PDA

View Full Version : Another weld stick Q



ZJ TINS
02-15-2009, 06:52 PM
IF I understand the info correctly, 6011 is fast freeze 6013 is kinda all around. Is it worth getting both (6011 for overhead, 6013 for everything else)? Other suggestions? Also looks like any 7xxx series needs to be oven dried whereas 6xxx if kept in a dry container seems to be ok (maybe some desiccant) Thoughts?

kfab
02-15-2009, 10:07 PM
get you some 7018 its good for almost all plus you would wanna use 6010 not 6011 6011 is for stainless also 7018 litterally runs itslelf

rccolacc
02-16-2009, 10:08 AM
get you some 7018 its good for almost all plus you would wanna use 6010 not 6011 6011 is for stainless also 7018 litterally runs itslelf

Dude. Learn how to write with periods. It's called a sentence.

Here's an article on Wikipedia about it:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shielded_metal_arc_welding
"Common electrodes include the E6010, a fast-freeze, all-position electrode with a minimum tensile strength of 60 ksi (410 MPa) which is operated using DCEP. Its cousin E6011 is similar except that it is used with alternating current. E7024 is a fast-fill electrode, used primarily to make flat or horizontal welds using AC, DCEN, or DCEP. Examples of fill-freeze electrodes are the E6012, E6013, and E7014, all of which provide a compromise between fast welding speeds and all-position welding"

I've taken a few classes on welding and I have my own AC welder. I tend to not complicate things, so here's my take on welding rods:
You need to store welding rods in a dry place, but especially the rods with low hydrogen (like the 7018s). Low hydrogen rods tend to wick the moisture out of the air and the flux will peel off the rod before you weld (leaving you with posible porosity in the weld). You don't necessarily need to keep them in an oven, unless you're about to weld on a nuclear submarine or something.
6011 rods are deep penetrating, but are not a pretty weld (they leave a lot of slag). They're good for welding up something rusty or painted. 6013 rods are just a good all around rod. 7018 rods don't penetrate as well, but have good surface tension properties, plus they are a pretty weld (they're sometimes difficult to start though).
Make sure you get the right rod for your machine (AC or DC). 7018s are mostly a DC rod, although Lincoln does sell an AC 7018 (be careful when you buy them).
In the oil field, a lot of guys use the 6011 rod first pass, and then follow it up with mulitple 7018 passes. This makes sure the weld is burned in well, plus the surface of the pipe is strong with the 7018s.
If you're just starting out with welding, I'd get the 6013s and just practice laying beads. I just finished a building a log splitter with them, and they seem to be holding up well, as well as look pretty good.
Hope this helps.
-RC

violatedppl
03-23-2009, 10:44 PM
7018 for what your doing 7018 just needs to be kept dry like inside your house dry. 6013 is a low penetration rod made for sheet metal and to look pretty, not the greatest for strength unless you know how to use high heat and did it in. 6010 should be your go to rod, will burn up any crap in the way of the weld if its not totaly clean. and the 7xxx is just the tinsel(sp) strength of the weld. Its the XX18 that makes the difference its a low hydrogen rod, Ive used 12018 which is a 120 thousand psi tensil strength. And you can arc gouge with 6010 if you can put enough power through it, Just dip in water for a second and go to town.

ZJ TINS
04-17-2009, 01:04 PM
Now that i am welding i just want to plug Lincoln, their weld rods are made in USA from american materials (bought at Home Depot). Work great and prices close to the the Harbor Freight stuff.