View Full Version : TOTM: Brakes

10-03-2011, 10:50 AM
What are you guys running for brakes on your rigs? Most of us have swapped in an axle or two along the way and that usually involves a change in brakes. What rotors, calipers, master cylinders, and boosters are you using? What about e-brakes? How do your brakes perform?

Ken L
10-03-2011, 11:00 AM
Stock front brakes on the stock D30 here, although I put the best pads that I can get from NAPA on them. Rear is a custom D60, but it's got stock Explorer calipers, rotors and e-brake shoes. Everything works fine for me, with the heavy 33" Swampers it stops just fine on the highway and on the trail. It stops a little quicker with my other, lighter tire/wheel combinations though. I did however disconnect the ABS; I have noticed that it actually stops with more control since I unhooked all that crud.

10-03-2011, 11:54 AM
Running a D44 front and D60 rear with the stock(for that axle) setup. The rear D60 still uses drum brakes. Braking is great, with my 36s I can stop on any kind of downhill grade(even everything I tried in Moab). The ABS is unhooked.

Downside is the pedal is a bit low. Takes a long stroke to to fill those bigger calipers and wheel cylinders. I plan to completly gut the ABS system and go to a MC with more volume.

10-03-2011, 03:02 PM
I am now running Chevy calipers on all 4 corners. I have some brackets up front that were used to convert the big Ford calipers by the PO of the axle. They work well. The rear has the basic weld on disk brake conversion. I used to run an 8 lug HPD44 front with the big Ford calipers and had no issues with that either. I ripped out all the ABS stuff a long time ago and never looked back. Even with the big Fords, I've been hanging off the side of some pretty bad situations and the brakes have never failed me. I did not change anything else, no additional prop. valve. I do not have an e-brake but I will be putting line locks in for the front and rear this winter. I just like the option of being able to lock both independent or together. I know mechanical e brake is better but you know.

10-03-2011, 10:39 PM
Timely topic, I am in the process of refurbishing my whole brake system (right now everything is ripped out with the exception of the brake pedal). I have stock axles thus far (have upgrades waiting for parts in the basement) I have Warn hubs up front as well as VancoPbs knuckels and the Ford Sport Trac calipers(double 48mm pistons). EBC pads and EBC rotors at all four corners and an SSBC adjustable prop valve. I am upgrading to all SS brake hoses, fittings and lines. I've been running the Vanco setup since 2006 and they are definitley better than stock. I am ripping out every component of the ABS system. I will post up in a week or two when I finish.

10-06-2011, 01:47 PM
When I still had my ZJ I ran the following:

- Stock booster
- '01 Durango M/C
- '00 Super Duty dual piston calipers (huge)
- '05ish Ram 1500 Rotors
- Explorer rear discs and calipers

This set up worked great, stopped the heavy Jeep well and provided a good solid feeling pedal. I used the Ram rotors for the 5.5" bolt pattern.

My ZJ probably weighed 5500 lbs, had 37" Pitbulls (heavy ~ 90lbs ea.) on aluminum beadlocks. I just had the stock t-case gearing (2.72:1) and 4.56 gears in the axles. The 5.9 under the hood was mostly stock as well.

10-06-2011, 03:39 PM
I think important info is also tire/wheel combo (weight), as well as crawl ratio & motor (ability of truck to drive over brakes).

Although it's not a GC, I run a 5500# buggy with D60 front/ 14 bolt rear. I ran the stock 14 bolt drums for years without issue. However, my current setup is as follows:

-Stock '79 Chevy K5 booster
-'89 Chevy K3500 Master Cylinder (1.25" bore; P/N:13-2253)
-Stock Chevy D60 calipers up front (single piston; 3.375" bore)
-Stock Chevy 3/4 ton calipers out back (single piston; 2.3125" bore)
-Carbon Metallic pads in front, ceramic in rear
-Built 406 CID Chevy Small Block
-Crawl Ratio 30:1, not counting any factor for Auto trans torque converter slippage (~2:1)
-No prop valve.
-Line lock on rear brakes for front digs
-39.5" Swampers on steel beadlocks

I could not be happier with the current setup. The rear drums worked fine, and I especially enjoyed crawling stuff with the drums. However, the current setup allows me to have terrific control in technical spots, even with a cam that doesn't produce a lot of vacuum at idle. I'm able to hold the truck back, even off idle and stop the heavy wheels/ tires just fine.

11-27-2013, 07:10 AM
A good angle grinder is a key staple IMO. I've got a couple of them in the garage, usually keep one with a cutoff wheel on it, and the other with a flap or grinding disc on it. My workhorse of the 2 is a Milwaukee, the other is Ryobi and isn't quite as nice. Both are close to 10 years old now. As for the abrasives, I buy mine from Heleta

I'm not seeing how that relates to brakes

12-04-2013, 02:32 PM
Anyone try Napa's best and found anything better for normal use? I really like them but as it is a ZJ I can always use more stopping power. They are comparable to Raybestos pro which is no longer available. Wagner sucks, so does OEM. Not sure if the high ends brands offer much for daily driving.

93 grandwagoneer
12-04-2013, 05:38 PM
i have a stock d30 with a disk rear d35 on 33sand i use black magic brake pads with centric rotors its been the best ive ever used. ive been tho napas premium pads ebc green stuff pads plus the oem ones http://shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/

03-29-2014, 02:50 PM
reviving this thread.

In a 2000 WJ
-stock booster & mc
-chevy 1/2 calipers up front
-chevy cadillac rear calipers and rotors

this setup was okay but had tons of issues with the rear cadillac calipers; ebrake never worked, pistons always needed to be rebuilt. I tossed them and put on ford 8.8 discs and it was a world of difference which I was surprised by because I didnt expect the rear brakes to be that noticeable.