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View Full Version : Stumped... attention fabricators!



ELLLLLIOTTTTT
12-27-2008, 08:47 PM
So I got a nice set of seats for the Cruiser today. I assumed I could fab up a bracket of some sort to attach the new seats to the stock mounts. However, after scratching my head for A LONG time I cannot find a way to mount these suckers.

Anyone want to come over and help me get these things attached? There'll be free beer. :-D

Here is the stock mounting points. The front two mounts are horizontal and the rear two are vertical.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a349/Puma297/CruiserInt/_MG_7080.jpg

And here are a couple pictures of the new seats mounting bracketry (sans the seat of course). The mounting points are about 2.75" wider side to side.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a349/Puma297/CruiserInt/_MG_7081.jpg

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a349/Puma297/CruiserInt/_MG_7082.jpg

Thanks for any ideas. I'm stumped.

CurtP
12-27-2008, 08:57 PM
Any pictures of the stock seat sliders? Is it possible to bolt the stock sliders to your new seats? I think it would be easier to convert your original sliders to the new seats than it would be to adapt the new sliders to the body.

If you need to use those sliders, you may be able to knock off the mounting brackets and use allen head bolts through the track directly into the threads - that's the way Porsche mounts their seats.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
12-27-2008, 09:18 PM
I disassembled both seats and there is no way to adapt the stock sliders to the new seats. Not that I can figure anyway. Its almost like these seats were designed 25 years after the Cruiser. :D

I'll keep that other idea in mind. I've got a few weeks before the seats will be officially bolted in anyway. Hopefully by then something will come up.

Ted_Z
12-27-2008, 10:32 PM
On the new sliders, drill out the rivets for the front anchor tabs, and remove them. Drill new holes on the top of the original mounts spaced for the rivet holes of the new sliders. Use a low profile bolt in the rivot holes, like a button head, or grind a hex head down so the slider mechanics will clear it.

On the rear, since the top of the mount is angled funny you can't use that surface. From the pictures the rear face of the original rear mount looks close to vertical. Take a piece of angle and run it accross the back of the original mounts. Cut it so it matches the width of the new sliders. Drill and bolt the angle to the back face of the original mounts. Drill out the rivets for the rear "feet" on the new sliders and toss them. Drill and bolt the sliders to the angle through the riviet holes with a low profile bolt like in the front.

I hope all the above is clear. :)

AprilzWarrior
12-27-2008, 11:08 PM
Id cut the mounts from the floor and reweld them to fit the rear of the seat, and weld angle iron to the front with a nut welded to the bottom of the angle so you just have to drop a bolt from the top, or visa versa.


AW

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
12-28-2008, 03:31 AM
Jerod,

That's actually a great idea. I'll mull that one around in the old noodle for a bit.

TedZ,

I like your advice as well. I just want something thats fairly easy. I don't have a welder in the garage but I'm sure if I twisted a certain someones arm, I could probably use his. :D

-E

Spr-T-23
12-28-2008, 04:41 PM
get some steel and make some adapter brakets from the new sliders to the body

haymaker
12-29-2008, 12:06 AM
get some steel and make some adapter brakets from the new sliders to the body


^^what he said. Although cutting the mounts from the floor would be the best way to do it that sounds like its just way more work than its worth.

Interesting project you got goin on there!:smt023

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
12-29-2008, 01:16 AM
get some steel and make some adapter brakets from the new sliders to the body


Thank you for your deep and detailed response. I had originally planned to Mighty Putty(TM) them to whatever they made contact with, but I think your idea is much better! Did you get your engineering doctorate at MIT or was it Stanford? Either way, I feel completely honored that you bestowed upon me this stellar design concept on such an amateur project. Do you have a paypal account, or possibly an offshore account, into which I can donate appropriate reimbursement for your intellectual wizardry? I simply couldn't live with myself accepting such a gracious, albeit pithy response at no charge.

JordanA
12-29-2008, 01:22 AM
Thank you for your deep and detailed response. I had originally planned to Mighty Putty(TM) them to whatever they made contact with, but I think your idea is much better! Did you get your engineering doctorate at MIT or was it Stanford? Either way, I feel completely honored that you bestowed upon me this stellar design concept on such an amateur project. Do you have a paypal account, or possibly an offshore account, into which I can donate appropriate reimbursement for your intellectual wizardry? I simply couldn't live with myself accepting such a gracious, albeit pithy response at no charge.


burn

IndyZJ
12-29-2008, 02:37 AM
I'd go with 2" angle iron across the back like AW said, then weld studs/ bolts on the bottom of the tracks where they hit the front factory floor mount, then drill 2 holes for the studs to drop through - similar to CurtP's idea, but with no chance of the sliders getting hung up on anything and easier to tighten down.

Whatever you do, make sure you're comfortable with the height of the seat before you do any real work. Nothing sucks quite like fabbing up mounts like that only to put the seat in and find out your head smacks the headliner...

CurtP
12-29-2008, 09:33 AM
Thank you for your deep and detailed response. I had originally planned to Mighty Putty(TM) them to whatever they made contact with, but I think your idea is much better! Did you get your engineering doctorate at MIT or was it Stanford? Either way, I feel completely honored that you bestowed upon me this stellar design concept on such an amateur project. Do you have a paypal account, or possibly an offshore account, into which I can donate appropriate reimbursement for your intellectual wizardry? I simply couldn't live with myself accepting such a gracious, albeit pithy response at no charge.

:smt044


I was just looking at the pictures again - are the new sliders also 15" apart? From the picture, it looks like they're wider. Are there brackets riveted to the original sliders, or are the mounts stamped into them? Those rear mounts have an odd angle. The original setup kind of reminds me of the ZJ slider setup, just off the floor.

I think the front mounts won't be too hard, but the rear mounts may be a challenge. I'm not a fan of cutting the floorboard to accommodate these seats - you may want to put original seats back in it one day (at least that's usually my theory anyway).

Spr-T-23
12-29-2008, 04:13 PM
ok ass clown if you are ingoring obvious solutions thats not my problem. you are asking a dumb question so expect a similer answer. so how about you spend less time asking people to figure out your simple issues and get out and do something about it.

Thanks, T

IndyZJ
12-29-2008, 04:22 PM
ok ass clown if you are ingoring obvious solutions thats not my problem. you are asking a dumb question so expect a similer answer. so how about you spend less time asking people to figure out your simple issues and get out and do something about it.

Thanks, T

You gave him a dumb answer, he gave you a dumb, yet funny response. Consider yourself pwned.

Don't get all butt hurt because somebody made a joke :D

Spr-T-23
12-29-2008, 04:24 PM
i only put forth the same effort in my response as he put in fuguring it out himself

jsteves
12-29-2008, 04:29 PM
ok ass clown if you are ingoring obvious solutions thats not my problem. you are asking a dumb question so expect a similer answer. so how about you spend less time asking people to figure out your simple issues and get out and do something about it.

Thanks, T

How about you spend less time being a post whore and actually do something, anything, worth while with your life. Get a job, go wheeling, build something. Just please leave our forum.

ELLLLLIOTTTTT
12-29-2008, 11:12 PM
Just mocked them up with the actual seat assembled and my head is in the headliner. I'm thinking I might have to cut out the stock mounts. Anyone want to come over and put in their 2 cents?

SuicideTireZJ
12-30-2008, 12:12 AM
If you can make it up here I've got some time off the next couple days, a bunch of tools, grinder, welder, etc.

cjchamp
01-02-2009, 10:27 PM
Nevermind....See above post
Good luck

AprilzWarrior
01-02-2009, 11:16 PM
Nevermind....See above post
Good luck

That was NOT the original message I recieved in my email. LOL

cjchamp
01-03-2009, 01:28 PM
Yeah, I re-read his original post. I just skimmed it before. And my initial reaction was "why is this dude getting jumped on for a reasonable answer?" But then I read his initial post and found his post to be smart ass too...so have at it:)

TrojanMan
01-03-2009, 05:00 PM
If you didn't move out to the middle of fuck nowhere i'd love to help you out. Too bad you aren't in WS anymore :(

zj-monster
01-03-2009, 06:47 PM
I had originally planned to Mighty Putty(TM) them to whatever they made contact with

Darn it Elliot you know that Putty crap ain't safe. You need the stuff that's strong enough to hold a man in mid-air!

http://www.jungleblowgun.com/images/krazy_glue.jpg

chadjans
01-20-2009, 12:48 AM
Whatever you do don't make it extremely excessive.

-=Lurker=-
01-20-2009, 02:08 AM
I personally would just grind off the factory seat-mounts (flush to the floor). It'll be alot stronger and easier to fab up starting at the flat floor rather than try to make something work around that which wasn't designed for the seats you are planning to put in.

Take some angle steel and flat steel and build it right. If you don't have a welder, use a chopsaw to cut the steel to length and a drill to punch holes for bolts. You of course have to take good measurements and plan it out but it'll do fine. That's just my opinion though. Just make sure any bolts going thru the floor are backed up on the bottomside by some steel plates as that sheetmetal is pretty weak for bolts.