PDA

View Full Version : Another Trailer Thread



SCAMPER ZJ
05-08-2008, 05:43 PM
OK, know this has been talked about, and have reviewed some of the old threads. Would like to get some fresh opinions though. Looking to pick up a trailer, solely for the purpose of towing the ZJ around. I'm currently looking at:

http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/Trailer10kHDjack.jpg

http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/Trailer12k.jpg

The first is a 16x7' - lists 6k axles but the "official" GVW is 9990. I had this explained to me as the axles are "light 6's" - hmm. I like the HD jack though.

The second is also a 16x7', rated 12k GVW. I think both trailers are around 2500 lbs (I will check to be sure later this week, and also take pics of the stickers with the ratings so I can be more precise on GVW/wt).

So. . .is 16' long enough? I see a lot of people with 18's. Also, is 10k GVW pushing it? I figure my ZJ weighs around 5k (maybe a little more - should go to a weigh station to find out for sure). With wt of ZJ + trailer I figure I'm well under 10k. Thoughts? Also, I'm avoiding a dovetail for now, but I'm open to suggestions.

Hope to get it bought this wk, put a $50 deposit on the first trailer ($3250, I think).

Cody
05-08-2008, 06:42 PM
I ran a 16x7 trailer with 3500 lb axles. It weighed 1700 lbs.


3200 for a trailer seems like a spectacular deal....for the guy selling it to you.

BigDaveZJ
05-08-2008, 06:54 PM
16' is about as short as you'd wanna go with a ZJ. Mine fits just fine on my 16'er but there's not a lot of room left over for a toolbox or anything else. My trailer is rated to 7k and handles my ZJ just fine, so a 10k or 12k will definitely work well. I paid $2250 for my trailer too. Not quite as heavy duty as that one, but it works.

EDIT: I agree with you on avoiding the dovetail as well.

cLAYH
05-08-2008, 08:50 PM
I have an 18" for hauling mine around and am thinking about going longer to put more junk on. You don't need 10K GVW to haul your ZJ but it will make the trailer and tires last longer. Overkill isn't a bad thing. But if it was a choice between a 18ft 7000# and a 16ft 10000# I would go with the longer deck.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-08-2008, 10:57 PM
I have an 18" for hauling mine around and am thinking about going longer to put more junk on. You don't need 10K GVW to haul your ZJ but it will make the trailer and tires last longer. Overkill isn't a bad thing. But if it was a choice between a 18ft 7000# and a 16ft 10000# I would go with the longer deck.

I've had a couple of people encourage me to look for an 18'. I'll see what I can find tomorrow.

This is the other one I was looking at at Jayhawk Trailers (http://www.jayhawktrailers.com/):

http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/TrailerPJ18+2.jpg

It's an 18'+2' dual 7k dovetail with BIG STANDUP RAMPS (I think they'd just get in the way, and again, I'm not a huge fan of the dove). $3650. OUCH.

Lots of selection today at All American Trailers (http://www.allamericandenver.com/). I'll post up if I find anything more promising at Trailer Source (http://www.trailersourceinc.com/) after tomorrow morning's trip there. Hopefully I can find something a little less expensive, but I've been looking around for a couple weeks and anything new tends to be running about about that range.

DJJordache
05-08-2008, 10:59 PM
no actual help to add other than the first one is kinda ricey:D

BigDaveZJ
05-08-2008, 11:11 PM
There's a place in KS that has screaming deals on trailers, but for some reason Eric has CO4x4 set to purge all the Tow Rig and Trailer posts after 1 year so I can't find it. When I was looking, it was worth the drive, but I found a great price on one in Rapid City and I was already there, so it worked out better.

EDIT: Remembered the place, www.cochranfarmsupply.com (http://www.cochranfarmsupply.com)

naturalbornmudder
05-08-2008, 11:25 PM
I use an 18 ft dovetail. I have no particular love for the dovetail as far as departure angles in things as shallow as runoff gutters in driveways and such. However, the trailer was 6 months old I bought it for 2000. Fully lit, with ramps( no ramp storage tho) 7000 pound axles, brakes on 1 axle, etc.
IIRC, EBAY had some killer deals 10 or 12 months ago that seemed to be re occuring.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-08-2008, 11:43 PM
Remembered the place, www.cochranfarmsupply.com (http://www.cochranfarmsupply.com)

I used their online form to request a quote on a 7x18' 10k diamond plate fenders and heavy duty jack. Won't have time to pick it up though, so even if there's big savings to be had it'll be a wash at best if I have it delivered:

http://www.psndealer.com/dealersite/images/NewVehicles/NV76332_1.jpg

nate
05-08-2008, 11:53 PM
That's more or less what my trailer looks like, though I have 1/4" thick fenders.

I paid $3000 for mine and that was a kick ass deal. I called trailer dealers all over the western US. Texas was the only place with better prices, but after factoring in fuel to pick it up, it wouldn't of been any savings.

OverkillZJ
05-09-2008, 12:05 AM
Go 18' if you can. You may not normally need it, but towing another 2' is hardly an effor, and should you ever need to tow a 1ton truck that broke down ANY *short* distance regardless of weight, it can come in handy.

chadjans
05-09-2008, 12:18 AM
At least 7K capacity, dual brakes, NO dovetail, 18ft is nice, 84" between fenders, drive on fenders (diamond plate are not drive on) and hinged ramps. Get it home and all the things they don't: paint the underside, spare tire mount, chain rails, d rings, seal the wood and spare tire mount.

AprilzWarrior
05-09-2008, 12:36 AM
I used their online form to request a quote on a 7x18' 10k diamond plate fenders and heavy duty jack. Won't have time to pick it up though, so even if there's big savings to be had it'll be a wash at best if I have it delivered:

http://www.psndealer.com/dealersite/images/NewVehicles/NV76332_1.jpg


Mine is the same make PJ, 7K axles 20" 2" dove tail (love it). Ive ran my trailers all over my ranch towing shit and have NEVER gotten stuck, my truck pulls right on through.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-09-2008, 10:24 AM
Friend of mine from Texas just informed me a mutual friend here in Colorado was in Kansas for the weekend so I called Mike Cochran at Cochran Farm Supply. . .they had 20 sold the last 10 days and are OUT of the PJ trailers I want for the next two weeks!! 18-20’ x 83” with removable fenders (making it 88” wide) with 10k jack and drop-down jacks for the corners, heavy-duty fenders, dual 7k axles trailer wt 2900. Price: $3175. ACK!! Put my name in anyway. . .maybe I can talk my friend into visiting his family again LOL :D

I can totally picture this scenario. . .trailers don't arrive at the dealer in KS until the day I am supposed to leave for GSW and I'm at work calling my friend to see if he can pick up the trailer he pulls into Boulder at midnight I get the trailer and Jeep loaded I finally get on the road by 3AM and get to the trailhead late for the first trail. YIKES - maybe I should see if Trailer Source has a PJ!! My oldest and I are heading over there now.

Cody
05-09-2008, 11:22 AM
have trailer prices really gone up that much in the last 5 years? I paid 1650 for mine and it was a PJ I believe.

Ted_Z
05-09-2008, 11:37 AM
Steel prices have skyrocketed. Trailer's main ingredient = steel.

Cody
05-09-2008, 11:59 AM
I guess that makes sense.

BigDaveZJ
05-09-2008, 12:15 PM
And for some reason they're abnormally high in the Denver area too. When I was looking for a trailer, I could find the same trailer outside the Denver area for ~$500 less than I could in Denver.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-09-2008, 01:12 PM
The PJ at Cochran in KS: $3175

The PJ at Trailer Source in Erie, CO: $3950 ($4100 taxes, etc OTD)

About an $800 difference

Do I buy the local one (close, easier to get warranty work done, "bird in hand" etc) or take my chances and see if I can find someone to pay to haul the one from KS to CO? I'm thinking of just getting the local one, I don't even know if Cochran will get it in time. They're estimating 10-14 days, but then I'd have to get it from there to here. I've got enough stress with the ZJ to then have to worry about the trailer!!

EDIT: This is the one at Trailer Source I put a hold on:

http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/TS18+2front.jpg

http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/TS18+2rear.jpg

Ted_Z
05-09-2008, 01:34 PM
Can you haggle on trailer prices like you would if you bought a new car?

nate
05-09-2008, 02:14 PM
All depends on the options too. You can pickup a run of the mill 16ft 7k trailer here for around $1800.

Mine is an 18ft "10k" trailer with brakes on both axles (6100lb axles). It's really a 12k, but since it's labelled as 10k, it's not considered a commercial trailer in any state.

It's got 1/4" plate fenders, spare tire with mount was included, HEAVY duty ramps (weigh almost 100lbs each), D rings on 4 corners. The trailer was powder coated as well vs paint... all that stuff adds on to the price.

I still debate if I should have got fold up ramps instead, would be MUCH easier, but then on the other hand something long like a pickup would prevent them from folding up.

Also I need to put a winch on it. Have been several times loaded a non running rig on the trailer has been a pain, where the winch would have made it cake.



have trailer prices really gone up that much in the last 5 years? I paid 1650 for mine and it was a PJ I believe.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-09-2008, 04:19 PM
Can you haggle on trailer prices like you would if you bought a new car?

Trust me, I'm tryin'!!




http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/TrailerPJ18+2.jpg
83"x18'+2' dual 7k PJ (stand-up ramps and no drop jacks)

Just spoke with the owner over at Jayhawk, said he'll sell for $3500. I put it on hold until Monday - I'm 98% sure I'll go with this one because of the price point. I really don't want the stand-up ramps, but they'll be coming off once I buggy the ZJ anyway! :D

No spare though, so I should factor in another $150. . .

Also, Jayhawk will only do cash. Trailer Source will finance. . .it's gonna be close!

chadjans
05-10-2008, 12:32 AM
Hinged ramps make trailering a rig to the trail a little more bearable. Trust me.

nate
05-10-2008, 01:17 AM
I agree, the only thing is when you have something that is too long (like a truck) and you have to figure out how to hold the ramps up.

cLAYH
05-10-2008, 11:58 AM
If you ONLY plan to haul a ZJ you should be able to save a few bucks by buying a 7k trailer(dual 3500# axles).



The prices you guys have been throwing around are UNBELIAVALBE! For a basic 20ft 10K trailer you'll pay MINIMUM $5000 up here in Alberta. I've been looking for something like that for my company for awhile but have been put off by the prices. You guys have got me thinking that I should drive down there and buy one!

I'll be in Wyoming this June, not far from Salt Lake City. Anyone know any trailer dealers around Salt Lake that are familiar with the procedure for bringing trailers into Canada? From what I have read all I need is from them to fax a copy of the bill of sail to the border office 48hours before I get there.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-10-2008, 02:28 PM
Time to butcher some terminology, bear with me:

So with regards to the coupler - the PJ I'm looking at is "made by Bulldog, but doesn't have the sleeve." So sounds like a standard coupler. Any thoughts? I can upgrade to a Bulldog with a sleeve for about $100 installed.

With regards to the hitch: can I get away with a Class III? I ran this by the dealer, and he recommended a Class V (of course) - he'll do the upgrade on my truck for $350 incl install plus $80-$100 ball mount. I'm pretty sure I have a Class III hitch (will look under it this evening for a sticker when I get off of work). It would be great if mine has a weight distribution hitch, which I've read could bump it up from standard Class III (6k) to as high as 10k. Max gross trailer wt / GTW is 14k for the trailer but I won't be hauling more than trailer/3k + ZJ/5k = 8k. I'd really rather not spend the extra money if I don't have to, but SAFETY FIRST. Also, how is the law enforced on this? In other words, if I have a 14k GVR trailer, do they expect me to have a Class V hitch even if I'm only trailering 8k and well within my limits if I have a Class III rated at more than what I'm towing?

One other thing: I had one of the places I was at talked about "de-rating" the trailer. If I don't carry anything more than the ZJ, I don't think I'll need to have the dealer call the manufacturer to do this - even if I go by GVWR for both truck and trailer (I think just under 9k for my 2002 F250 CC + 14k trailer) I'm well under the magical 26+k I've heard DOT uses as a cutoff.

Mtn WJ
05-10-2008, 03:39 PM
It seems to me you will be ok with that GVWR. You have more than 2k in buffer there.

If I ever ventured to own a tow rig and trailer I would definately factor in a pop up pick up camper in the mix. Not sure if that changes your thoughts on weights or not or if it is a thought for you. However with a smaller family like yours you could do very well with a used pop up on long camping type trips with your ZJ in tow. My family of 5 puts the pick up type campers out of practicality.

Otherwise reading all that is involved with a tow rig and trailer I am more convinced than ever to stick with my plan of keeping my WJ as streetable as practical and off roadable as I dare. I am hoping I still like my plan after this summer of towing a pop up with my WJ. Well see I guess.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-10-2008, 04:43 PM
Otherwise reading all that is involved with a tow rig and trailer I am more convinced than ever to stick with my plan of keeping my WJ as streetable as practical and off roadable as I dare.

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Keith!! :D

Couple more quick questions (I know I'm approaching my limit): looking at these trailers, it seems the axles are fairly rearward. I've heard 60/40 on weight distribution (over axles / in front) - anyone got any pics of how their rigs are sitting on a trailer in relation to the axles? I'm picturing the rear ZJ tire behind the rear trailer axle - is it that fine a line between too much and not enough tongue weight?

BigDaveZJ
05-10-2008, 05:00 PM
The centerline of my rear tires are usually just behind the rear-most portion of the fender. Enough tongue weight to push the back of the truck down just a touch. But when I had Will's WK on the trailer it was back a bit further to get my desired tongue weight.

K2
05-10-2008, 05:04 PM
Thanks for the vote of confidence, Keith!! :D

Couple more quick questions (I know I'm approaching my limit): looking at these trailers, it seems the axles are fairly rearward. I've heard 60/40 on weight distribution (over axles / in front) - anyone got any pics of how their rigs are sitting on a trailer in relation to the axles? I'm picturing the rear ZJ tire behind the rear trailer axle - is it that fine a line between too much and not enough tongue weight?

I cant say a "fine line" but distribution is important. Too much tongue weight and the front of the truck is lifted a bit and doesn't steer correct. Too little and the rear of the truck flops around steering from the rear. It is not that drastic, but you can notice it while driving. Does that make sense?

chadjans
05-11-2008, 12:08 AM
You have three options to your hitch dilema. Stay with the Class 3 like most. Use a weight distribution setup with the class 3 or upgrade to a class 4 or 5 and tow without a weight distribution.

Because you are going with a heavier class trailer I would go with a class 5 hitch. You can pick one up for 150 bucks and put it on yourself. Usually 6 to 8 bolts.

Don't derate your trailer.

Cody
05-11-2008, 02:47 AM
Wasatch Trailer in SLC is where I bought mine.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-12-2008, 03:47 PM
OK, started the paperwork on the 14k GVW PJ at Trailer Source this AM, will pick it up (along with a class 5 hitch, mine's only rated 5000 GTW 500 TW unless wt distribution then 12500 GTW and 1250 TW - wt distribution setups I looked at cost more than just getting the class 5) Wednesday (unless a guy from Bennett calls me back with a better deal):

http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/TS18+2front.jpg

http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/TS18+2rear.jpg

Cody
05-12-2008, 07:07 PM
http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?p=513715#post513715

SCAMPER ZJ
05-12-2008, 07:58 PM
http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?p=513715#post513715

Don't try to make me feel bad, Cody! Besides, I wanted a new one.http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/images/icons/icon12.gif

Are you going to GSW this year? I remember you giving me a hard time for not having a synthetic winch line a couple years ago. Got one from MasterPull its way. . .

EDIT: Oops! Forgot you're one of the planners for GSW - just saw one of your posts over on the GSW Checklist (http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15182) thread. See ya there.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-17-2008, 01:08 AM
Finally got the ZJ up on the trailer tonight, got it strapped down and drove it around some at highway speeds. It went remarkably well! Had a few instances of mild bucking (trailer would tug then nudge a little) so I'll try a little more tongue weight and see if that helps.

http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/P1010040small.jpg

http://www.jeepsite.net/F250/P1010046small.jpg

BigDaveZJ
05-17-2008, 01:09 AM
Sure, just post the 2nd pic on CPSC, LOL

Looking at the first pic your tongue weight does look a little light.

nate
05-17-2008, 11:26 AM
Nice trailer! If you ever have to tow your Ford, you'll be able to on that trailer for sure.


What I did when I first bought my trailer is I brought the truck, trailer and Jeep out to the scales on base and messed with it for a bit. The readout is just in a window so I could check the weights real easy.

You want 10-15% of the trailers weight on the tongue. For me, that was between about 750lb and 1100lb since my trailer and Jeep weighs around 7500lbs.

I got it set to around 900lbs and I screwed down a 2x4 on the deck. Now whenever I load the Jeep, I pull up to the 2x4 and I know I'm good to go.

I have had to load heavy on the tongue before though. Hauled a crew cab Duramax and it was darn near lifting the back of my truck when we loaded it backward and it was about the length of my trailer deck, so there was not much room to move it around.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-18-2008, 01:46 AM
Thanks Nate! Good idea on the 2x4 as well. Once I figure out where the "sweet spot" is, I'm thinking I'll do that.

Hopefully this next week I'll get the wood treated. I'll be sure to get the underside too like Chad suggested.

Yeah Dave, I pulled it forward a bit more this afternoon and took it for a drive (highway, side streets, curving parkways) and it seemed to handle a bit better. Tried to swerve (when nobody was around) and make it fishtail too, and it pulled right in behind me.

Timed myself unloading it tonight - I'm going to have to practice a bit more. At least I'm confident enough to load/unload by myself now. . .the first time I pulled the ZJ up the ramps a couple days ago, I was nervous WITH a spot! Now I know exactly where to put the ramps without having to line up the Jeep and how much room I have between the fenders, etc.

I cut the straps so I don't have so much excess, and fiddled around with how I'm doing the tie-down some. I'll have the bugs worked out by the time I head to Moab, right? :D

wheelnzj
05-18-2008, 04:52 PM
Stan- Looks Good, nice trailer. Looking forward to seeing ya in Moab! What was the total cost? I have been looking myself.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-18-2008, 11:36 PM
Stan- Looks Good, nice trailer. Looking forward to seeing ya in Moab! What was the total cost? I have been looking myself.

Hey Ron! Cost of the trailer was $3950, I think out-the-door was closer to $4700 by the time I bought locks, class 5 hitch receiver, drop hitch/ball, taxes, etc. Did you need info on the truck, too? That was a little over $20k before taxes and dealer handling. If you're looking at those as well check out this thread: 1999-2002 Powerstroke opinions (http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15731).

Which trails you wheeling this year? I haven't done Hell's Revenge or Cliffhanger, so I'm hoping to do those.

wheelnzj
05-19-2008, 02:44 AM
Stan-Thats alot of coin! Go big or stay home, besides its only money and you can always make more. Just let the ink dry.
I have been looking at trailers myself. Last year I bought one two days before leaving for GSW. Went to load up the ZJ and the trailer was not wide enough. The guy I bought it from did not messure between the fenders correctly! (my bad for not double checking).
So, I drove the Jeep to Moab came home and got ride of the trailer and I just have not found another one yet. I really like yours but I am hoping to keep the cost down under 3K.
Thanks for the SuperDuty link but I already have a 2003 Ford SuperDuty 6.0L with all the goodies. Do the intake, exhaust and chip, you will like it. It makes a big difference.
I already have a class 5 hitch (that I use to tow my toy trailer).
Again your trailer sure looks nice, but I will only use mine a couple times a year and I really don't have a place to store it.
Thanks for the info.
Ron

SCAMPER ZJ
05-19-2008, 10:04 PM
I don't have a place to store it either, but there are a lot of places around here that will let you keep it on their secure lots for $25/month. There are lots of used trailers out there, and even newer ones with a little less axle capacity. I overdid it for a ZJ, but like others have pointed out, I can tow heavier items later on if I need (truck, bobcat, et al). Anyway, I'd love it if you'd assume payments when I go bankrupt! :D

You'll have to post some pics of your '03 SuperDuty. I'm getting the gauges, intake, and exhaust done this week, but will have to wait on doing either a chip or a programmer. Should have it in by GSW 2009 - I'm hearing from you and others it makes a big difference!

chadjans
05-20-2008, 12:13 AM
Stan:

Put your straps to the axles not the jeep. That is why you were experiencing the "buckling." The jeep is bouncing around and fighting your straps. Your four primary straps should be to the axle and some will strap the body also.

I highly recomend not straping the body unless you can take ALL the travel out of the suspension by getting the suspension on the bump stops. Then you are fighting the spring travel. Some will also strap the jeep using their winches. Again not recomended. The brake in your winch is not made for this.

What are your straps rated at? They appear to be the common utility straps found at home depot or wal-mart. Spend some coin for some GOOD quality straps. I have a few sets of these. Awesome price for execelnt quality: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-AUTO-HAULER-RACE-CAR-TRAILER-TIEDOWN-RATCHET-STRAP-B_W0QQitemZ310050508012QQihZ021QQcategoryZ107070QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

These are also nice in that the hood is not twisted (less chance for breakage), the axle strap is built in, the cordova wrap is built in and the length is perfect for a 18ft trailer.

Be safe.

nate
05-20-2008, 01:44 AM
What you can do is cut some 2x6s to stick under your rock rails and then crank the suspension down on them.

I tie 4 straps to the body and 2 to the axles. Haven't had any issues, really don't notice the trailer is back there other than the trucks stops better and rides smoother :)

SCAMPER ZJ
05-20-2008, 08:02 PM
I highly recomend not straping the body unless you can take ALL the travel out of the suspension by getting the suspension on the bump stops.

Yeah, this came up over at the Colorado Powerstroke Club forum (http://www.coloradopowerstrokeclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12328&page=2) too (a friend of mine warned me it could, he knew how I was planning to tie it down). I'll find a way to get the front and rear axles secured.


What are your straps rated at? They appear to be the common utility straps found at home depot or wal-mart. Spend some coin for some GOOD quality straps. I have a few sets of these. Awesome price for execelnt quality: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-AUTO-HAULER-RACE-CAR-TRAILER-TIEDOWN-RATCHET-STRAP-B_W0QQitemZ310050508012QQihZ021QQcategoryZ107070QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

They ARE from Home Depot, Chad - thought I was buying good ones! Rated at 10k (3200 lb working load I think). The whole reason I'm doing this is for safety, so you've got my attention. I hate bidding on eBay though - what do you think of these (http://www.truckntow.com/pc-10838-147170-2-ratchet-straps-w-chain-anchors.aspx)? The 3" seem like overkill. I'd like to get them ordered ASAP if you think they'd work.


What you can do is cut some 2x6s to stick under your rock rails and then crank the suspension down on them.

Funny you should mention that, Nate. I was trying to come up with a way to stop the suspension from compressing and was wondering if I could put some kind of brace in there somewhere. Might have to make another trip to Home Depot. . .

chadjans
05-21-2008, 12:42 AM
Sorry to hear you are so adverse to bidding on ebay. They have a 100 percent feedback rating. I beleive they are a buy it now priced. I have several sets myself and Halfdoc and a few others have bought a set based on recomendation.

Maybe contact them and see if they will sell you a set direct. I had all my sets within three days from order. These are different material than the cargo straps found at home crapo.

I wouldn't combine chain and strap.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-21-2008, 01:21 AM
Sorry to hear you are so adverse to bidding on ebay. They have a 100 percent feedback rating. I beleive they are a buy it now priced.

Don't get me wrong, I'll do "Buy it Now" items. I soured to the bidding process last year when I lost a bid on a cast saw. . .thought I was being clever and stayed late at work to put in a series of bids the last 5 minutes - of course someone else had some kind of automatic bidding set up (didn't realize you could do that). Grrr. I suppose if I wanted to I could get more sophisticated at it.

Anyway. . .I looked at the specifications: "6,000lb assembly breaking strength and are rated at 2,000lb working load limit" - I think mine are at 10,000 and 3,300, respectively.

That being said, I sure do like the flat snap hooks - and the UV resistance and nylon sleeve would no doubt prolong their usefulness. There is a blue set at a "Buy it Now" price of $50 and change (which is a lot less than I spent at Home Depot) - so what the heck, I'll order a set and keep the others for spares - thanks!

nate
05-21-2008, 01:28 AM
Most everyone here uses straps from the Farm store. They come on sale for $10 each. 10k rated and a nice long handle to get some leverage on the ratchet.

BigDaveZJ
05-21-2008, 09:48 AM
Stan, Murdoch's had some good ones last time I was in there. Think they've got a store up your way.

cLAYH
05-23-2008, 12:51 PM
X2 on NOT strapping to the body. You may not believe it but the bouncing that the suspension does will either cause your straps to break or pull thru the cam tightener. Happened to a local fellow up here but fortunately someone was following him and noticed the rig rolling forward and back on the trailer and got him to stop.

I've never really liked straps for tying down heavy loads unless its the cargo winch style like on the side of big trailers.

I use chain and boomers. Regular boomers on the front just to take up the excess chain and then the ratcheting style on the rear to get things really tight.

One of my wheeling buddies pulls onto his trailer, throws chains over the rear axle and then drives forward to tighten them. Then uses chains and ratcheting boomers on the front to hold it there. A bit quicker and simpler than boomers on all four corners.

Sometimes on a really long trip I'll use the winch to suck the front end down and take some bounce out of the suspension but generally I never notice it affect the trailer control or ride.

I recently took a cargo securment course and asked what most car haulers were using. The instructor said most are going to tire slings(like on a dolly). Less chance of damage to car and easier with a lot of todays low slung cars. Not really practicle on a 36" tire though.....

naturalbornmudder
05-24-2008, 11:00 AM
I tie 4 to the body and 2 to the axles.I have found that once you put some down pressure on the rig suspension, it takes out most of the sway and you are dealing with a lot more secure load. Chains and binders would be nice if I ran across some on the cheap, but some good heavy duty straps do just as well for me. This also depends on how and where you drive.

Sudz
05-24-2008, 11:28 AM
i run MAC’S tie down straps – excellent quality

got these: summit racing (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MTD%2D4%2DPS3%2D8K&N=700+4294816121+115&autoview=sku) - def worth the $$$

company website: Macs Ultra Pack (8 Foot) (http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/79/1)


watch this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btRWr3OO-hs - some promo stuff layered in but good tips on tie down techniques towards the end of the clip

btw, the bucking you are experiencing is your electric brake controller compensating for the shifting load on the trailer - common problem - you'll get it figured out ;)


-Sudz

nate
05-24-2008, 12:03 PM
You need to tie the body down on most of these ZJs. IF your rig is to the point of needing a trailer, I bet it's a lot like mine where it's pretty "slinky"

If I just tie to the axles, the body rolls around enough that it makes the trailer sway. The best way I can describe is it acts about the same if I were pulling a water tank on the trailer. It's not dangerous really, but on a long trip it's pretty annoying.

I tighten the straps to the body as much as I can. Yeah if I hit a big bump then go a little slack, but even still it helps out to make the Jeep and trailer "one".

OverkillZJ
05-24-2008, 12:07 PM
Short trips, I do axles only. Long trips, axles only, and 2 straps to the cage to keep the suspension compressed. I hate the bouncing!

SCAMPER ZJ
05-24-2008, 05:46 PM
Excellent feedback from everyone, I really appreciate it. Lots of great ideas/suggestions. I'm pretty much planning on running straps to the axles and then compressing the suspension since it's a longer trip (and not just straight flat highway from Denver to Moab). Hope to see you all there.

norcaljr
05-25-2008, 03:50 PM
another vote for the Macs Ultra Pack. They work great. I also strap the body down like Nate said.

chadjans
05-26-2008, 01:23 AM
another vote for the Macs Ultra Pack. They work great. I also strap the body down like Nate said.

Those macs straps have those twisted hooks. They brake easiely.

Sudz
05-26-2008, 02:20 AM
Those macs straps have those twisted hooks. They brake easiely.
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16199

OverkillZJ
05-26-2008, 09:38 AM
Those macs straps have those twisted hooks. They brake easiely.

They're fine for direct pull, but they will break if you use them to the hoops at the side of a trailer which put the pull at an agle. I broke two before I learned they can only be used for a direct pull, haven't broken one since then.

They're find if used as intended.

indy242003
05-26-2008, 03:45 PM
They're fine if used as intended.

Haha. Often overlooked by most all of us.

chadjans
05-27-2008, 01:18 AM
http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16199

Dude don't quote that crap to me. You have no idea of my basis of what I said.

SCAMPER ZJ
05-27-2008, 01:43 PM
Got the deck on the trailer water-sealed (just in time because it rained all day yesterday and it's overcast/drizzle today). Didn't have time to do the underside yet. I'll post a pic later. Still waiting on those straps from eBay, but they'll probably arrive before my ZJ is ready for Moab.

Cody
05-27-2008, 03:50 PM
ya dude, Chad has heard lots of people tell him how to do things. ;)

Like Dave, for short pulls I would only chain to the axles (chains and the lever style binders). For medium distance (2-4 hours) I would chain the axles and pull the front suspension down with a couple big ratchet straps I have. If I was towing long distances, then I pulled the rear down too.

It was less of an issue with I towed with the 3/4 ton dodge than the ZJ. When I tried towing with that ZJ I had without sucking down the suspension, I almost killed an entire highway full of people. With a full size truck it's not nearly as noticable, but it will still be much more controllable without the suspension flopping around.

Chad, I know you don't believe me but maybe try and do some evasive driving in a parking lot with the suspension compressed and not, and then decide for yourself which seems to feel beter. Once you actually experience it yourself, you might start 2nd guessing the oppinions of other people--regardless of the respect you may have for them.