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rstrucks
11-01-2011, 11:11 AM
What do we know about u-joints? Are the expensive ones worth it, what about the parts store brands? Can a D30/44 sizeds u-joint hold up to 37's and a heavy foot? What are your favorite u-joints made out of? What about cryogenic treatment to improve strength, anybody have any experience or data on how much it helps?

zjeepin
11-01-2011, 12:20 PM
I've had a couple of sets of cryo'ed joints now and ran them with great sucess..

the first set were 760x's that i bought from longfield back in the day.. they were spicers that he had made brass bushings for and cryo'ed the caps and crosses.. I ran them with 33 spline chromo inners and never broke one but I did take out an outer axle or two with them. I sold them to a guy and I never heard what happened to them..

I was running 37 mtrs and beat the piss out of them for 4 or 5 seasons.

I (and several others) are running cryo'ed spicer 60 joints right now.. my new 5.3 and 42's should tell the story pretty quickly on them. cam is running them as well with his 6.0 and stickies so we should be pretty good examples of how they hold up given a few more wheelin trips..

for the money cryo is the way to go..

the yukon super joints and ctm's definately hold up and have warrantys if they don't so if you've got the money for them i'd say go for it but for now i'm happy with my $50 spicers and getting a few guys to go in on a cryo treatment with me..

SirFuego
11-01-2011, 12:35 PM
Let's start to compile a list of aftermarket u-joint options:

CTM:
Considered top of the line. Requires the use of lockout hubs for street use. I've seen these hold up to substantial abuse in a HP44 application. That said, the owner is also meticulous about maintenance and will literally inspect, clean and regrease them around the campfire after each day of wheeling.

Excalibur:
In my discussions with a Pirate vendor a few years ago, pretty much every 300M u-joint (regardless of brand) for the respective application is an "Excalibur" u-joint.

Longfield:
The only 300M u-joint I'm aware of that isn't an Excalibur u-joint. They use a different type of bushing that supposedly is better than those used in the Excalibur u-joint. From what I gather, Bobby Long designed the Excalibur joints as well, but just improved on the design after they were released.

RCV:
Did you really expect me to not mention these? They aren't u-joints, but high strength CV joints. They offer smoother steering and don't lose strength at full steering lock. They are also $$$. For D30/44 applications, it's a wash between RCV shafts and Chromo shafts+CTMs. But they are more expensive than a Chromo/CTM or 300M combo for Dana 60s.

Other helpful threads that I can remember:

Converting to full-circle u-joints:
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?19912-D44-D30-Front-Axle-U-Joint-FULL-CIRCLE-CLIPS&highlight=

My review of RCV joints (well, they aren't u-joints, but do the same job, so I'm including it as a comparison between "aftermarket" CVs and u-joints):
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?22519-Review-RCV-Dana-30-Shafts

ATL ZJ
11-01-2011, 10:01 PM
if somebody wants to dig up the cryo thread from when we were organizing for a batch of 60 joints to be cryoed, there is a TOTM's worth of tech in there.

The improvements from the cryo process on spicer joints are highly debatable although they do seem to be holding up well in at least a couple applications that arguably demand more than spicer joints. With my rig being one of those I'm happy with the cryoed 806x joints so far... even if I have to knock on wood really hard to say that.

The little I've seen of RCVs firsthand is that you pay through the nose for them and ride around on cloud nine until the bells spread and they start clicking and you get to have the lovely warranty conversation.

Did Bobby improve the 300m Long joints? I know a new version came out that was supposed to solve the problems people were having with the trunnions wearing really prematurely due to grease starvation. Do the new ones hold up better?

Are excalibur joints holding up to stickies and HP? Those guys in AZ with stickies full of water and peppy motors would be a good test. Anybody know?

moparrr07
11-02-2011, 12:03 AM
here you go cam, http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?23173-Ujoint-group-buy&highlight=cryo

SirFuego
11-02-2011, 09:34 AM
Did Bobby improve the 300m Long joints? I know a new version came out that was supposed to solve the problems people were having with the trunnions wearing really prematurely due to grease starvation. Do the new ones hold up better?

Our new better 300M Dana 44 and 60 U-Joints now come with 1 grease fitting instead of 4, they are cross drilled which will give you more grease storage. We went with a high impact aluminum nickel bronze bushing. These are much better for high speed than standard bronze and will help prevent galling like our previous joints. These come with full circle c-clips. You are able to rebuild this joint. Just think now only 2 grease fittings instead of 8. Of course they are made in the USA, designed and built by Longfield and come with our lifetime warranty against breakage & free shipping.
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/products.php?product=300M-DANA-44-%26-DANA-60-U-JOINTS-**NEW**

ATL ZJ
11-02-2011, 09:51 PM
Yeah I can read the sales pitch. Does the improvement work as advertised?

SB406
11-03-2011, 12:16 PM
I ran stock joints in my 10 bolt (same joints as 44) with 33's. The last one I broke I believe was a "Brute Force" solid cross joint. It threw the caps in my lawn with the trunions still in 'em. That was the final straw with 1/2 tons, and I went to a D60.
I ran Plain Jane Spicer joints in my 60 for years (35" boggers, then 38" TSL's), and broke numerous 30 spline outters with the same joints. The final stock shaft broken was due to the ears stretching, breaking the previously tacked caps free, and spitting the caps. IMO, if you keep the caps from spinning, a Spicer D60 joint will outlast a stock stub shaft all day.

A little over a year ago, I stepped up to a set of used 35 spline Yukon shafts with Yukon Superjoints in them. Previous owner ran them with 47" LTB's. We rebuilt the joints before installing in my truck (on 39.5" TSL's). The Yukon Joints don't have a bushing, supposedly just a 4340 cross and 4340 cap, and magic grease. I grease them daily when wheeling, and turn out my hubs between trails, to keep them happy. So far so good. I've grenaded a handful of 35 spline Warn Premium hubs, but recently found what I believe is the secret to keeping those together too.

All "testing" above was done with welded front diffs and the axle shafts in phase with each other.

OverkillZJ
11-03-2011, 02:04 PM
The little knowledge I have:
In my D30 I ran Spicer 760's with chromo shafts, and found that when the caps were tacked I didn't destroy joints and shafts constantly. Before tacking the caps they would rotate in the ears of the shafts, wallowing them out and eventually failinig.

in the D60 I ran Longfield 300m joints. I hated greasing them up often as they need it - but I also sat there bouncing off of the rev limiter and never broke anything in that axle.

brad000123
04-23-2012, 02:35 AM
hi ... What about cryogenic treatment to improve strength, anybody have any experience or data on how much it helps?

ATL ZJ
04-23-2012, 09:11 PM
hi ... What about cryogenic treatment to improve strength, anybody have any experience or data on how much it helps?

There are several threads where this has been discussed at decent length at a fairly technical level.
My experience from running cryo joints for over a year is that it helps.
The metallurgy however would suggest that gains on ujoints are minor.
Most any material cryo treated will be stronger than without cryo. But to be fair the percentage strength gain does vary between different materials.

FredGayle55
10-28-2013, 03:58 AM
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