PDA

View Full Version : ZJ 231 Swap



BigDaveZJ
06-27-2004, 08:49 PM
ZJ 249-231 Swap FAQ Write-Up

So you’re sick of that POS 249 and want a real t-case? Here’s how to do it. First, I’ll run through some of the reasons why people swap in a 231.


Low-Lock
The 93-95 249’s still rely on the viscous coupler to transfer power while in 4Lo. This presents a major problem off road as the front and rear driveshafts are NOT locked together. This issue is most apparent when attempting to climb a steep obstacle. With the weight off of the front tires, a majority of the power is sent to the front because they are easier to turn, but with no weight on the tires, you get no traction up front!

Viscous Coupler Failures
The Viscous Coupler in all 249’s is prone to failing around the 75,000 mile mark. An easy test for the VC is to do several figure 8 maneuvers in a parking lot after driving the Jeep for 30 minutes or so at highway speeds. If the vehicle can idle through the maneuver, chances are the VC is okay. If it binds or needs additional power, your VC is likely on its way out. A VC from the stealership will run you about $800, so it is usually MUCH cheaper to swap in a 231 or 242.

SYE
At extreme lift heights, the rear driveshaft can cause vibrations. Currently there is no slip-yoke eliminator for the 249, and probably will never be one. An SYE creates a fixed rear output shaft on the t-case, much like the front output. This strengthens the rear output, as well as lengthens the rear driveshaft, lessening the angles on the joints, which can usually eliminate the vibrations.


Now, onto the swap itself.

Where to get your 231:
Most 231’s will work, but may not necessarily bolt in. Ideally you will find one with a 23 spline input shaft that matches the length of your current input shaft. There’s no for sure way that I know of to determine the length of your input shaft without pulling the t-case and measuring it. You can find 231’s in YJ’s, XJ’s, and TJ’s, but they are pretty rare to come stock in ZJ’s. On the YJ’s, they use a different front output yoke that will not work with your driveshaft. You can find the proper output yoke at most tranny shops.
Try to get a t-case out of a vehicle the same year as yours, or at least close to it.

So now I have my 231, what do I do with it?
Start by taking out your old 249. I find it easiest to drive the ZJ up onto 4 ramps when doing t-case work, or putting it on a lift. Be sure you are in 4WD if you pull up onto the plastic ramps though. It’s very hard to push the front tires up onto the ramps and you don’t want to shoot the ramps out from under the rear tires. Don’t ask how I know this!

It helps to have some people helping, as the t-case is pretty heavy and not fun to maneuver by yourself. So raise the vehicle and secure it in place with the e-brake (putting it in park will obviously not work as you are removing the drivetrain!) and other methods if you so desire.

- remove front and rear driveshafts (fluid will probably leak out the rear output when your pull the rear shaft, so you may want a drip pan)

- place a jack under the tranny pan using a block of wood or some other method to keep from damaging the pan.

- Disconnect all hoses, linkage, and other fittings on the t-case

- Drain the fluid of the 249 (30mm socket or wrench to open drain plug)

- Remove the 4 bolts holding the crossmember to the frame rails (be sure your jack is holding up the tranny and t-case or things will get very bad VERY quickly)

- SLOWLY lower the jack under the tranny pan until you can access all 6 nuts holding the t-case to the tranny. These should be 9/16” or their metric equivalent. They are a MAJOR PITA to get to, so be patient. Leave a couple bolts on the mounting studs to hold the t-case on until you’re ready to yank it. Raise the jack back up once you have the upper bolts removed

- Using a tranny jack or pure muscle, now remove the t-case from the tranny. You will need to slide the t-case back, and then it will come down. Tranny fluid will probably leak out a little bit, so again a drip pan is a good idea.

NOTE – on some models the tranny mount may be in the way of some of the nuts holding the t-case on. In this instance, remove the crossmember from the tranny and set it aside.


So now you have the 249 out of the vehicle, how do I get all this stuff back together??

Now that the case is out of the vehicle, you can examine the input gears to make sure they are the same length. If they’re different, don’t fret too much. This is where a Factory Service Manual is worth its weight in gold. You’ll need to tear down both cases and take the input gear from your 249 and put it in the 231. It will work, assuming that the gear cut is the same. There was a change in gear cuts around 94-95, and the gear cut MUST match what the case originally had in it, or again, very bad things will happen very quickly. The difference in gear cuts is easily identifiable simply by looking at the two input gears. If the cut of the gears looks different at all, time to look for a new input gear. I’d avoid the dealer, as you’ll pay more for the input gear than you probably paid for the whole t-case. I found one at the same tranny shop that had the correct output yoke. It ran about $150, which still isn’t cheap, but it’s half of what the dealer wanted.

Personally, I would rip down the 231 regardless if I was swapping input gears. It’s a good idea to do a full rebuild on it, or at least clean it out and get an idea as to what goes on inside of the t-case. Once again, the FSM is a great tool to have for this.

One other step that I would take before putting everything back in is getting the proper shift linkage for the 231. The tab that bolts to the outside of the case is probably going to need to be changed. It’s a cheap part, dealer only. Order the part for a 93 ZJ with a 231, you’ll need a case ID# too. The one I used that I found on here is 5209 8319. Simply unbolt the old tab, and put the new one on. Your factory linkage may need to be lengthened or shortened, but with this tab the linkage will work without any major modifications.

So now you’re 231 is ready to be installed!

Simply reverse the steps you took to remove the 249 and you’re good to go! Don’t forget to put new fluid in your 231 if you haven’t done so already.


Double and triple check everything to make sure you’ve got it all tightened up and ready to go before driving the vehicle. Don’t go right out onto the highway, tool around on side streets for a bit to make sure everything is working properly.

Here’s a brief summary of issues that I ran into with the swap, and how to solve some of them:

Input Gear
Needs to be a 23 spline, but the length is not known until the case is actually removed from the Jeep. You can make an educated guess as to what it will be, but there is no for sure way of knowing what it is. Usually you can swap the input shaft from the 249 into a 231, but there was a change in the gear cut right around 94 or 95. I got my case from a 90 YJ and needed to swap input shafts. The one from my 249 (1995) was the wrong gear pitch, which would've seriously screwed up the t-case. I had to purchase a new input gear to match the t-case and tranny. They are NOT cheap!! I paid more for that gear than I did for the whole case. The original 231 I put in has since been retired due to the front driveshaft coming apart and knocking a hole in the case, and the 231 I replaced it with already had the correct length shaft on it. So . . . I have two spare input gears for jeep t-cases. Both are the longest there is, one old gear cut, one new. If you do the swap and run into the same problem I did, and need a long input gear, let me know!!

Shift Linkage
More than likely will not work correctly. I can't remember the correct name for this part, but there is a tab on the outside of the case that the linkage hooks into. All you need to do to correct the linkage is get a new tab. It's hard to describe in words, but I'll see if I can find a pic of it for you.

Vehicle Information Center
I personally did not solve this "problem" as I know when I'm in what mode on the case. Apparently you can change the wiring up a bit and this will work, but I haven't messed with it at all.

Shifter Bezel
The "diagram" next to the t-case shifter will obviously still be for the 249. If you want to replace this a FEW early ZJ's with the 4.0 came with a 231 and you may still be able to order this part, or the bezel from XJ's might fit there too. Again, an "issue" I didn't deal with.

Front Output Yoke
Depending on what vehicle you source your 231 from, you may run into this problem. I got mine from a YJ and YJ's use a single u-joint at the t-case end of the front driveshaft, whereas ZJ's, XJ's, and TJ's all use a double cardan joint.



UPDATE

Dirty put together a great writeup on swapping input shafts. Check it out here: http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17376

robselina
07-14-2004, 09:39 PM
good info. the VC in my 1995 249 is definitely freakin' shot, I had both rears of the ground, was hung up out back and the front was still planted...didn't spin the front tires :roll: freakin' lame.
Anyway:

"There was a change in gear cuts around 94-95, and the gear cut MUST match what the case originally had in it, or again, very bad things will happen very quickly"

anyway to find out from the case which gear cut I've got? If the gear cuts are different from my case to the 231 I buy, what are my options? I'm assuming I should stick to 1995 or newer 231s from what you're saying, but don't want to buy a boat anchor 231 that I can't use.....

JpRngr
07-15-2004, 01:42 AM
There is not a way to tell what the pitch of the input gear is without pulling it apart. Although, if the t-case you get has the different bevel on the input gear, you can still get the correct length gear with the thread pitch you need from a tranny rebuilder. That's what Dave had to do when he did his. He may even still have some inputs laying around from his many t-case follies. :lol:

But, it is a lot easier, if you get the correct year t-case to start with.


Corey

BigDaveZJ
07-15-2004, 01:53 AM
There is not a way to tell what the pitch of the input gear is without pulling it apart.

:?

Outside of 94 and 95 cases it's pretty easy, older has one, newer has the other. As for what your 95 has, I would say chances are it has the newer cut, but you're not 100% sure until you find out. You can't even tell the difference just by glancing at them it's so small, but it's a big enough difference where bad things can happen. I do have several input gears still kicking around too. I think there's 3? of them out in the garage not in use. Two long, one of each gear cut, and a medium older cut I THINK. Two of them will take some minor disassembly of the various t-case parts that are together, but it takes about 2 minutes to do that. Let me know if you need one. There's a guy from JU who might be getting one of them from me this weekend, not sure yet though.

JpRngr
07-15-2004, 02:45 PM
Yah, yah, yah.... what i meant was that, provided you're not sure on year or you have one of the 94 or 95's, externally, there's no way to tell.


Corey

gsh
07-15-2004, 10:04 PM
I say bullshit on no way to figure either the shaft length or the date for the gear cut change.

TCU and drivetrain.com can get you setup if you get the info from the ID tag. They have to have the right tables and you can be damn sure New Venture knows it too. I don't know if they'd tell or not. Haven't asked.

I was gonna try some research on both these issues and put together a reference guide. I don't have much together now, but maybe if there's enough interest and cooperation, I might.

That was supposed to be for my own benefit, but I can share. Swamp Boy delayed the inevitible by selling me a good used VC at a damn good price. Thanks again Swampy for stetching my build budget.

BigDaveZJ
07-15-2004, 11:38 PM
I say bullshit on no way to figure either the shaft length or the date for the gear cut change.



People have been swapping other t-cases into ZJ's now for a few years and nobody has been able to figure out a sure-fire way to figure it out. Yes, you might be able to tell by the case ID #, but who until someone figures out what goes to what via the case ID # it's kinda worthless. I contacted George at TCU before I did mine and found him to be a pompous prick and refuse to send him any business.

robselina
08-08-2004, 01:18 PM
okay, since dave locked my other tread i'll ask here :oops:

23 spline 231s are available on all 4.0L rigs behind an AX-15. The AX-5 (behind a 2.5L) is either 21 or 23 spline. sounds like most are 21, but which are 23? I can't find shit about which AX-5s are 23 spline and which are 21 spline...anyone got any info? don't want to not look at 2.5L wranglers if they may have what I need......

BigDaveZJ
08-08-2004, 01:25 PM
Just ask the dude selling it. I've never seen a shortage of 231's for sale. Or pull it and count it, not that hard.

OverkillZJ
08-08-2004, 01:28 PM
okay, since dave locked my other tread i'll ask here :oops:

23 spline 231s are available on all 4.0L rigs behind an AX-15. The AX-5 (behind a 2.5L) is either 21 or 23 spline. sounds like most are 21, but which are 23? I can't find shit about which AX-5s are 23 spline and which are 21 spline...anyone got any info? don't want to not look at 2.5L wranglers if they may have what I need......

Once again, the only sure-fire way to check input shaft spline and length is to pull the case.

ID tags = hit or miss. Usually a miss.

robselina
08-08-2004, 02:31 PM
Just ask the dude selling it. I've never seen a shortage of 231's for sale. Or pull it and count it, not that hard.

fair enough. I just wanted to avoild pulling it if at all possible.

now I think about it though, a 21 spline input wouldn't really matter as long as it's a 95 or newer since I could just swap in my 23 spline input from the 249? right?

Swamp boy
08-08-2004, 09:53 PM
Swamp Boy delayed the inevitible by selling me a good used VC at a damn good price. Thanks again Swampy for stetching my build budget.


Your welcome... Glad I could help...

ANd for the record.. I have Sun Gear from a 93 249 in a 98 231 case with 2002 231D sprockets and Chain... It is all working great together...
Maybe if noone tells them they wont know...


Kinda like a bumble bee... :D

ATL ZJ
08-09-2004, 01:45 AM
Start by taking out your old 249. I find it easiest to drive the ZJ up onto 4 ramps when doing t-case work, or putting it on a lift. Be sure you are in 4WD if you pull up onto the plastic ramps though.

Umm, you kinda have no choice. :flipoff2: Good writeup though.

BigDaveZJ
08-09-2004, 02:00 AM
Start by taking out your old 249. I find it easiest to drive the ZJ up onto 4 ramps when doing t-case work, or putting it on a lift. Be sure you are in 4WD if you pull up onto the plastic ramps though.

Umm, you kinda have no choice. :flipoff2: Good writeup though.

Ummm, whoops! I was guess I was thinking about when I blew up a front driveshaft that took out 231 #1 and tried getting it on ramps in 2WD. It was fun!

robselina
08-19-2004, 10:41 AM
Okay, having some problems ordering the shifter bezel and tab. The parts guys don't know what the heck I'm talking about.

http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/231pic.JPG

Is the tab #20 or #21? Other? Also, anyone got a part # for the shifter bezel, they're thinking it's #9, but that can't be right since it's bent and I need something flat......

BigDaveZJ
08-19-2004, 11:27 AM
The tab I talked about isn't even in that diagram. The tab I was referring to is the one that the linkage hooks up to on the case itself. As for the bezel #9's about the only possibility really. If you order it and it's wrong, you'll know for sure and it won't cost ya nothin! I just go by where the lever is, pretty easy to figure it out.

robselina
08-22-2004, 11:39 AM
Okay, found the shift cover part number its #5521.7369

Now as for the tab:

http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/231pic2.JPG

Is it #12 in this pic?

robselina
08-23-2004, 12:50 PM
anybody? dave? this the right part?

I'm going to order it today if I don't hear otherwise.....

BigDaveZJ
08-23-2004, 01:40 PM
That's the tab you need to order. Use a ZJ 231 case ID#, like the one in my original write-up, and order that part for that case.

robselina
08-23-2004, 01:48 PM
thanks dave. ordering now....

robselina
08-23-2004, 06:36 PM
just stumbled across this and thought it might be of interest to people doing this swap:

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/231_input_gears.htm

robselina
08-28-2004, 10:02 PM
Okay, did the 231 swap today. Went smoothly thanks to all the info I've found on here and NAGCA!

A few issues though that aren't addressed in this FAQ:

1 - I had to shorten my rear driveshaft. I've got 3"-3.5" of lift (F/R swap with stock fronts and XJ 4.5" coils up front). I took off about 2", though i really only needed it about 1.5" shorter. I went a little on the short side to compensate for the increase pinion yoke length of the 8.8 when it goes in soon.

2 - I swaped out the spedo sensor. The gear was the same between the two cases, #35 if I recall, but the sensor had a different # between the two. I put the one from the 249 in it just incase, not sure if it's necessary.

3 - I swapped the whole planetary assembly, instead of just the input shaft. Looked identical and drove home 100 miles without problems.

4 - Don't try to make a franken-tab out of whatever 231 tab you have and your 249 tab. I tried to make one the length of the 249 tab, with the 231 cut for the shfter and the plastic insert from the 249. It's too long and isn't exactly the right angle. Just pay the $8 to get the dealer part :lol:

Also, I've added a 231 FSM in this FAQ folder.....

Thanks again guys,
Rob

gearhead313
11-30-2004, 11:16 AM
I dont know if this will help at all, but i found a few straggler pictures on my laptop of when i did my 231 swap... not hte greatest, just some random pics. I had more of the driveshaft differences, but can't find them.

left 231 right 249
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/DSC01107.jpg

left 249 right 231
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/DSC01108.jpg

top-231 (xj 4.0l auto)
bottom-stock 249
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/DSC01109.jpg

my happy welded VC after around 3500miles
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/DSC01113.jpg

left 231 right 249
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/DSC01114.jpg

trying to get the chain width difference
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/DSC01116.jpg

front drive output yoke
left 231 right 249
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v123/gearhead313/zj%20pics/DSC01119.jpg

Grand Taz
01-04-2005, 02:25 PM
Has anyone here done this swap with a 247? Are the swaps fairly simular?

I have a 2000 wj with the 4.7 V8 and NP 247. I'm starting to have problems with it. Its making a bad clicking noise when under stress.

MaineZJ
03-18-2005, 08:02 PM
ZJ 249-231 Swap FAQ Write-Up
Front Output Yoke
Depending on what vehicle you source your 231 from, you may run into this problem. I got mine from a YJ and YJ's use a single u-joint at the t-case end of the front driveshaft, whereas ZJ's, XJ's, and TJ's all use a double cardan joint.

How'd you fix this? Just ran into the problem... swapping a 93 249 for a 89 YJ 231.
swapped entire planetary unit, and speed sensor (which hits the fuel lines - do newer grands use flex lines there, or still hard?)
haven't fixed the shift linkage yet, since I don't have the driveshaft bolted in.

BigDaveZJ
03-18-2005, 08:54 PM
How'd you fix this?


Grabbed a yoke that would fit the double cardan joint. Try a tranny shop or a junkyard and just pull one from a rig that has a 231 and double cardan front shaft.

MaineZJ
05-10-2005, 08:50 PM
got a 89YJ 231
XJ front output yoke
bought a new shift tab
made a new long linkage for the shifter

and it all works.


one question - do 231s typically grind a bit coming out of Lo? not completely sure I put the thing back to together correct (specifically the syncronizer collar (shift ring))

Swamp boy
06-18-2005, 03:05 AM
Robselina.. I just moved my axle back about 2.5" or so..(something like that..) when I installed the 231 it gave me all the room I needed to clear the drive shaft.. and it was alot cheaper than shortening the shaft..:smt003

Maine.. I dont have any grinding with mine.. It shifts very smoothly ..

DougMangi
07-24-2005, 09:29 PM
ok this may be a dumb question but noone mentioned it.... if i plan on putting an sye in the 231 before i install it, do i need a new rear drive shaft?

5.2Krawler
07-25-2005, 12:38 AM
ok this may be a dumb question but noone mentioned it.... if i plan on putting an sye in the 231 before i install it, do i need a new rear drive shaft? Do you know what a SYE is? Or do you just want one because you hear people talking about them? A Slip-Yoke Elminator elminates the slip yoke of the stock transfercase. Making the T Case shorter and with a bolt up yoke like the front drive shaft. This requires the slip yoke to be put in the drive shaft (like the front shaft). So yes you will need a new driveshaft with any SYE on an vehicle.

offroadjeepin
09-13-2005, 05:04 PM
Welded the VC??? How did that work?? Seem to me like a good idea? I'd like to hear more!


Dave

RockTech4X4
10-02-2005, 12:31 PM
Somewhere I saw a write up similar to this but with the 242 case. Has anybody seen that done? I think that is a better option for me as I live in New England and would still like to have the full-time option in the winter but don't need it in the summer.....

-Rock

BigDaveZJ
10-02-2005, 01:15 PM
Somewhere I saw a write up similar to this but with the 242 case. Has anybody seen that done? I think that is a better option for me as I live in New England and would still like to have the full-time option in the winter but don't need it in the summer.....

-Rock

Swapping in a 242 isn't much different at all than the 231.

OverkillZJ
10-02-2005, 01:40 PM
Swapping in a 242 isn't much different at all than the 231.

Just keep in mind how much weaker it is, or am I remembering that torque chart wrong? I think the 242 was pretty much the weakest New Venture had made, but having all the options is nice.

RockTech4X4
10-02-2005, 01:43 PM
Just keep in mind how much weaker it is, or am I remembering that torque chart wrong? I think the 242 was pretty much the weakest New Venture had made, but having all the options is nice.

Yeah but I use my ZJ more on the road then off. I have a 70 mile commute everyday and I really like the idea of keeping the fulltime option.

nmzj
10-02-2005, 02:27 PM
Just keep in mind how much weaker it is, or am I remembering that torque chart wrong? I think the 242 was pretty much the weakest New Venture had made, but having all the options is nice.

The 242 is stronger.

NV naming:
first number = # of speeds

second number = strength (1-9 with 9 being strongest)

third number = type of coupling...(part time, full time, etc.)

so a 231 is weaker than a 242 which is weaker than a 271

OverkillZJ
10-02-2005, 02:37 PM
I know the naming convetion, but actual results appear to be different according to their own specs:

NV 242: 1486
NV 231: 1885

That's ft lbs

chart is at http://www.newventuregear.com/tcases.html

EDIT: but notice the 242HD is a lil' stronger than the 231HD

zjoe
10-04-2005, 11:04 AM
Hey all, I'm finally gettin ready to swap in a 231. I've been rereading all the swap write ups and posts I can find (I planned on doing this a year ago but ran out of money). For some reason, at the time, I knew I didn't have to worry about rear driveshaft length. Now I don't know what my reasoning was.
I'm lifted about 4.5" and the axle is moved back about 1.5", but I'm thinkin the driveshaft might still be alittle long. I can't move the axle any more without running into the gas tank skid. If I have to spend any more money on this thing I'm gonna vomit (pay to shorten driveshaft). The 231 I've got on the way is a newer one with the short tail cone. So my question is...Can I hack an inch or so off the rear output shaft if I need to with out running into any problems?

RockTech4X4
11-27-2005, 03:22 AM
I found a 231 from a 4.0ltr auto ZJ in a local salvage yard...Question is should I seek out a TJ or XJ case or would this one work? I think the truck was a 94....

-Rock

Cue-Ball
11-27-2005, 04:01 PM
I found a 231 from a 4.0ltr auto ZJ in a local salvage yard...Question is should I seek out a TJ or XJ case or would this one work? I think the truck was a 94....

-Rock

No that one is no good, why not pick it up and send it to me so your not tempted to use it:weedman:

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
11-28-2005, 02:24 AM
If I have to spend any more money on this thing I'm gonna vomit (pay to shorten driveshaft).

a.) you might want to find a new hobby. Like needlework.


Can I hack an inch or so off the rear output shaft if I need to with out running into any problems?

b.) Even if you could do it without f-ing up the splines it still isn't a great idea. Afroengineering is a bad idea when it comes to drivetrain components.

Cue-Ball
11-28-2005, 11:52 AM
a.) you might want to find a new hobby. Like needlework.



b.) Even if you could do it without f-ing up the splines it still isn't a great idea. Afroengineering is a bad idea when it comes to drivetrain components.

I agree, x2

zjoe
11-28-2005, 01:22 PM
needle work I can probably afford. I might become a hobby lobby thief.
That was like two months ago...I ended up buying a driveshaft instead of cutting the output shaft.
I still haven't put anything together though

skrracing
11-29-2005, 10:52 PM
Yea I did the same swap a while back and not had any problems at all. I also did the SYE at the same time... I did not want to go the hack and tap route.
Also had new drive shafts made by R.E.Reel at the same time as well. I used an tcase from a TJ...did not have to swap out the input shafts. here is a link if you want a few more pictures. Hope this helps. later...clint

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3868

Silver85327
12-02-2005, 08:59 PM
Hey all havent posted much here but I am about to perform this surgery myself except im going to be transplanting a 242. Anyways someone was asking about a 242 write up so I thought I would provide it. It even comes with a burn out pic at the end. Enjoy.

http://jeephorizons.com/tech/tcase.html

Cue-Ball
12-09-2005, 09:32 PM
I just picked up my 231 yesterday and the owner had to keep the speedo gear housing for his Atlas, will the one from my 249 just plug right in??

BigDaveZJ
12-09-2005, 09:43 PM
I just picked up my 231 yesterday and the owner had to keep the speedo gear housing for his Atlas, will the one from my 249 just plug right in??

SHOULDN'T be a problem.

Cue-Ball
12-10-2005, 02:24 AM
Thanks Dave.

steves88vb
12-13-2005, 10:42 PM
quick question i dont have the 249 out and worked on one yet, but i was wondering do u remove the input gear from removeing those bolts in the front of the case where it attaches to the tranny and sliding the input gear assembly forward? or do pop the entire thing apart and get it from that way?

fr3db3ar
12-14-2005, 10:39 AM
quick question i dont have the 249 out and worked on one yet, but i was wondering do u remove the input gear from removeing those bolts in the front of the case where it attaches to the tranny and sliding the input gear assembly forward? or do pop the entire thing apart and get it from that way?

You have to split the case to get ANY internals out of it.....anything that's not bolted to the outside....is internal.

jsteves
12-14-2005, 12:17 PM
I just picked up my 231 yesterday and the owner had to keep the speedo gear housing for his Atlas, will the one from my 249 just plug right in??

However, if i am not mistaken, there is an adjuster on the speedo housing that may need to be adjusted. if it is too tight it will apple core the speedo gears.

Cue-Ball
12-14-2005, 12:52 PM
Yes the speedo housing rotates to adjust for the speedo gear size.

Tyson
01-11-2006, 02:06 PM
Okay, found the shift cover part number its #5521.7369

Now as for the tab:

http://www.nmt.edu/~rselina/231pic2.JPG

Is it #12 in this pic?

I got with my local Jeep dealer and he didn't have a clue. He swears up and down that the 231 did not come in the ZJ and that the part number 5209 8319 is for a whole transfer case priced at $1000.

I'd like to get this swap done this weekend. I have a 231 out of a 92 XJ that had an AX15 and it is the short input shaft. I also have a xfer case out of a 92 Dakota that has the long shaft. I don't know what my 249 is yet but I will first thing Saturday morning. I just want to make sure I have everything I need, including this "tab", so I can do the swap.
Thanks y'all.

DougMangi
01-11-2006, 06:50 PM
i just cut the one we from the 249....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v247/dougmangi/tab.jpg

works perfect for me, shifts better than the 249 ever did

Tyson
01-11-2006, 07:06 PM
What did you cut? Is the hole to hole measurement the same and you rounded the outside? Got a before shot? 'course, I guess I could go look at my wifes ZJ.

Thanks.

DougMangi
01-11-2006, 11:03 PM
yeah the wholeoutside is an oval before, no before shot, sorry, something was in the way before, the tab couldn't move past it, so we took that L shaped slot out of the bottom left

Tyson
01-13-2006, 07:33 PM
Okay, I just finished pulling the 249 out of a '95 ZJ. It has the long input 23 spline.

I have two other transfer cases in my garage.
#1 231J out of a '91 XJ with short input
#2 231D out of a '92 Dakota with long input

The inputs of the dakota and the ZJ are the same. Is there any reason I can't combine the 231j and 231D? or Can I put the entire 231D strait in?

I want to get this done tomorrow.
Thanks Everyone.

jsteves
01-14-2006, 09:05 PM
if the inputs are the same you can throw it in...linkage will need some adjusting though

Tyson
01-15-2006, 12:07 AM
It's all good. Thanks to everyone for the info and the advice.
The final outcome was as follows.
95 Grand Cherokee V8 with np249 with long input.
I used the front half of a 92 Dodge Dakota 231D with a long input and the back half of a 91 XJ 231J. I also used the shift linkage off of the cherokee and adjusted the upper linkage a little. I used the speedo out of the 249. the only thing that doesn't work is the sensor that tells you what position your tcase is in. Oh, darn.

Everything bolted up great and it doesn't make any sound going down the road. Again, thanks for the advice all.

carnuck
01-18-2006, 03:35 AM
I'm thinking about playing this game in sort of reverse. I have a NV249 that was recently worked on by the Jeep dealer (came from a still driving but not street legal tee boned '93 ZJ with 4.0L AW4) New chain and resealed. I tried the figure 8 test, but couldn't turn the ZJ far enough to the right to tell (one lower arm on the front diff was bent with the bracket) but it seemed to work fine. No-one near me in Seattle wants it for $100 but lots are interested in the NV231 in my '93 XJ (4.0L with AW4 also). Since it's the wife's rig, making it full time 4x4 isn't much of an issue because our driveway is a 6 mile class 1 trail.
My big question is "Do I need to mod the driveshafts or are they the same length?" I have the ZJ front shaft, but the rear was bent and probably a different length anyways.

Tyson
01-18-2006, 09:16 PM
The 231 out of a 91 cherokee and the 249 out of a 95 ZJ were the same leangths and had the same outputs. It should work providing you follow all of the info provided in this post.

greenhunter
03-19-2006, 03:47 PM
I just swapped out my 249 in favor of a 231 from an 01 TJ. Fit perfectly except for the rear DS being too long (I'll address this by doing what swampboy did).

The only other problem I can see is that I think the 231 is clocked a little differently. If the front drivers side flexes any, it looks like the front DS will come in contact with the crossmember. Has anyone else had this problem? I'm thinking of cutting and rewelding the crossmemeber a little bit, but i'm worried about strength issues. Any advice?

zj-monster
06-13-2006, 09:55 PM
someone was asking about a 242 write up so I thought I would provide it. It even comes with a burn out pic at the end. Enjoy.

http://jeephorizons.com/tech/tcase.html

Damn Swampy, your ZJ is super SMOKIN'!! http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/z-monster/Smilies/burn-out.gif

Supershafts
07-04-2006, 11:20 PM
Just curious if anyone knows as to what other cases will bolt to the trans (46/5.2) in the ZJ other than the 231...what about the 241 or hd version or 271? ?

DJJordache
07-05-2006, 10:22 AM
someone has done the 241 but you don't hear much about this swap b/c they are harder to find and more expensive to get. Heck, it's easier to find a 242 AMG out of a H1 than a used 241. with $$ anything is possible

Supershafts
07-05-2006, 11:16 AM
Anyone know what's involved with the 241, after reading this i wonder how many more shots that case is gonna take before it grenades, and i was gonna add another 75 hp to it....i'll wait and see what's what with the 241 or hd install

Skyline
07-05-2006, 11:34 AM
After reading this thread, I still haven't made up my mind about whether to go with a 231 or a 242. Living in the Northeast, a FT 4WD option is really nice, but the 231's extra strength does sound like a good idea. The idea of a 242HD sounds like the perfect solution. What did they come in? Are there other issues that would make one more difficult to swap?

I know there are vendors who can sell you a fully built 242HD with all the right shafts/splines/etc to bolt right up to my current DS's and trans, but they want something like $1,200, (fully waranteed mind you, but still a lot of money!)

carnuck
07-05-2006, 01:45 PM
There is always the NP208J from a Full size FSJ. ('80 to '88 as an option with auto and standard equip with manual trans) I haven't test fit the one I have to the 42RE I have (to see if it needs a clocking ring for a spacer) but it's factory fixed yoke and stronger than the NP231.

DJJordache
07-06-2006, 08:54 AM
What did they come in? Are there other issues that would make one more difficult to swap?

I know there are vendors who can sell you a fully built 242HD with all the right shafts/splines/etc to bolt right up to my current DS's and trans, but they want something like $1,200, (fully waranteed mind you, but still a lot of money!) they came in the durango 98-2000 probably others...
they even have 23 spline input and 27 output. they also have .840 input length which is the same as the 96-98 ZJ 4.0L and maybe some v8's, but the input should be able to swap if it's not right for your application.
the bad thing about it is that it has NO speedo hole b/c the durango has the speed sensor at the wheel if I remember correctly.. and the rear driveshaft length might have to change since the durango case has internal slip vs the ZJ 96-98 242 external slip but might be ok if you have a 249 since they are internal slip already

carnuck
07-06-2006, 11:31 AM
I test fit the NP208J to the 42RE I have last night. If the centering nub wasn't there (on the trans output shaft) it would bolt right up. A thick clocking ring would allow it to work.

PS: If anyone needs a NV249, it ends today(sold for $50!)

Skyline
07-06-2006, 01:39 PM
they came in the durango 98-2000 probably others...
they even have 23 spline input and 27 output. they also have .840 input length which is the same as the 96-98 ZJ 4.0L and maybe some v8's, but the input should be able to swap if it's not right for your application.
the bad thing about it is that it has NO speedo hole b/c the durango has the speed sensor at the wheel if I remember correctly.. and the rear driveshaft length might have to change since the durango case has internal slip vs the ZJ 96-98 242 external slip but might be ok if you have a 249 since they are internal slip already
I guess that's the same as a regular 242 TC. '99 on used the electronic speedometer. Anyone know any pre-'98 applications for the 242HD???

nate
07-06-2006, 03:13 PM
241 and 241HD should be fairly common, that's Cummins powered Dodge trucks have, maybe the gassers too?

I swapped from a 249 to a 242 then to a 231, never changed input shafts, shifter linkages, etc and I've never had a problem. 242 was from a ZJ and the 231 from an XJ.

carnuck
07-07-2006, 03:00 AM
ZJs went to electronic speedos in '94 AFAIK. I have the VSS from one in my parts collection.

Skyline
07-07-2006, 08:29 AM
ZJs went to electronic speedos in '94 AFAIK. I have the VSS from one in my parts collection.

I think the concern is for us ZJ guys not to try to use one of the later TC's that have no speedometer hole at all. You can easily switch a sensor, but if the case has no hole, you have no speedo.

Take a look at this chart:

http://www.drivetrain.com/transfercaseappjeep.html#GRAND%20CHEROKEE

Supershafts
07-07-2006, 11:19 AM
No offer of a 241? i wonder if then you wouldn't be able to use a 241 or 241hd at all?

Rubber Chuck
07-11-2006, 05:44 AM
I am starting this swap tonight when I get home from work. My 4:1 kit should be in today. Did anybody ever do a write-up on a 4:1 install and if not...do we need/want one?

DJJordache
07-11-2006, 09:16 AM
the more info the better, I'd like to see a 4:1 install writeup

Rubber Chuck
07-11-2006, 09:29 PM
Ok.....got the 249 out tonight and threw the 231 in to get a driveshaft measurement.
The 1 bolt that Dave mentions in his write-up.....approximately the 10 o'clock position when looking at the t-case from the front was the only bolt that gave me issues.....the other 5 came out w/ a 14mm ratchet wrench. The last one I had to remove the crossmember and lower the tranny/t-case. I then was able to get both arms up and around the t-case to get at that last bolt. I used a small 3/8 drive flex head ratchet.....it's actually a 1/4" drive ratchet w/ a 3/8" head in it......can't put too much snot into it.....but after 263K....none of the t-case bolts were very tight.
If anybody wants.....I can take a pic of the ratchet I am talking about.

Now my 249has the long input shaft andthe 231 has a short shaft ....what really is the issue here??? Is it just a sealing problem??? I know it engages....I was messing w/ it when I had the 231 in for the DS measurement.

Hey Big Dave...do you still have any input shafts laying around??? 1993 v8 is what I have.......the 231 came out of an early 90s 6cyl YJ. From what I heard....if I ordered the 4:1 kit correctly....it should be a non-issue.

Has anyone seen the extended seals that Tera makes?? I have one and it looks like it should work if the shaft length difference was shorter....like going from an intermediate shaft to a short shaft.....or a long shaft to an intermediate shaft.....what it does is extend the seal out towards the t-case approx a 1/2"

Now as far as the 4:1 write-up is concerned.....I'll be happy to do it....but this is my first time doing this conversion.
Let me know.

Jim311
05-22-2007, 10:20 AM
Was there ever a writeup on the 4:1?

BigDaveZJ
05-22-2007, 10:29 AM
My understanding was that the 4:1 was UBER-easy to install, they just send you a new front case half and some other stuff and you just re-assemble the case with the new parts.

Jim311
05-22-2007, 10:53 AM
Yeah, I looked at a writeup on 4x4 wire and it's basically just swapping over some parts to the new front half. I'm curious about the strength of the kit and the long term reliability.

DJJordache
05-22-2007, 11:03 AM
I have a buddy with one in his TJ and he has had no problems for the past few years he has had it installed

bigrubbers4x4
08-02-2007, 03:17 PM
anyone know where to get this 4:1 kit for the the 231, if so hook us up with a link. i will be doing the 231 swap within the next few weeks since my 249 is ready to explode, it grinds real bad in 4Lo.

KDUB
08-02-2007, 05:38 PM
Here ya go. Next time maybe you should read the whole thread, it was in there.


http://www.teraflex.biz/pages/product_results.php

tywilson88
10-01-2007, 03:25 PM
so do you have to do anything with the front driveshaft.

jfowlzj95
10-01-2007, 03:37 PM
Nothing needed to be done with the front, the rear was the only change for me.

RebelGT
10-02-2007, 07:12 AM
I think the concern is for us ZJ guys not to try to use one of the later TC's that have no speedometer hole at all. You can easily switch a sensor, but if the case has no hole, you have no speedo.

Well, if you use an SYE you'll gain a hole for the speedo, I used a 2000 Dakota 231 T-case, and put in an advanced adapters SYE.

94laredo
10-05-2007, 05:10 PM
What would I have to do to put a 231 from an '89 blazer in my '94? The guy that has it for sale said that it is a 27 spline. Would the input shaft from my 249 have the same diameter and gear cut? Sorry for all the dumb questions but I can get it for cheap and if it works then I might get it rather than a Jeep 231.

Also, arent the internals of the Chevys stronger than the Jeeps?

macka
11-21-2007, 02:03 PM
What would I have to do to put a 231 from an '89 blazer in my '94? The guy that has it for sale said that it is a 27 spline. Would the input shaft from my 249 have the same diameter and gear cut? Sorry for all the dumb questions but I can get it for cheap and if it works then I might get it rather than a Jeep 231.

Also, arent the internals of the Chevys stronger than the Jeeps?

you know junk yards are filled with Jeep cherokees that have 231's and they are cheap and pretty much any 94 on with a 231 case has the right output spline.

cooperzj
11-21-2007, 10:39 PM
Nothing needed to be done with the front, the rear was the only change for me.

I'm doing a swap as well, but I'll be doing it the same time as my 8.8. The longer pinion may negate the extra length required by the 231. I'll have to wait and measure once everythings under there.

Anyone with a 8.8 and a 231 mind measuring their rear driveshaft?

DansZJ
11-28-2007, 12:20 AM
I didn't think there was a need to post a new thread when this one has so much info. I think I answered my own question, but I need confirmation.
I just swapped a 242 in and got rid of the 249. The install went went well, and the input shafts matched right up. I also have a SYE and new drive shaft. I have the AW4 and that trans is huge. It was in the way of almost every bolt I had to remove!:mad:

The 242 has a new 3-pin VSS:
3236

My 249 has a 2-wire vss that looks like this:
3238
I was going to swap the sensors out, but the old one is cracked (shown in red) and I can't reuse it.
Anyone have the 2-wire and convert to the 3 wire style? is there a way to get the 3 pin sensor to work with a 2-pin harness?
If not, I'll have to salvage the old part that mounts to the tc and get a new 2-wire VSS.

Other than this small snag, I'm glad to have the 2 high option. Now I can start going to emissions every 2 years instead of every year! (They can't run the full-time 4 wheel drives on their dyno, so they make me come every year. Lame.)
I'm running without my speedo right now and using my GPS for a monitor my speed :eek:.

fsjtrash
03-10-2008, 08:15 PM
I've got a 242, do I WANT to swap in a 231?
I've got one from a 98 4.0 XJ laying about.

dads5.9
03-10-2008, 08:35 PM
Why??? The big gain was for all of us that had the 249 and a bad VC. The 242 is a good tcase. Keep the 231 as a spare or sell it for something that you need.

fsjtrash
03-11-2008, 01:29 AM
ahh ok.

grandmaster
03-14-2008, 12:42 AM
Ok so I'm going to pick up my 231 this saturday. Its out of a 97 TJ nd has a SYE. And the question im about to ask is kind of dumb. I have a friend who bought a new shifter linkage setup, they handle shifter thingy and all. Is this really needed? Also I'm wondering what kind of drive shafts people are using who have the SYE. I heard of one from J E Reel on another post, but I kind of dont want to spend too much money because im planning on putting my 8.8 in within the next 6 months. So im wondering what my options are, preferbly the cheapest. Will a drive shaft out of an XJ work? I have a friend who is selling 2 tom woods drive shafts, but i wont know the length i need before the swap is complete. Or am i down to getting my stock one shortened? Or just buying a whole new one. Thanks in advance for any help.

DJJordache
03-14-2008, 10:03 AM
I just extended a stock front dshaft. It doesn't really matter if it is a front from an XJ ZJ WJ since it will need to be extended anyway.
It's been a while but if I remember correctly mine is almost 40" from UJ center to UJ center

edit: and the shifter thingy is not needed... I'm using the stock stuff

grandmaster
03-14-2008, 01:23 PM
So i will HAVE to extend the front shaft and buy a new rear shaft due to the SYE?

jfowlzj95
03-14-2008, 01:40 PM
I didn't have to do anything to the front shaft when I did the swap, only had to shorten the rear by 1" but you won't have to worry about that since you have an SYE. With the SYE you'll definatly have to lengthen the rear shaft, plus you'll wanna get a double cardan joint at the t-case end of the rear shaft since you got rid of the slip yoke.

BigDaveZJ
03-14-2008, 01:55 PM
Shouldn't need to do anything to your front shaft.

DJJordache
03-14-2008, 01:58 PM
So i will HAVE to extend the front shaft and buy a new rear shaft due to the SYE?
haha no silly! I was saying to run a front driveshaft (since it is dual cardan) in the rear for a cheaper SYE compatable rear driveshaft.

grandmaster
03-14-2008, 02:18 PM
oh, sorry about that, i missunderstood you. But isnt the front shaft like way skinnier then the rear shaft? How much do you think a dual cardan shaft would run me from tom wood or something like that. And would I be able to adapt it to my 8.8 when i do my install on that down the road in a few months?

cooperzj
05-23-2008, 10:47 PM
Now my 249has the long input shaft andthe 231 has a short shaft ....what really is the issue here??? Is it just a sealing problem??? I know it engages....I was messing w/ it when I had the 231 in for the DS measurement.

Let me know.

Can anyone answer this? My "new" 231 has the short shaft (that came from a 94' ZJ) and bolts up just fine to my rebuilt tranny- (like the quote from above) even though my 249 was a long shaft. I'm betting that you can go shorter, just not longer.

Basically, I want to know if I HAVE to do the input swap here. If I do, can someone explain why?

Also, since this 231 came from a ZJ, I'm thinking I don't need to change the shifter tab. Thoughts?

cooperzj
05-31-2008, 03:42 PM
Here the answer:

You have to swap it. It doesn't seal correctly if you don't. Ask me how I know. I have about a quart of Tranny fluid on my driveway to prove it.

So, I'm taking the 231 off and swaping inputs with my 249.

fpkites
06-01-2008, 12:55 AM
Here the answer:

You have to swap it. It doesn't seal correctly if you don't. Ask me how I know. I have about a quart of Tranny fluid on my driveway to prove it.

So, I'm taking the 231 off and swaping inputs with my 249.

Dave and I both, from wheeling heaven, 2-fisting beers, say...



NO SHIT SHERLOCK!!!!!!!

Matt
06-16-2008, 10:41 AM
Well my 242 went to shit and I have my hands on a 231. Haven't read much on a TJ tcase (mostly XJ's).

Will a TJ 99 231 (4.0/AX15) swap into a ZJ 97 242 (4.0) spot? Any problems? The guy swears it will but I don't want to go through all the hassle just to find out he's wrong.

TIA

BigDaveZJ
06-16-2008, 10:47 AM
As long as the input gears match up it should be fine. And if they don't, it's not hard to swap them around.

cooperzj
06-16-2008, 05:02 PM
You may also need a new shift tab as stated in previous posts.

dirty
06-16-2008, 07:01 PM
Go ahead and kick my teeth in for this, but...

I know why the 231 is prefered over the 249...viscous coupler=shit, but why is it better than a 242? Just curious, I have 242s in both my ZJs, they seem tough, I've only killed one...and that was all my fault.

Commence beating! :tease:

grandmaster
06-17-2008, 12:33 AM
231's are lighter and smaller i believe, couldnt be positive though.

Matt
06-17-2008, 01:59 AM
Go ahead and kick my teeth in for this, but...

I know why the 231 is prefered over the 249...viscous coupler=shit, but why is it better than a 242? Just curious, I have 242s in both my ZJs, they seem tough, I've only killed one...and that was all my fault.

Commence beating! :tease:

Aftermarket support being #1 - full sye (no H&T)

For some reason my 242 bent the output shaft by only breaking the pinion u-joint on the rear D/S. I didn't even tear up the rear shaft on rocks, just came down on the rear tires and that's what let go. Last year I tore up the rear shaft a bit on Holy Cross and Spring Creek, but in no way taco'd it. The H&T seemed to hold up fine, but the output shaft wobbles causing some serious vibes above 50 mph. (My chain started to slip occasionally too).

With that being said, I'm going 231, I'm not throwing $300 into this one just to do it again in 6 mo. But, would I have made the swap just for the sake of it... no.

Matt
06-17-2008, 02:08 AM
231's are lighter and smaller i believe, couldnt be positive though.

The 231 is smaller/lighter, as for which one is stronger, I've seen the argument go both ways.

nate
06-17-2008, 02:22 AM
231 is smaller, lighter and stronger, more aftermarket support and also easier to find.

There is really no arguement on what is stronger. New Venture puts out the specs for their cases and it's right there in black and white.

dirty
06-18-2008, 01:42 AM
Go ahead and kick my teeth in for this, but...

I know why the 231 is prefered over the 249...viscous coupler=shit, but why is it better than a 242? Just curious, I have 242s in both my ZJs, they seem tough, I've only killed one...and that was all my fault.

Commence beating! :tease:

Damn guys...I'm a fucking idiot for this..my bad.

I honestly searched for 231 vs. 242, in all possible "search" configs and came up with shit....anyways, got around to searching for 242 sye and that search popped up like six threads answering my question. :finga:

My bad.

End of the day..imma ride my 242 till it implodes, then getting a 231HD. Thanks.

~dirty

Matt
06-22-2008, 10:56 PM
Well I made the swap, but not without a hitch.

It seems that the non tapered input shaft on the 231 wouldn't fit in the place of the tapered input of the 242. So, instead of breaking down the tcases, I just used a grinder and tapered the 231 to look like the 242 input. I used a drill with a socket to spin the output nut and it worked pretty slick. (took off about 1/4")

1997 ZJ/4.0L NV242
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j131/mountainmatt/TnT%20Customs%20Longarm%20ZJ%20kit/0620081714.jpg

1999 TJ/4.0/5 spd NV231
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j131/mountainmatt/TnT%20Customs%20Longarm%20ZJ%20kit/0620081715.jpg

It's all back together and no vibs up to 80 mph. Also, the 242 linkage bolted right up to the 231. The shift indicator was the only other thing that didn't plug in (expected).

All in all, a direct swap.

rstrucks
06-22-2008, 11:08 PM
Was stick out length of the input the issue?

Matt
06-23-2008, 12:00 AM
Was stick out length of the input the issue?

The overall length if the input wasn't a issue (with the taper), but there was a ring around the tranny shaft where it would hit about 1/4" and stop before seating (it wasn't a seal, just a metal ring after the splines).

I should have taken some pics, it would've been easy to see the problem/fix.

88gtman
08-02-2008, 01:26 PM
I have a 95 ZJ with a 3" Skyjacker Lift, the 249 Tcase, and the 5.2 v8. My VC has gone bad and I have ordered a 231 Tcase from a 95 ZJ through Orielly's Auto Parts. I have not received or seen the Tcase I have ordered yet so I don't know if the input shaft lengths are the same. Since they come from the same year and model should these be a direct swap?

I am hoping I don't have to swap a driveshaft or anything.

jfowlzj95
08-02-2008, 06:14 PM
I have a 95 ZJ with a 3" Skyjacker Lift, the 249 Tcase, and the 5.2 v8. My VC has gone bad and I have ordered a 231 Tcase from a 95 ZJ through Orielly's Auto Parts. I have not received or seen the Tcase I have ordered yet so I don't know if the input shaft lengths are the same. Since they come from the same year and model should these be a direct swap?

I am hoping I don't have to swap a driveshaft or anything.

Just depends what input shaft they put in it, they vary depending on what transmission they come behind. Only way to tell if the shafts match is to measure and compare them.

dirty
09-15-2008, 08:29 PM
Well, for those of you who think they can figure out a t-case input shaft design without pulling it, think again...

I have a worn out 242 in a '93 Heep Grand 'Larado with the AW4 tranny & 4.0..all stock. I bought a 231 with SYE from Shorty_ZJ (Thanks again! if you read this!), it came out of a '93 Heep Grand 'Larado with the AW4 tranny & 4.0..all stock.

Behold....new 231 on left, old 242 on right....motherf&^%$#r!!!!!!!
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2742/231vs2421ew9.jpg



New 231.... (I put on sandals after opening a beer...after I saw this.)
http://img60.imageshack.us/img60/5641/231longxt9.jpg



Old 242...
http://img60.imageshack.us/img60/4189/242shortkq9.jpg


Anywho, thanks for the write up BigDave, it was help full, and you are right...t-cases are heavy...moreso by yourself.


So there you have it...."It's a Jeep thing, nobody understands."


EDIT: I thought maybe it would still go, lol. (Desperation) It doesn't, stops at exactly the differences in measurements. For the record, spline count is identical and taper is present on both. FYI.

BigDaveZJ
09-15-2008, 08:38 PM
Time to swap input shafts! Really not that hard to do if you have a good set of snap ring pliers.

ATL ZJ
09-15-2008, 08:40 PM
Time to swap input shafts! Really not that hard to do if you have a good set of snap ring pliers.

x2. Snap-on snapring pliers work fairly well. And the Autozone brand ones work surprisingly well too.

DJJordache
09-15-2008, 08:46 PM
there has to be something more to that....
ZJ's didn't use the vacuum shift indicator... did that come out of a XJ or something? are you sure shorty doesn't have a V8?

dirty
09-15-2008, 08:50 PM
Time to swap input shafts! Really not that hard to do if you have a good set of snap ring pliers.



x2. Snap-on snapring pliers work fairly well. And the Autozone brand ones work surprisingly well too.

Thanks fellas...yea, I know. I was just hoping to avoid all that...that's the only reason I drove to Denver for a darn t-case, haha.

Oh well, that was a fun trip anyways, thanks to the Colorado crew!

Hey, if you don't mind onther question...should I swap out the front drive outputs too...the 231 looks short to me? Or is that a "put it up there and see thing"?

dirty
09-15-2008, 08:53 PM
there has to be something more to that....
ZJ's didn't use the vacuum shift indicator... did that come out of a XJ or something? are you sure shorty doesn't have a V8?

You know what, he might have had a V8...I never actually met Shorty...only his brother Steve, lol. We had talked about the Stroker I built so maybe I assumed he had a I6. I know he did have a '93 with an AW4 though. Still, I think they should be the same, lol. Darn Heeps. Good thinking though!

dirty
09-20-2008, 11:34 AM
Thanks fellas...yea, I know. I was just hoping to avoid all that...that's the only reason I drove to Denver for a darn t-case, haha.

Oh well, that was a fun trip anyways, thanks to the Colorado crew!

Hey, if you don't mind onther question...should I swap out the front drive outputs too...the 231 looks short to me? Or is that a "put it up there and see thing"?

Swap complete...hope it "goes." Took lots of pictures...

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17376


And to answer my question about front output yolk, duh, you can't swap them they are different sizes.

ROCK!
10-22-2008, 11:50 PM
just came across this, but thought i would say something any way. i did a 231 swap in my grand and hated it. it lasted about 2 monts. case and point.

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u300/chelseyrock/pic042308_112.jpg

i later found a 241 DLD out of a 3/4 ton dodge. it was a direct bolt in. i had to use the slip yoke off of the dodge shaft (didnt have the cash for a SYE kit) and a conversion joint, but every thing else just bolted in. the input gear is the same spline count as the grand, and the same length. even the front shaft is the same. the 241 uses a 6 planetary gear, and the mane shaft is 1/2" in diameter bigger.

dirty
10-31-2008, 02:47 AM
just came across this, but thought i would say something any way. i did a 231 swap in my grand and hated it. it lasted about 2 monts. case and point.

http://i171.photobucket.com/albums/u300/chelseyrock/pic042308_112.jpg

i later found a 241 DLD out of a 3/4 ton dodge. it was a direct bolt in. i had to use the slip yoke off of the dodge shaft (didnt have the cash for a SYE kit) and a conversion joint, but every thing else just bolted in. the input gear is the same spline count as the grand, and the same length. even the front shaft is the same. the 241 uses a 6 planetary gear, and the mane shaft is 1/2" in diameter bigger.

Whatever caused that would have shelled a 249 or a 242 too. Not to say the 241 isn't superior to a 231, just stating the obvious. I think you got a bunk 231...I guess this is a problem for all you guys with big engines, low gears, and heavy feet. Lol! :booya:

tharlanjr
11-12-2008, 03:52 PM
Alright, I am picking up a newer 242 that has the 23 spline.

It has the electronic speedo.

My Heep is a 97, so the gear cut should be the same, but is there a diagram for wiring in the VIC?

Also is the speedo the same?

I am getting the case for cheap, and my 249 giving me crap.

Do they have different yoke sizes than stock zj's?

rccolacc
11-12-2008, 05:27 PM
Alright, I am picking up a newer 242 that has the 23 spline.

It has the electronic speedo.

My Heep is a 97, so the gear cut should be the same, but is there a diagram for wiring in the VIC?

Also is the speedo the same?

I am getting the case for cheap, and my 249 giving me crap.

Do they have different yoke sizes than stock zj's?

What vehicle does the case come from? If it's a WJ or XJ the yokes should be the same as your ZJ. I don't think 242s came in Wranglers (maybe the new ones do), but if it came from a wrangler you have to change the output yoke going to the front so it will fit the double cardan joint on your driveshaft. I believe you can rob it from your 249 and put it on there though if you really have to.
As far as the speedo goes- maybe someone else can answer that. When I put in my 231 I just swapped the speedo gear from the 249 and put it in the 231. Since yours is electronic it may not be that easy, but I'm not sure.
Do a search on the VIC. I think I remember you're supposed to take it out, disconnect the red wires and connect the 2 black wires or something. Someone's wrote about it though.
Good luck.
-RC

BigDaveZJ
11-12-2008, 06:00 PM
What vehicle does the case come from? If it's a WJ or XJ the yokes should be the same as your ZJ. I don't think 242s came in Wranglers (maybe the new ones do), but if it came from a wrangler you have to change the output yoke going to the front so it will fit the double cardan joint on your driveshaft. I believe you can rob it from your 249 and put it on there though if you really have to.


Almost true. TJ's have the same double cardan front driveshaft that ZJ's and XJ's use. Most WJ's to my knowledge used some bastardized booted CV joints, and probably different yokes too. Now on a YJ 231, you are partly correct as well. The yoke on the YJ 231 is for a single u-jointed shaft, but your 249 yoke will not mate up to the 231 output.

dp96zj
11-12-2008, 07:58 PM
I'm doing the 231 swap on my ZJ too, and have a question about the rear driveshaft length. I searched, but I couldn't find anything with a clear answer.

I've got a '96 with the V8 & 2"bb with the 249/d44a rear, does anyone know the length of the rear driveshaft they used between a 231/d44a?

rccolacc
11-12-2008, 11:53 PM
I'm doing the 231 swap on my ZJ too, and have a question about the rear driveshaft length. I searched, but I couldn't find anything with a clear answer.

I've got a '96 with the V8 & 2"bb with the 249/d44a rear, does anyone know the length of the rear driveshaft they used between a 231/d44a?

ZJ's never came with a 231 and a 44a. Some had the 231 when the ZJs first came out, but that was when they were still using a 35c rear axle. FWIW when I put my 249 right next to my 231 when I was swapping them, they're exactly the same length to the tailhousing. This was with a '88 231. Maybe some of the newer ones are shorter. I had no trouble with using my stock rear driveshaft though.
-RC

dirty
11-13-2008, 12:31 AM
I'm doing the 231 swap on my ZJ too, and have a question about the rear driveshaft length. I searched, but I couldn't find anything with a clear answer.

I've got a '96 with the V8 & 2"bb with the 249/d44a rear, does anyone know the length of the rear driveshaft they used between a 231/d44a?

Not to be an a-hole, but the main reason so many do a 231 swap is so they have the aftermarket support of a true slip yolk eliminator...available for the 231, but sadly not the 242. My point being, get a SYE kit, then measure. If I recall correctly, my Tom Woods was 38 inches...from a 231 w/SYE to and old school d44.

I know how budgests go, and how money is tight...but if you are even remotely serious about this you will someday need a SYE, they are like $250 bucks, get it now.

If thats just not do-able, then you are just gonna have to see what might fit. I doubt you will find many who swap out t-cases before they swap the aluminum d44.

jfowlzj95
11-13-2008, 01:05 AM
I'm doing the 231 swap on my ZJ too, and have a question about the rear driveshaft length. I searched, but I couldn't find anything with a clear answer.

I've got a '96 with the V8 & 2"bb with the 249/d44a rear, does anyone know the length of the rear driveshaft they used between a 231/d44a?

Forget the 231, buy one of my D300s instead. :D

To get back on topic, when I did the swap I had to shorten my driveshaft by 1". I was using a 231 out of a 96 XJ. Do the swap and see if you're gonna need a different length driveshaft, have someone shorten/lengthen it if needed, and so there is no down time just drive around in front wheel drive. Just take it easy if you do.

tharlanjr
11-13-2008, 05:08 AM
The 242 I am getting is out of a 2000 XJ with 55K miles on it!

Stupid question, but do you think I will need to change the yoke, or shorten/lengthen the driveshafts, front or rear with this swap?

I have a 97 with the 249.

Hopefully the front will be the same cause I just got a new shaft, hahaha

Also I probably will need to change the input shafts also right?

Thanks

greengc4x4
11-13-2008, 05:49 AM
The 242 I am getting is out of a 2000 XJ with 55K miles on it!

Stupid question, but do you think I will need to change the yoke, or shorten/lengthen the driveshafts, front or rear with this swap?

I have a 97 with the 249.

Hopefully the front will be the same cause I just got a new shaft, hahaha

Also I probably will need to change the input shafts also right?

Thanks
when i swapped a 242 into my 97 v8 my driveshaft didnt fit anymore, i snagged one out of an I6 with the 242 and it fit fine. Also you wont know if you have to swap it until you pull your 249 and compare

tharlanjr
11-13-2008, 06:15 AM
I sure as hell hope I dont need to change the front DS, I just friggen bought this one, lol

sporttj
11-13-2008, 05:10 PM
I have a 231 with a Tera Low kit from a 97 TJ and would like to put it in a 98 5.9l ZJ. (TJ AX-15, ZJ 46RE)

I know the input shaft is too long and needs to be swapped to the shorter shaft. Can the shaft from the Tera Low be swapped with the shaft from the 249 to make it work?

My understanding is YES but wanted to get some ideas before tear-down.

Thanks

dp96zj
11-13-2008, 06:56 PM
Not to be an a-hole, but the main reason so many do a 231 swap is so they have the aftermarket support of a true slip yolk eliminator...available for the 231, but sadly not the 242. My point being, get a SYE kit, then measure. If I recall correctly, my Tom Woods was 38 inches...from a 231 w/SYE to and old school d44.

I know how budgests go, and how money is tight...but if you are even remotely serious about this you will someday need a SYE, they are like $250 bucks, get it now.

If thats just not do-able, then you are just gonna have to see what might fit. I doubt you will find many who swap out t-cases before they swap the aluminum d44.

I was considering the SYE, but I'm gonna try to convince myself to stay around 2" (yeah, right) and wait a while before I spend any more money on the drivetrain. The reason I'm swapping is just to get rid of the toasted vc and have the 2wd/stronger 4x4 options.

dp96zj
11-13-2008, 06:59 PM
Forget the 231, buy one of my D300s instead. :D



Depending on how successful the 231 swap is, I might!



To get back on topic, when I did the swap I had to shorten my driveshaft by 1". I was using a 231 out of a 96 XJ. Do the swap and see if you're gonna need a different length driveshaft, have someone shorten/lengthen it if needed, and so there is no down time just drive around in front wheel drive. Just take it easy if you do.


Hopefully either my stock driveshaft or the spare that Jordan has will fit. If not, I'll get it fixed somehow.

DJJordache
11-14-2008, 12:57 AM
Do the swap and see if you're gonna need a different length driveshaft, have someone shorten/lengthen it if needed, and so there is no down time just drive around in front wheel drive. Just take it easy if you do.we may end up doing this..... depending on how it comes out....besides if we need to shorten it I know a good driveshaft shop off of 610 that I get my stuff done at

I'm helping him swap tcase 96 249->2001xj 231 since he has never done it before. right now his 231 is almost all put back together at my work b/c I took it apart to check to make sure the internals were all ok on a junkyard tcase.

stockzjwnc
01-11-2009, 02:48 PM
ok sorry i dont have time to read the entire thing and i am in a time crunch. but i have the chance to buy a 231 out of a 94 zj with a 42re
i have a 94 with a 249 will it be a direct swap

DJJordache
01-11-2009, 10:14 PM
ok sorry i dont have time to read the entire thing and i am in a time crunch. but i have the chance to buy a 231 out of a 94 zj with a 42re
i have a 94 with a 249 will it be a direct swap
if your talking about the ZJ in your sig then yes it should be a bolt in for the tcase.
94 231 42RE
94 249 42RE
should be the .840" with the internal collar on both, so yes:D

O'Tool
01-22-2009, 01:16 AM
I put in the 231 with a SYEafter blowing apart my 242 back in October... I absolutely LOVE it! My only problem, is that I don't have a "gate" for the 231 or the bezel, so I can't just yank on the handle.
You only pull it until it engages into the 4x4, then stop pulling.
The XJ gate didn't fit.
Anyone got suggestions? or even better, one that may fit?
Lemme know by PM please... Don't wanna threadjack this more that I already have.
Thanks guys!

DJJordache
01-22-2009, 09:43 AM
how about using a 231 gate?:flipoff2:

the 242 gate is the same thing too, yes I know they have different part numbers but I have held them side by side in my hands and there is no difference in dimensions of the length of the placement of the 4high nub.

Jim311
01-22-2009, 11:37 PM
Yo DJ, thanks for the help on the tcase inputs. It's been ages since you gave me some advice on the input lengths and you were right. I picked up a 97ish 231j and that bitch bolted right up to my 96 V8 ZJ. Have to have my driveshaft shortened. I'm not swapping in an 8.8 just yet. For reference my driveshaft length for my 96 V8 is supposed to be 31.75 ujoint center to ujoint center. That's with a RE 4.5 lift with adjustable arms so I'm sure some people's results might be different. Next up is to swap in that Clayton's kit that's been in my garage for ages.

SirFuego
01-22-2009, 11:50 PM
My only problem, is that I don't have a "gate" for the 231 or the bezel, so I can't just yank on the handle.
You only pull it until it engages into the 4x4, then stop pulling.
Didn't I give you a ZJ transfer case shifter and linkage a couple years ago when I lived in Williamsville? If it's not you, then it was Cherokee. Either way, the gate included with the linkage was from a ZJ with a 231.

Regardless, I am struggling to see what your problem is? Do you not want to need to shift the tcase to the right to shift into 4LO? Did Eric change something with your shifter when he put in the 231?

DJJordache
01-23-2009, 05:01 PM
Yo DJ, thanks for the help on the tcase inputs. It's been ages since you gave me some advice on the input lengths and you were right. I picked up a 97ish 231j and that bitch bolted right up to my 96 V8 ZJ. Have to have my driveshaft shortened. I'm not swapping in an 8.8 just yet. For reference my driveshaft length for my 96 V8 is supposed to be 31.75 ujoint center to ujoint center. That's with a RE 4.5 lift with adjustable arms so I'm sure some people's results might be different. Next up is to swap in that Clayton's kit that's been in my garage for ages.
no problem:D I actually did this swap on dp96zj (96 V8 44RE 249-> XJ 01 AW4 231) and it was the same as yours was with the same issue of needing to shorten the rear shaft. I also ran into one more thing during the swap that the nonadjustable shift linkage arm was too long and I had to shorten it by one inch but it was not a big deal after that.

O'Tool
01-24-2009, 10:58 PM
Didn't I give you a ZJ transfer case shifter and linkage a couple years ago when I lived in Williamsville? If it's not you, then it was Cherokee. Either way, the gate included with the linkage was from a ZJ with a 231.

Regardless, I am struggling to see what your problem is? Do you not want to need to shift the tcase to the right to shift into 4LO? Did Eric change something with your shifter when he put in the 231?

Hey Jared!
Yeah that was me you gave the other linkage to...
You know, I didn't even think about thatgate. I'll have to check that out when I get home.

The problem is, that with no gate in there right now, the shifter is sloppy.
You pull it back to get it into 4WD, but only pull it until it "feels" like it goes in. If you don't pull it par enough or too far, it either sits in neutral, or grinds being between gears.
I'd like to be able to pull it until it stops, and know that it was in the correct gear.
You would still have to push it to the right and back to get into 4LO, but would prevent "missing" the 4WD gear.

It's not so much for me, but my dad and one of my friends who drove it have both had a problem with it. It's something that you need to get a "feel for" and for some people, that isn't an option.

Jim311
01-26-2009, 11:59 AM
no problem:D I actually did this swap on dp96zj (96 V8 44RE 249-> XJ 01 AW4 231) and it was the same as yours was with the same issue of needing to shorten the rear shaft. I also ran into one more thing during the swap that the nonadjustable shift linkage arm was too long and I had to shorten it by one inch but it was not a big deal after that.


I haven't messed with the shift linkage just yet so I'm not sure if everything will line up and work or not. I can manually shift it through the gears without it lining up but I'm not sure what it will feel like when I'm actually in the Jeep. I may have to buy that tab from the stealership.

DJJordache
01-26-2009, 12:26 PM
I was not talking about the 231 shift tab, I meant the shift arm that is about 16" inches long that hooks up to the shift tab

Jim311
01-26-2009, 12:30 PM
So you just shortened it an inch and everything was good to go, even with the tab that came with the 231? Or did you buy that tab AND shorten the rod?

DJJordache
01-26-2009, 01:37 PM
We used the stock 96-01 231 shift tab on the case, I just had to cut out an inch of the long rod, that you already have, and re-weld it back together.

you will see that if you hook up the linkage as is, it will bind and not allow full throw into 2wd. by taking out the inch it will allow the full range of motion and still have plenty of adjustment on the rod that hooks up to the hand shift lever.

maybe dp96zj can slide under his and take a quick pic for us of the linkage:D

fpkites
01-26-2009, 05:17 PM
Short tab solved that for me - no need to cut the linkage. Different folks, different strokes, I guess.

OverkillZJ
01-26-2009, 05:19 PM
Get a short tab, cut an inch out of the rod, doesn't matter: same result.

dp96zj
01-27-2009, 12:32 AM
Yeah if you want me to, I'll go out and snap a picture for you tomorrow. After cutting down that shifter rod, everything fit into place. After that, all you have to do is mess with the shifter linkage using the adjustment screw (thanks DJJordache :D).

dp96zj
01-27-2009, 04:22 PM
Here ya go.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/dp91990/MC%20Pics/P1030631.jpg

We cut about an inch off of the top. You can see the weld up towards the top of the rod.

Jim311
01-28-2009, 09:36 AM
Cool. I think I'd rather cut and re-weld than buy a tab from the dealership.

Derek33
01-30-2009, 07:02 PM
stupid question,

do any 231's come with a slip yoke eliminator?

DJJordache
01-31-2009, 10:19 AM
yeah after you install one in them:flipoff2:

Jim311
01-31-2009, 03:33 PM
I didn't even have to buy the shifter tab for the 231. Just used the one it came with and it bolted up. It seems to go through all the gears fine. Maybe I just got lucky.

stockzjwnc
02-01-2009, 11:35 AM
im kinda confused. i did a 231 swap out of a 94 zj into my 94 zj. everything worked perfectly except the shifter doesnt work at all like it just doesnt want to move into more than one correct spot. what do i do

dp96zj
02-01-2009, 01:21 PM
Did it hand-shift when the transfer case wasn't on the rig? Were you able to move the shift tab and have it cycle through gears?

If not, it's a probably linkage problem. You can adjust the lever arm that connects to the shifter really easily.

stockzjwnc
02-01-2009, 01:49 PM
yea the t case shifts fine but i cant do it with the stock linkage that was for a 249 like do i need a new tab thing on the tcase or what

fpkites
02-01-2009, 02:36 PM
For a 231, probably not - it has the same quantity of shift points as the 249. Fiddle with your linkage a bit. What worked for me was to shift it in to low using the lever on the case, and adjust the linkage accordingly.

stockzjwnc
02-01-2009, 05:27 PM
no a 249 has alltime 4wd N and 4 LO
231 has a 2wd 4wd N and 4 LO

fpkites
02-01-2009, 09:50 PM
D'oh! I sat and thought about it, and you're right. Still less than the 242 though.

If you're having problems getting it adjusted, you'll need to either shorten and re-weld the linkage as (well) documented here, or get the short tab from the dealer.

BigDaveZJ
02-08-2009, 04:03 AM
So brain fart moment here. Any reason that a standard 98 ZJ 249/44A rear driveshaft won't work with a 231 that has the external slip yoke? Got a line on a couple and want to make it as hassle free as possible.

DJJordache
02-08-2009, 04:26 PM
will need to shorten the rear DS a little, but you can run around in FWD until that is ready:D

jeepr4life
02-08-2009, 05:58 PM
I second that you have to shorten the driveshaft. i had to do the same. There was also some concern about keeping the yoke greased however I just greased up the inside of the yoke real good and used an old shock boot to keep most of the dirt out and havent had any problems. I have also seen people install a zert fitting on the yoke

go4x4it
05-26-2010, 02:31 PM
Resurrecting this thread..

I have a 231 AMC that I am wanting to swap into my 98 ZJ.. The issue Im running into is the c clip groove in the input shaft from my ZJ is closer to the trans, than the 231 shaft is, cause the bearing height difference. Does anyone know what I could do for this?? Trying to get this done for moab.. if not, I'll be rockin the 249 until I can figure this all out.

skaven
09-19-2010, 11:30 PM
i also have a question...i swapped the input shaft and im ready to put it back in but my 231 had no electrical hook up like the 249 and the 231 also has 4 or 5 cant remember right now extra vaccum line hook ups...they both had a vac line on the top of the t-case tho.

quadratokn
11-23-2010, 04:06 PM
Anyone try a 241HD swap???

Im wondering if it will fit cuz of the PTO thingy.

Jeep Whore
04-17-2011, 01:05 AM
Hey would anyone have the part numbers for any of the bearings / seals in the 231?

dp96zj
04-17-2011, 11:22 AM
Here are Mopar p/n's, you can find aftermarket ones relatively easily.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/dp91990/FSM%20Stuff/Untitled-5.png

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/dp91990/FSM%20Stuff/Untitled2.png

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg186/dp91990/FSM%20Stuff/Untitled3.png

Zj heep
04-27-2011, 01:51 AM
Great writeup

hkszx2
02-22-2012, 10:28 PM
Ok so it's been awhile since I've been on here and the jeep has been sitting and I'm finally ready to do this , the 8.8 swap and the hp30 swap. I've read this thread about 100 times and Im slightly confused. I have a mystery year xj 231 case and my 94 xj 239. Can I make just these two cases work by swapping the input and planetary gear or do I need to buy a new gear for the 231 to match the input shaft from the 239 ? Also ifi have adjustable rear links do I need to shorten my drive shaft or can I just make it up there?

USMC MAD HATTER
02-28-2012, 10:22 PM
I've been trying to figure this out using the search button, and maybe I haven't read far enough, but here is my question.



I have a '96 ZJ, and my np242 just blew up. the CV joint seized up, and the energy transferred, ripped the TC apart. I want the guy doing the work to put in an NP231. I need to know what year vehicle came with this TC, and it has to bolt right on and work for this guy to warranty his work. I've read about input shaft splines needing to be 23 count, and lengths. I'm not very knowledgeable about this stuff, and need the specifics for this swap to be successful on a '96 ZJ with the 4.0. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If any information about my rig is needed I will try and get that ASAP. My mechanic has found a direct replacement 242, for $550, but since I want to run lockers, and tires 35" and larger, I've read the 231 is the way to go. Thanks for any help that is given.



Andrew

USMC MAD HATTER
02-29-2012, 01:06 AM
I should also note that my rig has an automatic, and I'm not sure of the exact model. I think the AX15's were a 4 speed. Not sure if overdrive is considered a 4th gear or not. Also my front drive shaft needs replacing, along with whatever else twisted. I do plan on a SYE, and rear DS, because I have a 4.5" lift, and don't want the vibrations I was getting... I did read through this whole thread, and though the 4.0 was mentioned. The entire thread basically has been discussing 5.2's, and 5.9's going from 249's to 231s, and 242's. The '96 4.0 going from a 242 to a 231, specifically is what I need to know. Again, any information bestowed upon me is greatly appreciated.

moparrr07
02-29-2012, 01:12 AM
I should also note that my rig has an automatic, and I'm not sure of the exact model. I think the AX15's were a 4 speed. Not sure if overdrive is considered a 4th gear or not. Also my front drive shaft needs replacing, along with whatever else twisted. I do plan on a SYE, and rear DS, because I have a 4.5" lift, and don't want the vibrations I was getting... I did read through this whole thread, and though the 4.0 was mentioned. The entire thread basically has been discussing 5.2's, and 5.9's going from 249's to 231s, and 242's. The '96 4.0 going from a 242 to a 231, specifically is what I need to know. Again, any information bestowed upon me is greatly appreciated.

any np231 with the same length imput shaft out of a jeep will work

USMC MAD HATTER
02-29-2012, 02:24 AM
Thank you for the quick reply. I hope that's true, but i need to be sure. Do all 96 4.0 ZJ's have the same input shaft lengths on the 242's? if so which 231 , and from which year/model vehicle come with that same length? They guy doing the work orders rebuilds from a parts supplier, and it would make things easier for him to track down the part if I can give him the correct year, and model vehicle to order of from. Hope that makes sense. Time is sensitive, because he will start charging me to store it, untill I can get this info to him in a timely manner. again thanks for your reply. still waiting for more feed back on this. And any other factors I may need to be aware of, for an easy install.

cowboy63b
03-01-2012, 12:17 AM
lets put it this way, pull your 231 from any 96 or newer jeep XJ/TJ and its a bolt in affair, any 231 rebuild kit for a 96 or newer will work just make sure it has 23 splines on the input and the same length input, and you dont have an ax15 because they are a manual, yours is more than likely a 42RE, good luck.


some refrence material......http://www.jbconversions.com/products/np231j/rebuild.php
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52270_104.htm
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm

USMC MAD HATTER
03-01-2012, 04:52 PM
So one from a '95 ZJ 4.0L won't be a direct swap in affair? And a '96 XJ will. I was told on another forum, the 95 ZJ was the one to get, so that's what I told the mechanic. He's being a baby, and telling me how he does things, which is order the same part, take old one off, and put new one in. I know this job isn't hard, which is destroying my confidence in this guy, who came so highly recommended. I told them they might have to swap out the input shaft, but that should be the only problem. they were like whoa, so there may be issues? Anyways, let me know if I have to call this guy back, and tell him nay on the '95 ZJ, or not. also will I have any issues with the drive shafts? most likely need to replace both. I have a 4.5" lift, and do plan on getting a sye. Thanks for the help so far. I do greatly appreciate it. Wish I had the time to do this myself. it honestly seems like it would be a good install for me. Too bad I just don't have the time, and space.

fpkites
03-02-2012, 12:57 AM
A 95 ZJ 231 might be a direct swap. There were 3 different inputs.

96 was when the input was standardized.

USMC MAD HATTER
03-03-2012, 06:36 PM
Thanks guys

USMC MAD HATTER
11-16-2012, 11:19 PM
So the swap took place, and the sye is installed, and the custom drive shafts as well. Now here's my problem. The damn thing won't shift at all. I don't have the right linkage with that bracket/shift selector thingy. Forgive me for not using the proper wordage. Anyways does anyone know where I can buy one? I'm done looking through junkyards for now. I need this thing before the snow falls here. A part number, and any heads up/slash advice would be appreciated. I was originally told the darn thing should still shift, but I would have to know where to stop it. Which I do, but it won't budge. It is a rebuilt TC. So I hope there isn't something wrong with it. I think the guy who installed it, did it wrong, and maybe things are binding. Sigh... I'll be standing by, patiently, waiting for a response. Thanks for your help in advance.

Andy.

Wil Badger
11-16-2012, 11:27 PM
Have you gone under the Jeep and tried to manually shift it with your hand? That would the first thing to check in my book. If you can't move the selector by hand then my guess would be something is wrong inside the case. Also don't forget to choke the wheels and put the parking brake on.

USMC MAD HATTER
11-17-2012, 12:32 AM
Have you gone under the Jeep and tried to manually shift it with your hand? That would the first thing to check in my book. If you can't move the selector by hand then my guess would be something is wrong inside the case. Also don't forget to choke the wheels and put the parking brake on.

No, I haven't. I did look, but don't remember how things are suppose to look. I'll try to move it tomorrow. It's dark, and cold as hell. So when I go to move the selector, I should have the shift linkage disconnected? Or should it move fairly easily?

tjswj
11-17-2012, 01:16 AM
Ive seen someone re-install the shift linkage upside down. They installed a junkyard case themselves, then brought it to me to figure out what was wrong.

I agree with checking it by hand. I would disconnect the linkage so that you can determine wether its a case issue or a linkage issue. If the case shifts by hand then its obviously a linkage issue, if not than its a case issue.

lateralus3
11-21-2012, 10:38 PM
ok so im able to pick up a 231 and i just want to make sure i have this right, theres a chance it may swap right in no problem other than the shift tab and bezel then theres a chance i will have to swap the input shaft from my 242 into the 231 as long as its the same gear cut and if its not the same gear cut ill have to either find one or buy one. am i understanding this right?

tjswj
11-21-2012, 10:43 PM
yes

lateralus3
11-21-2012, 10:56 PM
ok good, too bad i cant get it for less than $200

fx4matt
12-24-2012, 09:19 AM
i got my 231 for my 97 zj out of a 2000 xj for 140$ pulled and delivered to my door, i forgot to ask the guy what year it was before we made the deal, i guess i got lucky, it bolted up but it was about an inch longer than the 249 so i had to make the rear d/s work

94Tundra
07-12-2016, 09:07 PM
Just picked up a 98 Zj 5.9 last week. Have a 231d out of a Dodge ram probably 96-97. Is this a swap able unit? Thanks!

K2
07-13-2016, 12:09 AM
I think the output spline count is different. You may be able to swap parts to make it work, but it is not a direct bolt in. It does have the wide chain and if you have it apart find a 6 planetary gear set for additional strength.

94Tundra
07-14-2016, 12:49 PM
Ok, thanks! Transfer casehas just been taken up space in my garage. My drivetrain buddy is going to help with the swap, so as long is can be done we can do it. I just didn't want to open a can of worms or gut mine and the other doesn't work... I can go pull a Xj 231 from the junkyard for 100 Bucks, but will have to open regardless as I will be rebuilding anyways, so Which Way would you guys go?

94Tundra
07-14-2016, 01:43 PM
After a little research it looks like you are correct the output is different so I may just have to get a different yoke put on when I get the driveshaft shortened Right

K2
07-14-2016, 11:26 PM
Or add a SYE?