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Z
08-06-2008, 11:33 AM
My front-of-engine skid plate uses 4 nuts in a hard-to-get-to place. The bolts that go into the nuts don't require a lot of force, maybe just a little more than finger tight. The skid plate needs to be removed for each oil change, so I'm trying to make this as easy as possible.

There is no easy way to weld these nuts to the mounting surface - would a little JB Weld keep the nuts in place (assuming I don't get any on the bolt treads!!)? Superglue? Anything else?

BigDaveZJ
08-06-2008, 12:05 PM
Nutsert?

Z
08-06-2008, 12:19 PM
Nutsert?

Hmmm, maybe. I'll have to take another look at the area.

Kraqa
08-06-2008, 03:52 PM
i wouldn't use JB weld.

i dont have an answer for you but i do knwo the JB weld is not that stong. especially for a skid plate.

Z
08-06-2008, 03:58 PM
i wouldn't use JB weld.

i dont have an answer for you but i do knwo the JB weld is not that stong. especially for a skid plate.

The front of the skid plate rests on a crossmember. The nut goes on top of the crossmember, the bolt goes on the bottom of the skidplate. So, the bolt is really just holding the plate against the crossmember - the crossmember provides the support. The bolt just has to be finger tight to do its work.

BigDaveZJ
08-06-2008, 05:24 PM
Tom, my concern would be that at "finger tight" the chances of it loosening and letting go completely go up a LOT.

Z
08-06-2008, 05:46 PM
Tom, my concern would be that at "finger tight" the chances of it loosening and letting go completely go up a LOT.

Threadlocker.

By the way, do you know anywhere in Denver to get 4 nutserts (not bulk)? The bolts are pretty small - probably something like 1/4" (I was surprised at how small they were, but again, they just hold things up, not really structural).

Nutserts, if I can fit them, are certainly the right way to go.

LouisianaZJ
08-06-2008, 08:17 PM
you just thread the bolt thru the "back" where the nut is. Put a nylock nut on it w/o the skidplate. put the skidplate over the nuts and thread a nut on the outside.

obviously would not be as strong as oem and might hit the nut on a rock, but it does not seem like it sees too much action anyway

Z
08-06-2008, 11:01 PM
A&A Trading Post has nutserts.

The bolts are countersunk, so would prefer to keep it that way - plus I'm not sure there's enough room put to push the bolts through from the top.

CurtP
08-06-2008, 11:47 PM
McMaster Carr; open-end knurled rivet nuts. I've used them in several applications without issue and they're available in different materials (including stainless and zinc-yellow chromate). I make the hole as close to the same size as the rivnut and put a little Loctite red on the knurl before setting it.

They also carry nut inserts which are stronger and I set those the same way. In addition, there's captive nuts (in both broach and clinch).

From the main page, go down to fastening and sealing and look for threaded inserts.

piku303
08-07-2008, 01:38 AM
could you cut a hole in the skid, not compromising too much structural integrity, that would allow you to access the oil filter without removing the skid?

Z
08-07-2008, 08:41 AM
could you cut a hole in the skid, not compromising too much structural integrity, that would allow you to access the oil filter without removing the skid?

I had thought about that, but would still want it covered, just easier to remove than the whole skid. However, to remove the skid (assuming I find a solution to the loose nuts), you remove the front 4 countersunk bolts, loosen (not remove) 2 rear bolts, off comes the skid. Pretty easy, really.

piku303
08-07-2008, 09:03 PM
I had thought about that, but would still want it covered, just easier to remove than the whole skid. However, to remove the skid (assuming I find a solution to the loose nuts), you remove the front 4 countersunk bolts, loosen (not remove) 2 rear bolts, off comes the skid. Pretty easy, really.

make a mini unboltable section with a 1/8 plate that bolts to the bottom of where you cut the hole. you could take off the skid(for the last time) and tack weld the nuts on the top of the skid so that you run the bolt up through to bottom of the unboltable section and up in to the nuts on the top side of the main skid to secure removable portion. does this make sense?

this way you will not have to alter the way the skid is attached and still gain easy and quick access to the oil filter. yes youll have to still weld but its not a big deal to tack weld the nuts to the skid plate. now if the reason you cant weld is because you dont have a welder...then i dont know if you could do it.

piku303
08-07-2008, 09:07 PM
There is no easy way to weld these nuts to the mounting surface - would a little JB Weld keep the nuts in place (assuming I don't get any on the bolt treads!!)? Superglue? Anything else?

or you could shoot the whole area around the nuts with SILICONE GLUE, while the bolts are inside the nut to ensure none gets in the nut. it would be like a tack between the nut and unibody or whatever the mounting surface is. that stuff should be more than strong enough to keep the nut from spinning.

Z
08-08-2008, 10:34 PM
Found an easy solution. The holes are close enough to use U nuts.

http://oemfasteningsystems.thomasnet.com/product/itw-cip/-u-nuts

egg
08-09-2008, 02:25 AM
what about getting one of those fram sure drain things? then you won't have to remove the skid plate to change your oil.

Z
08-09-2008, 08:45 AM
what about getting one of those fram sure drain things? then you won't have to remove the skid plate to change your oil.

Maybe in 18 months when I'm out of my free oil changes from the dealership.

Mtn WJ
08-19-2008, 10:39 AM
I see you found a solution. I saw this thread late and was thinking the same idea of using the U-nuts like used on car body panels.

I had a similar problem with putting a hitch on a 96 full size Bronco. Not enough room to put the 5/8s nut through and still hold it in place while I wrenched the bolt down. I ended up brazing a brass brazing rod to the nut and held it in place while I wrenched the bolt down. Worked really good. I later found a kit from Ford that was kind of the same concept.

chadjans
08-19-2008, 12:48 PM
i wouldn't use JB weld.

i dont have an answer for you but i do knwo the JB weld is not that stong. especially for a skid plate.

The filler material in JB weld can't handle the torque.

I would have used a deformed thread lock nut and welded it to the surface it is torqued against.

CurtP
08-19-2008, 08:58 PM
what about getting one of those fram sure drain things? then you won't have to remove the skid plate to change your oil.

I know a couple of people are less than thrilled with the Fram SureDrain. Between leaking and loosing the special fitting required to make it work, it looks like the Fumoto QwikValve is a better solution. I have the Fumoto on most of my vehicles (all but the Porsche, and it will end up with one).