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View Full Version : D70 Build Up (Write-Up) and Discussion



Kraqa
09-22-2004, 12:09 AM
OK, here it go's.

The axle is from a 1993 dodge D600 dually.

3 Ton
~67" wide
35 spline 1.5" shafts
4.56 gears
Open Carrier
8 lugs
full floater

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/35splineAxleShaft.jpg

I didn't take any pics of the axle when i first got it so the pics jump right into the shaving part. There is a huge lip on the bottom side of the housing from the factory that I decided to remove for clearance sake.
So this is what i lined out for removal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/HousingShave.jpg
I used a zip disk on a angle grinder and some sanding pads to smooth it out. Went very quick.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/HousingShavedandCleaned.jpg
Another from the backside
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/HousingShaved.jpg
here is a pic of the current D70 i have running right now to compare the lip
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Suspension/DSC01085.jpg


Now that that is all taken care of it is time to address the hubs. it is a full floater so the lock nuts will have to come off first.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Disassemblelocknutone.jpg
i used a punch and a hammer to hit the nuts off since i didn't have the socket for it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Disassemblelockretainerring.jpg
once the ring is out there is a second nut you must remove
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Disassemblelocknuttwo.jpg
now that that is removed it will look like this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Disassemblelocknutsgone.jpg

Pull off the hub and your left with the spindle and the drum break backing plate. I will be swapping disks on this so the backing plate will have to come off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Disassembledrumbackingplate.jpg

Once that is removed you'll repeat the procedure on the other side and it should look like this

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Axlecleaned.jpg

at this time i cut off the leaf spring mounts. I didn't take a pic of this because i got carried away and plus that is a very easy step i figured that it is self-explanatory.

Now I’ll come back to the hubs when I address the disk brake swap. For now I’m off to make spring perch’s.

I used 6" of C3 structural channel with 1-1/4" of 2-3/4" SCH40 pipe and a piece of 1/4" plate (for the spring retainer

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/SpringPerchunassembled.jpg

welded the pipe onto the C3

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/SpringPerchassembled.jpg

Then laid out my spring mount location. The piece of tape is to mark the centerline of the axle (the right side of the tape is center) then I marked 21" from center on both sides

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/SpringPerchLocations.jpg

Then marked 3" on either side of each mark

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/SpringPerchLocations1.jpg

Then set the pinion angle to where i wanted it and clamped the spring perch in place making sure it was level.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/SpringPerchLelev.jpg

Then weld her up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/SpringPerchInstalled.jpg

This is a pic with the spring retainer in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/SpringPerchFinalassembled.jpg


This is all i have done so far i'm in the process of making a bomp proof dif-cover i will outline that in the next few days.

Alaska ZJ
09-22-2004, 09:02 AM
I was going to post this exact build up. lol. Guess I won't now.

A couple things. First the OUTER nut is the Lock (retaining) nut and the inner nut is the compression (preload) nut. Simple vernacular mix up no big deal.

Second is a suggestion. Thread the nuts back onto the spindle when your housing is sitting bare like that. Trust me having to file the threads straight because you knocked it off the jack stands is a real bitch. Plus you won't lose those nuts.

Why are you swapping 70's?

My axles are out of a dodge D600 as well. BEEFY.

gearhead313
09-22-2004, 09:30 AM
i was going to say jesis gawd, is it really necessary to go with a D70....but then i think, what im i talking about...I need a d70!!! rock on!

deadman
09-22-2004, 10:16 AM
Haha great a D70 writeup!

I am on a hunt for a D60/D70 combo right now, and will start working on it as soon as I find em. This stuff will help me bigtime.

Kraqa
09-22-2004, 11:04 AM
Alaska,

thanks for the input. i will change the write up to clarify the second nut. If you want to add any more info to this write up as i go t along your more then welcome. the more info the better.

I'm swappin 70's because i like to be able to drive like a but and not worrey about breaking axles. i started with a ford 9" a while back built that and got a 70 for free so i had to puit it in. then i found out that i couldn't get any parts for it. so i got this for 100 CDN and i thought that was a steal. I know I know i said i don't liek breaking things and i'm only runiing a D44 front end. that will be a whole other write up at a later date. it will soon be a D60.

and besides why not run a 70, the right price the right time?? i love it. super beef.

are you going to shave and plate the bottom of yours?? if so please send me pics and some details. i would love to see it how you did it. there is not very much room under the ring gear.

I shoul be putting this axle i nthis weekend. i hope. the dif cover wont be done till mid next week. i'l keep you all posted.

deadman
09-22-2004, 11:59 AM
then i found out that i couldn't get any parts for it.

How come? Is there a wierd ass 70 I should be aware of?

BTW... Does anybody know what trucks came with a D70U?

Kraqa
09-22-2004, 12:05 PM
stay away from the pre 1977 models especially the 23 spline ones. For most of them they stopped making gears in the late 80's and there is VERy few companies that make shafts for them

Alaska ZJ
09-23-2004, 09:23 AM
I cut off about what you did. Clearence is nice but where I "usually wheel" it is not all that important. Dependability is though and after hearing all the horror stories of not betting the rear to seal up I have decided that I will only go so far.

ATL ZJ
09-23-2004, 09:43 AM
Very nice writeup. Looks real clean so far, and makes me wish I'd gone with a D70 instead of the axles I'm running now. Oh well, later on down the road I guess.

Kraqa
09-23-2004, 12:20 PM
ya there really isn't that much materials to be shaved-off once you plate the bottom with something worthy of beeting. plus you would only gain about 3/8" more ground clearance. and for the threat of not being able to seal. the dificulty of welding cast and the work involved i don't think i'l be doing to much modifications to the housing.

chadjans
09-24-2004, 03:49 AM
I don't see a 14b on your poll.

Kraqa
09-24-2004, 01:00 PM
ya well i tryed to go with the axle i was doing and the most popular to swap into the ZJ's. that would be covered by other. and then i tryed to put a option for "who doesn't give a fuck" but it wouldn't let me type that.

Kraqa
09-24-2004, 10:51 PM
well i found out what makes this axle a 3 ton and my other d70 a 1.5 ton. the only difrence is in the hubs and bearings. both are rated at 3000 lb but it is the hubs that make the difrence and the type and size of hub bearings that allow it to handle the bigger loads.

deadman
09-25-2004, 05:00 AM
I don't see a 14b on your poll.

Why would you want a 14b over a D70?

Tell me if I am wrong, but what I remember from reading was that they are about the same size... so no wheight saving for the 14b.

The D70 is supposed to be slightly stronger... even so I remember a lot of argueing about this.

You have more gearing options with the D70.

Kraqa
09-25-2004, 03:43 PM
the only reason i would want a 14 bolt is that they have the third pnion bearing like the ford 9". now if the 70 had that that would be freekin sweet.

Alaska ZJ
09-25-2004, 07:54 PM
And the 70 does not hang down so God aweful low.

If you get a D70U it is smmmmmooooth on the bottom.

chadjans
09-25-2004, 11:35 PM
I don't see a 14b on your poll.

Why would you want a 14b over a D70?

Tell me if I am wrong, but what I remember from reading was that they are about the same size... so no wheight saving for the 14b.

The D70 is supposed to be slightly stronger... even so I remember a lot of argueing about this.

You have more gearing options with the D70.

Because they are cheaper than a 70 unless you get one for free, second pinon support and a two piece carrier. Who cares about gearing. What are you going to do drive your rig on the street. Get some 5.13's and spend money on the tcase.

Chad

Kraqa
09-26-2004, 03:25 PM
both 70's that i have are 2 peice carriers. and its real nice going to a wrecker and buying 4.56 and lower gears for super cheep. they came stock with up to 7.17 gears.

Kraqa
09-26-2004, 03:34 PM
Here is some axle tube information.

http://www.4x4help.com/axle/pics/tube_thickness.gif

*Information Courtesy Of: Four Wheeler, Jan 1999

Kraqa
10-16-2004, 02:20 PM
Ok wells it’s been a while since I have had time to sit down and post more information but here is go's:

Here is the side-to-side comparison of the 23 spline Vs. 35 spline shafts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/23splineVS35.jpg
They are very similar in size both around 1.5"

Next I moved on to welding on my LCA brackets, I used the same technique as welding on the spring perches, mark from center, set the pinion angle and then welding them on level.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/LCAb.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Sidev.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Sidev1.jpg

The 4-link truss was welded on he same as the LCA brackets. And then the top was leveled off and copped so that I can weld on the UCA brackets

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/back.jpg

Next the UCA brackets are going to be welded to the truss. I don't have a pic of this so I’m going to use a pic from later on in the build up to show it on there. (Sorry)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/hubsonnobrakes.jpg

Then it is on to the hub reassembly and disk brakes.
Clean the hub with a wire wheel and degrease the interior to get all the old grease out.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Barehub.jpg

Then the rotor is from a 79 F250 front d44, it is meant for 9/16 studs, the d70 I have has 5/8" studs so the holes have to be drilled out to fit the larger size. I wanted to stick with the 9/16" studs so that it matches my front axle so I had to get some adapting studs from the parts store. They are approx 5/8" at the top where it holds the rotor and presses into the hub but 9/16" threads. Standard Papco "D" style stud with the part extension 469.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/disk.jpg
I loosely placed in all the studs and then preceded the tedious work of pounding each stud in with a hammer. In a criss/cross pattern to make sure it seats properly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/diskandlugs.jpg
Next its on to the bearings.

First the inner hub bearing
This axle is a 1 ton axle but in a three ton truck. So the hub bearings are freekin huge, twice the size of my 1.5-ton hub bearings that were in my old d70. The hub construction is way beefier in this one too.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/3toninnerbrearing.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/bearingagain.jpg

So pack it nicely with grease and drop it into place.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/bearinginplace.jpg

Then on to the inner hub seal. Make sure to put a small amount of grease on the inner rubber flap to help it seal/lubricate it self as it slides into place.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/seal.jpg
then press it into place.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/sealinplace.jpg

Once this is done your ready to install the hub on the axle with the same procedures as the removal covered in the beginning of this thread. Here is a pick of the outer bearing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/outerbearing.jpg

And both hubs in place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/hubsonnobrakes.jpg

Now its time to weld on the dick brake brackets. I had made these brackets for my old d70 and I don't have any pics of how I made them but I just cut them off the old axle and cleaned em up....a bit. I actually only cleaned the paint off them where I was going to weld I didn't strip the whole thing.

Here they are still attached to the caddy calipers. Anyone notice that the homemade e-brake lever is on upside down???? Maybe that’s why my e-brake never worked!!!! Man do I feel stupid. I fixed that now tho.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/theoldbraket.jpg

I set the whole caliper on the bracket over the rotor and used old zip disk (approx 1/16") as a spacer between the inside pad and the rotor. Then very sparingly tacked it in place. It is very important to tack the bracket from the inside facing the hub so the heat will pull the bracket toward the spacer and rotor. If you don’t it will pull the bracket away from the rotor not utilizing the spacer you have and making your brakes not work right.
Then pull the calipers and the hubs off and brace the bracket.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/braced.jpg

Make sure to cover your spindle with something that won’t let the spatter burn through and ruin the surface on your bearing seats. That could potencially ruin your axle.

Then weld her up!!!!.

The finished product will look like this

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/braketson.jpg

Time for paint. I ran out of jack stands because my old d70 was sitting on it so I had to use a spring to prop it in place.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/firstcoat.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/firstcoatofpaint.jpg

Now I forgot to do this before I painted the axle but it still worked out ok, I had to weld up the breather hole (the 4-link truss was covering it) so i got a 7/16" drill bit and a tapered 1/4" NPT tab then drilled and tapped my housing.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/breatherholetap.jpg
Then fit in an air fitting quick disconnect.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/airfittingbreatherhoze.jpg
I’m going to use one of those coiled air lines for a breather hose.

Once everything is dry, put the carrier back in. reassemble the brakes as outlined above. Put in your shafts, bolt on your cover and run your brakes lines. I used the old ones from the previous axle.

Bling Bling!!!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/blingbling.jpg

Time for re-installation in the vehicle.

Oh wait...but first, since the axle isn't under the vehicle yet i figured it would be a great time to make some more room in my fenders for where the tires kept rubbing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/side.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/innerfenderbefor.jpg

i could use some sort of sophisticated cutting device but I chose a more accurate measure of fender manipulation.

A calibrated pound-O-meter set on 9 pounds.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/Calibratedpound-o-meter.jpg

I started swinging and ended up with this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/innerfenderafter.jpg

Got my self a can of undercoating (made in Canada http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/thefinger.gif)
And touched it up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/madeincanada.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/afterpaint.jpg


Well if you've noticed I didn't mention anything about shocks. I was going to see if I had enough room with the new 4-link truss to do triangulated shocks but I didn't. My rear shocks are too long. Maybe another day I’l buy shorter ones. so I welded the shock mounts on after the axle was installed.

before shocks mounts welded on
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/noshoksyet.jpg

after shocks mounts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Kraqa/inthetruck.jpg

Well now its done. The wider rear stance is great. My old d70 was only 64-1/2" wide this is 67. And the new slimmer 4-link truss will make it allot easier to try and fit exhaust.

I hope this inspires more people to start looking into alternative swaps then the 8.8 and ford 9". There is so many more axles out there with tons of options.

OverkillZJ
10-16-2004, 04:05 PM
Those mudflaps are FUCKING AWESOME and nothing short of it.

Good work!

Kraqa
10-16-2004, 04:06 PM
the flares and flaps are removable for when i got off road but for now since it is a daily driver i have to keep it legal.

LouisianaZJ
10-16-2004, 11:23 PM
how heavy is that fawkin axle? :D

robselina
10-17-2004, 12:03 AM
I don't see a 14b on your poll.

Yea, I'm a 14B fan too. I can get them for $50 all day long with 4.10s and 4.56s, if I ever need more beef than the D60 in the waggy, it'll be getting a 14 bolt. Not saying D70s aren't cool or anything, but for what you can buy 14 bolts for, and how freakin' beefy they are, I see no reason for anything bigger...

Kraqa
10-17-2004, 04:29 AM
i think around 400lb or so maybe more i know i lost bout 65lb going to disk brakes.

ATL ZJ
10-17-2004, 10:42 AM
What's with the newspaper under the Jeep in both those pics? Oil leak? :lol:

Cody
10-17-2004, 01:42 PM
the only reason i would want a 14 bolt is that they have the third pnion bearing like the ford 9". now if the 70 had that that would be freekin sweet.


bingo.

At any rate, what you are telling me is that this axle is rated to be stronger than a rockwell?

nice write up. Obvioulsy there are more desireable axles than a d70, but it has the same lure as as 14 bolt---dirt cheap and bomb proof.

When I build my rear axle, I think I'm going to go to a custom 35 spline 9". Depending on the cash I have, it'll be custom housing, nodular 3rd, nascar pinion support, billet spool (only thing available for a 35 spline) and some 35 spline alloys. I may jump to the 40 spline stuff but I really don't invision myself breaking the 35 spline shaft---especially since I can't break the 31 spline stuff I have now.

Cody

Kraqa
10-17-2004, 03:03 PM
hey cody,


the axle is a 1 ton axle, but its rated for 3 tons, and the only difrence between this "3 ton" d70 and the other "1.5 ton" or any other d70 is the hub design and inner hub bearings. the way i see it. dana build a tank and called it a 1 ton then decided it was way over build for a 1 ton application so beefed up the hubs and bearings and through it in some 1.5 ton and 3 ton applications. there is no difrence in the housings.

hey ALT.

my tranny input seal leaks. fucking 42RE. thats next on my on going list of things to tear out and replace with something alot better.

Cody
10-17-2004, 05:15 PM
How wide is it going to be after it's all set up? Thats going to be a burly ZJ once it's finished.

I want to build something this winter, but unless I find a buyer for my rig complete, it's just not going to happen.

I've been kinda tossing around the idea of building a stock-mod rig with a little v6, toy axles w/ superbirfs, and 37's. I can't imagine breaking those superbirfs on a 2800 lb rig with a little 6 banger. I want to start competing....

I'm thinking 104 wb, 76" wide outside to outside, 1 rear seat.....WJ skins...

Someone buy my rig! $7500 as is :D

Cody

Kraqa
10-17-2004, 08:10 PM
the wheel base is 110" and the width is 84"

rear dif clearance is 11-1/4"
front dif clearance is 12-3/4"

tires measure 37-3/8"

if i was going to build a hibride axle i would use the 35 splin d70 shafts with the 70 hubs and spindles on a ford 9". that would ne a deadly combo. but i think this will be enough to get me through anything i point at it. the front will definatly have to be changed to a 60 tho. i plan on going bigger then 38's. i'm aiming for 42 in the futur. but this should be good for a year or so. i can finally start concentrating on my cage.

OverkillZJ
10-17-2004, 10:02 PM
How wide is it going to be after it's all set up? Thats going

Someone buy my rig! $7500 as is :D

Cody

Like I said, if you told me that at GSW, I would've towed it home :)

Kraqa
10-18-2004, 10:43 AM
thats pritty cheep for whatyour getting. although if your in the market for a ZJ......well there not really much ZJ your getting with that.

Kraqa
10-24-2004, 03:18 PM
should this not be moved to the write-up section???

nate
11-17-2005, 12:28 AM
It's weird the D70 comes in so many versions. My truck is a 3/4 ton and it's got a D60 in the front and D70 in the back.

I don't have 2 nuts and the locking ring on mine. It's just 1 nut and a keeper clip

Kraqa
11-17-2005, 12:37 AM
ya htere are tons of versions. it can be tricky to get the correct parts if you dont' knwo what year.

Tommy
11-20-2005, 12:37 AM
ya htere are tons of versions. it can be tricky to get the correct parts if you dont' knwo what year.

Tell me about it... Now from experience.

Krash80
12-06-2005, 03:06 AM
Just to add to this discussion about the 14b vs. the D70.... one thing that wasn't mentioned is that the 14b gears are FAR easier to install/set-up than those on a typical dana axle. The 14b carrier has side adjusters so that shims are not necessary...once the bearings are pressed on the carrier, they stay on. The 14b also has a removable pinion housing...not really sure if it's much of and advantage, but it also helps make the gear installation much easier.

Either way, I don't think you can go wrong with either a 70 or a 14b. Nice writeup Kris.

-Ron-

Kraqa
02-11-2006, 02:37 AM
the 14 bolt definatly had TONS of though put into its design and that will always be on the top of my list.

Airmanwoody
03-28-2006, 12:32 AM
I love this setup. I hope to do a custom 14 bolt next winter. Probably going to shave it down so I retain stock width and go with a HP30/HP44 or D60 up front, eventually anyway. Nice rig.

nate
08-02-2006, 09:43 PM
Wierd. This thread shows posted in today, but the last post was 27 Mar 06.

Anyhow... the D70 is better than the 14bolt when it comes to gear selection. 14 bolt can go up to 5.38, where the D70, you can do up to 7.17