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View Full Version : Opinions on Currie HD steering setup?



Jim311
11-14-2004, 05:49 PM
I can get it for 350 bucks shipped. Anybody have any experience with this kit? It looks very stout.

gearhead313
11-15-2004, 11:10 AM
I dont know the specifics, maybe try lookin up the homepage for currie?

all i know is a person in our club has it and its bent already.

OverkillZJ
11-15-2004, 01:07 PM
It is very stout. If you have the time and resources, make your own 1 ton steering.

If you're like me and just "need good steering now" I've been very happy with the Currie. $300 from Summit Racing, couldn't find a cheaper price. I did have to add a bend to the pitman arm on a 20 ton press to make it work with my axloe far forward, and I'm not running a SS since I think it'll get in the way.

There's lots of good pics in the phoenix thread if you can meddle through that 75,000 pages of crap :lol:

Nordic1
11-15-2004, 03:30 PM
I'd say do 1 ton steering... I have a write-up on it here *I think* as well as in the tech section of NAGCA. It's cheaper than currie or Poison Spyder and is stronger.

JpRngr
11-15-2004, 04:26 PM
I'd say do 1 ton steering... I have a write-up on it here *I think* as well as in the tech section of NAGCA. It's cheaper than currie or Poison Spyder and is stronger.

Yeah, but the turning response sucks!! Way too much of a dead spot! :roll:


Corey

Nordic1
11-15-2004, 06:23 PM
I still have a little bit of the "dead spot" but it's not THAT bad

BigDaveZJ
11-15-2004, 07:25 PM
I'd say do 1 ton steering... I have a write-up on it here *I think* as well as in the tech section of NAGCA. It's cheaper than currie or Poison Spyder and is stronger.

Yeah, but the turning response sucks!! Way too much of a dead spot! :roll:


Corey

Just a thought, and trying to visualize Cristi's old steering setup, but wouldn't welding the jamb nut to the TRE on one side eliminate some of that? I seem to remember the jamb nuts coming loose alot, or was it more just the play in the TRE's?

JpRngr
11-15-2004, 09:17 PM
It was the TRE's themselves. With that set-up, you end up twisting the whole tie rod before it moves it side to side. Unless you have the drag link parallel to the tie rod, the drag ling pushes down or pulls up the tie rod before moving it in which ever direction. Needless to say, Cristi's Jeep was very spooky to drive if you weren't used to it.

Corey

Jim311
11-15-2004, 09:53 PM
It is very stout. If you have the time and resources, make your own 1 ton steering.

If you're like me and just "need good steering now" I've been very happy with the Currie. $300 from Summit Racing, couldn't find a cheaper price. I did have to add a bend to the pitman arm on a 20 ton press to make it work with my axloe far forward, and I'm not running a SS since I think it'll get in the way.

There's lots of good pics in the phoenix thread if you can meddle through that 75,000 pages of crap :lol:


By the time I bought the DOM, the tie rod ends, jamb nuts, and a decent reaming tool, it would come out somewhere close. I like the idea of just bolting it up and being ready to run. How much did shipping from Summit run you?

nathaniel
11-15-2004, 10:43 PM
Most of the dead spot can be eliminated by clocking the tie rod ends opposite directions. 300 shipped is a decent price.
Shipping from summit should always be just the handling charge ~10

OverkillZJ
11-16-2004, 12:29 AM
It is very stout. If you have the time and resources, make your own 1 ton steering.

If you're like me and just "need good steering now" I've been very happy with the Currie. $300 from Summit Racing, couldn't find a cheaper price. I did have to add a bend to the pitman arm on a 20 ton press to make it work with my axloe far forward, and I'm not running a SS since I think it'll get in the way.

There's lots of good pics in the phoenix thread if you can meddle through that 75,000 pages of crap :lol:


By the time I bought the DOM, the tie rod ends, jamb nuts, and a decent reaming tool, it would come out somewhere close. I like the idea of just bolting it up and being ready to run. How much did shipping from Summit run you?

I think it was like $5 shipping? Some pre-set shipping price. Then again a total of $324 seems to stick in my head, so I'd just check the site for sure.

Like I said, for a bolt up, I've been quite pleased.

I want to move the axle forward another .5" this winter though, I'm not sure if it's possible, but I'm sure as hell gonna try!

JpRngr
11-16-2004, 02:49 AM
Most of the dead spot can be eliminated by clocking the tie rod ends opposite directions.

Umm..no. Tried that. It still sucked.

Jim311
11-16-2004, 01:47 PM
It is very stout. If you have the time and resources, make your own 1 ton steering.

If you're like me and just "need good steering now" I've been very happy with the Currie. $300 from Summit Racing, couldn't find a cheaper price. I did have to add a bend to the pitman arm on a 20 ton press to make it work with my axloe far forward, and I'm not running a SS since I think it'll get in the way.

There's lots of good pics in the phoenix thread if you can meddle through that 75,000 pages of crap :lol:


By the time I bought the DOM, the tie rod ends, jamb nuts, and a decent reaming tool, it would come out somewhere close. I like the idea of just bolting it up and being ready to run. How much did shipping from Summit run you?

I think it was like $5 shipping? Some pre-set shipping price. Then again a total of $324 seems to stick in my head, so I'd just check the site for sure.

Like I said, for a bolt up, I've been quite pleased.

I want to move the axle forward another .5" this winter though, I'm not sure if it's possible, but I'm sure as hell gonna try!


Cool... I think I might give it a try in the near future. It comes with new rod ends and everything I'll need, right?

nathaniel
11-16-2004, 09:51 PM
Most of the dead spot can be eliminated by clocking the tie rod ends opposite directions.

Umm..no. Tried that. It still sucked.

What did you set toe at? Caster? Cant remember if hers is hp or not.

OverkillZJ
11-16-2004, 10:38 PM
It is very stout. If you have the time and resources, make your own 1 ton steering.

If you're like me and just "need good steering now" I've been very happy with the Currie. $300 from Summit Racing, couldn't find a cheaper price. I did have to add a bend to the pitman arm on a 20 ton press to make it work with my axloe far forward, and I'm not running a SS since I think it'll get in the way.

There's lots of good pics in the phoenix thread if you can meddle through that 75,000 pages of crap :lol:


By the time I bought the DOM, the tie rod ends, jamb nuts, and a decent reaming tool, it would come out somewhere close. I like the idea of just bolting it up and being ready to run. How much did shipping from Summit run you?

I think it was like $5 shipping? Some pre-set shipping price. Then again a total of $324 seems to stick in my head, so I'd just check the site for sure.

Like I said, for a bolt up, I've been quite pleased.

I want to move the axle forward another .5" this winter though, I'm not sure if it's possible, but I'm sure as hell gonna try!


Cool... I think I might give it a try in the near future. It comes with new rod ends and everything I'll need, right?

Yup, very complete kit. Only thing that sucked is the paint, but I think that's true for everything aftermarket.

LouisianaZJ
11-16-2004, 10:45 PM
~ opinion~

you can buy the setup w/o the tie rod for ~$200. I am currently running a ZJ V8 tie rod and a stock DL with a couple bends put in it w/ a press.
I plann on getting the currie DL sometime since my stock adjuster sleeve is almost maxed out due to the lift + bends.

anyways, my point is the v8 tie rod is better than the currie unit b/c spare tre's and parts can be bought locally, and the V8 tie rod will not "self adjust" when you smack it into something and rotate the tube like the currie or stock I6 unit can

chadjans
11-17-2004, 12:01 AM
Most of the dead spot can be eliminated by clocking the tie rod ends opposite directions.

Umm..no. Tried that. It still sucked.

What did you set toe at? Caster? Cant remember if hers is hp or not.

I know it has been discussed, but why do we not feel this dead spot in a stock steering setup? Aren't they basicly the same design as a stock setup? Or am I feeling this dead spot but not recognizing it? Would this dead spot be less aparent if this setup was done under the knuckle?

Chad

OverkillZJ
11-17-2004, 12:17 AM
~ opinion~

you can buy the setup w/o the tie rod for ~$200. I am currently running a ZJ V8 tie rod and a stock DL with a couple bends put in it w/ a press.
I plann on getting the currie DL sometime since my stock adjuster sleeve is almost maxed out due to the lift + bends.

anyways, my point is the v8 tie rod is better than the currie unit b/c spare tre's and parts can be bought locally, and the V8 tie rod will not "self adjust" when you smack it into something and rotate the tube like the currie or stock I6 unit can

I understand it's your opinion, but I'm gonna argue anyway! I went through not one, but TWO V8 setups in one summer. Currie? It survives :)


I do see where you're coming from though.

JpRngr
11-17-2004, 02:19 AM
Most of the dead spot can be eliminated by clocking the tie rod ends opposite directions.

Umm..no. Tried that. It still sucked.

What did you set toe at? Caster? Cant remember if hers is hp or not.

I know it has been discussed, but why do we not feel this dead spot in a stock steering setup? Aren't they basicly the same design as a stock setup? Or am I feeling this dead spot but not recognizing it? Would this dead spot be less aparent if this setup was done under the knuckle?

Chad

Chad,
They are 2 different styles of linkage. With the stock set-up, the DL attaches directly to the right knuckle and the TR attaches from the DL to the left knuckle. So when you turn the DL pushes/pulls directly on the knuckle and pulls/pushes the TR. With the 1 ton set-up, there is a solid TR between the knuckles and the DL attaches to the TR about 6" from the right knuckle. With this set-up, when the DL is not parallel with the TR ( which it's not, it's more like a 30-40 degree angle) it will push down/pull up slightly on the TR before moving it left or right. The TR will twist due to normal TRE movement because of the ball socket in the TRE. This twisting effect is what causes the dead spot in the 1 ton set-up. The dead spot also makes it hard to keep from wandering.
We tried the toe set from even to around 1/4". Never aligned it other than with a tape measure cause it wouldn't fit on our machine at work cause of the 35" tires.
Anyway, her new axle will have hi-steer arms and we'll get a nice solid set-up then.


Corey

P.S. I would recommend something like the Currie set-up before the 1 ton set-up for anyone who drives on the street.

chadjans
11-17-2004, 03:29 AM
I was going to do the one ton setup, but under the knuckle. Getting the DL and TR closer to parallel. Would this be any better in terms of less dead spot feeling than over the knuckle?

Chad

JpRngr
11-17-2004, 04:02 PM
Actually under the knuckle will be more of an angle. If you do the 1 ton stuff, I would try and mimic the stock set-up if possible with the DL going to the knuckle and the TR attaching to the DL end. I think it might be possible if you stay under knuckle. If I remember correctly, we couldn't do it over the knuckle cause the TRE with the hole in it has a slight bend that puts the DL too close to the axle housing.


Corey


BTW, nice thread jacking we're doing!! :lol:

nathaniel
11-17-2004, 11:45 PM
I've never thought about attaching that way. It would basically be the inverted y with one ton stuff. I'll have to take a look and see what would have to be done to change it this way.

Sway bar mounts would most likely have to be completely redone again:(



Actually under the knuckle will be more of an angle. If you do the 1 ton stuff, I would try and mimic the stock set-up if possible with the DL going to the knuckle and the TR attaching to the DL end. I think it might be possible if you stay under knuckle. If I remember correctly, we couldn't do it over the knuckle cause the TRE with the hole in it has a slight bend that puts the DL too close to the axle housing.


Corey


BTW, nice thread jacking we're doing!! :lol:

Jim311
11-18-2004, 02:12 AM
Jack away! :shock:




Nothing wrong with a little tech in the HD steering thread ;)

Jcbzj
11-26-2004, 01:28 AM
I almost went with the Currie system, but ended up going with the Poison Spyder steering. Its beefy as hell, im running PSC shit with a V8 DL and havent had any problems with it. Only thing that sucks is both the threads are left hand, so you have to drop one side of the tie rod to align it

OverkillZJ
11-26-2004, 01:08 PM
I almost went with the Currie system, but ended up going with the Poison Spyder steering. Its beefy as hell, im running PSC shit with a V8 DL and havent had any problems with it. Only thing that sucks is both the threads are left hand, so you have to drop one side of the tie rod to align it

That's a good stystem, and you don't knock it out of whack as easily with those two left handed threads.

Only thing I didn't like about it was that you kept the stock drag link, and welded a gusset over it. I know that know one running the PS system has had a problem with that gusset on, but since I'd killed two drag links arms arleady, I just decided to go Currie.

I think both are damn nice for bolt ons though.

nate
11-27-2004, 05:05 PM
Does Posion Spider have a website?

Jim311
11-27-2004, 07:43 PM
Yup, but you spell it funny.



www.poisonspyder.com should work for ya. I don't really like their setup because it retains the stock drag link.

chadjans
11-27-2004, 08:50 PM
The drag link is a weak link. Ask Trango and KevinF about theirs...

Chad

Jim311
11-27-2004, 08:56 PM
The drag link is a weak link. Ask Trango and KevinF about theirs...

Chad


Yeah, it really looks like it's weak to me. The poison spyder setup just has a little truss that you're supposed to weld on. Looks like a bandaid fix to a major problem to me.

nate
11-28-2004, 06:01 AM
Thanks for the link.. I guess I can't spell.

In regards to the 1 ton Inverted T steering and the dead spot...
YJs run inverted T. I wonder why they don't have a dead spot?

chadjans
11-29-2004, 12:18 AM
The drag link is a weak link. Ask Trango and KevinF about theirs...

Chad


Yeah, it really looks like it's weak to me. The poison spyder setup just has a little truss that you're supposed to weld on. Looks like a bandaid fix to a major problem to me.

We bent both of theirs in the same spot going over the golden crack. They bend at the band aided area that PS sells you the guesset for. And near the adjustment coller near the pitman arm. Both of theirs bend near the coller.

Chad

JpRngr
11-29-2004, 02:11 AM
Thanks for the link.. I guess I can't spell.

In regards to the 1 ton Inverted T steering and the dead spot...
YJs run inverted T. I wonder why they don't have a dead spot?

I would bet that they DO have a dead spot that gets worse the higher you lift them. I haven't driven too many YJ's, so I couldn't tell you for sure.


Corey

nate
11-30-2004, 03:03 AM
Reason I was asking is I'm planning on building a setup used YJ parts.

Jeepinparrothead
05-22-2005, 10:23 AM
Ok Matt was this the Currie setup that you run?

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=/egnsearch.asp&N=400264


If so, I know you really like it. I assume they only make one. It is more now than what you said you paid for it, but such is my life. I have almost an iinch of rotate/play in the tie rod I think it is, I am just now learning all the steering stuff. It is the one that connects to the knuckle. The one with the sleave, I can rotate it forward almost an inch. i am getting bad Deathwobble. So i need to fix it. Got some lower adj arms comming but the steering needs to be adressed now. You said it is bolt on, right? So meaning I can do it. I do most of all of my other stuff it is just that I have never done steering. So anyway just making sure that is it before I buy it and to see if anyone thinks that this is what could be causing death wobble. I appreciate it guys.

OverkillZJ
05-22-2005, 10:39 AM
That'd be the one

Jeepinparrothead
05-22-2005, 10:56 AM
Will bad TRE cause death wobble or does death wobble ruin TREs? I assume that I am not suppose to have any rotation on the Tie-rod correct?

Jim311
05-22-2005, 10:57 AM
Yeah, if your steering components are worn out, it could certainly be the problem.

MendoZJ
05-22-2005, 03:20 PM
Ive got Currie HD steering and would highly recomend it, it is VERY strong offroad and made driving on the street better also.
http://www.puderproductions.net/Pictures/Hollister%2012-17-04/ZjDitch4.jpg