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rstrucks
02-01-2012, 10:25 PM
Aluminum, steel, beadlocks,etc....

Let's discuss - price, durability, weight, DIY beadlocks vs. manufactured BLs, fitment issues you've had, customer service from company X, stiffening rings, style, and whatever else you can think of related to wheels.

ATL ZJ
02-01-2012, 10:38 PM
Raceline customer service sucks endthread.

DIY if cost is primary. Manufactured if function is primary.

I just swapped from steelies with DIY rings that bent into a leakfest every few trips that I then had to dismount (snapping bolts and losing skin off my knuckles along the way), pressing the rings flat and flap-discing them down to smooth out the gouges... to aluminum beadlocks that I mounted in under 2 hours and have close to 24 trail hours on and am yet to touch again. I think it's really premature for a true review but so far so good. Getting them was another story that I won't even get into. At least not yet.

Kraqa
02-01-2012, 10:59 PM
I run rock a thons. They are steel manufactured bead locks. I dent the rims all the time rock racing but I can get them back with a hammer. Which is awesome.


Way better then my DIY bead locks.

lostagain
02-01-2012, 11:35 PM
Raceline customer service sucks endthread.

DIY if cost is primary. Manufactured if function is primary.

I just swapped from steelies with DIY rings that bent into a leakfest every few trips that I then had to dismount (snapping bolts and losing skin off my knuckles along the way), pressing the rings flat and flap-discing them down to smooth out the gouges... to aluminum beadlocks that I mounted in under 2 hours and have close to 24 trail hours on and am yet to touch again. I think it's really premature for a true review but so far so good. Getting them was another story that I won't even get into. At least not yet.

i run DIY's on my XJ and never have had any of those problems, i broke down removed a set of xterrains and installed my creepy's and put them all back together in about 4 hrs for 5. and they have been severely abused for the last 5 yrs with no issues.

SirFuego
02-01-2012, 11:54 PM
I ran Staun Beadlocks for years and will be running Inner Air Locks when I get my build going again. They are pretty much a motorcycle tube with a kevlar cover that goes over it (Staun uses kevlar -- not sure if the IALs use Kevlar or if it's a similar material). As you fill up the tube, it pushes the bead against the lip of the wheel which prevents the bead from both sides from coming off. I really, really like that setup and here are some assessments I made of them over the years:

1) I've personally never installed one from scratch, but they are a PITA for a first-time installer. However, my buddy who installs them for me (and has done numerous sets for himself and other customers) would actually rather do them than a regular beadlock wheel (and it takes him about the same time to do either).
2) Everything is in the installation. If they aren't installed properly, they can make airing up/down a pain since it can block air passages into the tire.
3) Sharp beads (like those found on new Swampers) need to be rounded off or they will cut into the tube eventually damaging it.
4) I would HIGHLY recommend using wheel stiffeners (rock rings) to protect the wheel lip or it'll get all beat up. The rock rings will also protect the valve stems from ripping off.
5) Keep the beadlock at the max PSI (40-45 psi, IIRC?). Keeping them lower can cause the beadlock to move a bit and eventually cause the tube to fail.
6) I'm not aware of any of my friends who have gotten "pinch flats" running Stauns, but know folks that have gotten them with traditional beadlocks. This is just an observation of mine, but my line of thinking is that the inflated inner tube prevents the tire from folding in on itself near the wheel lip.
7) Before learning my lesson about the rock rings, I broke numerous valve stems (which require the outer bead to be broken down to replace the valve stem) and continued to wheel with a flat tire. Never lost a bead. Only damaged one tire, but that was because I ran through a lot of mud, which seeped through the valve stem and was wearing away at the inner part of the tire. In a time-scored competition, I actually ran a trail with 2 flat tires and my foot to the floor when I wasn't dodging trees and didn't lose a bead either.

2 DIY beadlocks (each with 1 inner ring and 1 outer ring) are typically cheaper than a set of 4 rock rings. If you aren't looking for bling, you can usually buy 2 DIY beadlocks, but just ask them to give you 4 inner rings instead of 2 inners and 2 outers. If you are feeling ambitious, you could even put bolts in them for additional traction in the rocks.

Aluminum wheels are nice for weight savings, but that's about it, IMO. Steel is nice, because as Kris said, they can be hammered back into place.

dyn0mitemat
02-02-2012, 06:34 PM
I like steel

I'm swapping an 8.8 in here shortly and have a set of 35/12.5/16's here waiting to go on. I'm looking to pick a set of cheap cragar steel rims up (soft8's or alike). I know the 8.8 is slightly narrower than stock axle, so I need to accomodate for that, plus the slightly wider tire.

So I was wondering what width and what backspacing wheels you guys are running for 8.8 on 35's or similar.
Thanks

CrawlerReady
02-02-2012, 06:40 PM
DIY if cost is primary. Manufactured if function is primary.

I just swapped from steelies with DIY rings that bent into a leakfest every few trips that I then had to dismount (snapping bolts and losing skin off my knuckles along the way), pressing the rings flat and flap-discing them down to smooth out the gouges... to aluminum beadlocks that I mounted in under 2 hours and have close to 24 trail hours on and am yet to touch again. I think it's really premature for a true review but so far so good. Getting them was another story that I won't even get into. At least not yet.

Exactly my thoughts. When I swapped from DIY to manufactured I thought "why in the hell did I deal with those POS DIY's?!" Balancing (if it matters to the person), leaking, and looks are NOT an issue anymore when it comes to manufactured beadlocks. DIY's give way too many problems.

I wouldn't even consider buying new tires again if I still had to deal with the DIY's.

Oh an I run aluminum beadlocks, no issues so far. I'd run them in a heartbeat again.

BigDaveZJ
02-02-2012, 06:56 PM
I like steel

I'm swapping an 8.8 in here shortly and have a set of 35/12.5/16's here waiting to go on. I'm looking to pick a set of cheap cragar steel rims up (soft8's or alike). I know the 8.8 is slightly narrower than stock axle, so I need to accomodate for that, plus the slightly wider tire.

So I was wondering what width and what backspacing wheels you guys are running for 8.8 on 35's or similar.
Thanks

I run 1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers with 4" backspacing 15x8 wheels for 35's on my 8.8 and have been happy with it. It's a touch wider than the front, but I'd rather have that than mismatched wheels.

BigClay
02-02-2012, 07:13 PM
I like steel

I'm swapping an 8.8 in here shortly and have a set of 35/12.5/16's here waiting to go on. I'm looking to pick a set of cheap cragar steel rims up (soft8's or alike). I know the 8.8 is slightly narrower than stock axle, so I need to accomodate for that, plus the slightly wider tire.

So I was wondering what width and what backspacing wheels you guys are running for 8.8 on 35's or similar.
Thanks

I run steel wheels with 2.5" of backspacing, at all four corners. I have a waggy 44 in the front and so the back spacing makes the front a little wider than the back, but he I guess it helps with a turning radius! :D I went this route based on some of other people's experience with wheel spacers and them coming loose.

dyn0mitemat
02-02-2012, 08:23 PM
I run 1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers with 4" backspacing 15x8 wheels for 35's on my 8.8 and have been happy with it. It's a touch wider than the front, but I'd rather have that than mismatched wheels.


I run steel wheels with 2.5" of backspacing, at all four corners. I have a waggy 44 in the front and so the back spacing makes the front a little wider than the back, but he I guess it helps with a turning radius! :D I went this route based on some of other people's experience with wheel spacers and them coming loose.

Thanks for the advice guys, so after spacers and such its looking like I need to be at 2.5-2.75" backspacing.

What width rims are you guys running (and for what width tires)?
Thanks again

SirFuego
02-02-2012, 08:37 PM
I ran 2" (I think -- can double check that) wheel spacers on my 8.8 with 3.75" backspacing on 15x8 steelies. The spacers were a necessity with my suspension setup or my tires would have rubbed on the coil springs. Actually, I have no use for the spacers anymore and could probably pop them off pretty easily for you. PM me if you're interested in buying them. I'd imagine they'd fit pretty easily in a flat rate box. They are the style with studs pressed into them, so they shouldn't require any special long studs. Check the torque on them every once in a while and that bus of nuns will be safe.

dp96zj
02-02-2012, 08:56 PM
Thanks for the advice guys, so after spacers and such its looking like I need to be at 2.5-2.75" backspacing.

What width rims are you guys running (and for what width tires)?
Thanks again
I'm running 15x8 Cragar steelies with 4" backspacing on my ZJ, and have an 8.8 rear with Spidertrax 1.25" spacers. I'm running 33x12.5x15" tires, and this setup (8.8 with spacers) is perfect, IMO.

With the spacers, I think the rear has ~ 1" wider track than the front (stock D30), and I prefer it that way. The tire/wheel combo gives it a nice, wide stance. As long as the 35's aren't too much wider than my 33's, I think you'd be fine with a setup like this.

http://mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?19460-dp96zj-s-Maintenance-Thread&p=293899&viewfull=1#post293899

dyn0mitemat
02-02-2012, 09:06 PM
Sounds good guys, I really appreciate the advice.

I wouldn't mind the extra width at all, I've got all my doors dented or scraped up pretty good so far, all from those off chamber hills where your stuck in ruts and you just lean into the bank on the side. I notice everyone in my jeep club has wide wheels (or fullwidth, spacers, etc, whatever you need to do to get the tires out a bit) and it really helps.

Would 4" BS rims + 2" spacers bee too much for the axle? I do drive it on the street alot (but will reg. check lugs, I don't mind), but don't want to start having problems with the wheel bearings going prematurely or snapping studs off.

rstrucks
02-03-2012, 01:30 AM
I have run regular steel wheels and aluminum BLs (kinda spendy). Like has been stated, it's nice to be able to smack the edge of a steel rim back into shape but the weight penalty bugs me. BLs only make the difference more pronounced. Next time I buy some wheels I'm tempted to go with a regular, cheap aluminum wheel and inner BLs.

The set of Champion BLs I had on my ZJ were a royal PITA to mount whereas my Racelines were a relative cake walk.

GraKee99
02-04-2012, 08:08 PM
I run spyderlocks and they have been good so far. They were good to deal with when it came to informing me on shipping time and any question I had were answered. This is my first set of beadlocks and I am happy with them. No air leaks and didn't have any problem balancing them.

Steel City ZJ
02-04-2012, 10:01 PM
Spyderlocks are what I want when the eventual time comes for me to get new rims.

Sporer65
02-04-2012, 10:05 PM
I got a bent wheel lip on my back wheel, however it still holds air. Can I try and bend it back to semi-normal shape by myself or do I need to have someone else take a look at it. I'm just worried that is pretty big weak spot now and don't want to risk it.

biggoofy
02-04-2012, 10:28 PM
If its steel go for it

BigClay
02-05-2012, 08:26 AM
If it is steel, use a BFH and get it back in shape

GraKee99
02-05-2012, 09:36 AM
Spyderlocks are what I want when the eventual time comes for me to get new rims.

You could probably hit their shop with a rock. :cool:

5.9 ANDY
02-06-2012, 11:00 AM
i have a set of TWF H1 wheels, i dont see any way that i can damage them, and NO way to loose a bead, and moving one tire to another wheel is rather easy.

that being said, they are 16.5"s wich greatly reduce tire options, and they are heavy..... each of my wheel/tire combos weight 150lbs. BTW i have a military 37"

Sporer65
02-06-2012, 11:24 AM
If its steel go for it


If it is steel, use a BFH and get it back in shape

Alright, thanks guys. I was thinking I could but just wanted somebody to back me up. And I plan on swapping in my spare anyways since they're all the same.

SirFuego
02-06-2012, 11:38 AM
Has anyone put stiffeners on the inner bead lip?

BigClay
03-29-2012, 02:49 PM
Looking at a set of used TR beadlocks. Thoughts and opinions?

6364

zjeepin
03-29-2012, 04:40 PM
I've never heard any complaints about trailready's....

why you getting 17's?

BigClay
03-29-2012, 04:43 PM
These are 15s, they are steelies. Guy said they came trailready but I can't find them on their website. Did they ever sell steelies? If not, then they are probably just DIYs using the TR rings.

zjeepin
03-29-2012, 04:52 PM
yeah i've seen steel ones before- at least i think I have.. If they really are DIY's you'd better off staying away from them if you can afford it. Manufactured beadlocks are much easier to work with and much less prone to leaking down over time and more kind to your sided walls in my experience..

BigClay
03-29-2012, 05:09 PM
Yeah, after reading this thread I have learned that manufactured bead locks are certainly the way to go, but the wallet says other wise unfortunately.

zjeepin
03-29-2012, 05:56 PM
Yeah, after reading this thread I have learned that manufactured bead locks are certainly the way to go, but the wallet says other wise unfortunately. mine too so far lol