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View Full Version : Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (CCC) (From the OLD JU)



JeepinHank
08-25-2004, 03:51 PM
This is the Moparman (from JU) method of cleaning out carbon build-up from your engine. I found the JU search useless, but, luckily I made a copy and saved it many moons ago. Enjoy:
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Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner
(Cleaning carbon build-up from engine)

Parts Needed:
2 cans of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (available at local Chrysler dealer...7 bucks a can)
New set of spark plugs(optional)
Correct amount of new engine oil
New oil filter
Toothbrush
Clean rag
Long thin tube(I bought a funnel that came with a long thin tube connected to it at Pep Boys...will come in handy in step 2)

NOTE: Total time should be 45 to 60 minutes. This includes waiting time.
I recommend doing this at the time of your next oil change only because I advise changing engine oil and filter afterwards.
Also, before doing anything, a good idea is to first loosen up the spark plugs and then re-tighten them back ONLY to a snug fit(not too tight). This will make life a lot easier when removing the spark plugs in step 2.

1). Cleaning off carbon from combustion chamber and valves:
Start the engine and let it idle or take the Jeep out for a drive until it reaches normal operating temperature(engine should be hot). Turn off engine. Remove the air hose from the throttle body. With engine OFF, spray some Mopar CCC onto throttle plate(not too much) and linkage and clean off carbon using a small tooth brush(make sure you clean the bottom of the throttle plate also). Wipe off dissolved carbon with clean rag……should shine like new. Start the engine(make sure it's hot) and spray the entire can of Mopar CCC into the throttle body….the intake manifold vacuum will suck it in. You may have smoke coming out of the tailpipe during this, and your idle may drop or even try to stall…..this is normal. It’s important NOT to rev the engine during this but to keep a steady idle around 1000-1200 RPM by controlling the idle with your hand on the throttle body spring pack(a glove may come in handy since the throttle spring pack may be hot). When can is empty, shut off the engine immediately. Reconnect the air hose to the throttle body. Proceed to step 2.


2). De-gumming the piston rings:
Remove the spark plugs and spray a can of Mopar CCC(divided evenly) into the cylinders through the open spark plug holes. If you have trouble spraying into one of the plug holes, try using a funnel or small tube to guide the cleaner into the plug hole or else try to aim as best you could. Reinstall plugs then give the engine a couple of quick cranks to mix up the cleaner(don't try to start the engine). Wait 20-30 minutes then remove the spark plugs. Crank the engine over a couple of times again to eject any excess cleaner out of the open plug holes to help prevent possible hydro-lock. Might be a bit messy but important. Reinstall original plugs. Start the engine(may need to fire it up a few times) and DO NOT let it just sit and idle or else the carbon will just re-cook in your engine. Rather, rev the engine to 3000-3500 RPM's 10-15 times. Again, don't be surprised if you see a lot of smoke...it's normal. Take the Jeep out and drive the heck out of it for a few minutes. This will do a good job of cleaning out any excess carbon from the engine. Oh, and of course rids the neighborhood of any bugs or mosquitoes if smoke happens to still flow out your tailpipes...that's the best part.
3). Install new spark plugs if you decided to get a new set. Change engine oil and filter since the cleaner may have passed by the piston rings.
*Result...Clean throttle body, intake manifold, valves, combustion chamber, piston and piston rings.
*Bonus*...NO MORE PINGING.

BigDaveZJ
08-25-2004, 04:57 PM
Good call bringing that over here! Figured this would the best forum for it though.

JeepinHank
08-25-2004, 06:06 PM
Glad I could be of help!

You want me to just shoot you a PM from now on?

Alaska ZJ
08-25-2004, 07:28 PM
no need to PM. Just post it. All of the moderators are active enough to move it to the nessecary place if you happen to post in the wrong forum.

Thanks man I was just thinking about doing this again (did it 100k ago)

BigDaveZJ
08-25-2004, 07:30 PM
You want me to just shoot you a PM from now on?

If you've got something you think should be in the FAQ forum, post it up!

robselina
08-25-2004, 11:00 PM
Reinstall plugs then give the engine a couple of quick cranks to mix up the cleaner(don't try to start the engine). Wait 20-30 minutes then remove the spark plugs. Crank the engine over a couple of times again to eject any excess cleaner out of the open plug holes to help prevent possible hydro-lock.

I dunno about that...it sounds like you guys have used this method successfully before, but the idea of cranking over the engine, even a little, with fluid in the chambers doesn't exactly sound like a good idea to me....since the engine is supposed to be hot, does this stuff vaporize in there?

I hydro-locked an engine once. It was an expensive mistake I only had to learn once, don't want to go there again....(I stay the @#$#@ away from mud and water for the most part now)

JpRngr
08-26-2004, 01:39 AM
By quick cranks, I think he meant bumps. Nothing more than half a revolution or so. Don't hook up your plug wires and it won't start.


Corey

robselina
08-26-2004, 10:35 AM
By quick cranks, I think he meant bumps. Nothing more than half a revolution or so. Don't hook up your plug wires and it won't start.


Corey

yea, but its still trying to compress fluid, regardless of how much you turn it or if the plugs are connected....

JeepinHank
08-26-2004, 11:49 AM
I don't really think its all that much fluid. The stuff vaporizes pretty quickly, and when you divide that can among 6 cylinders, I wouldn't think its much more fluid than the fuel injector puts in there.

With hydrolock - the entire volume of the cylinder that would normally be filled with air is filled with water (or at least a majority of it).

JpRngr
08-26-2004, 03:29 PM
Even if it fills the cylinder up quite a bit, bumping the starter over a little bit at a time shouldn't hurt it. You shouldn't be spinning it enough to force a problem. I, too, have hydro-locked an engine and had to rebuild it after bending a rod, so, I'm leary also. But, I don't see this as being a problem, unless YOU make it a problem.


Corey

Jim311
08-27-2004, 08:57 PM
Thanks for posting this Hank

8)

BrodyZJ
08-31-2004, 03:05 PM
I'm gonna give it a try this week thanks for the post :D

BrodyZJ
09-13-2004, 01:52 PM
Well I did the CCC on sat. added new plugs and cleaned and oiled the K&N. It has definately breathed a little life into the 4.0, not like hp gains just a smoother accel/idle and some improved mpgs(normal hwy to work was avg 18mpg now 20-21mpg, in the two days). Will do again down the road. Thanks again.

Texas ZJ1
03-30-2005, 04:40 PM
I bought myself some yesterday. I probably do it every six to eight months.

Hunter

TrojanMan
03-31-2005, 03:15 PM
Found a better way to do it. BTW seafoam = mopar CCC.

Put a piece of rubber hose on the vacuum port on the intake manifold that is plugged off (its towards the front, on the top of the manifold). Stick the hose in the can about halfway. The engine will suck it is on its own, but have a buddy keep the throttle up. When half the can is gone remove the vacuum line going to the master cylinder and stick the hose on that port. Put the other half of the can into that side. Doing this allows more carbon build up to be cleaned, as it is going in from each side rather than directly in the middle. :partyman:

scotch hanneman
05-19-2008, 08:24 PM
I work at a jeep/volkswagon stealership and that stuff is awesome!!! We remove plugs and fill all of the cylinders up than spray everything else into the t-body. Let sit over night than crank the engine in morning with no plugs in it. Re install new plugs than look out for the smoke, let idle for 30 or so min. than road test for a mile or so till the smoke stops. A fantastic product I have tried most brands and that is my favorite by far!

cavaliers1323
12-12-2008, 11:44 PM
I know this threads old, but just use hot water. It does just as good of a job, and its free. Just get a spray bottle and mist it in the intake. Oldest trick in the book!

rightaway
02-06-2009, 10:08 AM
is mccc same as seafoam?

ZJ TINS
02-06-2009, 01:44 PM
Also BG44k or the other BG product

quadratokn
09-30-2009, 03:10 PM
is mccc same as seafoam?
Its mostly all petroleum, but the extra 1% (or some small amount) of different ingredients are apparently designed for the Mopar sensors.

clemsonZJ95
01-01-2010, 03:59 PM
same thing as seafoam.

dp96zj
01-01-2010, 07:02 PM
this must be one of those threads that just can't die lol

OverkillZJ
05-01-2011, 02:27 PM
Bringing this back from the dead, because i'm about to do this on the 5.9 for her yearly tuneup! First wheeling trip in 5 days. Wheelin' season is here!

Jeeptech01
05-02-2011, 07:55 AM
I use it as a last resort on engines with leaky unseating valves 75% success rate. It really works.

moparrr07
05-04-2011, 10:37 AM
also thing that work amazingly

-gm top engine cleaner-
-mix of 50-50 water and atf-(seriously works just as good)

suck the bottle up by an engine vacuum tube with engine running(obviously not quick enough to hydro lock the engine, duh), shut off immediately, let it sit for 15-20 minutes, start the engine and take off down the road at full throttle... watch the smoke and carbon fly

this is the method cadillac dealers use to get rid of all the buildup of carbon in the big caddy engines that grandma has never taken part 1/4 throttle