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View Full Version : ?'s on waggy front D44 install



shayzj
10-11-2004, 09:30 AM
I am picking up my new to me waggy axle tomorrow and over the winter plan to install it into the front of my ZJ. I have Clayton's arms and will probably stick with the 35" Yoko Mt's for the sole fact that I get them for $60 a piece.

I am posting here to get everyone's opinion on what route I should take with this thing. I plan on doing all the work myself so whatever advice I can receive will be helpful.

Here are some of my plans. I will probably order brackets from Clayton for $320 + shipping. He makes great stuff and I believe it will make my install alot simpler so it will justify the cost. What do you think? The only iffy part is my ability to weld the driver upper control arm mount to the cast iron pumpkin. Clayton just heats it up and migs the hell out of it so maybe I can do the same. I own a Hobart 175 mig and a Lincoln AC tombstone.

I will be running 4.56's with an ARB locker since that is what I have now and really like it.

The main reason I am asking is due to fact that this will be my first do it myself axle swap including welding and gear setup (with some help on that part) and I would like to gather all my parts and plans beforehand to make everything go as smooth as possible.

Time and money is not all that important to me. I just want to do it right the first time.

Other things to consider that I do not know alot about. Steering... which route should I go. Buy some aftermarket steering knuckles for different mounting options. I do not know what will work and what won't. All advice here will be greatly appreciated. Should I consider Hydro assist at the same time?

Trance I know you just did this but I never really got a look at your steering plus yours is probably trail only and mine will still be street driven quite frequently.

Alright let me have it!

Shay

FinlayZJ
10-11-2004, 01:24 PM
Cam, aka ATL ZJ, put a waggy 44 in his ZJ so you might want to ask him, or he may respond here.

Does Clayton weld to the diff? Or is it a truss that goes over the pumpkin like RE?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v296/FinlayZJ/RE9968.jpg

This is what i'm talking about. All of this lists at $380.00 on RE's site. I'm sure it's much cheaper else where. That way you don't have to worry about welding to cast metal.

shayzj
10-11-2004, 02:27 PM
No Clayton welds to the diff just like the factory 30. Hell if he can do it I can right :lol:

Shay

Trancezj
10-11-2004, 02:35 PM
Truss it... Replace all the wheel bearings, and spindle bearins. Space on the waggy axles is a HUGE issue. Make sure that's what you want. I feel like I wasted my time going to a 44. I've been out on it 4 times. I've broken 2 axles, and I'm not a get on the skinny pedal kinda guy. If you're trying to save a buck, you can run the waggy steering. It's over knuckle. You'll have to mill out the pitman arm. Other than that, it's ready for 3/4 ton TRE's. Also realize that shafts for those fuckers are not cheap, and do not grow on trees. You should also realize how much time and effort you're going to put into this sub par axle. Decide if that's what you want. I thought for damn sure it's what I wanted. I though I would make a 30 last longer too. Really the only thing you're gaining is a slightly bigger ring/pinion combo, thicker axle tubes(main reason I needed it), and hubs. Axle strength isn't even an issue because you've got the same U-Joints. I won't say don't do this, but just realize you're not upgrading much. I'm a hard headed stupid person. It takes a lot to convice me I was wrong. I should have listened to Cody.

Trancezj
10-11-2004, 02:36 PM
sorry, that's damn hard to read.

ATL ZJ
10-11-2004, 02:46 PM
Trance said it well. You can build your own inverted T for about $200 (reamer + TREs + tube and threaded inserts). I consider that a must. Go with new balljoints, fresh Spicer 760s, and Timken seals. Side-by-side, there is barely a noticeable difference in shaft diameter. I haven't broken a shaft but I haven't gotten on it too hard yet. Be sure to carry spare shafts and hubs and be ready to bite the bullet and upgrade to Warn shafts if you're snapping them regularly.

My 44 came with bracketed from a guy who had intended to put it under his XJ and I used Kevin's truss to end up with a front 4-link. If you plan to run anything larger than 35s in the remotely near future, a 60 might be a better idea.

LouisianaZJ
10-11-2004, 04:23 PM
mabey a hp30 out of an XJ?
that's what i have, the people here says the r&p is about the same strength as a std 44 and the only worthwhile upgrade would be a D60

Trancezj
10-11-2004, 04:30 PM
mabey a hp30 out of an XJ?
that's what i have, the people here says the r&p is about the same strength as a std 44 and the only worthwhile upgrade would be a D60
Thats not true. I wouldn't spend more than a hundred bucks or so on an entire new crap 30 setup.

shayzj
10-11-2004, 06:15 PM
Hey Atl you have any pics of your front bracket setup. I hear you Trance but I still drive mine everyday and I think it will hold up for what I use it for.

For a little background I started out with the original lo pinion 30 and stripped the teeth on that ring gear. Then I acquired a hi pinion which I have been running for the past 3 years. I have also tore the teeth up on one ring and pinion and various other loose pinion problems. I have only destroyed one shaft and that was due to one hellacious stuck in a thick ice covered mudhole that also broke my winch cable. So almost all of my problems have been ring and pinion related. Thus my desire for a bigger one. Get my drift? Also the axle is purchased and I want to stay with close to stock width.

Keep all the help and opinions coming.

Shay

ATL ZJ
10-11-2004, 07:28 PM
IMO, hp30s really are not worth whatever money you would spend on them. And definitely not the time. The ring and pinion also aren't usually the problem. A dana 30 is a dana 30. You're still going to be breaking shafts, which is the reason for upgrading in the first place. Might as well have something strong (d60) or at least an axle that can have the hubs be the weak point (d44).

<edit> I looked back over Shay's post regarding his bashing of ring gears... Most of the time the shafts are what goes, even though a R&P can as well, especially with lower gears. </edit>

Shay, unfortunately this is the best picture I have of my bracket setup. I've got more, but they're in the camera that's at my house rather than here at school.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v125/atlzj/DCP_0463.jpg

shayzj
10-15-2004, 01:05 AM
Any other opinions on which way to go with this project?

Shay

nathaniel
10-15-2004, 09:37 AM
Any other opinions on which way to go with this project?

Shay

If you already have it put it in and if you dont like it sell it off for a nice profit and get a 60 just dont dump a lot of money in it.