarket ones in at a higher angle as to clear the steering linkage as much as possable.... How much did you grind off of the front of the 30 for the 1.5" dom to fit?

Raacerx
12-20-2004, 04:04 PM
I only had a plasma cutter that could handle 1/4" so I cut 4 extended swaybar mounts then welded them together so I had 2 1/2" mounts. I mounted them outside my coil buckets. The disconnects splay outward a little bit and its tight clearence however they also act as a limiter on how much I can turn which is good for right now as my brake banjo bolts are hitting the C on the axle at full lock. The mounts go from under the axle and are welded to the control arm mount, then up the front of the axle, welded against the coil bucket, and reinforced with a triangle piece of plate. A little ugly as they were temporary but they have not bent at all over the last 2-3k miles. Ill try to find a picture. Im having nightmares getting the camera hooked up to the computer.

this is ofcourse for a 44 with histeer but you get the idea.

chadjans
12-21-2004, 12:24 AM
What I came up with:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid150/pa43e23ed03b45501f4f04b589093bcf0/f5d68c7c.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid150/p8915e63c09ef6475de307d35b546e1d5/f5d68c44.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid150/pce4e59951ba25c8ebd16a410e5abbc6c/f5d68c0c.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid150/p4e6263a5aab1f6b5318bb273d7c3c5d2/f5d68bdf.jpg

I realize they look bent, it is because they are. They are the original raised brackets I purchase a year ago, just moved.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=2133726759

Chad

chadjans
12-21-2004, 12:32 AM
I welded some aftermarket ones in at a higher angle as to clear the steering linkage as much as possable.... How much did you grind off of the front of the 30 for the 1.5" dom to fit?

Steering dampner mount and a little off the passenger coil bucket. It isn't 1.5 it is 1.25 x .219.

To finish it off I have to get rid of the high misalignment tie rod end at the passenger drag link end to get rid of the dead spot. Don't know why every write up I have read says use a 2026 and a 2027. They are both high misalignment and only one is needed on the pitman arm, no where else in the system.

Chad

Pearce
12-21-2004, 10:08 AM
I got some of these:
http://www.jksmfg.com/images/product/fab_pa2.jpg

http://www.jksmfg.com/fab_parts.htm

And welded them in the stock location such that they are raised above where the tie rod travels. They were actually welded to what was left of the stock sway brackets after I cut them. Its very tight to the coils but worked well.

Raacerx
12-21-2004, 04:53 PM
Its very tight to the coils but worked well.

yeah, my disconnects touch my coils when Im connected, but it barely kisses.

nathaniel
12-22-2004, 12:16 AM
What do you think of the whole deal? Worth it?

chadjans
12-22-2004, 08:20 PM
The bars are junk. The taps are shit. They aren't straight, they wobble a whole bunch. They weren't done on a laith, just by hand. He is still using a crappy left hand tap. Rights were okay but still wobbly. I whould have rather used some weld in inserts but the smaller tube is nice and easy to clear the offending crap. Under the knuckle isn't worth it, WAY to low and actually the angles are worse than over. And under it hits the track bar bolt. Long project and I have to use a non high misalignment end on the drag link at the passenger side. And to overcome the thread wobblys we had to weld on some nuts to the tubes to get enough leverage with a cresent wrench.

Chad

nathan
12-22-2004, 11:12 PM
how is a different tre going to get rid of the dead spot? the dead spot is there because the drag link rotates the tie rod when you turn the steering wheel. i don't see how a tr will fix that.
what's up with the huge nuts on the steering?

chadjans
12-23-2004, 12:40 AM
how is a different tre going to get rid of the dead spot? the dead spot is there because the drag link rotates the tie rod when you turn the steering wheel.

The drag link end is a high misalignment. There is alot of twist in it before it does anything. Getting rid of it cause less twist.



what's up with the huge nuts on the steering?



And to overcome the thread wobblys we had to weld on some nuts to the tubes to get enough leverage with a cresent wrench.

Chad

AprilzWarrior
12-23-2004, 10:02 PM
what's up with the huge nuts on the steering?



Yeah ? WTF ?

:?:

chadjans
12-23-2004, 10:58 PM
what's up with the huge nuts on the steering?



Yeah ? WTF ?

:?:

TO GET LEVERAGE ON THE BARS FOR ADJUSTMENT. USING EITHER A PIPE WRENCH OR CRESENT WRENCH AS POSTED ABOVE.

nate
12-24-2004, 07:37 PM
So you bought the steering setup from someone/someplace? "He is still using a crappy left hand tap."
What size tubing is that?

chadjans
12-25-2004, 12:30 AM
Got them from here: http://www.jcroffroad.com/steering.html . Gave him my required dimensions for length and he tapped them for me. Not on a laith though :(

Chad

nate
12-25-2004, 05:22 PM
1.25"x.219 wall DOM tubing? It looks like a decent setup, $235 isn't bad, though if it's tapped all shitty, he's not going to sell very many.

DOM is hard to get in Alaska... I wonder if using pipe would be bad?

OverkillZJ
12-25-2004, 06:58 PM
I'm thinking pipe would bent like a ubolt....

Remember the guy on JU who tried extending his drive shaft with pipe? THAT was funny...

nate
12-25-2004, 08:28 PM
Dunno, this is all pipe... control arms and all....
http://alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=4639&page=10&pp=10

Never seen the JU thread. I haven't been on there for a long time.

OverkillZJ
12-25-2004, 11:56 PM
Impressive, and I know he obviously knows a lot more about pipe than I do... But I still wouldn't get in that thing, not til' I've seen it roll hard and hold up!

robselina
12-26-2004, 12:45 AM
I'm thinking pipe would bent like a ubolt....

Remember the guy on JU who tried extending his drive shaft with pipe? THAT was funny...

I used sch 80 1" pipe for all my steering on the waggy w/o issues. I've banged the crap out of it and it's still straight.

KevinF
01-02-2005, 10:21 PM
Sorry to hear about the troubles, Chad. This has been done several times by several members on here, and as you know, I need to get mine done as well. What would your recommendations be for a modifying the "classic 1-ton upgrade" that the rest of us were planning on doing? Is there a good reason to re-approach the WJ knuckle concept to be used in conjunction with the 1-ton TREs? What about elimination of the "dead spot"? Do you think a stronger Y design be better than the Chevy T design? I'll have to take a look at it at the party.

Kevin