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AprilzWarrior
07-07-2004, 08:59 PM
Installing a Ford 8.8 axle into a Jeep Grand Cherokee


Started by stripping off the 8.8s leaf spring brackets
http://fototime.com/04599E027F5BB1D/standard.jpg

Stripping down the tubes to get them as clean as possible.
http://fototime.com/92A2628ADC0A8BB/standard.jpg

I Ground down the housing & TIG welded the tubes completely...
http://fototime.com/0F5DA56B59DDE09/standard.jpg

I set the pinion at 11* and the Spring Perches 0*
http://fototime.com/FB94C5DB653C4EC/standard.jpg

Spring Perch welded...
http://fototime.com/B18E459E624F594/standard.jpg

UCA Supported and welded with 3/16” plate for gussets to keep them from twisting or bending under stress.
http://fototime.com/04E6B713929567C/standard.jpg

Hammerite Paint found at Home Depot, I used 2 cans.
http://fototime.com/89B65C1F5DD79AE/standard.jpg
http://fototime.com/5A1ED277512A747/standard.jpg


Since I had a new axle assembly, the caliper and rotors came with it, but not the brake lines. I picked up an extended rear brake line from a Rubicon Express vendor, P/N RE1515 and I purchased a Ford Explorer disc brake conversion hose kit from Currie Enterprises, P/N 6013, it comes with hoses, banjo bolts, and weld on retaining clips to hold the end of the line in place on the axle tubes. From here I hand bent all of my brake lines down the tubes and over the Center section. You will also need the adapter flange for the Drive shaft to the Pinion Spicer P/N 2-2-1379. Flange bolts are also needed which are 12mm x 1.75 thread 12 point, Ford P/N N800594-S100, or go down the OSH and pick them up in grade 8.

The 8.8 is 5/8” narrower per side than the D35C, so I ordered Wheel Studs from ARP.
http://fototime.com/2C3E0D6D8DE8822/standard.jpg
http://fototime.com/72AA8944DC52E2E/standard.jpg
These studs are too long and to be cut down about 3/8“ to get the correct length with a 5/8“Aluminum wheel spacer. The Knurl is also a hair to big to fit into the 31spline shafts, I put the bolts into a drill press to spin them much like a lathe and took a file to the Knurl, you must be careful here as to not take the knurl down to small, ideally you want the knurl .005” larger than the hole its going into for a nice pressed fit. Pull the cross shaft out of the carrier and push the axle shafts into the center and pull each ones C-clip, then slide each shaft out. I took the shaft to a vise and knocked out the factory bolts with a hammer, once the knurl is turned down hammer them into the shafts completely to seat them, you could also use a lug nut and an impact to pull the stud into its seat.

Once the studs are in reinstall the axles, C-clips and Cross shaft. Reinstall the Rotors and now for the spacers.
http://fototime.com/7BCB55947B1CAB7/standard.jpg
http://fototime.com/E0823BB5FA81027/standard.jpg

Finally I put the wheels and tires back on, and torque them down, then I took an angle cut off wheel and knocked off the ends of the studs easily.
http://fototime.com/5FCC774FF8E1350/standard.jpg


After thoughts,
This is the best MOD to my Jeep YET. The 35C leaves you so unsettled when wheeling its not even funny. Knowing what I have out back and let me enjoy myself much more off-road.
http://fototime.com/2DC154A76DEEAF8/standard.jpg
http://fototime.com/35474548D449714/standard.jpg

Thanks for viewing…

AprilzWarrior

Links:
Spacers: http://www.stagewest4x4.com/
Studs: http://www.arp-bolts.com/
8.8: http://www.arielgears.com/
Locker/Gears: http://www.ring-pinion.com/
Brake Parts:
http://alljeepproducts.com/
http://www.currieenterprises.com/

robselina
08-12-2004, 01:44 PM
when you omit the rear ABS sensors, does the ABS sensor come on? check engine light? I assume the front still operates normally?

BigDaveZJ
08-12-2004, 01:50 PM
As soon as you get rid of any ABS sensor you lose ABS completely.

robselina
08-12-2004, 03:29 PM
As soon as you get rid of any ABS sensor you lose ABS completely.

cool. I don't really care, it's a POS system anyway.

The stupid ABS light on all the time then? (might have to disconnect that thing, it'll drive me nuts!)

MaineZJ
08-12-2004, 04:43 PM
Seen lots of people put 8.8's in the grands and TJ's.
Just wondering why they are so great? Why not use 44's or 9's

Any place of reference to find one with disc's and 3.73's

BigDaveZJ
08-12-2004, 04:45 PM
It's more convienent than a 9" because the width is very similar.

It's also ever so slightly stronger than a 44, and can usually be obtained cheaper. Ever priced an XJ or TJ 44? :shock: I paid 1/3 to 1/2 for my 8.8 as what I see XJ and TJ 44's go for.

robselina
08-12-2004, 05:59 PM
Seen lots of people put 8.8's in the grands and TJ's.
Just wondering why they are so great? Why not use 44's or 9's

Any place of reference to find one with disc's and 3.73's

They're close to right length for starters, only 1" narrower than stock. They're also plentiful and the right bolt pattern. Not many narrow 9" axles were made, and they're priced as if they were made out of gold. D44s out of TJs and XJs are fawkin' expensive, and these are 31 vs 30 spline and larger pinion (weak link on D44) so it's a better deal. you can also get them with discs which is cool....short version is that they're the right size, strong, cheap and plentiful.


as for 3.73s and discs, discs are stock on all explorer variants from 96 and up. 3.73s are the standard ratio too, though there are other options...

AprilzWarrior
08-12-2004, 08:19 PM
1 1/4" Narrower than the stock 35C


Hence I added 5/8" spacers to each side.


HTH
AW

Swamp boy
08-12-2004, 10:51 PM
Pulling the ABS Fuse and Relay will get the light to go off...


AW.. Did you have rear disk already ? If not did you change the proportioning valve? Just wondering...

Oh and Nice work..

Carl

AprilzWarrior
08-12-2004, 11:25 PM
Carl,
I already had disks... but I have done the Drum Disk swap on a ZJ. Some dude who wanted a better 35C :lol:

why ? :?:
Got a question :?: :wink:

Swamp boy
08-13-2004, 02:09 AM
Well... SInce I have disk now... If I put a drum 8.8 on will I need to change my proportioning valve or would it be ok? I already have some stuff ordered to do the disk swap on this 8.8 so I guess it doesnt really matter..
But, I will be driving for a week with drums ..While waiting for the stuff from Jegs..

I know that this valve makes it bias towards the rear more than a drum brake setup does ..
I guess my real question is do you think I will have trouble stopping??
Any idea at all??

cherokeekid
08-13-2004, 12:11 PM
IIRC correctly the disc and drum ZJ used the same prop valve anyways.

AprilzWarrior
08-13-2004, 01:06 PM
IIRC correctly the disc and drum ZJ used the same prop valve anyways.


I too remember it this way. Carl, you ordered your disks from Jegs ? Shit even a D35C disks would have worked for ya.

Swamp boy
08-13-2004, 09:14 PM
I just thought it was time I spent some money on my rig other than sawzall blades and welding rods / wire.... :lol: :lol: So I ordered some nice
Wilwood stuff...
I want to look cool while I am mall crawlin....... :lol: :lol:

robselina
08-19-2004, 04:36 PM
any reason not to use steel for wheelspacers? I always see them made out of aluminum. I guess it reduces spun weight, but for a 5.8" thick 6.5" diameter rig, I'm not to worried. thoughts?

MaineZJ
08-19-2004, 07:42 PM
Aluminum is light, easy to mill and steel isn't really neseccary.

robselina
08-20-2004, 04:58 PM
Aluminum is light, easy to mill and steel isn't really neseccary.

fair enough....I was going to get 7" steel round stock, but I guess I'll spend the extra $18 for Aluminum. Crap metal is expensive lately. Just enough round stock to make both spacers is going to cost me $27! :? :x

robselina
08-26-2004, 01:01 PM
WTF - what's with the plastic diff cover? Anyone else here get one this way? Thing seems supper weak, anyone know of a good replacement for cheap?

BigDaveZJ
08-26-2004, 01:06 PM
WTF - what's with the plastic diff cover? Anyone else here get one this way? Thing seems supper weak, anyone know of a good replacement for cheap?

A PLASTIC diff cover? WTF?!?!? Mine came with a metal one, but I promptly swapped it out for a Crane cover. Not a very cheap alternative, but it's beefy as fawk and that's what I wanted. I still have the stock cover I got if you're interested.

robselina
08-26-2004, 01:14 PM
WTF - what's with the plastic diff cover? Anyone else here get one this way? Thing seems supper weak, anyone know of a good replacement for cheap?

A PLASTIC diff cover? WTF?!?!? Mine came with a metal one, but I promptly swapped it out for a Crane cover. Not a very cheap alternative, but it's beefy as fawk and that's what I wanted. I still have the stock cover I got if you're interested.

yea, I'll take you up on that Dave. The freakin cover is some sort of plastic/composite with fibers in it. At first I thought "this diff cover kicks ass" as I see that the lower lip is reinforced. At first I thought it was cast steel. Then I start prying on the thing and it's freaking chipping at the edges 'cause it's made out of some fiber crap! :?

MaineZJ
08-30-2004, 03:54 PM
Thinking of adding a bigger anchor to the rear of the Grand... $100 for an 8.8 sound like a deal?

JeepinHank
08-30-2004, 05:07 PM
Thinking of adding a bigger anchor to the rear of the Grand... $100 for an 8.8 sound like a deal?

8.8 out of an explorer? If its a mustang, be certain that its 31 spline shafts and not the others (27 spline?)
Disks or drums? Not saying an 8.8 with drums for a hundred bucks is a bad deal, but if you want disks, factor in the cost of that conversion. You may be better off looking some more and seeing what you can get one with disks for.

If its got disks already then disregard the above paragraph.

MaineZJ
08-30-2004, 05:16 PM
I PM'd the guy asking what exactly the specs are on it... just waiting now

robselina
08-30-2004, 05:36 PM
yea, sounds good to me too as long as its from an explorer. I don't give a rats ass about disks though, I think they're over-rated. The non-explorer variety are 28 spline BTW.....

MaineZJ
08-31-2004, 07:44 AM
I've still got it. It's from a Mustang (same width as an Explorer). Shouldn't matter in your application as you will need to change brackets anyway.
Same for gearing, this has 3:27, but you'll probably be changing that too.
No brakes on it. Set up for disc. Mustang, Explorer brakes will work.
31 spline with Trac Lock. And it has less than 200 miles on it.
Let me know if your interested...$100.00

robselina
08-31-2004, 01:00 PM
Mustang is 28 spline, no good :(

EDIT - guess he says 31 spline, if that's right and you don't mind regearing.....

JeepinHank
09-27-2004, 12:20 PM
How much are the 5/8" aluminum spacers?

I checked out the Stagewest site, and the only spacers I could find were 1.5" and bigger, and they were pretty dang expensive...

Are they just something you have to call them up and ask about?


Also on a semi-related subject, does anyone have a part number for the specialty U-joint that adapts the explorer 1330 yoke to the Jeep 1310 drive shaft? (1310 on one side and 1330 on the other)

I helped swap an 8.8 into my buddy's YJ this weekend and we were able to make the 1310 work enough for a test spin around the block, but for piece of mind, I know he'll want to do it right for the long term.

Nordic1
09-27-2004, 02:24 PM
I got my adapters and brackets from MORE... they have the 1310 adapter.

AprilzWarrior
10-07-2004, 11:47 PM
How much are the 5/8" aluminum spacers?

I checked out the Stagewest site, and the only spacers I could find were 1.5" and bigger, and they were pretty dang expensive...

Are they just something you have to call them up and ask about?


Also on a semi-related subject, does anyone have a part number for the specialty U-joint that adapts the explorer 1330 yoke to the Jeep 1310 drive shaft? (1310 on one side and 1330 on the other)

I helped swap an 8.8 into my buddy's YJ this weekend and we were able to make the 1310 work enough for a test spin around the block, but for piece of mind, I know he'll want to do it right for the long term.



Stagewest also does Machining, so call them and have it made.... like $40 each when I did it. Might be more now. The ones that are 1.5" and bigger have studs counter sunk into them. With the ones I got, I had to use longer wheel studs, IE removed the stock ones from the 8.8 shafts and pounded in the new ARPs...

JeepinHank
10-08-2004, 10:17 AM
Stagewest also does Machining, so call them and have it made.... like $40 each when I did it. Might be more now. The ones that are 1.5" and bigger have studs counter sunk into them. With the ones I got, I had to use longer wheel studs, IE removed the stock ones from the 8.8 shafts and pounded in the new ARPs...

Cool, that's what I was thinking. Thanks for the clarification though!

phillyzj
10-15-2004, 06:52 PM
I got my adapters and brackets from MORE... they have the 1310 adapter.

just snag a flange adaptor from a ranger. they have 1310 ujoints.

Jim311
10-31-2004, 01:05 PM
Hmm.. aren't the MORE brackets like 299? Anyone know of a cheap place to find them? I picked up a 31 spline 8.8 with discs for 200 bucks last weekend and now I'm looking into options. Should I just fab up my own instead?

MaineZJ
10-31-2004, 01:11 PM
When I swap out my turdy5 I'm either gonna fab some brackets or carefully cut off some of the stockers

Jim311
10-31-2004, 07:59 PM
When I swap out my turdy5 I'm either gonna fab some brackets or carefully cut off some of the stockers


That's what I'm thinking... it seems insane to pay 300 bucks for a set of brackets from Clayton, especially since I won't be trussing it or anything right away since I'm running shortarms. How hard could it be to cut some plate to fit? Am I missing something.. or does it seem really crazy to pay that much for it?

Kraqa
10-31-2004, 08:03 PM
it is a conveinience factor. it would take the average shad-tree mechanic a good day or so to fab them at home with hand tools. if i didn't have access to a shear drill press and plasma cutter i would much rather buy the brakets for 300.00.

Jim311
10-31-2004, 08:41 PM
I don't have access to anything but a grinder and fairly basic tools. I guess it WOULD be a lot quicker and easier to just buy them, but considering I paid 200 bucks for the ENTIRE axle, 300 for just the brackets pains me.

Z
10-31-2004, 09:22 PM
Cutting brackets off a D 35 with an angle grinder is very difficult. I tried it and gave up - I think it was the spring mounts that gave me grief due to the curve of the axle shaft. Luckily I have a friend with a plasma cutter who helped tremendously. My point is, angle grinders aren't good at getting in tight spaces.

OverkillZJ
10-31-2004, 09:52 PM
Cutting brackets off a D 35 with an angle grinder is very My point is, angle grinders aren't good at getting in tight spaces.

It's doable, but my problem is jamming the disks and shattering them, almost killing myself.

phillyzj
10-31-2004, 10:50 PM
WTF - what's with the plastic diff cover? Anyone else here get one this way? Thing seems supper weak, anyone know of a good replacement for cheap?

A PLASTIC diff cover? WTF?!?!? Mine came with a metal one, but I promptly swapped it out for a Crane cover. Not a very cheap alternative, but it's beefy as fawk and that's what I wanted. I still have the stock cover I got if you're interested.

yea, I'll take you up on that Dave. The freakin cover is some sort of plastic/composite with fibers in it. At first I thought "this diff cover kicks ass" as I see that the lower lip is reinforced. At first I thought it was cast steel. Then I start prying on the thing and it's freaking chipping at the edges 'cause it's made out of some fiber crap! :?

Hey, i have the same thing...sort of. I pulled an 8.8 last winter out of an explorer and it has a metal cover (still a tin can). While i was at i thought hey why not get another cover off of an 8.8 in a ranger. Well they weren't the same. The other cover i pulled was this composite crap. Not only that, but i checked the other day and it's not the same size. maybe not an 8.8? i'd make sure you have 31 spline shafts... it looked similar but is not the same size.

Nordic1
11-01-2004, 02:00 AM
Just wanted to leave some notes as long as they are fresh in my mine from doing my 8.8...

-If you are planning on buying a bracket kit, just re-use your old coil buckets. MORE's coil buckets are HUGE and I ended up having to use 2 (and I might need a 3rd) coil retainer to keep the coil in the center. Most bracket kits are meant for TJ style coils which have a massive diameter.

-Get Clayton style shock mounts (not stock style which I made the mistake of getting). Clayton's setup is a bolt welded to a piece of box tubing sortof like the upper shock mounts on the rear of ZJs.

-If you rotate your control arm mounts up (i'll post pics when I get my cammera back) to make them *again* clayton style ish, make sure your driveshaft is long enough... yea long story short I was pissed that I couldn't drive home. We were going to mount the LCA mounts stock style'ish and the driveshaft would be plenty long. At the last second we rotated the control arm mounts up pushing the axle back like 1.5". The brackets came out trick but I ended up having to leave the ZJ there for the week till I could work on it again.

-If you service an RE cartridge, pull out the hex retaining screw. Neither Jerod or I saw the screw and I FUCKED UP my re cartridge. It took him, myself and a 650 ft/lb impact to get the cartridge back together. The thing is cashed so I'll be ordering a new tri-link in the morn.

-DO NOT BUY MORE SPACERS... Sockets couldn't fit into the holes to tighten the 1/2" tall lug nuts (Jerod had to pound them in to get them to fit), and it's worth getting something like a 1.25-1.5" spacer. I would like to recommend spydertrax here.

-Think before you install the nipple for ARB fittings. I didn't say anything to the guy that did my gears so he installed the nipple at the 12 o lclock postion on the housing. I ended up making a trus for the tri-link out of tube (which turned out SUPER FUCKING SICK) but had I told the dude to mount the nipple else-where, it would have worked out a little easier.

-Have a front sway bar installed (I don't, this will be a fun ride home).

JeepinHank
11-01-2004, 09:32 AM
Anyone have a good link detailing the setup and specs for a gear install in an 8.8? I'll have someone with experience helping me when I do mine, but its always nice to know what's recommended in the FSM, etc.

JeepZJMFstud
11-03-2004, 03:05 AM
Alright, picked up a D44 out of a 87 XJ.. 3.63 and fricken drums. Figured out where i am getting my brakes. But i feel superior axle is rapeing me on the rebuild+ locker. So I like the 8.8 idea... so what do you think I can get price wise out of this D44?

MaineZJ
11-03-2004, 08:14 AM
Well first, fill out your profile so people know where you are

MaineZJ
11-09-2004, 08:46 PM
anyone know when 31 spline shafts began in the Exploders? Might be able to get a 92 for like $125

nathaniel
11-10-2004, 12:04 PM
Alaska has said before that all explorers are 31 spline and both the 91 or 92 one and the 98 that I have had are the same 31 spline.

You can get wheel spacersfrom www.truckn.com for about 50 a pair. Don't know there quality but i'm pretty sure they'll work.

Also all brake parts are interchangable between the drum and disk brake rears. Just unbolt the drums and bolt in the disk stuff.

Often disk brake 8.8's are expensive but drums are dirt cheap. So find the all the brake stuff on ebay or another axle and swap it in.

I'm using the more brakets on a current axle swap and its pure crap. Nothing fits worth bothering. Either use the old stuff or claytons or the sierra rock control stuff.

I would suggest not using the clayton style shock mounts if you are 6" or less of lift. It puts the mounts too close together for a decent shock length. Only ~2" of uptravel..

i only paid ~70 for all the brake stuff off ebay except the hard line and 125 for the axle.

The old spring perches cn be cutoff the axle with an angle grider but you pretty much have to destroy the axle to do it. ie remove all the brake hardware shafts cutoff the sway bar mounts then get the perches off.

robselina
01-23-2005, 01:16 PM
Okay, brakes.....

on the 89-95 explorer 8.8s with drums, what do we need to get the brakes plumbed? As far as I can tell, I should be able to use my stock ZJ soft line to the axle, then just get new hardlines from NAPA with the appropriate flared fittings on each end or am I missing something?

Also, what have you guys worked out for the e-brake? My explorer seems to have one brake line that's compatible with the existing hardware on the ZJ, then other e-brake line is just threaded at the end and I haven't figured out exactly what to do with it yet....


/ rant

This axle is just ticking me off. It's my own damn fault for being overly ambitious and wanting to setup my own gears, locker, make the diff cover, my own wheel spacers etc, but I just keep getting hung up on minor shit, mostly my own fault...the great move of the day was to put the lunchbox in and forget that it's a C clip axle so I can't do it on the bench :roll: now I get to pull it out and start again reading the dirrections this time.... If I can just get this thing 'done' and ready to go in today except for the brackets I'll be happy. That way next weekend I can pull the 35 , take the necessary measurements and then move the brackets over....

/ end rant

AprilzWarrior
01-23-2005, 05:53 PM
I cant speak on the Drums but the Disk brake Backing Plate has the same exact mounts that were on a disked ZJ, so Ebrakes were very simple, just reconnect them.



AW

Vonzipper
01-23-2005, 11:57 PM
Jarod,

Do you have a picture of your brakeline routing?? and where are you working now?, give me a call

Thanks

Scott

AprilzWarrior
01-24-2005, 12:28 AM
Jarod,

Do you have a picture of your brakeline routing?? and where are you working now?, give me a call

Thanks

Scott

all the pics of the 8.8 are posted in this thread already. You can run your brake lines wherever you like... so long as they dont get hung up on anything...


Jerod

zj-monster
07-26-2006, 11:02 PM
Holy cow...I'm back to bring threads from the dead again!

I was doing a search on car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com) for 8.8's and was taken back when given a selection from either the 6 or 8 cylinder Explorers. I don't see any reason to believe that there is a difference but I'll ask just for my and anyone else's education.

Is there a difference in these axles between the 6 & 8 cylinder Explorers? Both 6's & 8's offer 3.55's, 3.73's, & 4.10's with disc brakes.

J B
07-26-2006, 11:36 PM
If it has discs, it's certainly 31 spline, and that's the one you want.

:drinkers:

DJJordache
07-26-2006, 11:40 PM
I asked this before and the general consensus was that it didn't matter
here is a good thread on 8.8 tech (http://65.42.106.152/forums/showthread.php?t=674123&highlight=8.8+facts)
I can't wait to do my 8.8 swap!:D

zj-monster
07-27-2006, 12:05 AM
I asked this before and the general consensus was that it didn't matter
Ooooooooooooook...looks like I'm gonna score me one then.

Damn good info...from J.U. of all places too!! :D

metalman0285
08-08-2006, 11:59 AM
so does anyone have any info good/bad on this super 88 kit that superior axles has out (in petersons new edition)

AprilzWarrior
08-08-2006, 11:07 PM
so does anyone have any info good/bad on this super 88 kit that superior axles has out (in petersons new edition)


Well, Ive been going around trying to get my Cromo Shafts from Superior and theres been a issue... and far as I know, as of today they will be a delay on the release of the 88 kit.


HAHA... Ill be glad when the day comes I sell my 88.


AW:flipoff2:

metalman0285
08-10-2006, 02:11 AM
well damn

ILikeMud
08-18-2006, 11:39 AM
Ever have any problems with your spacers Jerod?

I don't know why but spacers scare me but it's something I'll have to deal with when running an 8.8.

AprilzWarrior
08-18-2006, 12:14 PM
Ever have any problems with your spacers Jerod?

I don't know why but spacers scare me but it's something I'll have to deal with when running an 8.8.

Never, even to this day. You see HOW I did my spacers right ? Not the typical bolt on with studs. I think thats the main reason its still hanging in there. Good ARP studs is what take the load. The spacer is just sandwiched.


Jerod

ILikeMud
08-18-2006, 01:22 PM
Yea, I think I'll end up running the same set up.
I've lost 30" when I was at stock height and it really sucked. I don't want to lose a 35" tire with 5" of lift, could be fairly dangerous.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
08-18-2006, 03:25 PM
definatley run spacers the way Jerod did. (longer high quality studs through the axle shaft). I have 1" aluminum spacers with crappy studs pressed into them and I think we all remember how things transpired when one decided to let go. Made for some good 3 wheel action. :D

ILikeMud
08-18-2006, 03:44 PM
definatley run spacers the way Jerod did. (longer high quality studs through the axle shaft). I have 1" aluminum spacers with crappy studs pressed into them and I think we all remember how things transpired when one decided to let go. Made for some good 3 wheel action. :D

That's the shit I'm talking about.
Losing a wheel going down hill at 80 sucks!

Sudz
08-18-2006, 11:51 PM
how i did mine

ARP studs with 5/8" thick aluminum spacer disk (had 'em black anodized)


http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/500/28100_6890-med.JPG

http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/500/28100_6906-med.JPG

http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/500/28100_6913-med.JPG

AprilzWarrior
08-19-2006, 01:24 PM
Sudz,
Everything looks so new and clean.... the there are those nasty calipers.... ???

AW

Sudz
08-19-2006, 08:19 PM
those calipers add character :finga:

Trusty
09-18-2006, 02:39 PM
What do you all think if I ran a 8.8 F150 (65" WMS) in the rear, and then ran 1" spacers/wheel pattern 5 on 5 to 5 on 5 1/2" on the front and changed wheels to the 5.5 pattern? I got a free 8.8 and was thinking that would be the way to go, then when I get a HP44, I can ditch the wheel spacers. See any problems doing this? Thanks

AprilzWarrior
09-18-2006, 07:22 PM
What do you all think if I ran a 8.8 F150 (65" WMS) in the rear, and then ran 1" spacers/wheel pattern 5 on 5 to 5 on 5 1/2" on the front and changed wheels to the 5.5 pattern? I got a free 8.8 and was thinking that would be the way to go, then when I get a HP44, I can ditch the wheel spacers. See any problems doing this? Thanks


Go for it.:smt023

Trusty
09-18-2006, 08:35 PM
sounds good!

Cue-Ball
09-18-2006, 09:08 PM
Sudz,
Everything looks so new and clean.... the there are those nasty calipers.... ???

AW

Exactly

DJJordache
09-19-2006, 11:49 PM
got any pointers on how you measured for the placement of the CA brackets that made it easier to locate the right spot for them on the 8.8? Did you find center first of both axles and then go from there or measure from the outside and subtract half the differance in axle widths and masure in to center?
I'm just trying to get an idea what I'm gonna do when I find my 8.8. I already have a spare set of brackets that I need to finish cutting off the d35 tubes and modifing for the 3.25" tubes. I found that 3" PVC thin wall is 3.25" OD, so I'm using that for bracket radius mockup until I get teh 8.8.
It's nice having a spare set of brackets so I'm in no real time crunch to get finished with the install:D

JohnBoulderCO
09-19-2006, 11:53 PM
I started from the outside and measured "in" on both sides. That's how I got it centered. Trying to find the center, with the pumkin being offset, was giving me a headache.

AprilzWarrior
09-20-2006, 10:11 PM
I started from the outside and measured "in" on both sides. That's how I got it centered. Trying to find the center, with the pumkin being offset, was giving me a headache.


Finding center is SUPER easy... clamp anything flat (like a 1' ruler)to each rotor, then run a string from each side and measure half way, and thats center (no matter how offset the center is). Then measure out from the center. Measuring from the outside in can screw you up if you forget the 5/8" difference in width on ANY of the mounts.

AW

JohnBoulderCO
09-20-2006, 11:36 PM
The math wasn't hard, it was trying to get a good mark on the pumkin, or holding the tape still.....I just found it easier to measure in from the sides.

nate
09-21-2006, 09:17 AM
Yeah that's all I did. Makes more sense to do it that way to me.

DJJordache
11-08-2006, 11:06 AM
hey guys I got something more to add:D you can keep ABS with the 8.8!
the Jeep system is 4 sensor but is still 3 hydraulic (front L&R and ONE rear)

I have done it myself on my brothers 90XJ with a 8.8 and the ABS does still work and will do it again on my ZJ. I was going to go the route of the tone rings on each wheel (like Z did) but that is a pain and costly once you get bushings for the 8.8 shafts since the OD area on the 8.8 shafts is smaller in that spot than the d35.

how I KEPT the ABS working on his XJ and will do the same on my ZJ:
my ZJ tone rings are 54 tooth per side and the 8.8 has 108 teeth on the ring gear 54x2=108!
his 90 XJ tone rings are 51 tooth but we decided to try it this way anyway. and later found out that the sensor does not count the teeth but just either sees a tooth or not.

I took the angle grinder and ground down EVERY OTHER TOOTH on the 8.8 ring gear tone ring making it 54 teeth.
We then wired both the Jeep rear sensors together left and right reds together and the ford sensor red all together and then if I remember correctly the left and right Jeep wires were yellow and wire those to the other ford sensor wire.
finished the install and bleed the brakes, then took it for a spin. the ABS light came on at startup like usual and then went off like usual! and didnt come back on as if there was a problem. I then slammed on the brakes and YES the ABS was STILL WORKING without the ABS light comming on! and it has worked perfectly since we finished the install 2 weeks ago and the 8.8 with disks is a real nice upgrade in braking. The 8.8 was installed b/c with his stroker it blew up the D35 (broken spider gears, chewed ring and pinion, bent the cross-shaft and more)

as far as I know I'm the first to be able to CONFIRM that this way works for sure. at least it did on his Bendix ABS brake system. I will later do this again on my ZJ when I find the right 8.8 with 4.10's in the yards.

I can't wait to get it running in my ZJ but I have not found a 8.8 with 4.10's in the cheap yards near me where I can get it COMPLETE for about $100 in great shape too. I figure since I'm doing the work myself I might be able to pull off the whole swap under $300 for sure, but it's the little things that can add up quick.....

here is a SUPER TECHNICAL wiring diagram I just made up for those that like pictures=)
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/djjordache/XJ/technical8.jpg
Keep in mind I also ground off every other tooth on the 8.8 tone ring to equal 54 teeth. And this for sure works on a 90 XJ ABS system, and will test is out on my ZJ hopefully soon

Jim311
11-08-2006, 12:07 PM
That's pretty cool!

AprilzWarrior
11-09-2006, 12:31 AM
Very good tech !!

BigDaveZJ
11-09-2006, 12:39 AM
Your diagram > *.*

:-)

nate
11-09-2006, 07:46 AM
If you do get ABS to work, I would wire an on/off switch or something to shut it off off road. I remember a few times when I was still running the stock axles, the ABS would get confused and I ended up with a hard pedal and no brakes :smt107

gonecheenin
11-09-2006, 08:13 AM
hey guys I got something more to add:D you can keep ABS with the 8.8!
the Jeep system is 4 sensor but is still 3 hydraulic (front L&R and ONE rear)

I have done it myself on my brothers 90XJ with a 8.8 and the ABS does still work and will do it again on my ZJ. I was going to go the route of the tone rings on each wheel (like Z did) but that is a pain and costly once you get bushings for the 8.8 shafts since the OD area on the 8.8 shafts is smaller in that spot than the d35.

how I KEPT the ABS working on his XJ and will do the same on my ZJ:
my ZJ tone rings are 54 tooth per side and the 8.8 has 108 teeth on the ring gear 54x2=108!
his 90 XJ tone rings are 51 tooth but we decided to try it this way anyway. and later found out that the sensor does not count the teeth but just either sees a tooth or not.

I took the angle grinder and ground down EVERY OTHER TOOTH on the 8.8 ring gear tone ring making it 54 teeth.
We then wired both the Jeep rear sensors together left and right reds together and the ford sensor red all together and then if I remember correctly the left and right Jeep wires were yellow and wire those to the other ford sensor wire.
finished the install and bleed the brakes, then took it for a spin. the ABS light came on at startup like usual and then went off like usual! and didnt come back on as if there was a problem. I then slammed on the brakes and YES the ABS was STILL WORKING without the ABS light comming on! and it has worked perfectly since we finished the install 2 weeks ago and the 8.8 with disks is a real nice upgrade in braking. The 8.8 was installed b/c with his stroker it blew up the D35 (broken spider gears, chewed ring and pinion, bent the cross-shaft and more)

as far as I know I'm the first to be able to CONFIRM that this way works for sure. at least it did on his Bendix ABS brake system. I will later do this again on my ZJ when I find the right 8.8 with 4.10's in the yards.

I can't wait to get it running in my ZJ but I have not found a 8.8 with 4.10's in the cheap yards near me where I can get it COMPLETE for about $100 in great shape too. I figure since I'm doing the work myself I might be able to pull off the whole swap under $300 for sure, but it's the little things that can add up quick.....

here is a SUPER TECHNICAL wiring diagram I just made up for those that like pictures=)
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/djjordache/XJ/technical8.jpg
Keep in mind I also ground off every other tooth on the 8.8 tone ring to equal 54 teeth. And this for sure works on a 90 XJ ABS system, and will test is out on my ZJ hopefully soon




Hmmm, wonder if i could use this same method to make my 2 sensor rear ABS into a single sensor ABS (bad sensor AND installing the Super 35 soon anyway)



Anybody have a write up on how to disable the ABS for offroad without making the ABS think its malfunctioning?

Jim311
11-09-2006, 08:15 AM
Who cares if the ABS thinks it's malfunctioning? It shuts itself off if it senses a malfunction, which is exactly what you want it to do.

ILikeMud
11-09-2006, 09:04 AM
I Vote for deleting ABS :D

DJJordache
11-09-2006, 09:42 AM
hahah I thought yall would like the hardcore wiring schematic diagram:D

gonecheenin: I would not wire both sensors to just the left rear or the right rear b/c it would not work correctly if the opposite wheel of the sensor was locked the system would not know it. and if you did that then whats the point of keeping it if it doesn't work right....

nate
11-09-2006, 09:45 AM
Agreed.. but if the rig is street driven alot it could be bad if your involved in a wreck and they find you gutted the ABS.

I don't have ABS on my ZJ. I pulled everything out. Sold on the pump on eBay just last week for $100 too :D

ILikeMud
11-09-2006, 10:42 AM
I don't have ABS on my ZJ. I pulled everything out. Sold on the pump on eBay just last week for $100 too :D

I knew I shouldn't have junked mine. :smt013

OverkillZJ
11-09-2006, 10:53 AM
Agreed.. but if the rig is street driven alot it could be bad if your involved in a wreck and they find you gutted the ABS.


Absolutely dead on! Let's say insurance knows your vehicle came with ABS, and you're involved in a wreck. If they find out that you bypassed a safety system that would stand even the slightest chance of preventing that accident, you'd probably be in violation of something or other and they have an out (and don't have to pay out.)

Just food for thought (cover your ass where you can!)

gsh
11-09-2006, 12:53 PM
Agree on not relying on only one sensor of a two sensor system. But if the axle was spooled or lincoln locked no problem with only one sensor. Why bother with ABS at that point?

If it wasn't for the possible issues of insurance I would have deleted ABS on mine. I'm thinking of trying to setup a disable switch which automatically resets enabled for on-road use. Maybe tied into the low range indicator or when the engine is shut down.

Mud Flinger
11-09-2006, 06:53 PM
Wow, great thread. How much time did it take you in total to do the swap? The reason I ask is because I live in a condo, and I can not work on my rigs in the parkade. So I plan to get a shop to do most of the work, primarily all the welding, and fabrication. I plan to grind all the stock 8.8 stuff off the housing myself. As for the ABS system, I plan to somehow delete it off my rig. Not sure how yet, right now I am just researching the 8.8 swap. My ABS just seems to randomly come on, at completely the wrong time. I scored a 8.8 with matching gears for my front D30 (3.73 gears). The only bad thing about it, is its drum brakes, off a 93 exploder. My final question, is related to the junk ZJ D35 rear. Long story short, the yoke came off the pinion stripping the threads. To get this stock D35 back to operating order, I will take it to a shop. How many hours should it normally take to replace the pinion? That is all and thanks again for all the great information in this Ford 8.8 swap thread.

Locked98GC
01-01-2007, 03:20 PM
Cheapest place I found the 2-2-1379 Spicer Flange. Shaftmasters.com, $25.61 + SH.


U-Joint info when using the 8.8 Flange from an Explorer. This is the 1310-1330 Conversion U-Joint.

One of the many vehicles that uses this U-Joint as a stock item.

1978 F-100, 5.0L (302 cu.in.), 2 wheel drive, CrewCab, 2 piece rear driveshaft, used in all three positions.

Precision Regular U-Joint, Greasable, PCN-353, Summit Racing
Precisoin Super U-Joint, Greasable, PCN-275, Summit Racing
Precision Super U-Joint, Non-Greasable, PCN-253, Summit Racing

GMB Regular U-Joint, Non-Greasable, 2100134, Kragen
Neapco Regular U-Joint, Greasable, 10134, Kragen
Neapco Brute Force U-Joint, Non-Greasable, 10134BF, Kragen
McQuay Regular U-Joint, Unsure, U134, Kragen
McQuay Brute force U-Joint, Unsure, U134HP, Kragen

Precision Regular U-Joint, Greasable, PUJ-353, NAPA
Precisoin Super U-Joint, Greasable, PUJ-275, NAPA
Precision Super U-Joint, Non-Greasable, PUJ-253, NAPA
Neapco Regular U-Joint, Greasable, NUJ2100134, NAPA
Neapco Performance U-Joint, Unsure, NUJ2150134, NAPA

PDQ Regular U-Joint, Unsure, 1-0134, Autozone
PDQ Brute Force, Unsure, 1-0134BF, Autozone

You should notice a trend here for the part numbers.
Precision, 353/275/253
All others (but not all) I have researced end with 134.

Some of the sites I have gone to, and put in the info for the F-100, sometimes only gives a P/N that ends in 153. These will not work. Autozone for one example, but I listed their numbers up above.

It is a common U-Joint and can be purchased at most auto parts places using the F-100 above as a reference.

gonecheenin
01-03-2007, 12:03 PM
gonecheenin: I would not wire both sensors to just the left rear or the right rear b/c it would not work correctly if the opposite wheel of the sensor was locked the system would not know it. and if you did that then whats the point of keeping it if it doesn't work right....

true, but with a rear axle if its sensing at least one wheel then its still not flat out skidding broadside or anything

plus with a locked rear axle (spool for sure, not sure about a mechanical locker) the one sensor would tell the computer if both rear tires are locking up which would be all it actuallu needs to know to work fine



And i kept the ABS for exactly the reasons stated, to avoid any possible liabilitys during on highway use

also am planning on doing the offroad cancel deal to allow it to shut off when being used in the dirt but automatically reenable itself when needed

nova
01-03-2007, 02:07 PM
Never use brute force u-joints for off-roading, they don't seem to be able to put up with the stress, I've broken quite a few on my YJ, yet to break the dana I have in now though.

Locked98GC
01-03-2007, 07:58 PM
Nova or anyone, if you can get me the P/N and where to buy the Dana/Spicers from, I'll update the list.

nova
01-03-2007, 10:24 PM
Not really sure on the part #. I buy mine from Denny's Driveshaft. He's built my driveshafts along with some IHRA dudes. Best there is.

http://dennysdriveshaft.com/

I'm sure if you called him, he'd be able to find the part # for you, hell he'd probably know it off the top of his head.

I know gonecheenin has a bad ass mochine and he pushes it pretty good a lot. He's a precision dude.

Only time i ever broke one in the bluggy was during a full throttle launch out of a creek bed when the left front tire wedged a tree violently in between it and the frame (and i was running a stock stub which i believe spread from the force which increased the load on the joints journals)

DJJordache
02-11-2007, 03:51 PM
ok another bump since I got my 8.8 in yesterday but I didn't have much time to test it out since with my luck the one I got had a bad pinion bearing that is making a ton of noise and since it is sunday the ford dealer is not open so I can get another crush sleeve...... but anyways!
I did it again and the ABS does still work on my ZJ and since pics are worth 1000 words check these out:
SUPER TECHNICAL DIAGRAM V2.0 :D
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/djjordache/4wdswap/technicalZJ.jpg

and here are some pics of how to cut the tone ring to make it 54 teeth:
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/djjordache/4wdswap/absgrind1.jpg
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c367/djjordache/4wdswap/absgrind2.jpg
The braking upgrade alone was sweet! and I did not even mod the prop valve and the braking is much much better than stock.

now if I can just fix this stupid pinion bearing vib I'll be all good and I am looking forward to being able to use the 4wd:D

hmmm now I need some D60's:rolleyes:

Sudz
02-11-2007, 08:29 PM
U-Joint info when using the 8.8 Flange from an Explorer. This is the 1310-1330 Conversion U-Joint.

One of the many vehicles that uses this U-Joint as a stock item.

1978 F-100, 5.0L (302 cu.in.), 2 wheel drive, CrewCab, 2 piece rear driveshaft, used in all three positions.

Precision Regular U-Joint, Greasable, PCN-353, Summit Racing
Precisoin Super U-Joint, Greasable, PCN-275, Summit Racing
Precision Super U-Joint, Non-Greasable, PCN-253, Summit Racing

GMB Regular U-Joint, Non-Greasable, 2100134, Kragen
Neapco Regular U-Joint, Greasable, 10134, Kragen
Neapco Brute Force U-Joint, Non-Greasable, 10134BF, Kragen
McQuay Regular U-Joint, Unsure, U134, Kragen
McQuay Brute force U-Joint, Unsure, U134HP, Kragen

Precision Regular U-Joint, Greasable, PUJ-353, NAPA
Precisoin Super U-Joint, Greasable, PUJ-275, NAPA
Precision Super U-Joint, Non-Greasable, PUJ-253, NAPA
Neapco Regular U-Joint, Greasable, NUJ2100134, NAPA
Neapco Performance U-Joint, Unsure, NUJ2150134, NAPA

PDQ Regular U-Joint, Unsure, 1-0134, Autozone
PDQ Brute Force, Unsure, 1-0134BF, Autozone

You should notice a trend here for the part numbers.
Precision, 353/275/253
All others (but not all) I have researced end with 134.

Some of the sites I have gone to, and put in the info for the F-100, sometimes only gives a P/N that ends in 153. These will not work. Autozone for one example, but I listed their numbers up above.

It is a common U-Joint and can be purchased at most auto parts places using the F-100 above as a reference.

why screw around with this bullshit? - just buy a Spicer 2-2-1379 and be done with it (1310 flange yoke Ford 8.8)

I paid $26.18 from Drive Train Specialists (ask for Rich)

http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/

DJJordache
02-11-2007, 10:15 PM
why screw around with this bullshit? - just buy a Spicer 2-2-1379 and be done with it (1310 flange yoke Ford 8.8)

I paid $26.18 from Drive Train Specialists (ask for Rich)

http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/ or you could get one from a ford ranger which is what I did the number on it was 2-2-671 IIRC but it is for sure a 1310 ujoint adapter

corrupt143
03-04-2007, 06:09 PM
I'm sure this has been talked to death but a search hasnt really given me a definitive answer so here goes.

I know the 8.8's out of the Explorers are a total of 1 1/4" shorter WMS-WMS. And from what I found in searches, the 8.8 is 59.5. Is this right? So using the addition I learned in first grade, the stock WMS-WMS on a ZJ is 60 3/4". This is just info I was curious about.

Now for the real question. Whats the WMS-WMS of the 98 and up Ranger FX4 8.8? I know theyre 31 spline with disc brakes, 4.10's and a Zexel-Torsen limited-slip differential but thats all the info I could find. Im thinking they must be shorter since nobody ever does this swap.

zedjay95
03-05-2007, 01:52 AM
this was sorta mentioned but not really discussed but what would be involved in the drum to disc conversion? as in could i use some or all the parts from my d35 disc brakes on the 8.8 wich would really be nice since i just replaced all the brakes on my 35

corrupt143
05-29-2007, 03:03 AM
Now for the real question. Whats the WMS-WMS of the 98 and up Ranger FX4 8.8? I know theyre 31 spline with disc brakes, 4.10's and a Zexel-Torsen limited-slip differential but thats all the info I could find. Im thinking they must be shorter since nobody ever does this swap. The 8.8 out of the 93 and up Rangers is 1.5" shorter than the Explorer but the Zexel-Torsen does work in the Explorer 8.8.

Just thought I'd share.

J B
05-29-2007, 03:09 PM
or you could get one from a ford ranger which is what I did the number on it was 2-2-671 IIRC but it is for sure a 1310 ujoint adapter

And that part is about as weak as weak gets. There are pictures ALL over the web of failed flange yokes.

If you're going to the trouble of swapping an 8.8, don't bother with the ranger flange yoke. If you do, you might want to consider having a custome driveshaft made of paper towel tubes so that you won't break the adapter.

Pinion yokes are readily available for the 8.8....much better route.

DJJordache
05-29-2007, 03:36 PM
are we talking about the same thing? The part I'm talking about is the same as the exploder adapter that is spicer 2-2-1379 but in a 1310 form instead of 1330. It's just the same looking as the spicer 2-2-1369 1310 adapter.
or are you taking about taking off the stock flat flange on the 8.8 to adapt a 1310 ujoint yoke?

phillyzj
05-29-2007, 04:18 PM
are we talking about the same thing? The part I'm talking about is the same as the exploder adapter that is spicer 2-2-1379 but in a 1310 form instead of 1330. It's just the same looking as the spicer 2-2-1369 1310 adapter.
or are you taking about taking off the stock flat flange on the 8.8 to adapt a 1310 ujoint yoke?

he's talking about a yoke instead of the stock flat flange. They are available readily and i believe came stock on something...not sure what off the top of my head. there are also aftermarket billet flanges out there.

The flanges do break, though it's better than having a D35 in there :D

J B
05-29-2007, 04:42 PM
he's talking about a yoke instead of the stock flat flange. They are available readily and i believe came stock on something...not sure what off the top of my head. there are also aftermarket billet flanges out there.

The flanges do break, though it's better than having a D35 in there :D

Yokes have been available for some time, and I'd be willing to bet that they did come stock on something, but nothing I have looked under yet had anything more than the flange yoke.

But that factory Ranger flange yoke is a POS.

zj95maxx
06-03-2007, 10:06 AM
:confused: Not too newb it up too much but, when installing this with Claytons, I am trying to push the axle back a bit to fit 35s. Thing we are worried about is the coil buckets being not centered on each other, top and bottom, does this matter?
I know it has been many times, pushing the axle back that is, but is it a problem if the spring has a small angle?

AprilzWarrior
06-03-2007, 10:57 AM
:confused: Not too newb it up too much but, when installing this with Claytons, I am trying to push the axle back a bit to fit 35s. Thing we are worried about is the coil buckets being not centered on each other, top and bottom, does this matter?
I know it has been many times, pushing the axle back that is, but is it a problem if the spring has a small angle?



Spring bow is common, but not perfect IMO. You really dont need to go that far back with the axle for 35"s. But if you insist you will probably need to reangle the coil buckets on the axle.

zj95maxx
06-03-2007, 11:43 AM
Spring bow is common, but not perfect IMO. You really dont need to go that far back with the axle for 35"s. But if you insist you will probably need to reangle the coil buckets on the axle.

We were thinking about an inch push back to fit the 35"s

Sudz
06-03-2007, 01:28 PM
:when installing this with Claytons, I am trying to push the axle back a bit to fit 35s. Thing we are worried about is the coil buckets being not centered on each other, top and bottom

no problem - i moved my rear axle back about 1 1/4 inches - the clayton rear coil mount is a 3 piece design – there is a bracket that welds directly to the tube (the tube profile is cut into the bracket) – then on top of that you weld on a Ό inch thick metal disk (supplied with a nut welded in the center) – you can position the metal disk anywhere you want on top of the tube bracket (metal disk gets welded on) – on top of that you mount a UHMW (white plastic) disk that has the coil profile milled into it and a center thru hole – you bolt the plastic disk down using a metal tab (tab is the coil hold down) which also secures the plastic disk to the metal disk - make sense?

Sudz
06-03-2007, 02:03 PM
in these photos i have the axle bracket welded on – i am now locating the position for the metal disk (shown sitting on the floor near my left knee – you can also see the white plastic disk with the coil hold down tab) – prior to this, i set the 8.8 into position under the heep at the proper location and height and dropped a plumb bob down from the top coil mount center to the top of the axle bracket and marked the center. in the photo i am double checking the position against a sketch i made earlier – after everything was bolted in and the truck was sitting on it’s own weight, it was dead on and my coils have zero bow (rear moved back 1 1/4 inched from stock)

http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/500/28100_6382.JPG

http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/photopost/data/500/28100_6383.JPG

hth

corrupt143
06-03-2007, 02:12 PM
he's talking about a yoke instead of the stock flat flange. They are available readily and i believe came stock on something...not sure what off the top of my head. there are also aftermarket billet flanges out there.

The flanges do break, though it's better than having a D35 in there :D
So where can I find one of these non-flanged yokes?

phillyzj
06-03-2007, 02:14 PM
So where can I find one of these non-flanged yokes?

how much you want to spend?

http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshaftYokes.aspx?CategoryID=128

i'm guessing some of the fullsize fords with the 8.8 might have them, but i really don't know for sure. some are 1330 some are 1310 ujoints too...

corrupt143
06-03-2007, 02:31 PM
how much you want to spend?

http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshaftYokes.aspx?CategoryID=128

i'm guessing some of the fullsize fords with the 8.8 might have them, but i really don't know for sure. some are 1330 some are 1310 ujoints too...

:eek: NOT a $190. At that price I'll just carry some spare flange yokes.

phillyzj
06-03-2007, 02:39 PM
:eek: NOT a $190. At that price I'll just carry some spare flange yokes.


that's a billet racing level 1350 yoke, just the first thing that popped up in google. there are plenty of other options.

J B
06-03-2007, 02:40 PM
I have run across them before....many are available for half that.

Just do a google search.

zj95maxx
06-03-2007, 04:02 PM
no problem - i moved my rear axle back about 1 1/4 inches - the clayton rear coil mount is a 3 piece design – there is a bracket that welds directly to the tube (the tube profile is cut into the bracket) – then on top of that you weld on a Ό inch thick metal disk (supplied with a nut welded in the center) – you can position the metal disk anywhere you want on top of the tube bracket (metal disk gets welded on) – on top of that you mount a UHMW (white plastic) disk that has the coil profile milled into it and a center thru hole – you bolt the plastic disk down using a metal tab (tab is the coil hold down) which also secures the plastic disk to the metal disk - make sense?

I am not using claton brackets, I am using ballistic brackets

Sudz
06-03-2007, 10:18 PM
Not too newb it up too much but, when installing this with Claytons, I am trying to push the axle back a bit to fit 35s. Thing we are worried about is the coil buckets being not centered on each other, top and bottom, does this matter?

after explaining that this can be easily accomplished with claytons kit - i get this reply


I am not using claton brackets, I am using ballistic brackets

http://www.dbstalk.com/images/smiles2/kgo_017.gif fawking noobtard

Ex-Nihilo
06-03-2007, 10:36 PM
If you want a yoke, I am pretty sure some people have swapped over 9" yokes to the 8.8 but those are 1330s? I believe.

zj95maxx
06-03-2007, 10:48 PM
after explaining that this can be easily accomplished with claytons kit - i get this reply



http://www.dbstalk.com/images/smiles2/kgo_017.gif fawking noobtard

uh? I ment, with the clayton long arms, I am trying to push it back,as in, i am installing the kit(clayton longarms) and have a question about pushing back axle, but i am not using the bracket kit that you can order seperatly for coil buckets and whatnot..:smt067

BLK97ZJ
06-03-2007, 10:54 PM
When i set up my 8.8 i just set the brackets up with the axle rotated up 12 degree's and now with the new CV drive shaft the coils sit perfect and I also pushed the axle back about 1 1/2".

Ted_Z
09-27-2007, 05:28 PM
Just throught I'd add this link. True yoke for the 8.8. Granted its a 1330 size, its better than a pinion flange and flange to u-joint adapter.

http://www.riversidegear.com/categories/differential/ford-differential-parts/88-ford-parts/products/product-436.html (http://www.riversidegear.com/categories/differential/ford-differential-parts/88-ford-parts/products/product-436.html)

Casey L
10-20-2007, 06:52 PM
Does anyone know how to get the images to work again?

edit - Thanks they are fixed now.

AprilzWarrior
11-18-2007, 01:35 AM
Does anyone know how to get the images to work again?

edit - Thanks they are fixed now.


Pay the bill. :flipoff2:

AndyZJ
11-22-2007, 07:07 PM
Speaking about the joint at the end of Ranger driveshafts (1310) does anyone know if any of the Mustang driveshafts have that ujoint too? I took out a driveshaft the other day from a 4cyl. mustang with an 8.8 and that thing looked like it was about the same size as the 1310 Jeep joint, but none of the parts places i called could tell me what joint it was, they just said "uh, i have the ujoint, but not the type it is." Then on the same note, if it is the same as the one on the Rangers and Broncos i guess its junk just like them right?

AndyZJ
11-23-2007, 12:19 PM
Nevermind i looked it up and crossed the part numbers and they were the same. So i guess i'll go with that till i upgrade to something a little stronger.

Locked98GC
12-14-2007, 02:32 PM
You will have to take your measurements from your old axle, before you cut the brackets off, from the center line out to the brake assy. I took the measurements down, but can't find them anymore. I kept the accuracy of the brackets pretty close to the original measurements but wasn't anal about it. I am running adjustable LA's so wasn't concerned about it. If you are on fixed control arms, why are you putting in an 8.8, J/K. You'll have to be pretty accurate, I would say to within 1/16 inch for the control arm brackets, front to back (rotated on the axle)/side to side.

For my application I put the pinion up 7 degrees, resting on a block of wood. You will need a small level so the spring pads are level when welded on. For the control arms I eyeballed it for where they would ride on the axle front to back. Check further up the post for pictures of the finished axle.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/pr1aw/Ford%208%208/100_1606.jpg

Take some stiff cardboard (I used gasket material as it was laying around) with a straight edge so you can make right angle circles on the axle. This worked for me. Your control arm brackets are angled, so if you measured to the center of the bracket, the center would be tacked to the axle on that line you just laid down.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/pr1aw/Ford%208%208/100_1601.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/pr1aw/Ford%208%208/100_1602.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/pr1aw/Ford%208%208/100_1598.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/pr1aw/Ford%208%208/100_1597.jpg

These 4 pictures show the basic layout. Hope you get the idea from here kinda how to set this part up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/pr1aw/Ford%208%208/100_1599.jpg

I marked the pipe on both ends, this way if it fell off, and it did, you wont lose your center mark.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/pr1aw/Ford%208%208/100_1603.jpg

Measure from side to side an divide it by 1/2 and thats your center. (I'm really hoping you know that already.)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/pr1aw/Ford%208%208/100_1604.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v620/pr1aw/Ford%208%208/100_1605.jpg

Get out your favorite square and start marking.

As for the drive shaft, its stock. There are 2 ways you can go for the u-joint on the explorer axle.

1) Get a 2-2-1379 Spicer Flange. Cheapest place I found them at was at Shaftmasters.com, $25.61 + SH. This way when you go the parts store you just ask for a U-Joint that fits the Grand.

2)If using the flange from the Explorer you will need a 1310-1330 Conversion U-Joint.

3) As mentioned above

ZJ Pappy
12-14-2007, 02:52 PM
Shaftmasters.com

:smt112 Sounds like a good time.








Please excuse my immaturity. Continue with the discussion.

nick_n_ii
12-16-2007, 02:23 PM
I didn't see it any ware, but a Mustang 8.8 is about 3" narrower than the Exsploder's, found that when I bought one for my YJ..

DJJordache
12-16-2007, 05:59 PM
I didn't see it any ware, but a Mustang 8.8 is about 3" narrower than the Exsploder's, found that when I bought one for my YJ..BUT!!! the rustang axle is only marginally better that the turdy 5 since it only has 28 spline axle shafts...

nate
12-16-2007, 09:59 PM
the older exploders used 1310 joints FYI.. so teh adapter is the right one.

zacharykro
12-17-2007, 09:53 PM
can i use my slotted d35 rotors on the 8.8? and can i keep my stainless crusty's brakeline

zacharykro
12-18-2007, 08:16 PM
summits part numbers suggest that there is a difference between the two rear rotors.

ZachJ
12-18-2007, 08:23 PM
can i use my slotted d35 rotors on the 8.8? and can i keep my stainless crusty's brakeline

I used my d35 rotors on my 8.8.

AprilzWarrior
12-19-2007, 01:51 AM
Yeah, Ive put D35 Rotors and Calipers on a 8.8 No problem.

zacharykro
12-19-2007, 04:29 PM
how about my stainless braided extended brakeline? basically im asking it they use the same hardline fittings at the axle end you know?

Dirtdiver
02-06-2008, 02:46 AM
Does the rear drive shaft hafta be lengthend or shortend?

ZachJ
02-06-2008, 04:22 AM
Does the rear drive shaft hafta be lengthend or shortend?

Im still running my stock one with claytons.

Dirtdiver
02-07-2008, 03:08 AM
When welding up the tubes to the houing do need to pull the inner barrings and shaft or just weldit as is? Need all the help I can get>

nate
02-07-2008, 01:08 PM
Shouldn't need to. Just don't get carried away with your welding and superheat it.

slim616
02-07-2008, 08:51 PM
Not sure if this has been covered (sorry if it has) but I grabbed the spicer joint off the explorer that conects the flange to the u-joint and from first inspection it looks like it fits a jeep u-joint no prob. I know from my research I thought they had different ujoints. Also for brake lines the one brake line will not work if you want to run extended braklines. This is due to the fact that the splitter on the explorers is crimped on to the line that comes out of the one caliper.

Dirtdiver
02-10-2008, 12:40 AM
Got bracket from PORC and turned out to be from RE. Damn thing is a pain to get the brackets right. Anyone ever had the same problem?

greenhunter
02-24-2008, 10:46 PM
I just got done putting mine in and I was surprised to learn that I could reuse damn near everything. All of the brake stuff is identical, the breather hose screw is the same size, I even managed to swap backing plates since the stock Ford ones were pretty bent up and replacements were at least $100 (have to buy the caliper brackets to get them).

A couple of snags:
What do I do to extend the breather hose? When the Jeep is level, it's streching the hose, so any droop of the driver's side would probably pop the thing off.
How much slip should the rear yoke have on the transfer case? I don't have an SYE because I've not had vibe issues, but the driveshaft is long enough to worry me when the axle moves. Should I shorten it more than 1-2"?

DansZJ
02-24-2008, 11:09 PM
I just got done putting mine in and I was surprised to learn that I could reuse damn near everything. All of the brake stuff is identical, the breather hose screw is the same size, I even managed to swap backing plates since the stock Ford ones were pretty bent up and replacements were at least $100 (have to buy the caliper brackets to get them).

Thanks for this info! My axle arrived with jacked up backing plates, but thanks to Pitch, I have a set of D35 brakes including the backing plate, calipers, etc. I was hoping this would bolt up!
I'm just waiting for my set of Mad4WD brackets so I can get started on it.

greenhunter
02-24-2008, 11:41 PM
For the backing plates, you'll have to drill out the existing rivets, widen the tube hole that fits over the axle tube, re-rivet the plates onto the 8.8 caliper brackets, then redrill the backing plate holes. It's actually really easy since the rivets and backing plates are soft as aluminum. Make sure to mark which plate goes on which side, I got them backwards and bent the 35 plates a little. Good luck to you!

grandmaster
02-26-2008, 09:50 PM
So im a little lost and dont feel like reading the other 6 pages. The rotors will transfer over i got that much. But can you use the d35 calipers on the 8.8? What about the e-brake cable, is it the same attatchment at the ends? Just curious because I got my 8.8 about a month ago and have just been waiting to get a little more money so I can get my long arm setup in so I dont have to do everything twice. Also where did everyone get there lower control arm mounts, shock mounts, and coil buckets? Or did you fab your own?

zj95maxx
02-26-2008, 10:01 PM
I left the 8.8 backing plate but transfered everything from my 35..E brake cable, rotors, pads, calibers.

greenhunter
02-26-2008, 10:53 PM
The only thing I found to be different was the length of the scissoring linkage that the cable attaches to on the back of brakes. I can't say which works and which doesn't, I'm waiting for new hardware (springs, adjuster screw, and such) before I put mine in.

DansZJ
02-26-2008, 11:36 PM
So im a little lost and dont feel like reading the other 6 pages. The rotors will transfer over i got that much. But can you use the d35 calipers on the 8.8? What about the e-brake cable, is it the same attatchment at the ends? Just curious because I got my 8.8 about a month ago and have just been waiting to get a little more money so I can get my long arm setup in so I dont have to do everything twice. Also where did everyone get there lower control arm mounts, shock mounts, and coil buckets? Or did you fab your own?


I bought my brackets from http://mad4wd.com/. They fit the 3.25 axle tubes on the 8.8 but they are made for the TJ. I'll have to take photos while I install them, and see if I run into any trouble.

I was going to hack & reuse my 35 brackets, but I chose the easier (lazy) route. I hope it's easier. Plus I plan to sell my 35 on craigs and recoup a few bucks.

If you are doing long-arms, you should check out Clayton's high clearance kit. It comes with his long arm kit, or you can purchase them separately. These are really nice as they raise everything up so nothing hangs lower than the axle tube.
Check out the photos here: Shock mounts (http://www.claytonoffroad.com/pixsrv.aspx?image=/images/products/cormabk_6.jpg&mode=cs-gallery-product-preview) Lower Control Arm/Spring mount (http://www.claytonoffroad.com/pixsrv.aspx?image=/images/products/cormabk_1.png&mode=cs-gallery-product-preview)
I WANTED to get these and use them on my build but they won't work with a short arm lift, and I'm not ready to go long arm just yet. And yes, I called and confirmed this with them. ;)

For the e-brake, in my research I found a site with some cool tech info on the 8.8 build. This guy re-used a YJ brake cable by looping it around the 8.8 lever and securing it with a cable lock. It towards the bottom of this page: http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html
If this works with the ZJ cable it would be pretty easy to do.

grandmaster
02-26-2008, 11:51 PM
I left the 8.8 backing plate but transfered everything from my 35..E brake cable, rotors, pads, calibers.

Good to know good to know, that saves quite a bit of money.

So DansZJ what brackets exactly did you buy from http://mad4wd.com/ (http://mad4wd.com/) all I can find is the control arm, bucket, and shock mount all in one.



http://madmfg.com/bmz_cache/e/e26ca5e0decdd60b59b0986e52f3ed8c.image.129x111.jpg (http://madmfg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=323&zenid=edfc1538181a68ce8195d30e34515cc3)
Coil Spring - Control arm - Shock/Coilover Bracket System - Pair (http://madmfg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=323&zenid=edfc1538181a68ce8195d30e34515cc3)


$90.00


Is that what you orderd?

And I was thinking about the Claytons brackets but damn, can you get anything more expensive? Or is it worth the price in the long run? I myself can't weld worth a shit so Im paying someone to weld everything on and then I will do the install myself. And just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has helped me out.

zj95maxx
02-27-2008, 06:41 AM
All my brackets are from Ballistic Fabrication

grandmaster
02-27-2008, 10:24 AM
All my brackets are from Ballistic Fabrication

Can you post up the parts that you used? Like part numbers or pictures or something so I can get the right bracket.

greenhunter
02-27-2008, 10:55 AM
I got my tabs and buckets from Ruffstuff (www.ruffstuffspecialties.com) and I couldn't have been happier when it comes to customer service.

Things I got:
Coil buckets (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=190{12}25) (offset to alleviate spring bow)
4 long tabs (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/link-tab-30-axle-long-p-14.html) for the uppers
4 medium tabs (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/link-tab-30-axle-medium-p-15.html) for the lowers

And got the Flange (http://www.shaftmasters.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=148) elsewhere. Not too expensive from there.

I also ordered a panhard bracket from Ruffstuff, but ended up reusing my stock one. I can (and will) return it for a refund or credit, depending on if I buy their beef diff cover (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/ford-88-differential-cover-p-180.html) or go with a Riddler (http://www.rokmen.com/products/differential_protection/riddler_diff_covers/riddler_diff_covers.html).

zj95maxx
02-27-2008, 02:33 PM
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/coilplatec.jpg

24.99. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Coil-plate-mounts-with-retainers-both-sides_p_32-1179.html


I have these up top to hold the coil. 29.99
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/framecoilmount2.jpg
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Coil-spring-Frame-mount-with-retainers_p_32-1478.html

Here are my Control arm mounts
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/brackets/linksuspensionbrackets/axletubezero3.jpg
27.99
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Lower-axle-link-brackets_p_24-1397.html

grandmaster
02-27-2008, 04:19 PM
Well so far it looks like ballistic is the way to go, pretty cheap, and I know they make quality products. Thanks for posting pictures and links, it helps out a lot. As far as these go, what is the purpose, do I need them, or can I go without?

I have these up top to hold the coil. 29.99
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/assets/images/framecoilmount2.jpg
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...p_32-1478.html (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Coil-spring-Frame-mount-with-retainers_p_32-1478.html)

Medicjaycook
02-27-2008, 04:28 PM
new to the forums, but this seems to be the site for heavy modding, I have a 8.8 sitting in my basement ready for brackets, I like the look of the balistics and seems to be alot cheeper then buying a MORE kit. I am having a local fab shop do all the measuring and welding, if i buy those brackets is that all i need for the UCA and LCA and spring perches?? is there anything special they are going to have to do them as in modding them to make my axle sit right? what are ya guys using for trac bar brackets?? ect.


Jason

grandmaster
02-28-2008, 12:54 AM
Ok well, if your going to a long arm kit you will most likely have a truss which means a 4 link suspension, which also means the track bar is eliminated. If your not going to the long arm kit you will need UCA, LCA, Buckets, Shock mounts, and a track bar mount. Im sure you can find a track bar mount on ballistics. All the 4X4 shop will do is set your pinion at a certain degree, 11 seems to be popular, and then set your perches and mounts at 0 degrees, or right on top of your axle depending on how you look at it. They shouldn't have to do anything else to make it fit right as long as you order the right bracket, which i believe is for a 3.25" axle. Correct me if im wrong on any of this.

egg
02-28-2008, 01:16 AM
I got my tabs and buckets from Ruffstuff (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com) and I couldn't have been happier when it comes to customer service.

Things I got:
Coil buckets (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=190%7B12%7D25) (offset to alleviate spring bow)
4 long tabs (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/link-tab-30-axle-long-p-14.html) for the uppers
4 medium tabs (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/link-tab-30-axle-medium-p-15.html) for the lowers

have you had a chance to wheel your jeep with this setup yet? I've been thinking of doing the same thing but I don't know how big a deal it is to change the angles of the short arms, thanks man.

DansZJ
02-28-2008, 02:31 AM
So DansZJ what brackets exactly did you buy from http://mad4wd.com/ (http://mad4wd.com/%20all) all I can find is the control arm, bucket, and shock mount all in one.



http://madmfg.com/bmz_cache/e/e26ca5e0decdd60b59b0986e52f3ed8c.image.129x111.jpg (http://madmfg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=323&zenid=edfc1538181a68ce8195d30e34515cc3)
Coil Spring - Control arm - Shock/Coilover Bracket System - Pair (http://madmfg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=23&products_id=323&zenid=edfc1538181a68ce8195d30e34515cc3)


$90.00


Is that what you orderd?

And I was thinking about the Claytons brackets but damn, can you get anything more expensive? Or is it worth the price in the long run? I myself can't weld worth a shit so Im paying someone to weld everything on and then I will do the install myself. And just wanted to say thanks to everyone who has helped me out.

For some reason they don't have it on their site but he has them in stock ready to ship. Brown dropped my kit off today and I ordered it Friday.
Here is a photo of their kit:
3390
I liked that it had everything included and at $225 I thought it was a good deal.

I'm glad everyone is posting up the fabricators, part #s and combination of brackets they bought. AW's thread is constantly growing and makes for a great reference. :smt023:smt023

Now if I can only find someone to machine my 3/4" spacers.

AprilzWarrior
02-28-2008, 11:00 AM
Why not check out Claytons Axle Bracket kits...

All made from 1/4" Plate and all high clearence. Nothing hanging below axle tubes !

greenhunter
02-28-2008, 11:22 AM
have you had a chance to wheel your jeep with this setup yet? I've been thinking of doing the same thing but I don't know how big a deal it is to change the angles of the short arms, thanks man.

Nothing serious, yet. I've played on a gravel pile or two just to watch the suspension cycle and haven't seen any problems arise. Really, the only change is how far away the control arm bolt holes are from center of the axle tube. Given the difference in tube diameter (3.25" on the 8.8, 2.62" on the 35), my lower mounts were a little bit longer by ~1/2" and the uppers were shorter by less than 1/8" compare to stock. I'm using adjustable control arms, so the angles can be fixed if need be. Just make sure to use an angle finder and measure a lot before welding it on fully.

Edit: I modified the shock mounts and had to put them inboard a little. Not the best setup and I might have to redo it. You can see in the pic bellow (zip ties are temporary until I find the right type of clips).

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj138/lawnjockey613/8.8.jpg

5.9 ANDY
02-28-2008, 11:29 AM
Why not check out Claytons Axle Bracket kits...

All made from 1/4" Plate and all high clearence. Nothing hanging below axle tubes !



oooo, fancy schmancey bracks that dont hang, i likee those.

grandmaster
02-28-2008, 06:40 PM
So do they sell a kit like this one that doesnt have upper controll arm mounts? Cuz it would cut the cost down, and I really dont need them.

Also thought about calytons, but damn, expensive.

Im really leaning towards ballitstics though.

Cue-Ball
02-28-2008, 06:44 PM
Why not check out Claytons Axle Bracket kits...

All made from 1/4" Plate and all high clearence. Nothing hanging below axle tubes !

That's what is on my new 8.8 (still sitting in AW's shop, one day it will get installed :confused: )

egg
02-29-2008, 01:01 AM
Nothing serious, yet. I've played on a gravel pile or two just to watch the suspension cycle and haven't seen any problems arise. Really, the only change is how far away the control arm bolt holes are from center of the axle tube. Given the difference in tube diameter (3.25" on the 8.8, 2.62" on the 35), my lower mounts were a little bit longer by ~1/2" and the uppers were shorter by less than 1/8" compare to stock. I'm using adjustable control arms, so the angles can be fixed if need be. Just make sure to use an angle finder and measure a lot before welding it on fully.

Edit: I modified the shock mounts and had to put them inboard a little. Not the best setup and I might have to redo it. You can see in the pic bellow (zip ties are temporary until I find the right type of clips).

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj138/lawnjockey613/8.8.jpg

Thanks for the input dude! thats exactly what I wanted to hear. I'm glad someone else had the same idea as me and has gone through with it. I'm getting all pumped for this wheelin season, no more turdy5!

sevenslats
03-01-2008, 11:48 PM
Anyone have any trouble re-installing the stock ZJ sway bar on an 8.8? If it's truly 1.25" narrower, is there room between the coil bucket and the brake backing plate for a sway bar bracket?

grandmaster
03-02-2008, 01:52 AM
I dont run a rear sway bar right now and have had no trouble. With how much lift you are at you are probably fine without one. I haven't installed my 8.8 yet so I cant help ya there.

AprilzWarrior
03-02-2008, 02:13 AM
Anyone have any trouble re-installing the stock ZJ sway bar on an 8.8? If it's truly 1.25" narrower, is there room between the coil bucket and the brake backing plate for a sway bar bracket?


If you go to page ONE, and check out the pics, you can see the factory sway bar attached to my old 8.8 No problems.


AW

sevenslats
03-03-2008, 03:15 AM
If you go to page ONE, and check out the pics, you can see the factory sway bar attached to my old 8.8 No problems.


AW


Yeah, I stared and squinted at your pics for several minutes. I couldn't tell for sure. I guess 5/8ths each side isn't all that much.

jeepinchiro
03-06-2008, 01:38 PM
I just got around to seeing your 8.8 upgrade........great job!! I want to do the same upgrade in TJ, but I had a few concerns (actually I just posted a thread on this same topic which I am sure I will get bitched at for) anyway, where did you get your axle brackets for the 8.8 at? Also, how did you decide on the 11 degree pinion angle? Thanks for any input.

AprilzWarrior
03-06-2008, 01:49 PM
I just got around to seeing your 8.8 upgrade........great job!! I want to do the same upgrade in TJ, but I had a few concerns (actually I just posted a thread on this same topic which I am sure I will get bitched at for) anyway, where did you get your axle brackets for the 8.8 at? Also, how did you decide on the 11 degree pinion angle? Thanks for any input.


Off the D35 donor.

Pinion angle is determined by the type of drive shaft you have. See Tom Woods website.

Dirtdiver
03-18-2008, 08:47 PM
Hey AprilzWarrior, I have Grand that I am swaping a 8.8 and I was wondering that if I had to get wheelspacer even with my rims that are 15-8s with about 4" backspacing? All the input would be great.

BigDaveZJ
03-18-2008, 08:52 PM
Dirtdiver, my wheels have 4" backspacing as well but it's definitely nice to have the spacers there since the 8.8 is 5/8" narrower on each side.

Dirtdiver
03-18-2008, 09:00 PM
Dirtdiver, my wheels have 4" backspacing as well but it's definitely nice to have the spacers there since the 8.8 is 5/8" narrower on each side. Now is it needed or is it an absolute must.

grandmaster
03-18-2008, 10:28 PM
Dont have my 8.8 in yet, but i dont think they are NEEDED. you might run into some rubbing issues when your suspension articulates, but if it were me i would just spent the 90 bucks and get some spacers. Hell you could probably find some used ones if you looked hard enough, but who knows.

zj95
03-18-2008, 11:16 PM
I hate spacers.... I have em.... i dont run themmm ... i need to sell them

not worth it... and you really dont notice the width diff unless i point it out

AprilzWarrior
03-19-2008, 12:46 AM
I hate spacers.... I have em.... i dont run themmm ... i need to sell them

not worth it... and you really dont notice the width diff unless i point it out



Well my tires would rub without the spacers. To each his own.

Dirtdiver
03-19-2008, 12:46 AM
How much you looking to get for them

Dirtdiver
03-19-2008, 12:47 AM
Its not that I dont wnat them I'm just looking if I really need them. I could spend the money on something else.

Dirtdiver
03-19-2008, 12:49 AM
AW, I have a question about the brakets on your build. My bracket kit is from RE and there for a TJ, and you have yours from a d35, have you needed to reinforce them or the welds bust. I ask this cuz my buddie has tried to fit those RE upper and lower CA brackets and there haked to shit so I am thinking of just using the ones from my D35. Any suggestions.

DJJordache
03-19-2008, 10:00 AM
I dont use any spacers on my heep.... it's close but doesn't rub. with 15x8 wheels and 4" BS

AprilzWarrior
03-22-2008, 02:27 AM
AW, I have a question about the brakets on your build. My bracket kit is from RE and there for a TJ, and you have yours from a d35, have you needed to reinforce them or the welds bust. I ask this cuz my buddie has tried to fit those RE upper and lower CA brackets and there haked to shit so I am thinking of just using the ones from my D35. Any suggestions.



If you look at all my old pics you can see that I added steel to most all of them for more strength, ie to keep from just twisting a ripping above my welds.

If you have the funds, call ClaytonOffroad and pick up a rear axle bracket kit. This moves your lower control arms up and level with the axle tubes rather than hanging below the tubes. Same goes for the shock mounts.

SirFuego
03-28-2008, 10:35 AM
Why not check out Claytons Axle Bracket kits...

All made from 1/4" Plate and all high clearence. Nothing hanging below axle tubes !

I'm planning on this for mine, but I noticed on the website that the high clearance bracket kit has triangulated shock mounting brackets. Does that mean that it also comes with the crossmember for the upper shock mounts, or would that need to be fabbed? I was under the impression that it just relocated the stock shock mounts?

EDIT: Copy/pasted from Clayton's website:

This is a complete replacement rear axle bracket kit. It can be used on either a new axle that is being installed or simply a replacement for your current brackets. The kit offers an innovative spring locking plate, reinforced high clearance LCA mounts and triangulated shock mouting brackets.

DansZJ
03-28-2008, 08:23 PM
I'm planning on this for mine, but I noticed on the website that the high clearance bracket kit has triangulated shock mounting brackets. Does that mean that it also comes with the crossmember for the upper shock mounts, or would that need to be fabbed? I was under the impression that it just relocated the stock shock mounts?

EDIT: Copy/pasted from Clayton's website:

Hey Fuego,
I really like their brackets for the reason that AW mentions. I was ready to buy them but I talked to Adam over at Clayton's and he explained that there is a cross member that gets installed to the frame and relocates the upper shock mounts. This is interferes with the track bar, so it wouldn't work with stock setup/short arms.

SirFuego
03-29-2008, 02:09 AM
Hey Fuego,
I really like their brackets for the reason that AW mentions. I was ready to buy them but I talked to Adam over at Clayton's and he explained that there is a cross member that gets installed to the frame and relocates the upper shock mounts. This is interferes with the track bar, so it wouldn't work with stock setup/short arms.

Yeah that's not an issue since I'm going with Clayton's 4 link anyways. I didn't realize it had triangulated shock mounts until today. Definitely happy about this since the thought of triangulating them crossed my mind anyways....

Thanks for the info.

cLAYH
04-19-2008, 11:52 AM
I wouldn't reuse the original D35 mounts. I reused the original D30 mounts on my D44 and regretted it later. The right side mount snapped off the axle while crawling around in Green Day.

The weld didn't snap, the mount actually broke.


http://www.fourwheelstampeders.ca/albums/MOAB-2007/DSC_0425_3.jpg

Make or buy new ones.

Dirtdiver
04-19-2008, 01:52 PM
Just need to reuse the coilbuckets and the uppercontrolarm and tracbar mount, the rest I think I will fab myself.

zj95maxx
04-19-2008, 08:52 PM
Don't cheap out, spend the like...50 bucks on brackets it would take.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b37/chewning37/alongarm004.jpg

ballistic fab. beef.

ATL ZJ
04-19-2008, 08:58 PM
I still run the d35 mounts on the 8.8 under my buggy and they work fine.

But I don't wheel very hard. ;)

BigDaveZJ
05-02-2008, 01:01 PM
So what are you guys doing for diff breathers on the 8.8? I was pulling mine last night to do the gears and notice there's no breather at all on the diff housing anywhere. I seem to remember there being a breather on the tube right about where the truss went that I might have welded shut, but figured it wouldn't have done much good there anyways. Right now I'm planning on just drilling a hole through the thinnest part of the housing I can find (on the top obviously) and hooking a hose up to it.

Varkyl
05-02-2008, 03:16 PM
So what are you guys doing for diff breathers on the 8.8? I was pulling mine last night to do the gears and notice there's no breather at all on the diff housing anywhere. I seem to remember there being a breather on the tube right about where the truss went that I might have welded shut, but figured it wouldn't have done much good there anyways. Right now I'm planning on just drilling a hole through the thinnest part of the housing I can find (on the top obviously) and hooking a hose up to it.

If your going to do this, drill the hole off to the side so you don't end up getting oil flung into the breather hole. As that could drag contaminants into the lube.

DJJordache
05-02-2008, 09:17 PM
I thought I was being smart and I clocked it forward before (did it a little to much) I welded the truss on but it came back to bite me in the ass when I went to bolt it up. but I managed to still make it work by extending the arms to aim everything correctly:D but I still have the stock dif breather on mine

Dirtdiver
05-03-2008, 01:06 AM
So what are you guys doing for diff breathers on the 8.8? I was pulling mine last night to do the gears and notice there's no breather at all on the diff housing anywhere. I seem to remember there being a breather on the tube right about where the truss went that I might have welded shut, but figured it wouldn't have done much good there anyways. Right now I'm planning on just drilling a hole through the thinnest part of the housing I can find (on the top obviously) and hooking a hose up to it.
What about drilling and taping on the front side of the axle where the dif fliuid filler bolt on the housing near the drive line? My tech lingo sucks I know.

Sudz
05-03-2008, 06:40 PM
So what are you guys doing for diff breathers on the 8.8?
clayton's truss covers the 8.8 oem vent loco so i welded the threaded hole closed - welded on my truss - tapped a new hole and moved the oem plug to this spot - works fine

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c364/-Sudz/100_0682.jpg

Derek33
05-04-2008, 07:32 PM
this question was probably answered in this thread, but i couldnt find it by browsing through.

is there a primary year/model explorer to look for that comes with 3.73's and disks? im bitching out and trying to do as minimal work as possible.

the junkyard i go to doesnt let you browse, you have to go there with a specific car youre looking for and they walk you to the car.

DansZJ
05-04-2008, 08:15 PM
car-part.com - I used it to find my 8.8. If they don't list your junk yards, you can still use it to see which models have what options.
I got my 8.8 from a 97 Explorer. Had disks, factory LSD, and 3.73's.

If you do a search here on MC, someone recently posted a good link with all the 8.8 tag codes.

Derek33
05-04-2008, 09:23 PM
wow! great site, thanks for the link.

BigDaveZJ
05-04-2008, 10:53 PM
So stupid me didn't know until today that rear axle are sealed at the flange, not on the pumpkin like front axles. So I'll probably just drill through the tube somewhere.

Varkyl
05-05-2008, 10:38 AM
So stupid me didn't know until today that rear axle are sealed at the flange, not on the pumpkin like front axles. So I'll probably just drill through the tube somewhere.

Learn something new everyday huh?

Maltair
05-14-2008, 03:44 AM
So I'm using the ballistic brackets. The coil bucket is flat. Do I need something molded so the coil stays in place or will the plate and a bolt work?
Back on page 3 or so, someone was talking about claytons and there was this
"on top of that you mount a UHMW (white plastic) disk that has the coil profile milled into it and a center thru hole"

Do I need something like that?

DansZJ
05-14-2008, 04:07 PM
I'm using the MORE style brackets with the flat spring pad on the axle as well. The springs shift on the pad, but do not fall out/off with the retaining washer and bolt. I'd like to get a spring pad like the Claytons, but I'll probably make a new retainer that holds the spring in place using the supplied bolt/washer.

SirFuego
05-14-2008, 04:40 PM
Hey Fuego,
I really like their brackets for the reason that AW mentions. I was ready to buy them but I talked to Adam over at Clayton's and he explained that there is a cross member that gets installed to the frame and relocates the upper shock mounts. This is interferes with the track bar, so it wouldn't work with stock setup/short arms.
Just to validate this, I received my 8.8 brackets from Clayton's a few days ago and it did indeed come with the upper and lower mounts for triangulated shocks. Very high quality brackets.

Perhaps the upper shock mount piece is part of the reason Clayton's is more expensive than other options?

grandmaster
05-14-2008, 11:04 PM
I would PM Maxx, he did the swap using ballistics. He could probably help ya out.

Derek33
05-21-2008, 01:57 PM
the links are a bit outdated on the origional write up. does anyone know where i can find the 5/8" spacers?

nate
05-21-2008, 02:02 PM
Yeah if you didn't get gear oil to the wheel bearings you'd have to pack them with grease like on front axles.


So stupid me didn't know until today that rear axle are sealed at the flange, not on the pumpkin like front axles. So I'll probably just drill through the tube somewhere.

Derek33
05-21-2008, 03:50 PM
these look ok?

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3442,188_Billet-Aluminum-Wheel-Spacers.html

grandmaster
05-21-2008, 09:31 PM
I wouldnt use them. I would get something that is at least hub centric and fits your bolt pattern. not all 3 or 4. And after reading the reviews on the spidertrax wheel spacers, there is no other way to go. So that is what i will be ordering here within the next month.

AprilzWarrior
05-22-2008, 01:20 AM
the links are a bit outdated on the origional write up. does anyone know where i can find the 5/8" spacers?


Stagewest4x4.com is where I got them. Thier site is currently down. They are still around, I see ads in Mags.

BigDaveZJ
05-22-2008, 10:14 AM
Stagewest4x4.com is where I got them. Thier site is currently down. They are still around, I see ads in Mags.


You sure? I thought they closed down? I know I at least remember somethng about Joel getting out of the biz.

AprilzWarrior
05-22-2008, 10:25 AM
You sure? I thought they closed down? I know I at least remember somethng about Joel getting out of the biz.


Well I dont know then. I just saw their ad in my Diesel Power Mag. Hmmm Wouldnt be the first time that stuff happens.

DansZJ
05-22-2008, 10:27 PM
the links are a bit outdated on the origional write up. does anyone know where i can find the 5/8" spacers?

I searched for 5/8 spacers but couldn't source any, so I went with 3/4" spacers from eBay. The pair was $40 shipped (he combines shipping). Seller is Kratter (http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/kratter/).
Here is a link to the spacers: eBay 3/4" Spacers (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290017540548)
They fit nice and tight on the bolt pattern. I have no complaints/concerns.

Here's some info for you guys concerned about the ARP wheel studs being a little too big. We have a lathe at the shop that's a PITA to setup. So I searched for other wheel studs that would be a bit smaller, but would still give you the extended length.
Here is the ARP 100-7703 specs:
Size - 1/2"-20 by 3" long
.625'' Knurl Wheel StudsI found the Moroso 46180 wheel studs. The specs are:
Size: 1/2"-20 by 2 7/8" press-in studs
.615" knurl and quick start dog endI used a press to get them installed, but they went in nicely.

3468

Derek33
06-05-2008, 04:42 PM
what kind of press do you guys use to get the studs into place. any links to a place where i can buy one?

ive been trying the impact wrench and washer trick but it just chews up my threads.

greenhunter
06-15-2008, 06:56 PM
If you have the shafts out, you could throw it in a vice with a deep socket that will fit over the studs.

DansZJ
06-15-2008, 09:08 PM
what kind of press do you guys use to get the studs into place. any links to a place where i can buy one?

ive been trying the impact wrench and washer trick but it just chews up my threads.

Similar to this, but not HF. If you don't do a lot of stuff requiring a press, don't buy one, should only be a few bucks to have it done at a machine shop.

greenhunter
06-18-2008, 10:04 PM
Just got my cover from RuffStuff. Beef.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj138/lawnjockey613/DSC_1478Small.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj138/lawnjockey613/DSC_1479Small.jpg

Shipped fast, I know the lip won't ever peel, and Dan has some of the best customer service in the business.

egg
06-19-2008, 12:15 AM
hey greenhunter, the long tabs I got for my upper control arms are drilled out too big for my rubicon express superflex joints, did you ask Dan at ruff stuff to drill 'em smaller?

grandmaster
06-19-2008, 12:43 AM
How much? I need one too!

greenhunter
06-19-2008, 10:39 PM
Egg, I didn't have any trouble with my upper tabs. The way they came, they fit just fine with the superflex adj. arms and bolts that I'm using. You could weld some thick washers with the correct hole size onto the outside of the tabs and use some longer bolts, a simple two-dollar fix.

Grandmaster, I paid $130 shipped to my door with countersunk holes and a drainplug, but I had a discount code from an earlier refund snafu that he took care of promptly. Full price for the assembled one would run ~$150 shipped, but if you want to save some money and know how to weld, you could get the unassembled kit and burn it together yourself. Also, I think the ring-thickness of the welded one is a typo on the website, mine's not 1/2". 3/8" all around isn't anything to scoff at, though, as I doubt i'll ever damage it beyond marring the surface a little.

BuschLight
06-20-2008, 03:38 PM
Just got my cover from RuffStuff. Beef.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj138/lawnjockey613/DSC_1478Small.jpg
http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj138/lawnjockey613/DSC_1479Small.jpg

Shipped fast, I know the lip won't ever peel, and Dan has some of the best customer service in the business.

I also like these guys. Quality beef.... I have one for my turdy... I thinks it's stronger than the axle:smt005

Cue-Ball
06-20-2008, 03:45 PM
Guys I am also a RuffStuff dealer and have some great pricing options worked out with Dan (the owner of RSS), so let me know if you need anything.

Dirk

grandmaster
06-28-2008, 01:39 AM
Its been a while sence ive read through the entire thread, but i dont remember reading anything about the flange. What have people been using to adapt the flange for the driveshaft??

Derek33
06-28-2008, 11:09 AM
Its been a while sence ive read through the entire thread, but i dont remember reading anything about the flange. What have people been using to adapt the flange for the driveshaft??

http://madmfg.com/drivetrain-1/ford-axle-parts-114/yokes-120/8-8-1310-conversion-yoke-kit-340.html

grandmaster
06-28-2008, 05:53 PM
Thanks

wheelinzj93
06-28-2008, 08:59 PM
How did you connect the brake lines from the 8.8 to the zj.

What are some good brake combos for a disk set up?

Is a lock rite reliable or should i go with the detroit? i just need some feed back so i can build my axle right.

grandmaster
06-28-2008, 09:44 PM
you can use the calipers and brake lines from the d35 to go on the 8.8 so you dont really need to worry about that. Lockrite is more of a lunch box locker, probably a bit better for the street. I would go with a detroit if its just for wheelin.

greenhunter
06-29-2008, 03:33 PM
http://madmfg.com/drivetrain-1/ford-axle-parts-114/yokes-120/8-8-1310-conversion-yoke-kit-340.html

Too pricey.

http://www.shaftmasters.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=148

grandmaster
06-29-2008, 03:58 PM
Even better, im short on money so the cheaper the better. Thanks

Derek33
06-29-2008, 05:18 PM
i ordered mine from shaftmasters.... didn't come with the 4 bolts. ended up paying 3.50 a bolt at a ford dealership.

egg
06-29-2008, 05:45 PM
for the flange, http://www.alljeep.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=167208

they have the moroso wheel studs too, for using aluminum ebay spacer
http://www.alljeep.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=69522

zj95
06-29-2008, 06:27 PM
WTF at thread title

wheelinzj93
06-29-2008, 06:44 PM
i don't know about the thread title it took me a while to find it. about the brakes...i currently have drum brakes and my 8.8 is disk. so i have the hard and soft lines for both axles. is there an adapter for the brake lines to go from the soft line at the jeep to go to the 8.8 disk.

Derek33
06-29-2008, 07:15 PM
Im soon to install my 8.8

people mention d35 brakes work on the 8.8. is that the same with d44 brakes?

greenhunter
06-30-2008, 01:00 AM
i ordered mine from shaftmasters.... didn't come with the 4 bolts. ended up paying 3.50 a bolt at a ford dealership.

I paid less than that for 4 10.9s plus lock washers at the local hardware shop. People call them stealerships for a reason.


i don't know about the thread title it took me a while to find it. about the brakes...i currently have drum brakes and my 8.8 is disk. so i have the hard and soft lines for both axles. is there an adapter for the brake lines to go from the soft line at the jeep to go to the 8.8 disk.

Compare the thread size and pitch of your stock lines and the Ford lines. You might not need any adapters.

On a similar note, do you know if your drum brakes are set up the same as disc? I'm probably wrong, but there may be a difference in pressure and brake timing between the two. That might cause some complications. Someone wiser should chime in and tell me if I'm way off.


Im soon to install my 8.8

people mention d35 brakes work on the 8.8. is that the same with d44 brakes?

I helped a friend replace his rear brakes on his 5.9 and they were identical to the 8.8 and my d35. Unless 5.9 44s are different than every other ZJ 44, they should be the same. Call Autozone and ask them to pull up the part numbers for 8.8 and al44 calipers.

haymaker
09-13-2008, 03:13 PM
Allright I've read this entire thread countless times. I am just about ready to make my axle swap. I ordered LCA, spring perch, and shock mount brackets from TNT customs. I still need to find upper control arm brackets and a track bar bracket. Does anybody know a place that will have what I need? I'm just running short arms and I don't want to run into any of the problems that the TJ brackets can possibly bring. What will work for me with the least amount of dicking around?

Dirtdiver
09-13-2008, 07:13 PM
Ruffstuffs track bar bracket is what I am using, Dan is really good to talk to about what you might need.

greenhunter
09-13-2008, 08:59 PM
Allright I've read this entire thread countless times. I am just about ready to make my axle swap. I ordered LCA, spring perch, and shock mount brackets from TNT customs. I still need to find upper control arm brackets and a track bar bracket. Does anybody know a place that will have what I need? I'm just running short arms and I don't want to run into any of the problems that the TJ brackets can possibly bring. What will work for me with the least amount of dicking around?

Read it again, it's been addressed in several ways by several people.

egg
09-13-2008, 10:47 PM
Allright I've read this entire thread countless times. I am just about ready to make my axle swap. I ordered LCA, spring perch, and shock mount brackets from TNT customs. I still need to find upper control arm brackets and a track bar bracket. Does anybody know a place that will have what I need? I'm just running short arms and I don't want to run into any of the problems that the TJ brackets can possibly bring. What will work for me with the least amount of dicking around?


if you currently have a jks track bar, you can get this: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/offest-panhard-bracket-p-240.html mount it in between the pumpkin and upper control arm mount, then replace the end with a heim joint. worked like a charm for me.

haymaker
09-14-2008, 01:32 PM
if you currently have a jks track bar, you can get this: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/offest-panhard-bracket-p-240.html mount it in between the pumpkin and upper control arm mount, then replace the end with a heim joint. worked like a charm for me.

I do actually have a JKS rear track bar I plan on running. I don't think I really want to have to mess around with it that much though. Thanks for the ruffstuff link dirtdiver and egg. I hadn't heard of them before. I might just have to give Dan there a call and see what he can do for me.


Green hunter-nobody really says what to do if your running short arms like me. TJ shock brackets are angled more than the ZJ ones which cause lots of problems on short arms, Also the coil buckets are quite a bit different. Nobody really discusses these issues in detail and its the stuff I need to know. Why does one guy always have to make a jackass comment?

greenhunter
09-15-2008, 10:52 PM
Green hunter-nobody really says what to do if your running short arms like me. TJ shock brackets are angled more than the ZJ ones which cause lots of problems on short arms, Also the coil buckets are quite a bit different. Nobody really discusses these issues in detail and its the stuff I need to know. Why does one guy always have to make a jackass comment?

Post #149

I got my tabs and buckets from Ruffstuff (www.ruffstuffspecialties.com) and I couldn't have been happier when it comes to customer service.

Things I got:
Coil buckets (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=190{12}25) (offset to alleviate spring bow)
4 long tabs (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/link-tab-30-axle-long-p-14.html) for the uppers
4 medium tabs (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/link-tab-30-axle-medium-p-15.html) for the lowers

And got the Flange (http://www.shaftmasters.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=148) elsewhere. Not too expensive from there.

I also ordered a panhard bracket from Ruffstuff, but ended up reusing my stock one. I can (and will) return it for a refund or credit, depending on if I buy their beef diff cover (http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/ford-88-differential-cover-p-180.html) or go with a Riddler (http://www.rokmen.com/products/differential_protection/riddler_diff_covers/riddler_diff_covers.html).


One post, seven months back, offered the answers you wanted, and if you actually read the thread like you claimed, you would have seen it. Can you seriously say that you didn't notice that stuff if you actually read the whole thread countless times? Or that AprilzWarrior started the whole thing with a write-up on how to make it work with a stock 5-link? What about Maxx offering links and pics for what he was using, which would only take a smidgen of creativity to work with whatever scenario you're dealing with? I personally take it as an insult that what I posted was beneath your notice.

In case you weren't aware, this isn't JU. Nobody has to hand you the solution. You have to look for it, use your brain a little, solve problems for yourself. My only regret is that I'm so late in offering you this:

Welcome to Mallcrawlin, eat shit.

haymaker
09-17-2008, 02:14 PM
Post #149



One post, seven months back, offered the answers you wanted, and if you actually read the thread like you claimed, you would have seen it. Can you seriously say that you didn't notice that stuff if you actually read the whole thread countless times? Or that AprilzWarrior started the whole thing with a write-up on how to make it work with a stock 5-link? What about Maxx offering links and pics for what he was using, which would only take a smidgen of creativity to work with whatever scenario you're dealing with? I personally take it as an insult that what I posted was beneath your notice.

In case you weren't aware, this isn't JU. Nobody has to hand you the solution. You have to look for it, use your brain a little, solve problems for yourself. My only regret is that I'm so late in offering you this:

Welcome to Mallcrawlin, eat shit.

I know how to make it work, I just don't want to make it work with TJ brackets, nor do I want to make it work with universal brackets if I can help it. I want ZJ specific brackets and thats what I was looking for. If I was doing it myself I wouldn't care so much but unfortunatley I don't own a welder nor do I have a place to weld, or a place and the knowledge to put a rear end together. This means I have to take all my 8.8 shit to a shop and tell a guy to do it. I don't want to take any risks with him turning out to be an idiot or something with some crazy brackets, I want something I know he ain't gonna have to fuck with. So lick my booty hole, theres no need for your douchebaggery.

edit for PS- I called ruffstuff and they said they didn't have anything for the upper control arm mounts yet but they were about to get their first batch in at the end of the week..If I remember what he said correctly the 10 degree link brackets are the ones I need. =

Double edit/double PS- I got my TNT brackets today. They look very nice, and they got here quick!! Hopefully they will be nice and easy to work with

snarfer86
02-24-2009, 05:24 PM
if you currently have a jks track bar, you can get this: http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/offest-panhard-bracket-p-240.html mount it in between the pumpkin and upper control arm mount, then replace the end with a heim joint. worked like a charm for me.

What size heim and where did you go for that?

RuggleS
05-05-2009, 11:41 PM
ok i need some info on some brackets. im planning to get all my stuff from ballistic, i know wat LCA mounts im using and the coil buckets to. wat UCA mounts are ppl using? and track bar mounts? im setting up the mounts the same as they woyuld be stock, just done want to reuse the the stock mounts
i was looking at these, but they seem to be to tall.
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Link-Tower_p_1398.html

these are the coil buckets and LCA mounts i was planning to use, am i good with these?
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Lower-axle-link-brackets_p_1397.html
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Coil-plate-mounts-with-retainers-_p_1179.html

Wilder
05-07-2009, 12:37 AM
I just finished doing an 8.8 conversion in my 94 ZJ.. i used a Kit made locally up in British Columbia, Canada.. Granted the kit was designed for a TJ, some simple mods are needed to make it work for a ZJ..

Link to the kit : http://www.bcjeepclub.ca/index.php/topic,1864.0.html

Shot of my diff before the track bar mount
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h285/Wilder21/jeep/DSC04678.jpg

Shot of the modified stock track bar with the TJ brackets used as reinforcement
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h285/Wilder21/jeep/DSC04705.jpg



All ready to be installed
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h285/Wilder21/jeep/DSC04707.jpg

Link to my build, or the endless junk i toss at it..
http://www.bcjeepclub.ca/index.php/topic,459.0.html

dp96zj
11-12-2009, 06:18 PM
For future reference, carrier bearings are interchangeable with all 8.8 models. Wheel bearings, however, should be bought specifically for the vehicle that the axle came from (explorer, etc). I was swapping the 8.8 under my rig, looking at mustang wheel bearings, but found out they don't fit my explorer 8.8, since both the tube and shafts are bigger than the 'stang.


Explorer Bearing Size ('98 model)
ITEM : R1559-TV
WEIGHT : 0.53
WIDTH : 0.83
OD : 2.53
ID : 1.62
TYPE : OR
CONST : CYL BRG

Mustang Bearing Size ('98 model)
ITEM : R1563-TAV
WEIGHT : 0.37
WIDTH : 0.70
OD : 2.25
ID : 1.40
TYPE : OR
CONST : CYL BRG


Here is a link to SKF Bearing / CR seals online catalog (http://vsm.skf.com/en-US/Catalog/AutoOnlineCatalog.aspx) if you wanted to check using the actual (correct?) make & model info.
The site mentioned above is a great source to find out info like this, it's really easy to navigate. It's good for finding specifics about sizes of certain auto parts.

Brad S
01-11-2010, 09:57 PM
1st page pic hosting expired

Saleen4971
08-18-2010, 03:40 PM
read through this thread a few times - im looking for stock-style mounts for everything. im going to go with the claytons spring perch, most likely get the CA and shock mounts from MORE, but i cant seem to find a stock style trac-bar mount anywhere?

any help on this guys?

rodd88
10-27-2010, 02:10 PM
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235261
Specs:
Code Capacity Ratio
43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional Differential

DJJordache
10-27-2010, 07:45 PM
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=235261
Specs:
Code Capacity Ratio
43 Open 3200 3.08
41 Open 3200 3.27
42 Open 4.10
46 Open 3.73
45 Open 3200 3.55
D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
D2 Limited Slip 4.10
L73 Limited Slip 3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional Differential
old crappy info...

the only thing that matters is that you get it from an exploder
that it has disk brakes
and the tag will be of this format:
3 73= 3.73 gears without limited slip
3L73= 3.73 gears with limited slip
AKA ratio and with or without limited slip

lateralus3
02-27-2011, 07:57 AM
OP do you still have all of the pictures from the swap?

edit:also do you need to bend your own brakelines or can you use the stock explorer ones?

SUICIDE
03-02-2011, 09:00 PM
x2^^^ would really like to see the pics as iam getting ready to do the swap on mine.

lateralus3
03-06-2011, 11:34 AM
shit i didn't realize that the OP hasn't logged in since 12/14/2010

SirFuego
07-13-2011, 03:37 PM
Looks like Yukon now has an "Ultimate 88"...
http://www.ringpinion.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=10255&Product=YA_WF88-31-KIT&Brand=Yukon_Gear_and_Axle

cowboy63b
07-13-2011, 08:09 PM
holy crap, this thread has been living for 7 years.

firehawkclone
07-16-2011, 08:34 PM
holy crap, this thread has been living for 7 years.And it's still being used. I was reading this alot in doing my conversion. I have been driving on it, but I have a cover, spacers, studs, and new brakes to finish it off. Just need time off now. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v635/firehawkclone/af31fc96.jpg