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buggy79
10-02-2008, 02:40 PM
Whats up?Awesome site!!Thought I`d post some pics of the comanche I`m building.Got it for free with 144,000 miles 4.0 auto rusty as hell so I started cutting all the rust off and theres not much comanche left bed and frame underneath it were goners as were the doors and floorboards,But thats what you get in IL nothin but rust.So I picked up couple hundred feet of 1 1/2 tubing and started bending and this is what I came up with let me know what you think/

aaron
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/115_1421.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/sepia004.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/tub003.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/tub004.jpg

froggo27
10-02-2008, 06:49 PM
sweetness!

dangerousdave
10-02-2008, 07:44 PM
looks sweet. Do you have any pics of the build or stats?

Goosed76
10-02-2008, 09:23 PM
I've had the idea of getting a Comanche eventually, cheaper than my ZJ to build, front suspension is identical to an XJ, and the rear is a simple spring over kit, and you're at 5.5" with a dirt cheap truck- and you just don't see a whole lot of Comanches here in Oregon, think I've ran into 1 lifted one locally. Finding a 4.0L 5 speed 4x4 has proven near impossible though.

rstrucks
10-03-2008, 09:45 AM
MJ's are bad ass. What did you use for a fuel tank. Mine had a rusted fuel tank (sat outside w/o fuel pump cover on it) and I threw in an XJ fuel tank. I just bent the factory fuel lines to fit and even the wiring harness fit w/o modification.

You just gonna run the stock drivetrain until something breaks or do you have swap plans already?

buggy79
10-03-2008, 01:11 PM
Actually the fuel tank was the only thing that doesnt have rust on it!It is mounted under the tool box you can see it in the pics if you look close.I bought everything to link the rear and do a long arm in front and got laid off 2 weeks ago:mad:I was looking for different axles when that happened so with all my spare time Im going to get it running with what I have and do the axle swap when I get back to work and get money.I plan on welding the front and running turning brakes in the rear,also running king air shocks in the rear (not the ones in pic those are off my buggy)eventually the front will be the same,have 2 35 boggers for the rear and 33`s for the front:cool:Just have to see how long the axles will last cause I`m not easy on anything I drive offroad:smt047


aaron
Heres a pic of my other toy
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/000_0165.jpg

buggy79
10-14-2008, 08:56 PM
Well I got laid off and got quite a bit done on the truck 4 link in rear is done turning brakes mounted and bled figuring out where to mount shocks and coils
cooler etc.Looking for some longer coils for front if anybody has any let me know budgets kind of tight now not working but like to see what You have?Heres a few pics I have of 4 link.

aaron
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/truck007.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/truck008.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/truck011.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/truck010.jpg

Goosed76
10-14-2008, 09:11 PM
sweet!! everyone should own a truggy!!

xtremzj
10-14-2008, 09:26 PM
ugly as sin, but its not in car show...

paulkeith
10-15-2008, 09:38 AM
that looks like an awful lot of rear steer. what size is that link material? do those lowers go to a single joint on the frame?

MoonWorks
10-15-2008, 12:12 PM
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/truck008.jpg


Looks like you're making good use of your time atleast. Do you have another pic of this. Asking b/c I'm not sure I'm understanding what the "cross tube" that looks like its connecting your lower links is doing. Looks too low to go over the pinion but not low enough to go under (which wouldn't make since b/c of clearance).

And what tcase are you running. Asking b/c you said you were going to run 33's up front and 35's out back.


that looks like an awful lot of rear steer. what size is that link material? do those lowers go to a single joint on the frame?

Thats the first thing I noticed in the pics. It's got a ton of rear steer right now.

buggy79
10-15-2008, 04:03 PM
The cross tube goes under the ds with an 1 1/2 clearance.Its the stock transfer case for now.I didn`t really notice to much rear steer when I jacked it up maybe I will check it again?Think it just`s looks worse in pic?It will not go that far up when I`m done with it I will stop it atleast a foot before it goes that far,If it does have to much reat steer how do you fix it?I am using 1 1 1/4 heim joint on the bottom center with 1 1/2 dom tubing and the top is 1 1/4 chromo with 3/4 heims.If it doesnt work I will cut it off and try something else.Thanks for the help The only reason I actually tried this is the frame was so rusted I didnt think it would last one ride before the leafs broke off:eek:From where I cut it off to the front is hardly rusty, since I live in IL and we love salt thats what happens and I think this used to be used as a plow truck as I found a few western plow warning stickers on the inside cab.Heres a side view of the rear is that what you wanted?

aaron
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/truck009.jpg

buggy79
10-18-2008, 09:58 AM
I checked to see how much the tire moved forward when it was all the way up and it moved almost an inch.That doesnt seem to be to bad?Or should it be less?

aaron

96greenxjjeep
10-26-2008, 11:47 AM
nice i like the look of the rear

Gravesdigger
10-27-2008, 11:41 AM
all that work looks good buy why on a dana 35 rear axle?

Cue-Ball
10-27-2008, 02:47 PM
I love it so far, but agree you might consider axles swaps rather than a D35.

Will be watching this build.

I would love to find one to use as a DD to be honest.

buggy79
10-27-2008, 04:58 PM
I love it so far, but agree you might consider axles swaps rather than a D35.

Will be watching this build.

I would love to find one to use as a DD to be honest.
I had planned on getting different axles but I`m a union operator and work has slowed way down around here so I haven`t been working enough to pay the bills so I decided to use d35 for now to make sure everything is going to work and hopefully work will pick up next year and I will get different ones.

aaron

buggy79
11-23-2008, 08:52 PM
I picked this up today its a sf 14 bolt out of a chevy truck is it worth using?Can it be converted to disc brakes and ff?I also have the 44 front that I cant use if anybody close wants to trade for something I could use let me know?It has pass side drive and I need driver side.

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i187/bagnell_2006/14bolt001.jpg
Thanks aaron

FortCollinsZJ
11-25-2008, 06:37 PM
Yes that 14 bolt is 100000X better than the dana 35. You have yourself a damn nice rear axle now. IIRC You can get bolt-on nd weld-on disc brake conversion brackets from Ballistic Fab... But I dont know if a comanche braking system will hold up to big discs. That would most likely need upgrading.

Ted_Z
11-25-2008, 06:59 PM
For rear disc bakes, swap the master cyl and booster from a late model XJ or ZJ, then use the prop valve from a ZJ.

The semi-float 14 bolt has a 9.5" ring gear and 33-spline axles. Plenty strong and a reasonable amount of aftermarket support.

buggy79
11-26-2008, 07:03 PM
Thanks for the replys!I found out You need late model dodge front rotors and GM calipers to put brakes on it.I definitely need a prop valve (forgot about that)When I redid the brake lines good call:cheer:Can you pick up one of them at auto parts store or dealer only,or junkyard.

Lot of people on pirate say the stock master will be fine so I may try that first?Or do you know from experience that has to be done?

aaron

adam99wj
11-26-2008, 08:07 PM
late model dodge rotors wont work unless you re drill them for the 6x5.5 bolt pattern that the sf 14 has.

You will need rotors, calipers, pads, front brake lines and banjo bolts for an 76-87 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup 6 lug FRONT axle. All these parts can be purchased at your local auto parts store in a variety of flavors. ,


as for swaping the master cyl , some ppl get away without swapping it and some ppl do have to swap it , i think the best thing is a 86 E350 1 ton ford van master cyl will bolt right to your booster and they are cheap, take a look at the link a bit of info there

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2794&highlight=kung+brake

buggy79
11-26-2008, 10:45 PM
late model dodge rotors wont work unless you re drill them for the 6x5.5 bolt pattern that the sf 14 has.

You will need rotors, calipers, pads, front brake lines and banjo bolts for an 76-87 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup 6 lug FRONT axle. All these parts can be purchased at your local auto parts store in a variety of flavors. ,


as for swaping the master cyl , some ppl get away without swapping it and some ppl do have to swap it , i think the best thing is a 86 E350 1 ton ford van master cyl will bolt right to your booster and they are cheap, take a look at the link a bit of info there

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2794&highlight=kung+brake
My master cylinder I have looks nothing like the one in post #2 it looks more like the f350 one he put on! The axle I have is 8 lug thats why I was told to use dodge 8 lug rotors?So do I need 8 lug chevy or will dodge work?

Thanks for the help aaron
file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Owner/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-8.jpg

adam99wj
11-27-2008, 11:33 AM
i think dodge should work then, i thought the axle was 6 bolt, but the old chevy rotors are cheap like 30-40 bux each , most of the kits for sale online reccomends 3/4 ton chevy front stuff