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SirFuego
07-19-2010, 11:50 AM
Many trailers are subjected to a lot of abuse. Even a trailer that doesn't see much road time can be abused by simply storing it outside in the elements. So I'd like to have this thread focused on "what to look (out) for" when buying a trailer. Of course, building a trailer is also an option for those with fab skills, so these points can also be taken into consideration when building the trailer. In retrospect, with all the changes/improvements I want to make to my trailer, it might have been cheaper (and easier) to drop a little more coin on a new one. I'm hoping this thread will shed some light on what to look for in a used trailer and also what features to consider if you go new.

My knowledge is on bumper pull trailers, but feel free to chime in about goosenecks if you want.

So let's start with the list focusing on specific areas and going from there:
Weight Rating/Frame
For many of us the heaviest thing being towed on our trailer is going to be our Jeep. A built ZJ can weigh in excess of 5000lbs. As a result, one should be considering a 7000lb trailer as the bare minimum. I have a 7000lb trailer that weighs about 1700lbs -- so you can see that a 5000lb vehicle can quickly get to the maximum rating of the trailer. You also want to be sure that the frame hasn't rotted out or has any structural issues.

Aluminum is lighter and doesn't rust like steel, but it's also much more expensive. Steel is the most common material used for trailers due to cost.

The type of deck is a matter of preference. Wood can dry rot over time, so be sure to check the condition of the wood.

Length/Width
The key thing about the size of the trailer isn't whether the rig will fit on the trailer, but whether you can distribute the load enough to get a safe tongue weight. A bigger trailer gives you more options for adjusting the rig on the trailer to get a safe tongue weight. Given the length of a typical Grand Cherokee, a 16' trailer is about as short as one should go for a trailer, IMO. A little side note is that the "length" of the trailer is intended to describe the length of the bed -- so the actual trailer will be a couple feet longer than that.

As for the width, it turns into an issue primarily if you are running full-width axles. In this case, you need to make sure your trailer is wide enough to safely secure your rig down. In addition, if the track width of your vehicle is wider than the space between your fenders, you need to make sure the fenders are built strong enough to drive over.

Axles/Wheels/Hubs/Brakes
These components are integral to being able to safely spin (and stop) the tires under load, so they are very important to the safety of the trailer.

Bearings are cheap to replace, so I wouldn't consider bad bearings to be a deal breaker if you notice excessive play in the wheels, but that might also be a sign of poor maintenance and/or abuse to the trailer.

There are two types of brakes used on most trailers -- surge and electric. Most wheelers opt for electric brakes for their adjustability. If you are purchasing a trailer without brakes, keep in mind that a brake assembly runs about $50 and a drum with a hub is about $50 as well -- so you are looking at about $200 to put brakes on a single axle. I would recommend brakes on both axles -- and many states require it. So you can see that might make the "great deal" on a brake-less trailer not seen to "great" anymore...

Many states also require a trailer breakway kit -- which is another additional expense if it doesn't have one.

This may sound obvious, but if the PO has installed brakes on one axle, the bolt patterns on the wheels might be different. This was the case with my trailer, but the PO also had a spare drilled with both patterns. Take the cost of installing new brakes and/or hubs with new wheels into consideration as well.

Ramps/Dovetail/Loading support
Whether or not you want a dovetail is a matter of preference. It makes things easier to load/unload, but can be annoying due to lost ground clearance. Make sure that the ramps are easy to remove (i.e. not rusted in place) and in good condition. There are different ways the ramps mount to the trailer, but it really is just a matter of preference. I wish I had the ramps that swing up and down for the convenience. Some of them are event designed to support the weight of the rear of the the trailer, which leads me to...

You might also want to consider whether or not if there is any support to the back of the trailer when loading your rig. My trailer doesn't have any support, so the trailer lifts up my truck a bit while loading/unloading. I've seen this with other friends trailers before, so I'm assuming this is "OK", but I'd prefer to have some sort of swing down jack to support the back of the trailer.

Electrical/Lights
My trailer came with just basic lighting and the wiring was a bit suspect, IMO. Regular trailer wiring was fed through grommet-less holes -- which eventually caused them to chafe on the metal and short out the tail lights. I would check the wiring, because more often that not, I'm guessing it's going to need to be rewired unless the PO already did it. I would also HIGHLY recommend a side marker wired into the taillights on or near the front of the fender. This makes visibility of your trailer so much better in the dark.

Tie Downs
Many trailers come with stake pockets, but they are not necessarily designed or intended to be used as tie downs for our vehicles due to the way we normally tie our rigs down. If the trailer doesn't already have D rings installed, I would be sure to get at least 4 of the heavy duty ones. I would also recommend a 5th tie down in the front middle of the trailer bed if you think you need to use your rig's winch to get you on the trailer.

Tires
I've been told (by a few people) that the normal "life" of a trailer tire is 4 years whether it's been used much or not due to the way the rubber deteriorates. So be sure to check the age of the trailer tires. If they are approaching (or older than) 4 years old, you will need to consider the fact that new tires are probably an immediate necessity for reliable towing. I just recently purchased a set of "D" rated 225s and they ran a little over $100/tire, IIRC. So again, that's $400 you might need to put into a used trailer that could have gone towards a new one. Be sure to check the load rating and type of tire as well. From my understanding, actual trailer tires come with a stiffer sidewall and don't bulge as much as regular car tires under load, so they generate less heat -- which means less chance of a blow out. My D rated tires are good for 2540lbs/tire -- so that's able to handle a load much heavier than the trailer is rated for.

I'm sure I missed a bunch of stuff, but I'll add to this as I think of more, but I'm hoping this will help to eliminate the "if I knew then what I know now" comments for those looking to purchase a trailer. Buying a used one can seem like a good deal (and it really might be), but just beware that needed maintenance, additions, and upgrades might "nickel and dime" you to the point of approaching the cost of a new trailer.

rstrucks
07-19-2010, 12:42 PM
Good thread with good info.

SirFuego
07-19-2010, 12:46 PM
Whoops! Fixed it. I meant to say "lighter".