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JeepinHank
11-30-2004, 01:58 PM
I have a couple of questions about welding my 4-link truss to my 8.8 rear end.

The axle is sitting in my shop right now, but I haven’t done anything with it up to this point aside from draining it and checking out the internals.

My plan is to go ahead and construct a truss out of 2 in square tubing (1/4” wall). I currently don’t have any plans to attach it to the diff itself. In other words I just want to weld the tubes to the housing, then weld the truss to the tubes. Do you guys see any problems with doing that? Will I be setting myself up for a catastrophic failure down the road? If so, I need to go back and re-think my design.

My major question concerns welding the tubes to the housing & the truss to the tubes, without taking out all of the internals. The reason I don’t want to remove the internals is because I’m having a friend help me set up the gears, and I don’t want to take anything out without having him around. He won’t be able to help me out until after X-mas, but I’d like to get the truss done before then. I’ll be re-gearing the axle and replacing all of the bearings, etc. at that time, so I’m not worried about cooking the bearings. I’m basically concerned with messing something up by welding on the axle without removing anything. Does anyone see a potential problem with this if all of the internals are going to be replaced anyway?

Also, would there be any issues with just MIGing the tubes to the housing. I know the whole welding cast to steel issue, but I’ve heard of people doing this in the past with no ill effects. If I have to, I can spring for some nickel rods and borrow a stick welder, but I’d like to avoid that if I can.

Opinions?

Nordic1
11-30-2004, 02:07 PM
Kinda like that:
http://www.fototime.com/%7BAE62565A-E5C5-4142-9A19-DAEB498C8293%7D/picture.JPG
I had aprilzwarrior do the welding on my 8.8.... He turned his mig all the way up and blasted between the tubes and the housing. At that point I already had my ARB and 4.56s installed and they seem to work just fine. When you're building your truss, remember that the 8.8 is offset so you're going to need to leave enough room to weld whatever links you're using onto the truss.... Lol I wish I had a better way of explaining that.




*EDIT* Sorry that's a pic Jerod took and sent to me... I'll resize it when I get home

gearhead313
12-01-2004, 12:11 AM
Its probably not the most correct way, but I've welded the tubes to the housing with 7018AC with my miller 225 at I think around 140-150. It was pretty hot and seemed to penetrate real nice without a lot of fireworks.

nate
12-01-2004, 02:27 AM
your welding cast iron to mild steel.... mig is not the right way to do it. Should be using nickel rod. Least that's what my brother told me, and he's certified in this stuff... must know what he's talking about?

Nordic1
12-01-2004, 03:27 AM
I was told TIGing the tubes would work as well... don't hold me to that though

nathaniel
12-01-2004, 10:02 AM
The proper way is using nickel rod or tiging(sp) them. I know of a few people that have just used regular rod ie 7018 and seem to hold up just fine. Mig would probably work but isnt nearly as strong as the other methods.

I would worry about roasting the inners when you weld on it since you plan on regering anyway. I heated my housing using a torch to 400 after emptying the gear oil and the only ill effects i have is a pinion seal leaks a little.

If you guys need the nickel rod i stil have a bunch left over that i coulld sell ya a few sticks or $3+shipping. They are the really long stick like 18"

You will definately know if you welds are going to hold if you smack them a few times with a hammer as they begin to cool. You can here them crak if not done right

nate
12-01-2004, 10:54 PM
I might take you up on the offer for a few rods. What brand?

nathaniel
12-02-2004, 12:00 PM
I might take you up on the offer for a few rods. What brand?

pretty sure that theyre lincoln. i'll have to check

chadjans
12-02-2004, 04:46 PM
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid60/p03811b6400e7c0e1b5cf7e6273e675cf/fc4f5138.jpg

Chad

chadjans
12-02-2004, 04:49 PM
Chase: Why is your bridge completely arched. It has no flat spot. Meaning I would have made a section above the diff that is flat and not arched for the attachement of the upper control arms.

Chad

AprilzWarrior
12-02-2004, 11:40 PM
Chase used some scrap DOM I had lying around... it actually worked really well.


AW

Nordic1
12-03-2004, 02:13 AM
Using round tube didn't really matter... the space between the trilink mount and the tube was filled in with weld... I thought it came out pretty nice to (especially with the PS rock ring)

Nordic1
12-03-2004, 02:16 AM
http://www.fototime.com/%7BF897C705-D4D6-4EC7-B35B-62C4B2A404F9%7D/picture.JPG
http://www.fototime.com/%7BAFD03A4A-4D87-4FAD-A056-13A2BDAF4C36%7D/picture.JPG

Kraqa
12-03-2004, 01:38 PM
i dont' think your worried too much about penitration on those welds. the sole purpose for those welds are to stop the tubs from spinning in the housing ans stop minimal deflection in the axle...your truss will also do the same things aswell. not nearly as good but still.

I would weld the tubs up then put your truss on. if you dont' have plans for a truss go look at my d70 write up in the write-up section it shows how i did my truss in steps. if your going to go with a 4 link in the rear i really dont' think you NEED to weld up the tubes to the pumkin. i bet your truss will be sufficiant anyways.

just my 2 cents worth.

nathaniel
12-03-2004, 06:41 PM
http://www.fototime.com/%7BF897C705-D4D6-4EC7-B35B-62C4B2A404F9%7D/picture.JPG


Please tell me you guys welded the tri link mount on the bottom and not just 1/2" on the sides and the top all the way. If you didn't you could easily work harden and rip it off.

nate
12-04-2004, 09:55 AM
Well I was thinking of that. If your running a truss, what's the chance that the pumpkin would spin from both tubes? IMO, I'd rather be safe than sorry and run a bead.

AW, you just ran a bead with MIG for the tubes? Regular wire?


Nathaniel... let me know how I can send you some $$, I'll take 5 or 6 rods.

AprilzWarrior
12-04-2004, 02:56 PM
Please tell me you guys welded the tri link mount on the bottom and not just 1/2" on the sides and the top all the way. If you didn't you could easily work harden and rip it off.



1/2" of weld is plenty.... :roll:


I was not born yesterday. :wink:

LouisianaZJ
12-04-2004, 04:00 PM
the pics dont show it, but the mount is reinforced with JB weld on the back of the bracket

Nordic1
12-04-2004, 05:09 PM
the pics dont show it, but the mount is reinforced with JB weld on the back of the bracket


huh?

AprilzWarrior
12-04-2004, 05:11 PM
the pics dont show it, but the mount is reinforced with JB weld on the back of the bracket




See,
thats the mark of a true expert ! :lol:

Jim311
12-04-2004, 11:11 PM
the pics dont show it, but the mount is reinforced with JB weld on the back of the bracket


And some bailing wire.

nate
12-05-2004, 02:21 AM
and duct tape... can't forget that.

AprilzWarrior
12-05-2004, 11:59 PM
and duct tape... can't forget that.

Funny you say that, but the Duct Tape melted, so I used Military Double Back Temper Tape.



AW