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BlueGerbil
02-14-2008, 06:07 AM
Paris / New York – Transcontinental 2009

After driving the whole Panamericana in less than 16 days back in 2006 and setting a new world height record for vehicles (21.804 feet at the Ojos de Salado in Chile) in 2007 the german adventurer Matthias Jeschke reaches for another goal:

An international team of success-oriented extreme drivers will set out on a round-the-world tour over land exclusively by car for the first time ever, following the footsteps of early human migration. They will use bio fuel for combustion and only bio oil as the lubricant for engines, axles and transmissions.

The car of choice will again be the Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon.

Accompanied by a technological exhibition on the topic "Renewable Energies", the historic tour will lead them across Europe, Russia, Mongolia, Alaska, Canada and the USA, crossing 21 countries in total.

An extreme project for drivers – both historical and historic

The expedition team from Europe, Russia and America will start in Paris on 1 October 2008, and is estimated to reach New York by the end of April 2009. They will venture east through Russia up to the outermost edge of Eurasia. Then, around February 2009, the Bering Straight will be crossed on frozen ice, alternatively, by means of modified, floatable vehicles. This will then take them to Alaska and from there, after crossing Canada and the USA from West to East, they will reach the East Coast.

It is the goal of the expedition to drive around the world using only one single means of transport, and to promote the use of biological fuel and oil and at the same time achieve a CO2-neutral project balance.

Political Support

The project is backed by the German Foreign Office, the German embassies and the German Energy-Agency. In order to successfully communicate the project statements of this historic tour, there will be close co-operation with, for instance, all the countries involved and the foreign Chambers of Commerce both prior to and - in particular - during the expedition.

Without a trace and CO2-neutral

In order to make history without leaving any traces behind, the expedition “Paris / New York – Transcontinental 2009” will take place in winter and will be completely CO2-neutral.

Leaving the environment intact on this stretch of almost 40,000 kilometres will be achieved by taking the following actions:



Timing: In order not to leave any tire tracks, the tour will take place in winter. The vehicles will only cross meter deep snow and ice as well as deep-frozen soil, known as permafrost.


Low-emission bio fuel and exclusively bio oil based on readily biodegradable and renewable or sustainable energy sources will be used for motors, axles and transmissions.


The entire project will take place closely monitoring CO2. To be able to complete this project in a CO2-neutral way, after their round-the-world tour, the expedition team and their partners will plant an equivalent number of trees in close collaboration with the state authorities. This will ensure that the tour actually contributes to reducing CO2.


The expedition will only use state-of-the-art vehicles and equipment.

I will post photos and news of the whole tour, so stay tuned!

SuicideTireZJ
02-15-2008, 01:39 PM
That's pretty badass. They should run the whole thing on mattrax.

nierace
02-15-2008, 02:55 PM
Thats ill. I'd imagine this is probably something we'll see on the discovery channel as its documented?

Fullsizexj
02-15-2008, 04:21 PM
I can just see it now on the discovery channel, Capt Sig pulls along side on the Northerner, tosses out the hook and pulls the jeep up onto the rack, tilts it up and shakes out germans, of course his permit does not allow for germans so he tosses them back overboard, rebaits the jeep and dumps it back in

BlueGerbil
03-17-2008, 05:57 PM
The first of three Jeep Wrangler Unlimited has received it´s wheels, tires, axles and suspension. More to come...

All three JKs of the Paris / New York project will be shown to the public on the biggest offroad fair in Europe, held in Bad Kissingen in Germany from May, 22nd to 25th 2008.

http://www.liska.de/bilder/pny/teaser1-800.jpg

BlueGerbil
10-02-2008, 01:54 PM
The last prearrangements are in full swing: the expedition Jeeps are being loaded and prepared, there’s an atmosphere of departure at Extrem Events.

Tonight, the participants will leave for Paris where the “Paris / New York – Transcontinental 2009”-expedition begins.

For a long time the entire team of Extrem Events has continuously worked towards this moment. Thus all participants are full of expectation.
We would like to sincerely thank our partners and helpers again who make this expedition possible.

Also, new pictures of the modified, floatable vehicles as well as the special trailers can be found on our homepage www.pny2009.com (http://www.pny2009.com)

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/991433db3d1527cdca1f28c3c26f2f72.jpg

SirFuego
10-02-2008, 02:20 PM
http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/991433db3d1527cdca1f28c3c26f2f72.jpg
This is probably one of the best pics of a JK I will ever see. Something about that just says "Don't fuck with me!".

I'm definitely looking forward to the progress!

Mtn WJ
10-02-2008, 05:32 PM
Good Luck guys and please keep us posted.

canadian_driver
10-02-2008, 08:26 PM
thoes look like rockets, i know they're not but i wish they were

zjzach
10-02-2008, 08:35 PM
those are the actual floats their gonna use to cross the bering sea? those pics are going to be awesome. i can see it now with a fishing boat off in the background.

OverkillZJ
10-02-2008, 09:56 PM
Bad...Ass..

BlueGerbil
10-04-2008, 04:43 PM
03. Oktober 2008

Slowly creeping through the Paris traffic of the inner city, we are surmounting the roofs of the other cars – accompanied and thronged by the crossing scooters and motor bikes. Our cars are sticking out of the crowd, which is obvious due to curious to astonished looks of pedestrians and drivers as well as fast-paced taken pictures. There is no possibility to oversee our branded Jeeps with all the additional special equipment.

The dpa-publication (German press agency) from yesterday is still in use. Not only publications in print and internet reached our office, but also news in radio and television. Dpa-radio distributed the interview with Matthias Jeschke to 80 different radio stations and furthermore we received an invitation for a live show of RTL. The media response exceeded our expectations. Especially due to the dominant Motor Show Paris, our partners are thrilled about the amount of response.

In the afternoon we drove to the exhibition and placed the car in an exciting manoeuvre near the exhibition hall 1. We haven’t been displaced by the police, but interestingly been watched and congratulated. We felt honoured to have the vice president of Chrysler International, Mr. Thomas Hausch to welcome the team and to sign the three Jeep bonnets as first person. Afterwards all team members followed. Thomas Hausch emphasized again his confidence in our expedition and he is looking forward the reunion in New York.

Now it is obvious for everyone what happens here. We are ready – It begins! The historic expedition „Paris / New York - Transcontinental 2009“ has started. Happiness and is visible in the faces and motivation, not only to start to circle world, but also to reach the goal in Mai 2009 in New York.

BlueGerbil
10-05-2008, 10:06 AM
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BlueGerbil
10-06-2008, 05:41 PM
04. Oktober 2008

The day starts with a jam-packed breakfast hall. It is weekend and we are staying in a Disneyland hotel. Many families are once more using the weekend to visit the theme park and with around 150 people they are a huge part of this morning jam.

However, the next call made all breakfast stress disappear, because Matthias Jeschke gave the first live interview of the expedition with SWR 1, which gets on air in Germany only a few minutes delay. Over the following Link you can listen to this Interview in MP3: http://www.pny2009.com/cms/upload/Medien/Radio/2008_10_04_SWR1.MP3

We are going to refuel: Beside regular gasoline we are pumping a part of the cellulose ethanol in the tank what we brought along and mix it to an E30 mixture (30% Ethanol; 70% Gasoline).

The engines whir as usual and swallow the Ethanol of the second generation like they used anything else. No output loss, no changing behaviour. We are leaving Paris northwards in direction of Belgium. For some attendees this has been the first time at the steering wheel of our extremely modified Jeeps, what has given extra tension and motivation.
Even the partly existent language barriers could not cloud the great atmosphere. Far from it! We were talking with hands and feets and these kinds of talks provided a lot of fun with quite a few guffaws of laughter.
On our way to Antwerp, for the first time, we have been able to calculate realistic consumption data for the vehicles – withal the total height of almost 3 meters and a definite higher weight compared to the standard Jeep, the average consumption is only between 12.8 and 14 Litres / 100km.

We spend the evening at the home of Johann Nietvelt and his family, one of the record driver of the “Panamericana – 2006“project. Beside a delicious dinner we have been invited from our host to try a bit of the diversity of the Belgian beer selection. Luckily we are staying in Antwerp tomorrow and nobody has to drive.

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Mtn WJ
10-06-2008, 06:47 PM
Cool.

So when you guys get to New York I will be more than happy to take the helm of one of those Jeeps. That way you wont have to drive them all the way back home.

Thanks a lot for keeping us updated.

BlueGerbil
10-07-2008, 12:53 AM
Early this morning, we left from Antwerp to the photo shoot in Brussels where we - as a funny coincidence - met two young Englishman on their way to the North Cape.

For me, the gathering was like a closing circle in my life.

In 1989 I left for the North Cape. At that time in winter, I was driving all by myself with an old self built and restored VW Bus northwards and walked the last 12.5 Miles in a dangerous mission all alone through metres of high snow to the peak of Europe.

I must have had a guardian angel already at that time, because due to wrong informations regarding the distance length I lost my strengths on the way back. Despite all efforts a distant passing military vehicle was not able to notice me. Exhausted, I sank down and must have lied there in the snow for a while, because when I regained consciousness it was already late afternoon and it began to dawn.

At the place I woke up was a small water puddle, being build around a marking pole. I took some sips and walked with last strength and will back to my car. Half hanging out of the sliding door I fell asleep and were found by natives who helped me and gave me something warm to drink.
Today - after having done several extraordinary things and being on my probably biggest adventure ever - I met those two guys. They are at the same point in life as I did - at the beginning, carrying the same desideratum inside of them, being filled by zest of action and wish to experience something.

Since one of them - blond hair and beard - looked a kind of like me then, specific thoughts arose. A part of me adopts the role as a viewer and looked back at the younger me and the more experienced me now. It was a synchronous look at the beginning and the present. It was bizarre and exceptionally at the same time.

After this "special" reunion, some of the photo shoots took place in pouring rain. Anyhow, we are in a good mood.

Matthias Jeschke

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BlueGerbil
10-09-2008, 03:49 PM
October 6, 2008
Travelling also means to face new situations and to adjust to them – that is exactly what the expedition demanded from us in a democratic way today! The press conference – which has been prepared excellently by the Representation of the State of Hesse – turned out differently than planned. A national strike in Belgium caused a failure to appear on the part of the representatives of the press and also shut Belgium completely down. It is impressing to notice all the things that were not operating any longer – beginning with a non-speaking radio host as well as buses and train lines. Due to the restricted space in the Hessian State House of Representatives, we presented the banner exhibition along with our three Jeeps in the automobile museum – the only open available space. Besides the visitors of the museum we were also happy to welcome a delegation of the Representation of the State of Hesse as well as representatives of Chrysler Belgium.
Our vehicles were also the center of attention in front of the museum. We particularly liked a Romanian tour group which would have joined us right away. It was a very pleasant, open-minded meeting. After reaching Rotterdam in the evening, we had to stop at a doctor’s office because Falk – our cameraman – has hurt himself on his foot. Right after the treatment we continued our way to the Goethe Institute where they were anticipating our arrival.
But before the greeting, the creators of our Jeeps had to take care of the parking of the expedition vehicles first. Due to a very narrow driveway – only slightly wider than the vehicles themselves – and a constantly closing electric gate this proved to be a time-consuming undertaking. In the evening, the sincere greeting by the employees of the Goethe Institute compensated for all the effort.

JohnBoulderCO
10-10-2008, 10:53 AM
Very cool! Keep the pics coming.

SirFuego
10-10-2008, 01:34 PM
Nice! Are you going to be taking I90 across mainland US? I live really close to I90, so it'd be cool to see y'all drive by if you do come through Buffalo...

Mtn WJ
10-10-2008, 06:29 PM
Definately keep us posted as you go. Who knows maybe some of us will be in a postion to see you guys rolling along.

OverkillZJ
10-10-2008, 06:32 PM
Awesome!

nierace
10-10-2008, 08:27 PM
Yeah very awesome !

I love that color blue on the JK...those are some bad ass JK's.

BlueGerbil
10-22-2008, 01:48 PM
October 14, 2008: Switzerland

After the farewell in Limburg we left southwards early in the morning. Our destination: Switzerland – more precisely our partner Alcosuisse in Delémont and IBS in Thun. The factory manager of Alcosuisse was able to 100% satisfy our curiosity about the bio ethanol-production with his explanations and a tour through the factory. We got to know how little chaffed wooden pieces get produced into bio ethanol, that we will carry in our tanks and use on the further trip.

Afterwards we headed towards Thun. At the company IBS, the expert Beat Wyss, adjusted the battery-control-system for our excess-battery-system in a impressive way. Thus our Jeeps' batteries will be loaded in an optimal way and we will have enough capacity to use 4 winches, floodlight, walkie-talkies, laptops and a lot more.

We went to refuel our vehicles at an especially from Alcosuisse supplied gas station around the corner. But not a regular tank, the entire additional tanks got filled up with the valuably bio ethanol out of wooden waste. The owner of the gas station had a whimsical smile on his face as he presented the invoice for 1,700 liters of bio ethanol. The biogenic fuel is clear like water, contains 85 % ethanol and does not stand in competition to any nutrition due to wooden waste as basic material. Bio ethanol of the 2nd generation is one of the crucial points of our idea to not only use renewable energies for spectacular record drives but also use the long range media presence to promote the possibilities, advantages and need to use those resources.

We barely moved as we noticed that the driver’s door got wet even though it was not raining. So we jumped out and tried to find the reason. We were able to find out that one of our roof mounted tanks was leaking. Immediately we welded the tank using the cold-welding-process. After we refuelled the tank, everything seemed to be alright. Special thanks to Beat Wyss from IBS at this point, whose garage we were allowed to use for this repair.

After such an exciting day we spent the whole night driving through France on the highways. Our next destination: the Catalan metropolis Barcelona.

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canadian_driver
10-22-2008, 03:20 PM
http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/0d6ff09906eb22e58ff320fdf2455dfc.jpg






looks like he's holding a light saber, lol

look good so far keep the updates coming

BlueGerbil
10-22-2008, 05:10 PM
October 15, 2008: Barcelona
The night time driving through France smoothly continued and we reached Barcelona in the evening. The Catalan capital city is covered with creations of Antoni Gaudi and rife with small alleys so that it even was an adventure for us to navigate our almost 3 meter high expedition-Jeeps. Finally a nice police patrol escorted us with active blue light through the city to our hotel.
Late in the evening Matthias Jeschke had two photo shoots and an interview with representatives of the Spanish motor press. We finished the day with a delicious typical Spanish dinner.

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BlueGerbil
11-02-2008, 08:04 AM
October 16, 2008: Madrid

At the crack of dawn and after a short night we started to head the 650 kilometers westwards on the highway to Madrid. For a section of 200 kilometers we were accompanied by a journalist of a 4x4-magazine. That way she got a very close insight about the team members as well as the expedition. We arrived late in Madrid and made our way to the booked hostel first, to unload the luggage. Unfortunately the hostel was located in an extreme district – affected by discotheques, bars, the drug scene and night life – the audience was wild. Even the hostel was rustic. A bleak room with six iron-beds spread an atmosphere almost like jail.

With our team at home having done a great job again, we were able to leave the vehicles on the property of the German Embassy even at this late night-time. There was definitely no safer place for the vehicles than the property of the German Embassy! Then we took the cab back to the hostel. The following day was all about our meeting at the German Embassy in Madrid. Everything was perfectly prepared and ideally organized. We experienced a very successful press conference under the direction of the German Ambassador as well as the attendance of further high-ranking representatives of the German Embassy, Chrysler Spain and Spanish top-journalists. After finishing two photo shootings – one of which was with Auto Bild – and a shot in Madrid, we prepared everything for the 1,600 kilometers long non-stop-drive to Italy.

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BlueGerbil
11-02-2008, 08:14 AM
October 17-18, 2008: Italy

Unfortunately our journey to Vidigulfo did not go as smoothly as the last 6,500 kilometers. In a narrow highway construction site our third Wrangler (F3) grazed a water-filled barrier, started lurching, reached an extremely inclined position, tore down about 40 meters of the barrier with thousands of liters of water and could only be prevented from toppling over by a very lucky pull on the steering-wheel. Slithering, the vehicle came to a stop diagonally to the driving direction. Nobody and no further vehicles have been involved in this accident. We notified the highway police immediately and they secured the scene of the accident. After a first ascertainment the police escorted our convoy to the next exit.

The contact with the police was very obliging and correct to an extremely high degree. Still at the highway service area we started with the necessary emergency repairs (which had to be continued later on in Milano) because F3 had quite some damages. After carrying out the emergency repairs we were able to continue on our way and arrived in Vidigulfo in the evening and after 33 hours. For the next day we had plans for driving tests at one of the biggest vehicle testing grounds of Italy. The operating company – Quattroruote – will open its off-road testing ground soon and we were – arranged by Chrysler Italy – invited as the guests of honour to pre-test the area.

In addition to four TV-teams and three photographer-teams, the highest-ranking representatives of Goodyear Italy – including the CEO – were also present. It was fun and it was a nice event. The supervision by Quattroruote was exemplary. It was also very nice to see the gradeability of our vehicles. 80% grade uphill forwards, 100% grade downhill forwards and 100% grade uphill backwards (including equipment) are amazing results for every off-roader. Now we continue towards Slovenia and Croatia.

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BlueGerbil
11-09-2008, 09:43 AM
October 27, 2008: From Milano to Zagreb

Already at Euro Camp Jeep 2008 we have noticed that our expedition-Jeeps cause quite a stir. It is not even out of the ordinary that camera phones are being pulled out. But what we experienced in Milano seemed to take on a whole different dimension: Our vehicle-convoy was parked beside the road, an Italian driver saw our Jeeps, stopped in the middle of the road, pulled out his camera phone and started taking pictures – in that moment it already crashed – all in all three cars drove into the vehicle of the photographer. Fortunately no damage to persons has occurred and there was only little damage done to the car’s bodies.

The following drive to Slovenia went by smoothly – the country itself was a very pleasant experience for me. This was my first travel to Slovenia and I have to admit that I was very surprised about the neat-looking villages and cities, the nice and hospitable people and the excellently developed streets. Travelling definitely broadens one’s horizon!

The members of the Planet Earth Organization – whose guests we were – were expecting us in the building of the EU in Ljubljana. The EU commission provided the necessary space and service. Along with a delegation of the German Embassy we held a professionally organized press conference which was visited by journalists and photographers. The exhibition which deals with the topic ‘renewable energies’ was set up – in agreement with the commission and Planet Earth – in the foyer and received positive feedback.

As exception we symbolically handed over a certificate for the planting of a tree to Planet Earth – quasi as official start of the PNY2009-CO2-neutralization.

After a radio-interview with "Radio Europa 93" we received a very informative guided tour through the city by an employee of Planet Earth – thank you very much.

Thereafter we continued towards Zagreb – once again the drive went by smoothly and thanks to the great organization and pre-information by the German Embassy as well as our office team, the border officials knew about our arrival and made sure that our extraordinary convoy was able to negotiate without a problem and despite our Russian team member (who had no visa!). Arriving late at night, we peacefully fell asleep in a humongous hotel with seemingly never-ending hallways. :-)

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BlueGerbil
11-09-2008, 10:15 AM
28.10.2008: Croatia

We would like to condole about the death of the German Ambassador in Croatia, his Excellency Mr. Hans Jochen Peters who recently passed away.
On the recommendation of the German Embassy, the University of Zagreb took over the supervision and organization of the PNY-presentation.

In Zagreb we were surprised about what young prospective engineers can accomplish even in the event business. Arriving there, we were already expected by many people at Croatia’s largest university. After parking our vehicles right in front of the entrance, the student association heartily welcomed us. A special crew- and press-room was arranged for the preparation of our presentation and the big lecture hall was prepared with a gigantic silver screen. The presentation took place in front of 100 invited guests as well as attending leading professors. Afterwards there was a roundtable-discussion with students and professors of the field Mechanical Engineering who were particularly interested in the emergency swimming system and its hydraulics. In return they explained us a self-developedrocket engine.

After re-energizing by eating lunch in the cafeteria and enjoying a chill-out zone which was set up for this purpose only, we headed out to Zagreb’s most beautiful places for the photo and video shoots. Late in the afternoon we set out in the direction of Hungary.

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BlueGerbil
11-22-2008, 11:09 AM
October 29, 2008: Budapest

“Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you get”. We planned a seven-hour drive for today’s 400 kilometers. Due to the excellently developed highway towards Budapest we reached our goal already after half of the estimated time.

The booked hotel was right in the middle of a red-light-district and furthermore the parking possibilities haven’t been suitable. Therefore we started looking for an alternative, followed by a three-hour long odyssey through the city. All hotels were either sold out or did not have any secured parking space for our 3 Jeeps. It was already 2 a.m. when we finally found a convenient hotel.

The night was accordingly short and the following day featured a full agenda: An excellently well-organized press conference in the German Embassy, film and photo shootings in the historic district “Burgviertel” (in English “Castle district”) as well as meetings with journalists let the time fly by. Late in the afternoon we already continued towards Slovakia.

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BlueGerbil
11-22-2008, 11:39 AM
November 05-08, 2008: Berlin

The expedition quintet moved into a small but lovely summer residence at the Spandauer area in Berlin. Since we arrived late there was only one last task, to arrange a “wake up call” from the colleagues in Limburg and to go to bed for a good night’s sleep.

But there were six other Extreme Event employees who did not get any sleep tonight, because they were on their way to Berlin with the Roka-trailers, the emergency float system for the Bering Strait together with additional materials. At 6 a.m. sharp the team got the ordered wake-up-call and got out of bed. This day the Meilenwerk in the heart of Berlin was supposed to welcome the project within its classy ambience. The – in former times – biggest tramline depot has today – as forum for driving culture – more than 450,000 people per year. Our partner Chrysler booked the atrium for us where a real expedition feeling was generated with requisites of the Babelsberger Filmstudios, a bottom plate and objects of our project. A field kitchen offered goulash for everybody.

This afternoon we were accompanied by Dr. Lührs, who especially came from Rügen with his Jeep Grand Cherokee to the “Pariser Platz”, to take photos and film shoots with us. But: We should come back. Just this evening the German Press Agency called to invite us to make some film shoots at the “Brandenburger Tor” which was broadly distributed and published by e.g. the German magazine “Stern”.

The second home of the team became the Chrysler garage in the “Seeburger Straße” where our vehicles got a last check. Cooling fluid for the coldness in Siberia was filled in and break pads exchanged. The most tricky work was it though to optimise the undercarriage. Since it turned out on our way through Europe the shock absorber and spring system - which got mounted instead of the original - were not sufficient. The too weak spring system caused a strong bouncing, even without loading. Already in Bratislava we were, together with Chrysler, looking for a solution while our Team in Limburg organised all the necessary materials. The Rubicon Express undercarriage is now additionally supported by six “Eibach-Springs“ per vehicle to stabilise the vehicle when it is loaded. The worklight in the garage was visible till late at night and the technicians were working till the last drop of sweat dropped – finally it was done. Friday evening, the vehicles were back on the street, together with their trailers.

On Saturday noon we headed from Berlim via Frankfurt/Oder towards Poland, where we once more refuelled bio-ethanol from our partner Alcosuisse. The approximately 2,652 litres were delivered just a few days ago to the company “die Werkstatt” where they unloaded the 16 barrels with manual work. Great thanks for the enthusiasm and helpfulness to the men from “die Werkstatt”. Also waiting for the expedition at “die Werkstatt“: 160 litres of ISO HEET, an additive for the bio-ethanol which extracts water from the bio-ethanol and therefore lowers the freezing point. Fully loaded and full of pioneering spirit we turn towards east and the next station in Warsaw.

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BlueGerbil
11-22-2008, 11:49 AM
November 08-10, 2008: From Berlin to the border of Belarus

On Saturday we totally rearranged the loading of F1 and F2 at our accommodation in Berlin. Berthold Wolf, our partner, whose rooftop boxes were at good services for us while loading the material, was also present. What would Matthias do with all of the equipment if he did not have the roof boxes?! In the end, Berthold also attached a spare-windshield on top of the roof box of the F2 – we will still be able to use the Pacwolf-boxes without restrictions. Awesome!

Our first and at the same time our most important stop on the way to Poland was Frankfurt/Oder. There, we received 3,000 liters of bio-ethanol. The refuelling of the tanks worked out smoothly. This was definitely our last bio-refuelling stop before we reach Alaska! Within three hours all available tanks in the Jeeps and trailers were filled up by using our own hoses and pump. Peter Renè, our camera man, was forced to take an unintentional bio-ethanol shower. He would have had a hard time to explain himself if he had gotten into an alcohol check afterwards – his jacket smelled like alcohol as if he had already celebrated an extensive vodka-party in the early afternoon.

Around midnight we headed on our way towards Warsaw. During a spontaneous break, F1 and F2, along with its sleeping crew, were standing peacefully next to each other in a parking lot of a polish supermarket for two hours – a much needed time-out for everyone. According to plan and after a smooth drive, we reached Warsaw early Monday morning.

First of all: Thanks to the fantastic preparations by the German Embassy in co-operation with Hoch-Tief, our stay in Warsaw turned out to be a thoroughly successful experience! Early, but with a prosperous start: Matthias had an appointment with the Polish breakfast TV, at the Rondo Onz – the building in which the press conference, banner exhibition and the presentation of our vehicles was supposed to happen – that was a perfect fit. It was the best location, great atmosphere and high focus on the project. During the press conference, outside, our vehicles drew the attention of the pedestrians. After our contacts in Warsaw signed the cars, we had made plans for photo- and film-shoots in the city. The once completely destroyed but true-to-original rebuilt, wonderful old town is world cultural heritage for a reason. After visiting the castle courtyard and the old town market, the final view from the cultural center above the city was a highlight. We would like to specifically thank the German Embassy and Hoch-Tief for this exceptionally well prepared day.

On the way to Minsk there was another challenge waiting for us: There should be a trucker-story for the expedition-book at the border to Belarus. “The long wait” is the working title for this chapter. Unfortunately this actually became our motto for the next 24 hours. First, a Polish border official refused to let us continue our journey to Belarus, with the reasoning that our vehicles and its trailers were too big. The second try to pass the border crossing – which was prepared by our team in Limburg – was just as difficult. Suddenly we were told by the Polish border officials that Belarus definitely will not allow us to enter. Pressure and stubbornness of the Polish border officials caused us to find an alternative possibility to cross the border. Thus we decided to try the border crossing for trucks. With this, our Tour de Force just started. With lots of patience and after negotiating for three hours, Matthias succeeded in ensuring our way out of Poland. Despite that the German Embassy and our team in Limburg clarified all formalities beforehand, the A.T.A. Carnets – forms that are supposed to make the customs clearance of our equipment easier and faster – again and again became our crux. The processing of these bulky forms required a lot of time. In this case they were the reason for almost 17 hours of nerve-wracking waiting and back-breaking discussions. Finally, the German Embassy set the process in motion: If it were not standing up for us against the highest level of the Belorussian government agencies, the special authorization for the expedition would have taken even longer. With the best intentions and well-prepared, we reached the Belorussian border – afterwards we drove to Minsk, tired and one day later than planned.

BlueGerbil
11-22-2008, 12:02 PM
November 11-13, 2008: Minsk - Belarus/Russian border - Moscow

Border crossing asleep

We had a welcoming start on Tuesday: still feeling the long-lasting border crossing Poland/Belarus, we were all happy to stay the night in Minsk directly in the hotel of the IBB where the press conference took place as well. The employees of the German Embassy and the IBB-Team prepared and oversaw the press conference which proceeded with a simultaneous translator in a well stocked conference hall. The interest of the Belarus media and others was huge and the news propagation was accordingly fast: Already on our way to the Russian border we met a gas station attendant who has just seen a report about us on TV and she was very happy to have us as customers on her gas station.

After the press conference, Matthias had a discussion about renewable energies with the deputy minister for the environment and his employees. The Department of the Environment spontaneously invited other press representatives to our visit at the National Library. At this event Matthias was able to exchange experiences with another expedition leader: Vladimir Drabo, an expedition-commander from Minsk, who already tried to cross the Bering Strait for four times. He hurried to the National Library to meet Matthias and Evgeny in person, gave our two drivers each a book about his expedition and spontaneously invited Matthias to accomplish an expedition with him – to cross the South Pole. Was this meeting of the two expedition leaders the beginning of a new big project?

In the afternoon, we had an individual guided tour at the National Library of Belarus, which is a monument of symbolism: The fascinating diamond shaped building is a symbol for the extreme value of knowledge. At the very end of the visitation we found ourself again at the highest point in Belarus, the 74 meters high roof-deck of the impressive library. Enthused by the successful devolution of the day, the interesting conversations and contacts and the wonderful visitation program, we continued our way in the evening towards the Belarus border that we reached at midnight.

After a short sleeping break we learned, that the Carnets ATA can not be executed till the next morning at 9.00 a.m., so we kept sleeping but forgot to put our watches one hour forward to match them with the Russian time change. We eventually woke up thanks to the knocking of a customs officer at the pane of F1. He took our customs forms to work on them - “sometimes customs clearance runs asleep” is what we thought at that time, being surprised in a positive way. Shortly after that, we got escorted to the main customs office in Smolensk which was about 80 kilometres away. We got the instruction to stop our vehicles in a fenced plot in the courtyard, to lock the Jeeps and to leave this area of the customs property promptly. Behind our backs, the door of the big wire fence snapped in. The vehicles have been secured by Russian customs. Now, at the latest, we knew that this border business would not be an easy matter as well.

Matthias’ first negotiation result was not really enjoyable: They denied us to enter the country. With intensive support from the German embassy, intervention on highest level and complaisant customs officers, we were able to turn our bad starting position into a border crossing. Even the waiting time for the team and Matthias’ exhausting negotiations made the last two border crossings a stressful matter. At a glimpse: 80 hours, two borders, 30 hours of waiting time. Luckily the expedition’s time schedule has enough planned time buffer for occasions like this!

Matt
11-22-2008, 12:48 PM
This guy needs to lay off the speed and get some sleep. :D
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Oh, and what's the 2nd snorkel on the Goodyear Jeep go to?

BlueGerbil
11-25-2008, 06:35 AM
November 14-17, 2008: Moscow to Kazan

Unsuspicious driving

“We should not drive a fourth round if we do not want to seem suspicious“, is how we reproved ourself by the third turn around the Kremlin and the Basilica in the center of Moscow. So we exercised ourselves in unsuspicious driving and were enjoying Moscow’s highlights in the sun during our photo shoot. Even the long limousines which were cruising around the Basilica with a –for us Western Europeans – remarkably high density of wedding couples, have not been able to distract the pedestrians from our expedition vehicles and trailers.

The employees of the Department of Trade and Industry, the German Embassy and high ranking representatives of our partners Jeep and Goodyear prepared a really nice residence and a well attended press conference for us. The presentation of the expedition was especially interesting for all automobile journalists and offered a broad variety of information about the importance of the Jeep Rubicon in Russia and plenty other up-to-date news – first publications have already been online on divers Russian homepages. The two nights in the apartments of the embassy area were a special honour for us – a worldwide unique accommodation to stay overnight. I would like to thank all parties again for the great support and helpfulness in Moscow. Thanks.

Apart from that, the two days in the capital city of Russia have been dominated by changes within the team and current weather reports. Lena, our photographer of the first six expedition weeks has been replaced by Joachim Stretz the new photographer on board. Furthermore, Nastja Zilich and Juergen Graf headed home from Moscow on Saturday. Nastja supported the expedition with translations on the track between Warsaw and Moscow especially during the border crossings. Juergen was there to organize the press conference together with Chrysler and additional clarified some administrative stuff. Evgeny used the time off to visit his mom on her ninetieth birthday and to have a good night’s sleep. He came back yesterday - totally rested and fully motivated. Additional we will be accompanied by an intern of the German Embassy till we reach Novosibirsk. He speaks Russian and supports us with the numerous police controls on our way.

A continuous topic was the weather: While we have been told in almost every conversation we had in Moscow that the weather is way to warm for this season and that it is actually supposed to be all white and wintery cold by now, the first snow reports from the Altai Mountains arrived. There was so much snow fall on the Altai Mountains as it has not been for several years. This information – as well as all border and customs experiences - has already direct effect on our further planning: Matthias currently attempts to reschedule the appointment with our guide and to prepare the border crossings. Our goal is a time schedule keeping all general conditions in mind and which is even possible to stick to if we had extreme dense snow fall.

After we stored the luggage of all the old and new team members and the entire equipment, we started from Moscow towards Yekaterinburg on Sunday night. On the way to our first stopover, the ancient city Kazan, we were driving along Europe’s longest river, named Volga, with a length of approximately 3,700 km. The hilly Volga-Delta offered us the following special conclusion: The two trailers are brilliant! With floats and their attachments, respectively 1000 litres of bio ethanol in the tanks and further tightened materials like e.g. spare tires, each trailer weighs 4,5 tons. It is unbelievable how smoothly these trailers are running behind us by the conditions of the streets, which challenged us with extreme bumps, lane grooves, sudden droppings and unsecured roadsides as well as all kinds of roughness and unevenness. Our way from Kazan goes all the way over Perm to Yekaterinburg – I guess the streets will not get better.

November 17-19, 2008: Kazan – Ural

First continental border crossing

Unlike planned, we did not take the route via Perm but instead via the city Ufa to Yekaterinburg. We had to cross 1,200 kilometres in order to arrive in Yekaterinburg on time for the presentation of our project on Thursday morning. The aim was to drive the 1,200 kilometres in one go. Another look at the map and discussions with the journalists that Chrysler Russia had sent to accompany us in a Jeep Commander, made us change our plans for the route. The reason: The streets were supposed to be better than those that we would have taken on the route via Perm.

En-route there was a real highlight of Russia waiting for us: The crossing of the Ural Mountains. Although there were only the southern foothills of these up to 3,000 meters high mountains on our route, they were enough to make us crawling up the hills in second gear like snails. Luckily, the streets were still free of snow and ice and we managed most parts of the Ural Mountains during the night! The usual daily appearance of trucks combined with poor weather conditions, probably would have meant for us to cover the entire 800 kilometres distance of the mountains in first gear, surrounded by clouds of exhaust fumes. Thus, we were at least able to drive faster at the downhill track. In the morning we were rewarded for the slow night drive by a wonderful sunrise behind the mountains. The mountain scenery and the auburn, autumnal tundra offered our photographers good opportunities to take impressive pictures of the landscape.

Let me mention a few words regarding the better streets on the way from Kazan to Yekaterinburg: Luckily we do not know how the worse streets would have been. The street on which we were driving was littered with lane grooves, bumps and partly extreme pot holes. Especially nearby the bridges in the valleys we got shaken due to the roughness and unevenness of the streets. It was even more wondrous that one of us was always able to sleep along the way. Once we hit a giant pot hole with F1, but fortunately without any consequences for the vehicle. As we pulled over to check the situation we saw a Russian standing on the roadside, changing the left rear tire of his vehicle. Obviously he must have driven through this pot hole right before we did.

Actually, the highlight of the expedition is the continental border crossing at the Bering Strait. Currently we already practiced the continental bond right away: In the early morning we crossed the border between Europe and Asia – without ice, without water, without the mounted floats though but safe and riskless over a normal mountain road. A high stony monument with two direction signs “Europe” and “Asia” marked the line where the borderline goes.

After a quick coffee at a gas station during the refuel-action, we decided to keep on driving for a while and to eat breakfast a little bit later. At ten o’clock and after numerous photo shoots we had a good rest. The four drivers – Matthias and Astrid with the F1, and Evgeny and Jockel with the F2 – switched driving and sleeping through the whole night, so that everybody was looking forward to this breakfast. Unfortunately we forgot the time change in our plans. The expedition time plan and my cell phone with an automatic time zone localisation left no doubt: The morning was over - it was already noon. We quickly changed our breakfast plans towards a great lunch with shashlik, salad and borszcz.

We made it to Yekaterinburg, where we will present our expedition at the technical university on Thursday. On Friday morning, we continue our journey to Tyumen. The Jeep Commander and two journalists from Chrysler are accompanying us. Furthermore a new journalist took a place in the F1 at the invitation of our partner Goodyear.


In Moskow

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To Kazan

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From Kazan to Yekaterinburg

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Yekaterinburg

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BlueGerbil
11-25-2008, 06:50 AM
November 20-22, 2008: Yekaterinburg - Tyumen

Two cities – two successful days

Shortly after our overnight arrival in Yekaterinburg, the first light snow fall started: The next morning when we looked out of the windows, a thin snow layer covered our vehicles. Unfortunately the temperature was not low enough to save the tender skin of snow. Bummer! Within few minutes, Yekaterinburg was covered with a thick brown layer of mud instead. Shortly after that - the few kilometers from the hotel to the Technical University were far enough – F1 and F2 were covered with a thick film of mud. The vehicles looked like they had just returned from their toughest off-road experience.

In Yekaterinburg, the consulate general and the Technical University invited us to present the project. The president of the university welcomed us personally and informed us about the university and its 43,000 students. Next to students and press representatives, numerous TV teams with cameras were attending the presentation which was prepared by the consulate in an excellent way. The success of this presentation was noticeable: We have been the attraction of the 8pm newscast on the second Russian channel. Besides images of the Jeeps and trailers, they showed interviews of Matthias and Evgeny as well. Now we are well-known In Russia.

We covered the 350 kilometers from Yekaterinburg to Tyumen in a relaxing day trip. At the city border we were directly escorted to the biggest Chrysler center in Eurasia. Due to the fact that our vehicles have already been too high for the garage entrance in Yekaterinburg, we should now check our vehicles here in Yekaterinburg. Within seconds everybody’s nerves were frayed. Matthias has not even had time to greet the attending Chrysler representatives. Then a security guard in uniform came running by and heatedly told us to take our trailers and leave. Meanwhile our Russian drivers were already talking to the mechanics and they started working. Evgeny performed a maneuver that made the trailers lurching and towed the Jeep – with a journalist sitting on the engine bonnet – into the workshop. At the same time two Chrysler colleagues began to clean our totally dirty vehicles and we had to unload our luggage for the night. It got hectic and Matthias got loud.

To arrive at this garage showed us once more what it means to be on an expedition: Even though everything is planned and prepared in detail we all have to expect unforeseeable situations that call for ultimate concentration and cooperation. It is more than possible that in situations like that the stress and hectic discharge themselves in loudness. But no storm without the subsequent quietness: The meeting at the Chrysler center with the local press representatives took place in a special friendly atmosphere. The journalists were really interested and the three representatives of automobile magazines, who are attending the expedition at the moment, integrated themselves very well. For the first time Matthias was not the only one who explained the story of the expedition. The three attending Russian press representatives were dynamically supporting him with translations and representation of the expedition.

We left Tyumen early Sunday morning. Our way lead us 650 kilometres towards east – thereby the sun was shining towards Omsk and lead us the way to the next milestone. We gladly followed this bright light.

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Mtn WJ
11-25-2008, 11:12 AM
Thanks for posting the latest updates. Looks like the team is having a great time. So glad to see this being done in a Jeep based rig.

dangerousdave
11-25-2008, 11:28 AM
this is cool. Im glad to see its going well. be sure to get pictures of the jeeps on the pylons when you sure them.

Spr-T-23
11-25-2008, 03:14 PM
a trans america in a couple of zjs with your buddies would be blast

BlueGerbil
11-27-2008, 03:50 PM
November 24, 2008: Omsk

The sun of Omsk

We were not mistaken when leaving Tyumen: The sun that came shining from Omsk was a good sign. Right in the morning Joachim and the Russian journalists made several stops to take photos. It was not only that the light of the rising sun was illuminating the landscape in an extremely scenic way, but we were also able to drive offroad for the first time. A full closure of the main road made this trip possible and necessary.

Matthias and Evgeny first performed a spectacular transposition manoeuvre with both the vehicles and the trailers on this narrow part of the street and then drove on an earth road through little villages, forest and the brown tundra. We started early in the morning, but due to the beautiful but time-consuming detour we had the suspicion that we would be driving until late at night. According to the wish of our fellow journalists we stopped at a guesthouse for lunch break. This break let our suspicion become certainty. With new power, good humour and with the sun shining bright, we jumped back into the vehicles and created a little wonder. The kilometres to Omsk were melting away. And despite the bad condition of the roads – which were especially bad during the first half of the section – for the first time we managed to arrive in Omsk way faster than the designated time. Drivers, mood and landscape were great so that these 650 kilometres turned out to be one of the most beautiful sections to date.

Thanks to the commitment, spontaneity and the cooperativeness of the vice consul, everything was prepared in Omsk despite our unexpected early arrival. At the city limit we were heartily welcomed and escorted to the hotel. They even thought about our parking situation. Without further negotiations we were able to park the vehicles on a locked and attended parking lot right at the hotel. That was something which we have not yet experienced too often on our way! Less than two hours after crossing the city limit, the team met up for a late but well-earned dinner.

The press conference at Chrysler Omsk was scheduled for 5 p.m. – therefore everybody was able to use the Monday according to their own desire: Astrid and Jockel send pictures and reports home via e-mail, Matthias used the day to get some office work done and Evgeny had a good night’s rest. Some of us accepted the offer by the vice consul for a guided tour through Omsk. The trip to the city was worth it! Omsk is beautiful. In some parts of the city the influences by architects from Petersburg are clearly visible. The cityscape of this 1.2-million-inhabitants-metropole is accordingly scenic. We learned a lot about the “white capital of Siberia” and its history. Highlight of our trip was the visitation of Omsk’s church. Besides the Basilica at the Red Square in Moscow and the Cathedral of Petersburg, the Omsk church is one of the three most beautiful churches in Russia. We returned to the hotel with a lot of photos and new impressions – beginning with Omsk’s first building from prefabricated slabs to the ancient tartar fortress which was also the place of foundation of the city in 1716.

The first camera team was already waiting for us at the hotel parking lot when we were leaving for the project presentation. Accordingly we arrived late at the Jeep-representation due to the interview and the photos that were taken. Nevertheless we were heartily welcomed here as well. The open German-English-Russian-speaking conversation which was led mostly by the fellow journalists, who already proved its value in Tyumen. Therefore Matthias suggested this form of presentation again. It was a relaxing and happy atmosphere. An animated conversation developed between the representatives of the press, the management of the car dealer and the expedition team which was continued during a luxurious buffet. We have hardly ever been welcomed in such a hospitable and heartily way and with such a great interest before.

Omsk was a great milestone! We are glad that we had the opportunity to be here and get to know these people.


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Spr-T-23
11-27-2008, 03:53 PM
wish i was there

BlueGerbil
11-30-2008, 08:18 AM
November 25-28, 2008: Novosibirsk

Busy in Siberia’s capital

Right from the start we scheduled a stop in Novosibirsk for several days. The reason for that: Here, our vehicles and trailers were supposed to be modified for the cold. Spikes have been attached to all tires – on vehicles and trailers as well as the backup tires. Additionally the engines and transmissions will receive a felt insulation as protection against the cold. Basis for this planning was the assumption that we would have to deal with Siberian temperatures by Novosibirsk at the latest. But still the thermometers show temperatures around zero degree. The Chrysler-center in Novosibirsk is the last possibility for the necessary changes before we reach the Altai Mountains where there will definitely be snow. Therefore and despite the extraordinarily high outside temperatures, we are in the middle of the vehicle remodelling. Several Russians told us that nature uses this long period of mild temperatures to prepare itself for an extremely cold winter.

After expecting difficulties in the garage – once again the gateway was too low for our roof construction – now everything works according to plan and to our utmost satisfaction. The garage was rearranged especially for our two vehicles and the entire mechanical team was waiting for us. In a special garage, several men were spiking our tires. The first set is already fitted with spikes and returned to the Chrysler dealer in order to be assembled to the vehicles. Evgeny – who has some vehicles himself – has a lot of experiences when it comes to the protection of engines against the cold. Now he is supporting the mechanical team with the insulation. Matthias was able to take the first vehicle and trailer to the car wash. Finally we will (even by colour) be recognized as expedition team again and stand out among the other car traffic. Despite the cooperativeness and the focussed work, Matthias is afraid that we will have a long night ahead of us in order to get the vehicles completely done.

Besides the necessary modifications against the cold there were other reasons for the long stop in Novosibirsk. Two important aspects were the presentation of our project at the Technical University as well as the personal contact to the German Consulate General. First we were invited to the consulate. There, we met all the people who are responsible for the support of our project. Since that time we are extremely happy to know that this great team of the consulate will back us up all the way to the Bering Strait.

Nobody knew that the press conference at the Technical University the very next day would top the positive impression of the work in the garage and the consulate general! The entire event was characterized by a highly professional, intensive and successful cooperation between the consulate, the university and DAAD. In regards to location, technology and the announcement of the press conference we can assure that they made a good job of it – everything was prepared at best. Therefore the project presentation turned out to be a huge success. After we were welcomed by the principal who also informed us about the university, we had a short conversation concerning the topic “renewable energies”. When entering the ballroom, we were overwhelmed by the big audience and attending TV-teams. The room was packed. Further listeners were standing in the hallways and in front of the rearward wall. Matthias made a very short presentation of the project and relied on the interest and the questions by the audience. An animated conversation about the cars, the expedition and renewable energies – Russia’s future market – developed between the vice principal, the consul general and Matthias on the podium and the journalists and students in the audience. For the first time there was another item on the agenda: An invitation for tea and pastries which we gladly accepted. After the two meetings with the consulate and the university, Matthias said that we could have taken another Jeep with all the interested and cooperative employees from both facilities with us on the road.

Our next goal – the Russian-Mongolian border – is about 900 kilometers away. Whenever possible, Matthias is already sitting in the Chrysler-showroom to prepare our border crossing via telephone with the help of an interpreter.

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BlueGerbil
12-06-2008, 07:14 AM
November 29-December 01, 2008: Altay - Mongolian Border - Olgy
Mountains, snow and another border!
In the afternoon we hit the road from Novosibirsk towards the Mongolian border with the completely re-packed and frost-resistant vehicles and two new expedition participants – in Novosibirsk, the TV-journalist Hendrik Pfefferkorn and cameraman Marco Schwarzer joined the expedition. We had 900 kilometres and the drive through the scenic Russian region Altay ahead of us. This mountain stage presented us three challenges: the first snow, heavy inclines and declines - and all that during night time driving. As long as there was enough light we have been able to take some nice photo and film shoots: flock of sheep, wild horses, cows walking by, green rivers, snow covered hilltops and scenic wooden bridges.
About 50 kilometres before we were supposed to reach the Russian-Mongolian border, we reached our accommodation, the hotel transit in Kosh Agash. The surprise was, that this hotel was the best hotel in the area – the only one with restrooms inside. We thought that the entire second floor was reserved for us but in the evening we saw that a Mongolian was occupying one of the other rooms and at night time another four Mongolian women moved into a room on the second floor. As we woke up in the morning and started to get ready, we noticed how efficiently the premises got used: Besides us, another 10 to 15 Mongolians have been sleeping in these two rooms which were not occupied by us. Luckily, we thought to be alone for the entire evening. Due to the fact that the only restaurant in Kosh Anash was closed that day, we went to the supermarket, bought plenty of food, and improvised the cooking which was not really tasty, but at least we had a cheerful dinner together.
On Monday morning we left towards the Russian – Mongolian border in bright sunshine. First topic in Kosh Anash: we had to be present at the border office, because of our female translator who is supposed to accompany us till the customs clearance at the Russian – Mongolian border. This unexpected extra appointment made Matthias feelings change into apprehensiveness in connection with the upcoming border crossing. From this point our way was snowy, straight and uphill for many miles. We could see the beginning mountains and a vague idea of a right turn at the horizon. Right there we decided to make another stop to take some photo and film shoots. Scenery, Lands-end-atmosphere and the fantastic light had to be captured in photo and film.
Immediately after we left the curve behind us, we reached the border town Tashanta. Right in front of us were the border superstructures of the Russian side, two cows on the street and primarily no traffic at all. Surprisingly the custom clearance at the Russian border was really fast. They knew that we were coming, waited for us and after three hours we were able to cross the border. With its impressive demonstrative bigness, Russia said goodbye for a while: The no man’s land between Russia and Mongolia is an over 20 kilometres long fenced mountain range.
Mongolia welcomed us with a big sensation: Not only that the entire border office was informed that we were coming and all worked overtime, furthermore they did their job in an absolute record time as well. Within 45 minutes the Carnet ATA´s got stamped, the passports have been controlled and the entry approved. Additionally, those friendly officers allowed us to take pictures and film them, which were forbidden on all the other border offices. Icing on the cake of our entry was that our guide Nasaa waited as arranged directly at the frontier. A happy reunion with Matthias made this uncomplicated entry perfect.
After a short stop for tea and noodles, we had to handle the first real off-road passage: With snow flurry and a visibility of down to two meters, Nasaa directed us and we followed an around 55 kilometres long snow covered mountain track. Luckily we had our guide with us, because we would have never believed Matthias that this track was the right way. We were really tired but in this way we reached the hotel in Olgy one day earlier than planned. Now we are ahead of the designated time in our schedule, primarily owed to the successful cooperation at the border crossings. We would like to thank all the Russian, Mongolian and German authorities for this great support. Thank you!
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BlueGerbil
12-06-2008, 08:08 AM
December 02 Olgy - Hovd Tract leg with mountain action

Different strokes for different folks: Our day started with an entirely unlikely breakfast. We ate shish kebab and soup in a Turkish restaurant. - Who knows when we will get such a square meal for the next time? Meanwhile a person with obviously different breakfast habits than our own had breakfast in our hotel room. The evening before, we found a raw piece of meat on bones in the freezer and when we came back from the Turkish restaurant to load our vehicles, we noticed that this “different” meal was gone. Luckily we could abstain this special breakfast choice of the hotel!
Not only regarding the breakfast, but also with our telecommunication we crossed a border yesterday. We lost our service right after we left Novosibirsk and it came back only for the short border crossing from Russia to Mongolia. Luckily, Matthias was able to put or on-board solution with satellite-telephone, -fax and –email into operation after no modern terrestrial communication worked! Nonetheless, on every milestone we are looking for reliable internet connection in order to send pictures and reports in higher quantities. The publishing house Ullmann and several other editorial departments as well as the project-page are constantly waiting for new information. In an exhausting one-hour-long action in a public internet café in Olgy, Hendrik and Astrid have been able to send the latest report from the border crossing from Russia to Mongolia and three pictures to the office in Limburg. It seems like we have to set new standards for this in Mongolia.
According to the upcoming kilometres, the next stage was quite short with just 200 kilometres from Olgy to Hovd. Therefore our photographer and film team spent much time on the street – it was not very far anyway. But, this stage was the first one without a regular street at all. We slowly moved forward on tracks out of sand and stone. Besides that, we had to manage two mountain passes with a over 2.600 metres. Due to the heavy trailers, we had to drive in low gears for many kilometres.
The scenery was breathtaking. Lakes, a 4,000 metres high crest, snow covered mountains and ridges out of sand and snow were on our way. Sometimes in between it felt like we were driving through the desert. As far as we could see – and that was really far – there was no tree, no bush and definitely no other vehicles. On the 200 kilometres long road we crossed only one road sign. More than once we needed our Mongolian guide Nasaa to get us in the right direction.
As the scenery was beautiful then ever – a wide tableland, lakes right and left and a sunset as kitschy as it could be – we were challenged by a real off-road mission. Right in front of us, a truck broke into a frozen lake while trying to cross it. The two drivers had already piled up the freight next to the truck and made themselves a rough-and-ready tent out of a rag. That’s not much in contrast to the -24 °C and a strong wind. They had been waiting for help for two days now. Without further ado, Matthias activated the winch. With full brakes and eight blocking tires, the Jeep and the trailer got pulled closer to the truck by the winch. Even together with the second vehicle with 8,5 tons in total, it was not possible to move the 12 tons truck which has already been frozen into the ice. With all possible effort and both vehicles, we tried for about 1 ½ hours to help the truck drivers, unfortunately without success. We hope that the bulldozer which is on its way to rescue them arrives quickly in order to get these two drivers out of this life-threatening situation.
Nasaa´s family heartily welcomed us in their home when we reached Hovd. We were offered a great dinner and had good night’s sleep in our sleeping bags.

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BlueGerbil
12-06-2008, 08:48 AM
December 03-05, 2008: Hovd - Gobi - Altay

Along the desert towards the hydroelectric power plant

Matthias already awoke with the feeling that the vehicles had to be checked after 200 kilometers of humpy earth road. Intuitional driving: The feeling was correct! Both exhaust systems had to be fastened and numerous screws had to be retightened. At dusk – after the inauguration of F1 and F2 by Nasaa’s mother and after saying good-bye to his very kind family – we set out for the Mongolian city Altay which was 450 kilometers away.

Again, we had to drive on humpy earth roads made of stone and sand. Unfortunately it was dark once again, so that we did not see much – if anything at all – of the mountains and lakes which were located only few kilometers outside of Hovd. This definitely had to change! Today’s section leads us through the Gobi Desert. We all wanted to get the impression of it. Accordingly, we were driving to exhaustion before we stopped for some sleep in the cars. We awoke with the sunrise over the desert. The break was well worth it – the view was breathtaking! Despite minus 27 degrees outside temperature, we all jumped out of the cars with our cameras in our hands. Unfortunately, besides the touristic highlight “Gobi Desert by sunrise”, we also had to refuel the vehicles (including a tank-to-tank fuel transfer). Now even the last member of the team got an idea of the expected temperatures ahead of us.

The landscape of the desert was very impressing – the pictures that our photographer took are self-explanatory. Not only the landscape but also the encounters we had, were very special. A goatherd came up to us – after spending the night outside between his animals – to ask for a drink. A caravan of camels crossed our path. We also met truck drivers at a nomad family who did not have enough fuel to continue their journey. However, our tanks were empty as well – and the bio ethanol which we could have donated to them from our big tank would not have done any good to the Russian truck. After these experiences in the desert we were all very surprised to find the 12,000-inhabitant city Altay only kilometres away. The contrast could not have been any bigger!

The main message of our expedition is the usage of renewable energies. This topic is also of crucial importance in Mongolia. Already, every second Mongolian uses renewable energies for his supply. The country offers all necessary resources for the use of wind, water and sun to generate energy. Starting in Altay, we headed towards Mongolia’s biggest hydroelectric power plant - The power plant Taishir: The dam with a height of 45 meters will restrain 930 million cubic meters of water once it is completely filled in five to eight years. Nature is taken care of, even while restraining the water: Only additional floodwaters of the Zavkhan River are restrained – the other water follows its natural course. An engineer explained the dam’s sphere of action to us and guided us through a tunnel underneath the impressing city wall. With this construction, the Mongolians are on the right track to ecological energy generation.

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BlueGerbil
12-11-2008, 05:17 PM
December 06-08, 2008: Gobi Altay - Arvaiheer - Harhorin - Nationalpark Hustai
On our track from Gobi Altay to Bayanhongor we were faced with every imaginable surface like: a hard humpy earth road, difficult-to-drive sand tracks with heavy potholes, snow tracks, up- and downhill on brown grass as well as a nearly endless high plateau with a well drivable road combined with comfortable new and perfectly even asphalt on the last 10 kilometres before we reached our goal. That was not Bayanhongor anymore, but Arvaiheer. The reason for this spontaneous change of our stage goal: All of a sudden the price of the heated garage for the vehicles was 20 times higher than agreed in the beginning.
Due to the fact that we passed the friendly Mongolian border check so quickly and that we came along so well driving a lot at night even though we had to stop twice to work on our trailers, we are ahead of our schedule. We enlarged our lead to the plan with our journey to Arvaiheer. Accordingly we have some more relaxed days as usual before us, which is a good feeling for a change.
Because we altered our stage goal from Bayanhongor to Arvaiheer we had to cross a stream course by night. We were not sure, if it was frozen or not. Right before the river we made a refuelling stop. The routine visual check of Jeeps and trailers was negative: A number of things were loose due to the shaking and a tension belt of one of the pontoons was ripped off. With a storm of sand and snow combined with temperatures of minus 25 degrees Celsius, even simple repairs like those turned into a big action for the entire team. To fasten the belt, we had to remove the fender from the trailer beforehand. Luckily there was a yurt colony at the stream course where we have been able to warm up and eat some fresh made noodles directly after we had our two hours of work. Therefore we were strengthened to drive through the night.
Later at another repair action we had a strange encounter: We passed through a giant valley – 30 kilometres to the left, to the right, behind and ahead of us – just this huge valley but not any single person or boundaries. After a ground hit in a big pot hole, Matthias decided to change the front shock absorber of F1. Right when we jacked up the vehicle on a stone pile, a car rushed by, stopped and parked right next to us. Four Mongolians got out of the car and asked about the expedition and the repairs. We immediately got invited to horsemeat and vodka. They made an improvised picnic with all their supplies and in the end we received another bottle of vodka as a present. As it turned out later, one of them was the owner of a big Mongolian company. Finally it felt stranger than ever, when they gave us a music CD each and Evgeny as well as Matthias two DVDs where the business man acted as Chinggis Khaan.
The next stage after Arvaiheer was Harhorin, where the entire team had to check the jeeps and the trailers again for shaking damages and afterwards could rest in a comfortable hotel. In the old city of Chinggis Khaan which is now an UNESCO cultural heritage, we got an anglophone guided tour through the museum and the buddhistical temples. From this place, an overnight stay in a yurt was supposed to be organized – not an easy task. Matthias already slept in a beautiful camp at the foot of the impressive dune Elsen-Tasarhai during his scout tour through Mongolia. Unfortunately we had no chance as that camp like many others have been closed for the upcoming really cold winter and no more accommodation was possible. Consequently, this stage lead us 250 kilometres further in direction of Ulan Bataar into the yurt-camp of the national park of Hustai.

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BlueGerbil
12-21-2008, 06:34 AM
13.-15.12.2008: Ulan Ude – departure to Jakutsk
With the Amazons to the lama-school

A really hard decision had to be made today. Due to a contact of the German Embassy in Moscow – who we would like to thank again for his dedication – we met Slava Bulatow in Ulan Ude. He had different things prepared for us. Unfortunately these things did not work out because of the previous border-crossing which caused our timing to shift. It was absolutely necessary, though, to visit one of Russia’s most important Buddhist temples. Our reasoning: This sanctuary needs to be seen if you are visiting Buritania. The miracle of this Buddhist temple – which, in Buritania, is called “Datsan” – is a sitting lama which has not aged for the last 70 years. Furthermore we were welcomed so heartily when we reached Ulan Ude that we just could not refuse this request.

The concerns which made it so difficult for us to accept this proposal spontaneously were complex: The next section to Jakutsk – with a distance of 2,560 kilometers – was ahead of us. We wanted to accomplish this part without stopovers – this alone was already a big challenge for the entire team. The weather forecast for the route to Jakutsk said there would be fog, a lot of snow and temperatures down to -50 degrees Celsius – not very good conditions for a fast accomplishment of the route. The team wanted to start early and have the whole day for driving. We were afraid that by agreeing to the suggested trip, we would loose half of the time that we are ahead of the schedule right now. All in all, the conditions to reach Magadan by December 26 are difficult enough as it is.

In the end the trip to the Buddhist monastery “Gandan Dashi Choinkhoryg” proved to be one of the best decisions that we have made so far! We did not just get an insight into the most important Buritanian Buddhist center, but also found new friends in the Baikal-Amazons as well as Slava and his son Roman who were also on board. While some Amazons were happy to drive the 30 kilometers to the monastery in the Jeeps with Matthias and Evgeny, we enjoyed the walk in the rising sun through the area around the monastery. Each and everyone of the expedition team probably used some of the numerous praying drums on this trip to ask for the success of the expedition, an accident-free drive or similar helpful aspects. Furthermore we were informed about the history of the monastery and the lama-school. This early Sunday morning trip was definitely worth it!
Back at the hotel, Swetlana, head of the Baikal-Amazons, had arranged a TV-team. Because of the interviews of Matthias and Evgeny, we almost made up for the cancelled press conference the day before. Afterwards we all had lunch together. We told our friends from Ulan Ude what we experienced the day before at the border – which we have spent without a warm meal. Therefore they wanted to send us on the way to Jakutsk well-prepared. Of course all this hospitality, the interesting program, the presents (the day before we were given Buritanian balm which is some kind of herbal liqueur) and the happy tri-lingual conversations over the last 20 hours were more than enough. But additionally, when we were ready to leave, they provided us with a contact for an accommodation in Jakutsk.

This encounter especially delighted us. We hope that one day we will be able to pay them back for their hospitality. We will definitely keep in contact with the dedicated and interesting off-road drivers of the Baikal-Amazons and follow their activities. We would like to especially thank Karl Bauer from Moscow and Slava from Ulan Ude for the preparation of our stay and their perfect support in Ulan Ude.
After this great encounter and the successful visit of the temple, we were well-prepared for the long way to Jakutsk. Our first landmark on the route was the city Chinta which was about 800 kilometers away. We reached Chita about 24 hours after leaving Ulan Ude – unfortunately we also used these 800 kilometers to get completely lost. After getting stuck in a courtyard, the local police was a big help for a change: By the help of some very friendly policemen, we were freed from the dead end and escorted to the outskirts of the city. There, we continued on our journey but due to difficult and very rugged tracks, the driving was tough. We are curious to see how long the drive to Jakutsk will finally take. One thing is for sure: The news about the -68° Celsius temperatures in Jakutsk seems to be true. The outside temperatures are getting colder and colder. Long ago we reached the minimum value of -39° of our digital thermometer – for now, our makeshift outside sensing devices show a temperature of -46°. Brrr…
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BlueGerbil
12-28-2008, 03:30 AM
December 15-21, 2008: Chita - Jakutsk

XXL-section with obstacles

Shortly after our departure from Ulan Ude, the outside conditions became even more difficult than in Mongolia: Temperatures of down to -52° Celsius were extremely straining for people, machinery and material. Furthermore, we were on our 2,650-kilometers section from Ulan Ude to Yakutsk, which we wanted to cover non-stop. This burden became clearly noticeable very soon. Within about 200 kilometers, totally unexpected damages occurred on the special rear-axle-differentials (from the free accessories market) – the original differentials have been replaced during the vehicle modifications – of both cars. This made a direct continuation of our journey impossible.

The problem about these momentous breakdowns: First there was an unmistakable damage on F2. After a hara-kiri rescue-procedure in less than -50° Celsius and action which could fit in the program “daredevils without nerves”, we had a transport to a garage in the next village (about 120 kilometers away) with the name Aldan. There, they were able to diagnose the damage and order spare parts from Germany. Starting at the industrial plant about 24 hours later, the journey to Jakutsk continued for the F2 and its team via truck and trailer skip. Unfortunately, only 100 kilometers after continuing the journey, an identical damage occurred at the leading F1. This time the consequences were even more dramatic and unpredictable. Matthias decided that the already broken down F2, as well as the trailer and all team members should continue to Jakutsk, where the necessary spare parts were supposed to arrive 24 hours later. He himself spent the night at the damaged F1 and was towed – in a ten hours long procedure – back to the garage in Aldan, to gain clarity about the damages as fast as possible. The organisation of further urgently needed spare parts, which were supposed to be brought along from Germany, happened under most extreme time pressure.

Meanwhile, the team, which by now was on the road for three days and nights, continued its journey towards Jakutsk. A sudden new obstacle occurred here as well: Before entering the city Jakutsk, you have to cross the Lena. The unbelievable: Not a single bridge exists for this big city! Not even before or behind the city. You do not have another choice but to cross the river. In summer time there are ferries, in winter it freezes. But at the moment the crossing of the frozen river was only permitted for a specific load which we had more than exceeded. Therefore our trailer and the Jeep had to be reloaded onto a smaller truck. Once again a lot of organizing via telephone: Who is doing what? Where does the crane come from? How much is the truck? Can Jeep and trailer be reloaded? What happens when Matthias arrives piggyback with the F1 at this exact same spot the next day? What does all this mean for our time schedule? The catalogue of questions seemed to be unlimited!

At this point we would like to thank all helpers for their effort during this very difficult five-day section! It is unbelievable how many people from Ulan Ude, Jakutsk, Aldan and Germany have made an effort of tremendous intensity to find solutions for this section – which has been characterized by unpredictable difficulties – and helpful participate.

Altogether the entire team was working nonstop for five days with hardly any sleep. Matthias reached the city only a few hours after our own arrival in Jakutsk via a special minivan. With a hotel in the city center as head quarters for the next two days, we were able to manage many things: The receipt of the spare parts which were organized by Extrem Events, the upcoming repairs at F2, photo- and film-shootings of the city for the book by the Ullmann publishing house and the documentary of the expedition, travel preparations for all team members and preparations for the continuation of the expedition to the Bering Strait in January with the next team. Due to the current situation and the excellent infrastructure in Jakutsk – a great garage with a professional and extremely helpful boss Serafim, an international airport, the possibility to purchase missing things in the city, extensive film- and photo-possibilities, as well as authorities which can issue the necessary permissions for the drive through Chukotka – Matthias decided that both vehicles will be prepared for the drive through Chukotka and the crossing of the Bering Strait in Jakutsk, and not (like previously planned) in Magadan. Furthermore, the team change will be relocated from Magadan to Jakutsk, too. After making sure that all team members have a return flight to Germany, Matthias drove back to Aldan tonight via the special minivan to repair F1. As soon as the Jeep and trailer will arrive in Jakutsk on its own wheels and by its own accord, Matthias will have provided a good, secure and warm location for the Jeeps by rescheduling the necessary work and all organizational concerns from Magadan to Jakutsk. An excellent basis has been created for the continuation of the expedition in January.

BlueGerbil
12-28-2008, 03:51 AM
December 21-27, 2008: Jakutsk - Magadan

How to build a rear axle differential on Christmas due to boredom

I was still in Aldan on the 24st to repair the expedition vehicle F1 and drive it together with the trailer MJ46 to Jakutsk - which finally was successful (arrival 25st 1.00 a.m.). The reparation as such was extremely difficult and together with my Russian companion Dima, I needed two days and nights for it, due to a wrong delivery of the rack & pinion set of the spare parts distributor. As in Russia everything is possible, we manage to build the differential out of 2 wrong differential sets together with the support of some helpers from Aldan.

How? Take a too thick ring gear, destroy it for testing purposes and turn it to fit with an axle turning machine of a gigantic size. Therefore one has to modify those machines, which means a lot of ours of work, after stopping the production of industry parts with the help of an understanding manager. To use those huge machines, one has to produce a suitable clamp tool out of a chain set of a crawler which is not in use any more (instructions on demand :-)). Same procedure for the bevel gear shaft, after determining the necessary measures in uncountable installations and demounting in advance without any measuring tools. Furthermore, ideally some old screws with special thread measured in inches are needed. These have to be modified to screw thread carving tools with the help of a rasp. This effort similar difficult as a puzzle is necessary to carve new screw threads in the ring gear.
Later on, let an exceptionally gifted, old Russian mechanic whet three 0,2mm space discs by hand and them with other discs of the wrong modification sets. From then on there are only some more hours of patient setting test, the manual construction of a gear clamp as well as a special lifting tool and self-made thick washers (on the above mentioned huge axle turning machine). There you are, a differential (otherwise only available in the USA for a lot of money) build out of nothing.

To make it perfect it is recommended, to accept the hospitality of helpers when the tiredness and the cold in the big halls are overpowering, to pay hundreds of telephone Euro, and not to feel annoyed with it - of course. Reaching Jaktusk on 24st December together with Dima who kept me somehow away to be able to drive, I flew to Magadan 3 hours later (at the crack of dawn) for discussion and other remaining topics. Evgeny also flew there via Habarowsk.

The remaining team which accompanied me to this point were already flown out on the 24st with the last plane and has sooner or later reached Germany.

At this point again many thanks to the excellent team which accompanied me and Evegeny since Moskau:
Astrid, Joachim, Marco, Hendrik you did a great job. I had much fun travelling with you. Thanks for all the support and the mutual, basically never-ending, laughter.

The new team will arrive in Jakutsk on January 15, 2009 to start the journey through Chukotka towards the Bering Strait.

Finally, thank you to all for the supported first part of the expedition with approximate 22,000km from Paris to Jakutsk and I wish you all Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

BlueGerbil
01-24-2009, 05:49 AM
Second part of the expedition

Right now the expedition team is still in Germany. The designated departure date is Friday, January 23, 2009. Due to the preparations of the return to Russia and the upcoming most difficult part of the entire project, the team needed some extra time in Germany and thus will depart to Jakutsk by today.

The time was also used to create two more short movies - find them here: http://pny2009.com/cms/front_content.php?idcat=659&lang=4

The movie clips now cover the entire driven track. Considering that the communication possibilities will become less, the team now has a satellite messenger which will show the current location online. Therefore it is now possible to follow the driven route via this card:

http://pny2009.com/cms/front_content.php?idcat=707&lang=4.

OverkillZJ
01-24-2009, 12:45 PM
What an adventure...

BlueGerbil
01-31-2009, 10:05 AM
January 23-25, 2009: Back on track

It was a troublesome start - hopefully now everything bad is covered right from the beginning.

First of all we had to pay almost 1500 € for our excess luggage at Frankfurt Airport, which should not be the case. Furthermore we became problems with the Russian administration for the first time since the expedition started – apart from that they always exemplary supported us – because they confiscated my signal pistol and ammo right at the Domodedovo Airport with the reason that an important document is missing.

Right before our connecting flight was leaving, they let me go – unfortunately without my signal pistol and ammo. Together with Marco, 240kg luggage, 2 luggage carts, 3 employees of the – in my opinion - most impolite airline ever – S7- and 2 police officers, we ran through the corridors, hallways, security checks and over a special entrance to the luggage compartment where additional four helpers were waiting to load our stuff in the last seconds before take off. Afterwards Marco and I stepped inside of the airplane, the doors directly closed and we started.
In Novosibirsk the fight with another employee of the S7 airline continued after 16 hours waiting at the airport, because they charged us another 1000 € and acted like they where displaying. Again, we barely reached our flight and this time with a special bus for me and Marco. It really suc*** to travel with the S7.

42 hours after leaving Germany it got nicer when in Yakutsk. Serafim perfectly prepared our arrival. We were picked up and already at 6:00 am they opened up their garages for us to store our equipment. Now quickly to the hotel so we can start early enough with the modification and preparation of the vehicles for the hardest track at all. I planned 4-5 days for this.

Ulrich, our photographer is going to be here January 28th, Konstantin from Moscow at the 29th and Kasper from Zurich at the 30th. We are going to meet Evgeny in Ustnera which is about 1000 kilometres away, where he will directly travel to from Magadan…

BlueGerbil
01-31-2009, 10:12 AM
January 26, 2009: Modification/preparation of the vehicles

Our job right now is the maximum weight reduction and the preparation as well as modification for one of the most challenging off road tracks in the world with parts which have never been managed before.

We checked everything, really everything for usefulness. If we do not actually need it anymore, we sell it or give it to poor people. Not only clothing but also equipment. We just take what is absolutely necessary.
As planned right from the beginning, we dismounted our roof-boxes in order to send them to Fairbanks where we are going to mount them again. That is necessary because our emergency exit on the Bering Straight will be through the removable front roof halves of the PNY Jeeps. The front tanks will be given to the local people of Uelen.

Furthermore, we exchanged one of the two subsurface tanks that we accidentally ripped a hole in. We established the satellite communication system and navigation system (laptop, fax, GPS, compass, emergency signal, emergency radio communication etc.), reactivated a closer contact to the University of Alaska, turned on our new tracking device, started to release one of our trailers from the frost numbness, fixed the electric of F2 and exchanged the oil seal of F1.

BlueGerbil
01-31-2009, 10:22 AM
January 27, 2009: Strip my trailer

„Does everything has to upset me?“ That were my thoughts when the „Sesaria” hotel (written in German as I understand it in Russian) all of a sudden wanted to charge us with a doubled price. I hate stuff like that. Before our departure, we stayed in the Polar Star Hotel and everything was ok. Now we decided to stay in a simpler hotel.

For an according price you can easily ignore dirty rooms, a smelly bathroom, drain pipes passed on plaster, leaky bathtubs, lukewarm water, no roomcleaning service at all, no towels, greasy walls, broken closets, no blankets, insulting employees, falling sheathing, self-floating bathrooms due to the leakages etc. However, if the price doubles while excluding breakfast at the same time, then Matze really gets angry.

Ok, so far, a little bit of frustration - now back to the modification activities. Four mechanics, Marco and I are parallel working at the two PNY Jeeps and the trailers. Today we worked on my trailer. “Strip my trailer” was the slogan after the special trailers survived the toughness since the expedition started without any problems – They did a great job.
Then we started to demount, grind, weld etc. everything that is not essentially necessary. The unbundling of the specially designed trailers started. A total mess when the last melted ice out of the smallest corners, makes you wet after flowing down the dirt of the trailers – everything because you have to work lying on the floor underneath because a car hoist does not exist. Little by little we will dismount the trailers until nothing is left but the frame. By then we should have been arrived in Uelen. The before/after pictures will be published in about two days. Furthermore we started with the installation of the auxiliary heating system from Webasto, exchanged the second fuel tank, replaced the previous trailer couplings with the current and new special “nato” trailer coupling from Rockinger for extreme off road driving and mounted the third winch at the vehicles.

Totally exhausted we hit the sacks at around midnight. Already at 5:00 am we have to get up again to pick up Ulrich (our photographer) at the airport.

BlueGerbil
02-11-2009, 02:23 PM
January 28-February 01, 2009:

During the last three days there was a lot of work and organization as well as arrivals/absence of team members going on.

On the 28th early in the morning, I picked up Ulrich Kaifer - our photographer - from the airport. He arrived in Jakutsk without complications. Now we were three people and completely addressed ourselves to the mentioned modification of the vehicles.

It was great that we were also able to meet some old friends in Jakutsk:
Thomas Beil and Uwe Lay. Thomas, to whom I sold a motorcycle some time ago, travelled with his friend to Oimjakon with. Both supported us organizationally and brought material to Jakutsk and back home. We sincerely thank both of them for their help.

Konstantin Savva arrived on the 29th. Our second Russian team member came from Moscow and took care of the special permits right away. We were four.

Kaspar Mettler arrived - after some delays and flight changes - on the 30th.
After a 48 hours long flight he was directly involved in the garage work for another twelve hours. He perfectly faced that exhaustive task and did a great job. We were five.

Now we were simply waiting for a message from Evgeny who was supposed to let us know when he would arrive in Ustnera (1000 kilometers away from where we are right now). That's where we wanted to meet him in order to jointly continue our trip. Unfortunately, it didn't develop as planned. Two days ago Evgeny let us know that - due to urgent business affairs - he had to stay in Magadan for another 10-14 days. That's not what we had in mind. Now we were missing a driver and had to change the teams. Marco in F2 with Kaspar who is now driving the F2 on his own responsibility. Konstantin, Ulrich, and myself in F1.

As of today, February 01, 2009, after receiving great help by Serafim and his team - Artyom, Valarie, Dima, Micha, Sonja and Dima - we are heading towards Belibina.

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BlueGerbil
02-11-2009, 02:28 PM
February 01-03, 2009:

Sometimes I am wondering if certain incidents can be called normal or coincidental, for example Kaspar Mettler. Only a few days before my departure, Kaspar called and let us know that he wanted to take part in the most challenging parts of the expedition. We made it possible and integrated him in the team. Only 2-3 days later I received the news that Evgeny will not – or maybe a lot later – be able to join us. Eventually we will meet him in Pevek. Not only that we are now missing an experienced off road-driver but also the driver of the second expedition vehicle. Neither Marco nor Konstantin – possibly limited Ulrich – can drive the Jeeps through thousands of kilometers of tough terrain. Kaspar can do it. Already after a few days we know: Kaspar ideally fits in our team. He is an experienced, reasonable and reliable driver and team player. He is a perfect match. We are very grateful for this. Altogether we have a great team at the moment. Uli, Marco, Konstantin – all of them professionals in regards of teamwork, fairness and cooperation. Uli and his great humor, Marco and his Bavarian easy-going nature and Konstantin and his Russian calmness.

Since yesterday 4 P.M. we are on the road again and it seems that Yakutia presents us the same challenges as in December when we arrived. The region and its down to -52° Celsius is the reason, that everything is very difficult.

Today, for the first time we saw a phenomenon which is dreaded by each and every driver around here: Nalid Ice.
What it is, how it occurs, and what kinds of risk it implies:
Generally it occurs when a river totally freezes all the way to the ground due to coldest temperatures. The oncoming water cannot flow underneath the ice anymore. Therefore it squeezes through or over the ice. At some points water bubbles up to a height of several meters appear. The overflowing water does not freeze right away and is not stable enough to cross it. Vehicles that drive over it will break into the ice and freeze up – if they are not recovered fast enough. Some vehicles/trucks wait for weeks or even months to be recovered. At the river Setorym we experienced Nalid Ice. Fortunately it only broke open for about 10/15 cm. We were able to cross it.

Meanwhile we arrived in Ustnera. After almost exactly 42 hours of non-stop driving. All of us are awake for about 53 hours (if you disregard the three 1-hour sleep stops in the loneliness of Jakutia). Today’s task is still ahead of us: We have to prepare the vehicles for the next section which will lead us along the Kolyma river to Syrianka.

The people in Ustnera have warned us that due to the low temperatures, there will be a lot of Nalid Ice. Furthermore there has been a storm two days ago which has covered everything in snow – damn!

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BlueGerbil
02-11-2009, 02:34 PM
February 04, 2009:

We had to rearrange our plans and decided to spent the day in Ustnera. After all, five hours of sleep is not enough to make up for the 60 hours that we have been awake, to face the dangerous 400 kilometers to Syrianka. Everybody advises us to be careful. At the same time they also help us to make some tricky adjustments to the cars and organize special icebreaker bars, etc. We will set off tomorrow morning again.

In the evening, our friend Vitalie from Ustnera invited us to his mother's birthday party. We were served with the best specialties from Jakutsk, like intestines of young horses and other treats. We spent four hours amid his family. Dancing and singing are a tradition, therefore also we performed a German song and - after some shots of vodka - danced with women in the age of our mothers. It was a great celebration. In other words, it was a very nice farewell from civilization to the hardship of the Kolymar area.

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BlueGerbil
02-14-2009, 05:24 AM
February 05, 2009: Start of the winter roads
After having loaded about 850 liters of fuel and produced the correct bio-ethanol mix ratio, we left Ustnera at around 10 a.m. Temporarily we felt like captains of a ship: With initial 1.2 bar air pressure (lateron we reduced to 0.7 bar due to heavy snow drifts) and a precautionary measure which was going to pay off - we removed the stabilizers - the vehicles were rocking like in rough seas. The reason: Without the stabilizers, the lacing bond is improved. Furthermore, the electric disconnectors - which will freeze when breaking into water - cannot threat us with removed stabilizers.
After driving about 90 kilometers on a winter road towards Magadan, we reached the small, unimpressive junction to Szyrianka. This point marks the beginning of Chukotka's tough winter roads. From here (about 600 m above sea level), we followed our first winter road section towards Sasyr. The 60 kilometers long track lead us over the rivers Burustach and Andigitschan. During this 15 hours long drive, altogether we covered a distance of about 220 kilometers, crossed three mountain passes of up to 1,300 meters above sea level, helped two truck drivers whose truck broke down with an engine damage by making an emergency call to their head office via satellite telephone, drove through the aquarium* and winched my Jeep and trailer several times out of deep snow after getting stuck while breaking through the snowy surface. The winches definitely proved their value with the Jeeps and trailers (weight about eight tons) as well as the special trailer coupling system from Rockinger. These systems ensure the most extreme lacing bonds between vehicle and trailer - which we had often enough. The winter roads are tracks that were cleared by 6x6 or 8x8 trucks.
They lead cross-country, along or through/across rivers, woods, hillsides, plains, etc. Just where the trucks are able to get through. Often we were driving with 6 mph or less and passed through valleys or high plateaus and over passes which were of impressive beauty. On one of the plateaus there must have been a fierce storm not too long ago. It looked like an area after an earthquake. There were jags, ice and snow drifts of several meters everywhere. In the surreal light of the headlights they looked like broken earth.
En route we met truck drivers in their extreme Urals and Kamaz, which were keenly struggling through. They told us about several open rivers that are not freezing due to warm water. We should be cautious when crossing them. After arriving at the open river at 3 a.m. we stopped and prepared ourselves for the night. It was too dangerous to cross the river at night. By good coincidence, we saw a convoy of trucks coming towards us the next morning. The trucks only barely crossed the river. We saw how a Kamaz, that was not able to scale the meters high ice step, was recovered out of the river. Not far from where the trucks were crossing, Kaspar found an old, destroyed bridge. It won't carry the trucks, but we hope that it will bear our vehicles which would save us from a difficult winching action.
*The Aquarium: For truck drivers an infamous little lake close to the third mountain pass on which usually forms a lot of Nalid Ice. In the morning we met truck drivers that told us that it was 5 cm thick. In the afternoon it were already 30 cm and when we arrived we broke into the ice to above our axes. We had to drive through it because we would probably break even deeper in the ice the next morning and damage the vehicles at the wildly upwards pointing ice, broken by trucks. Consequently, we could not - as planned - stay the night at the third pass (temperatures at such altitudes are usually 10 degrees warmer than in the valley), but had to continue driving in order to prevent the wheels, breaks and axes from freezing after driving through the water.
Feeling group: After six hours of sleep and an extensive breakfast in a beautiful landscape at sunrise, the power was back. Before, the exertion was wearing us out.

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BlueGerbil
02-14-2009, 05:34 AM
February 06, 2009: Sasyr

The little bridge resisted the weight of our Jeeps. Additionally we passed a large area of Nalid Ice without any problems because it was already frozen again. The day was saved. A difficult section was completed.

Along our further way we spotted a basecamp of reindeer shepherds between some trees. It was temporarily abandoned. Nevertheless we were impressed. 1.5 meters above the ground there were some planks of wood tied together. The sheperds usually sleep on them in furs. There is only a makeshift cover for protection. Already yesterday we saw traces of one or more shepherds with a large number of animals. We followed the traces - but without meeting them.

Around 5 p.m. we arrived at the native village Sasyr which is about 85 kilometers away from our resting place for the night. It is mostly inhabited by horse and reindeer shepherd families and has a long tradition. Here you can also find the only museum which shows the history of the Ewene tribe. Less than five minutes after our arrival we were surrounded by approx. 20 children. They were really happy when we bought them chocolate from the little store. Immediately one of the children invited us to his home. Upon arrival, the family served us tea and pastry.
Afterwards we drove around 70 kilometers on the worst humpy earth roads through woods to our current nightly resting place in deep snow at -48° Celsius.

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BlueGerbil
02-14-2009, 05:39 AM
February 07, 2009:
I miscalculated narrowly.
Waking up in the morning was not due to the alarm clock ringing or because we were well-rested, but because of the engine shut down of F1. We did not want to refill the tanks at night and in icy temperatures. I calculated that the leftover fuel in the main tank should be just enough until the morning. It didn't last for the last half hour. It's out of question that a tank-to-tank fuel transfer directly after waking up and in the freezing cold is not really fun and that everybody is abruptly wide awake. The first beams of sunlight and a landscape that no painter could have imagined more beautiful made up for everything.
Our breakfast is always interesting. The crowded space conditions usually ask for acrobatic performances (this also applies to the picture editing that Uli accomplishes while driving, with a lot of dexterity and even more patience - in the front we hardly even hear his slight to medium cursing about another bruise on his head or similar anymore). Considering that breakfast is the only meal that we have in a state of rest - without driving - we try hard. As we are cooking in the vehicles, we have to turn the three sleeping places along with the interior equipment into a kitchen. Accordingly, some modification measures are necessary. :-)
But afterwards it's cuddly. Out of question, that three men can comfortably sleep in the Jeep. :-) This morning, for example, my bread - with a thick layer of jelly - which I had placed on top of my cup which was standing at the edge of the GPS which is mounted next to the radio equipment gave way to gravity. Before reaching its final position with the jelly on the bottom, on top of the hydraulic control, it grazed the radio cable, the steering wheel, then the laptop and finally it slid down along my pants and the seat fur.
By now we mostly drive in rivers or through river beds over driftwood. In one of these narrow river beds we met Vitali and Kirill. Both of them live in a 2.5 x 2.5 m tent. They are working on freeing a 6x6 Urla-truck that broke into Nalid Ice in mid December. The vehicle is one single, gigantic block of ice. The trick is to release the truck as one ice block from the river and to tow the 9 x 3 x 1.5 m block from the river onto land via an ice ramp and with two other supporting trucks.
An enormous task. It will take approximately two weeks. Afterwards it will take another week to get rid of the ice by using large Bunsen burners and get the truck rolling again. Another truck will tow the damaged vehicle 200 kilometers into the next village where the repair can start.
We hope to arrive in Syrianka in around seven hours.
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BlueGerbil
02-14-2009, 05:44 AM
February 11, 2009 - Part One
We are crawling forward with 3 mph - actually too slow. The extremely intense, hard, and bumpy winter ways do not allow higher speeds. After approximately 3 days of non-stop driving behind Ustnera (we always slept only few hours in the taiga) we reached Syrianka yesterday afternoon. We immediately started the search for a warm garage and accommodation for the night. Thanks to some friendly helpers, we succeeded in both. The garage was big enough for the vehicles and the trailers and despite Sunday break, we have been allowed to start with the check and repair of cars and trailers. Meanwhile, a part of the team bought supplies for the upcoming 1500 km to Bilibina. Konstantin organized a room for us (5 men in 3,5m x 3,5m) where we finally were able to stretch out (see Ulis notes *). Irina, the friendly, elderly matron cooked for us and in the meantime we were able to wash some things.
Matthias Jeschke
*Ulrich Kaifer
Finally a hotel
We had a small, cute apartment with one room and a small kitchen. The bathroom gave an extremely good impression. I had the honor to use it first, which I thankfully accepted - after 3 days of abstinence. In contrast to all past showers, this one had a shower cubicle. This is very helpful, because otherwise the bathroom is always totally flooded. Directly when entering the cubicle I realized my mistake. Firstly, the cubicle was not attached to the shower tray, whereas it was skewed and secondly, it was not possible to close the door completely. Gosh! Flooding again. Much worse was the fact, that the temperature of the small jet of water was only adjustable between burning hot and freezing cold. Finally wet I had to realize, that my shampoo and lotion were frozen, as they have been stored behind the back seat during the last part of the track. While getting out of the shower, I carelessly grabbed the towel bar which broke out of the wall and dashed to pieces. Finally, I left the bathroom dry, clean, and happy.
Another small misfortune was happening to me a little later. We had the opportunity to clean our dirty clothes in a washing machine. Kaspar looked after it and was astonishing quickly finished with washed but wet laundry. The washing time could not have been more than 20 minutes. The heating was not - as usual in Russia - preset to sauna temperature. I intended to change that with a red rotary knob, keeping in mind that normally the heating in Russia are working on full power - the room temperature is only adjusted by opening the windows.
The existence of a red rotary knob should have made me hesitate, but as more or less greenhorn in this area I courageously turned it up. The opening of the fairly big air relief valve resulted in a reasonably amount of really brown mud on the relatively new painted wall. I was totally puzzled, that I closed the valve even after estimated 3 seconds. I was able to clean the wall and left the slop in the room corner as it was. The damage was kept to a limit.
Afterwards we had a quite nice evening in our little kitchen. The lady at the reception made a warm dinner for us with food that we bought for that occasion. Two beers and the warm meal later I was quickly so tired that it was hard for me not to fell asleep at the table. Kaspar and I (as oldest members) have been allowed to share the bed, the others were sleeping on the floor in their sleeping bags. Unfortunately, there was only one blanket for us both, what makes me decide to make my own blanket out of two bedcovers. At the beginning that worked perfectly well as I fell asleep right away, but in the middle of the night I woke up, because I was freezing. After a hard struggle against the well-known inner temptation, I put on my sweater, was continuously freezing at my legs, and had a barely good sleep.
All in all, I was happy to experience civilization again, and about the opportunity to have a shower and sleep in a bed.

Sudz
02-14-2009, 11:29 AM
February 04, 2009:

We were served with the best specialties from Jakutsk, like intestines of young horses and other treats.

a treat? if you say so..:smt080

Sudz
02-15-2009, 12:27 AM
hey BlueGerbil, is there a reason why you guys aren't running this expedition during the summer months?

Gb02WJ
02-15-2009, 12:01 PM
"Timing: In order not to leave any tire tracks, the tour will take place in winter. The vehicles will only cross meter deep snow and ice as well as deep-frozen soil, known as permafrost."

Frogger
02-15-2009, 04:30 PM
One of the biggest reasons for this happening now instead of the summer is it will be pretty hard to drive across the Bering Straight in the summer time. This is the closest the continents Asia and America are to each other. It's easier to drive on ice then water......

I don't think I would be man enough to do something like this. All I have to say is WoW! You guys are taking extreme wheeling to a new level. Good luck and God speed on the rest of the journey.

Lindley

Sudz
02-15-2009, 05:53 PM
One of the biggest reasons for this happening now instead of the summer is it will be pretty hard to drive across the Bering Straight in the summer time.
:smt017

i highly doubt anyone is driving across the bering strait unless we have another ice age

float? yes - drive across on ice? no

prove me wrong

Sudz
02-15-2009, 05:56 PM
"Timing: In order not to leave any tire tracks, the tour will take place in winter. The vehicles will only cross meter deep snow and ice as well as deep-frozen soil, known as permafrost."
International Tread Lightly :smt023

BlueGerbil
02-25-2009, 04:34 PM
February 11, 2009: (2)

There was no time where we didn’t receive hospitality and helpfulness from the Russian population. It will be very difficult up to impossible without those friendly Russian helpers. You suddenly need a special tool, welding equipment, a lathe, a garage or whatsoever. At this point we want to say thank you again to everybody who we were glad to meet and who helped the expedition team directly or indirectly - we are really grateful.

The next evening we continued our journey with a 380 km long and stressful drive on the Kolymar River. This mogul piste covered with ice holes - a result of air blisters which have been crushed by passing trucks – was a challenge. Numerous times the tires broke through, into little razor-sharp ice caps and we drove through them, ran over stones and trunks etc. That we did not have any tire damages so far, neither with our PNY-Jeeps nor with the trailers, encourages my opinion that we definitely have the best off road tire in the world with us on that expedition - The Goodyear Wrangler MT/R.

It took us 16 hours for this nonstop driving in -50° C - where we crossed the arctic circle as well - until we finally and totally exhausted reached Schritnikolimsk, a little village in the middle of nowhere. Within minutes after our arrival we were welcomed by townsfolk and journalists. It is a really nice little village built out of wood on the bank of the Kolymar River. It is clean and the tiny little houses are mostly beautifully presented. That this tiny village – where they have winter nine month a year – even has town privileges results from the time of Katharina II as we heard.

Due to the extreme winter tracks that demands everything from us and the PNY-Jeeps we have to stop every couple 100 km for checks and repairs. Luckily we once more had a little garage with a temperature of around 0°C, where we were able to do the necessary work.

If anyone asks about the tracks we are driving, there is only one thing to say: Every ordinary off road vehicle would already have failed at the slope angle without e.g. a broken bumper etc. You can hardly explain how destructive those tracks are. Thousand of holes and bumps, high ripples, trunks and branches, steeply up and down rides in riverbeds and much more while we are additionally dragging the trailers behind us. Everybody knows, that this is not possible until the end without any damages. We just did not know when the first big problem would occur. Of course it was possible any time near under these conditions and then - tonight - it happened. It happened in a narrow pass around 50 km after Schritnikolimsk. High taluses with a height of up to 1m left and right, so narrow that only one PNY-Jeep at a time was able to drive through the way which was covered with high ripples and fractures. We tried to drag our trailers – driving in first gear with gear reduction - as I saw my trailer through the rear-view mirror with the front pointing to the sky. Firstly I thought the trailer coupling broke but that was not the case. It was the frame where a part was broken off. Now we had to improvise very quickly due to the coldness and Ural-trucks waiting behind and in front of us to drive through. We built a kludge out of tension belts and cleared the street within one hour dragging ourselves in the scarp 300 meters further.

After the Ural-trucks passed we had to make a difficult turn in order to drive back slowly towards a small village named Nalimsk which we passed 30 km before. We asked the mayor of that little village where only traditional people from Jakutia live in line with the nature, if he knows somebody who can provide us with welding equipment or maybe directly weld something for us. He told us, that there is only one possibility the next morning and invited us to stay overnight in his mayor room. Ulrich Kaifer, Kaspar Mettler, Marco Schwarzer und Konstantin Savva slept between chairs, flags and tables while I slept in the PNY-Jeep to make sure that the engines ran smoothly in the -50° C cold environment.

The next morning, we received the repair possibility as promised by the mayor. Ivan, an employee of the local coal-fired power plant took us to his place. He had a little transformer to run a welding machine. After he spread furs underneath the trailer and created a frame out of a steel door box he began to weld. It took him the whole day for the repair and the preventive measures – of course outdoor as they do not have any garages there. In the meantime he invited us to tea and cookies even to horsemeat afterwards. Due to the extensive amount on horse intestines in that meat it was not easy for some of our team members to finish the plate off, which the nice mother in law loaded brimful. At around 5 p.m. we were going to leave and when we slowly and carefully drove down the main street of the village more and more children, juveniles and adults showed up. They even waved out of their windows while they were watching us.
We had to stop several times to explain, take pictures or let them sign the PNY-Jeeps. They even baked bread for our 700 km long way to Tscherskie which we will have to drive in walking pace. It just started snowing when we finally left.

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BlueGerbil
02-25-2009, 04:37 PM
February 16, 2009: New short message from the expedition team

Team reached Bilibino after difficult and exaustive track / intense troubles en route / one PNY-Jeep with trailer in snow flurry in the ditch / trailer tumbled down / nevertheless nothing crucial destroyed / no injuries / team in good health / very friendly welcome of all in Bilibino / report follows

BlueGerbil
02-25-2009, 04:41 PM
February 19, 2009: (1)

It was a tough section to Bilibino with many obstacles. But finally, we made it.

The team is in Bilibino, just like the vehicles and trailer.
Crazy things happened to us on our way behind Shishmaref. F1 had and has no engine power; we had to deal with frozen brakes in Tscherski; we received the news that we were not allowed to enter Tschukotka; Trailer2 lost a complete wheel including brake drum, etc.; wheels on both trailers were blocked by ice and the entire F1 along with its trailer skidded into a ditch.

One step after another:
The tension was huge when we continuously became slower and finally – due to the performance problems of F1 and the resulting additional consumption – had to refuel just 5 kilometers before the city. I was about to explode when I also received the news from Jürgen Graf that we have to stop in Tscherski and will not be allowed to enter Tschukotka - We did not receive the special permission. I was totally mad – what happened? Hastily I called Jürgen and got the information that the authorities did not receive the necessary insurance forms and thus correctly denied our permit. Unfortunately, this had to happen just 40 kilometers before the territory border. We owe the same night's receipt of the permit to people, authorities and institutions that trusted us. Many thanks to all involved people and authorities at this point (when – according to our GPS – reaching the “border to Tschukotka” the next evening, we celebrated and cherished the crossing).

With only 1000 1/min of F1 in gear reduction, we reached Tscherski where the police was already waiting for us. They were expecting us for a long time and were happy to welcome us in sound condition. After the obligatory control and after reporting our expedition to the ones in charge, we were led to a warm garage. There, the team checked and repaired for quite some time, before exhaustedly falling asleep on the seats in the garage. The plan was to sleep for about 2 hours only and get up at 4 a.m. to drive towards Bilibino. However, we were woken up by the first workers at around 10 a.m.

We were hoping that the performance problems of F1 were due to frozen water from the auxiliary tanks. Unfortunately this was not the case. Thus I decided to continue our slow driving without performance on our upcoming – 380 kilometers long – section towards Tschukotka. Just when we were about to leave Tscherski and attached the trailer, we noticed that my brakes at Trailer 1 were frozen. Therefore we had to unfreeze them with Russian burner lamps*. What a nice work at -50° C. At that time, we did not know that we would have to do it again on this section.

Just out of Tscherski, in the middle of the Kolymar, we found the truck in an accident. It broke into the ice only 10 days ago, even though it was driving on the main lane. Crazy. Fortunately there was another truck that took care of the two wet drivers, who were able to save themselves out of the driver’s cab in the last second. Otherwise they would have frozen to death within minutes.

*) Burner lamps are irreplacable for all acrtic truckers. They burn fuel - in our case also ethanol - in adjustable fire beam which are pointed at the frozen parts. This way it is possible to unfreeze e.g. the oil pan, the gearbox, the axles, the brakes.




February 19, 2009: (2)

Then, the course of the road led us north-east on the Kolymar River and one of its channels for many kilometers. The temperatures were below -50°C when during a pee stop at some point during the night we noticed that a wheel including rim, tire, brake drum and spacer was missing on Kaspar’s trailer (T2).

The route has become a narrow trail about 100 kilometers ago and is difficult to drive. Taking into consideration that the wheel could have been lost anywhere and because there would be no chance to find it at night, we decided to continue our drive on three wheels (that’s what we will do on our upcoming 380 kilometers long section from Bilibino to Pevek as well. In Pevek we expect to receive the necessary spare parts).

It would be better not to stop in this cold atmosphere and the additional occuring wind. The reason why we had to stay for about another 3 hours at this place was due to the fact that when Kaspar was ready to go I noticed two blocked wheels at T2. The breaks were frozen. In order to continue driving without the risk that this would happen again (this was probably also the reason for the loss of the other wheel), without further ado we disabled the brake function of T2 by disassembling the break leverage and removing the brake shoe from the blocked wheels in a tough repair action (key word: burner lamps) on the winter road (later on in Bilibino we removed
each and every part that somehow was a part of the break from T1 and T2).

During the following drive was dedicated to the mistake-diagnosis of F1. We used the diagnosis computer to check all parameters, perform tests and compare data of both vehicles in drive operation. I was just sitting in F2 and evaluated information with Kaspar, when the next obstacle on this rocky way to Bilibino was announced via radio: "Matthias, Sh**, I got stuck." In heavy snow flurry, F1 and its trailer went astray and skidded into a ditch. Thereby, the trailer tipped over and turned on its side. Now it was time to stop thinking and sort things out. We had to retrieve both vehicles as soon as possible. First we detached the trailer from the vehicle and put it back on its wheels by using our winches. Then we pulled it on the street with our Warn winches and idler pulleys. It was a little bit more difficult to retrieve F1 because it was stuck deep in snow and because of the strong inclined position that caused the engine to turn off. We had to recover it first. Then we also pulled this vehicle from the ditch with our Warn winches and idler pulley. It was a great performance of our winches, the team had to admit.

After another 20 kilometers we finally reached Bilibino. Once again we were surprised by the things waiting for us there.



February 19, 2009: (3)

We did not know what to expect in Bilibino. Will we have an accommodation, perhaps a small hotel, a garage? How will the authorities react when we arrive? What will we manage to complete?

We were slowly approaching the city. It is located in a wind still area surrounded by high mountains. Arriving from a snowy pass and after entering the main street we have directly been checked by the traffic police. The officers were very friendly and gave us some additional information. Konstantin already informed his contacts without giving me notice. As the success was not sure he did not tell anything and therefore he and we have all been very happy. Everything was perfectly organized.

We have been expected by friends of Konstantin and the mining company Kupogold. We were welcomed and accommodated in clean, perfectly equipped apartments with shower, toilette, washing machine, etc., which are normally used for company employees who make a stopover on their way to the goldmine which is about 200 km away. Moreover, we were integrated in the daily operation and got breakfast, lunch and dinner. They even did our laundry. It is really great. Many thanks to the management of Kupolgold at this point. Also the garage was organized by Konstantin's contacts. There was enough space for us to store the vehicles and trailers in the warmth - a seldom situation. The highlight was an arriving team of mechanics who worked with us.

Altogether we were eleven people starting with the next big modification mission of the Jeeps and trailers. As the trailers have carried important equipment over the rough track until Bilibino and we now only need less of it, the trailers have been rigorously alleviated and additionally protected against the cold. Additionally we removed the 1000 l tank, removed now unnecessary crates and panels. We already modified the Jeeps with adding the construction for the emergency swimming system (hydraulic adaptors at front and back) and pre-mounted the swimming tires on the trailer tires. That was hand work which means an immense issue of strength and that in total 8 times. Of course there was no balancing. Parallel Marco started to work on the next video clip at his especially equipped cutting place.

Originally planned was to leave for Pevek on Thursday. Unfortunately that was not possible. We received a warning from the Russian disaster control via the German Embassy not to start. They expect a hurricane/snow storm in that region which will be very intense with a speed of about 37 m/s. Accordingly the temperature will drop to -60°C. Luckily we received that message in Bilibino and not en-route. Therefore everything was fine again and our problems had a protection effect, as we would already have been on track and met the storm otherwise. The negative aspect it that all winter ways to Pevek will be gone after the hurricane.

New scheduled starting time will be Saturday.

BlueGerbil
02-25-2009, 04:50 PM
February 22, 2009: 1st short message
Task force started from Bilibino towards Pevek.

February 22, 2009: 2nd short message
We have direct contact to the roadmaker - Due to heavy snowdrift at two passes, the track to Pevek is not usable - even not for the heavy 8x8 trucks. There are already trucks waiting on the side opposite to Bilibino. According to today's news, the roadmaker will start on Sunday to clean the passes. We try to manage to drive in convoy with the bulldozers. Therefore start is postponed to Sunday morning.

February 22, 2009: 3rd short message
We just reached the timber line. The last Asian trees on our way to America. There will be nothing but busches til Alaska.

February 22, 2009: 4th short message
We arrived at the bulldozer clearance team. Due to the fact that it has to clear the winter road for the trucks and often has to move a lot of snow, we passed it as agreed with the driver. There are two Kamaz trucks following the dozer. F1 reduced air pressure to 0.6 bar. Are driving on snow and with 6 mp/h. F2 follows in our tracks.
GPS-coordinates: N 68 17`03" / E 167 17`12"

February 22, 2009: 5th short message
Just arrived at first pass. Many snow drifts. Not too long before us a GAZ truck broke through, therefore deep tracks and stirred up snow. Reached the top after many attempts. Partially steap and inclined.
GPS-coordinates: N 68 15`34" / E 167 36`12"

February 22, 2009: 6th short message
We are between the first and second pass. Snowfall is getting heavier. Take a break for about 4 hours at GPS-coordinates: N 68 36`49" / E 168 26`16" Team and vehicles are doing well.

February 23, 2009: 7th short message (02:23 a.m. MEZ)
No horizon, no shrub, no more outlines visible, everything white, moderate snowfall, only a wooden bar or an old barrel every couple hundred meters to indicate the direction, always passing on the right side, that's what I expected from this area. We covered appr. 185 km in 20 hours since Bilibino.
GPS cords.: N 68 35`55" E 168 58`17"

February 23, 2009: 8th short message (03:10 a.m. MEZ)
Progress slowing down. Intense snowfall, moderate wind, visibility 0-15 m.
GPS-coordinates: N 68 37`24" E 169 14`09"

February 23, 2009: Lucky charms and the start towards Pevek (05:09 a.m. MEZ)

So many people wished us good luck. Either with words, in writing or presented us with lucky charms. Actually, up to now we have not suffered of anything crucial. Perhaps that is due to all the good blessings we received with all those talismans. We have them all on board: Two roses which we received in Berlin from our partner Pacwolf (meanwhile there are only the sticks left), amulets, horseshoes, icons, special bank notes, money coins, personal ball pens, lucky slogans written on the cars, pennants, buttons, badges, stickers and and and.

In Bilibino we received the biggest lucky charm so far: dear horns. With the horns in my hand I was searching for the best place on Jeep or trailer until it came to my mind that the best place for it to be is on top of the trailer. I held the horns in one hand and climbed on it. Laying it on the hydraulic extension in order to search for the best place to attach them, I realized that the main safety belts of the heavy iron parts are in correct position, but cut by a metal cant. We could possibly have lost those heavy parts in an inclined position. Unimaginable what amount of work that would have been to put them back on the trailer. So much for working lucky charms.

The hospitality in Bilibino was really immense. We were invited to food and beverage, we were introduced to people who have been important for us, and we received special equipment as well as many tips about the region and the streets. The day before our departure, we have been invited to a celebration of the military offspring by Major Garvasin. It was a special act of trustfulness from this man and we were happy to be his guest. We have been introduced as guests of honor and I was allowed to hold a short speech. Many thanks at this point for the trustfulness.

We left until the city border in a convoy after saying good-bye to our friendly mechanics Konstantin, Maxim, Alexey, Ingor, Ignat, Slava and his son as well as the major Garvasin and Vadim, the boss of the ministry of catastrophe protection (MCS). Many cars joined us for accompany, passing waving children and greeting grown-ups, all the time behind the bulldozers.
Bilibino and its people have been really friendly.

After even the last supporting car turned-over we were all alone again and optimally prepared for the most difficult winter track due to weather conditions so far: 380 km from Bilibino to Pevek.

February 23, 2009: 9th short message (06:04 a.m. MEZ)
We crossed the second pass and left the emergency accommodation behind us. After an eating break we are now on the "road" again with heavy storm and snow flurry. Speed appr. 5-10 km/h.
GPS cords: N 68 40`19" / E 169 22`37

February 23, 2009: 10th short message (07:15 a.m. MEZ)
Just now we reached the arctic ocean (outstanding!!) after struggling with the snow and heavy snow drifts with a visibility of 5-10 m.
GPS cords: N 68 45`32" / E 169 41`53"

February 23, 2009: 11th short message (10:55 a.m. MEZ)
We arrived at base camp kupol gold. This partner promised to rescue us in case of an emergency or breakdown on the last 160 km to Pevek. We just started for the last kilometers to Pevek.
GPS cords.: N 68 46`45" / E 170 07`33"

February 23, 2009: 12th short message (02:36 p.m. MEZ)
Difficult and extreme track. We have to bash into snow drifts in full speed from time to time in order to come through them. In between deep snow and old snow blurred tracks vom Urals or Kamaz trucks in which we suddenly broke into. All of that at night with snow flurries. Since leaving the base camp we approx. covered 95 km.
GPS cords: N 69 25`22" / E 170 47`03"

February 23, 2009: 13th short message (05:00 p.m. MEZ)
Team is in good health but tired approx. 50 km before Pevek. Time for rest.
GPS Cords: N 69 28`29" E 170 46`47"

February 24, 2009: 14th short message (05:26 a.m. MEZ)
We slept at the high plateau, and just started again. Behind us, two trucks got stuck at an inclination. In front us a convoy of 6 trucks got stuck in the deep snow of the high plateau. We reduced the air pressure of the tires once more. We reduced the air pressure several times. We crossed the truck onto the snow with 0.3 and 0.5 bar. Leaving the trucks behind we reached the road service at the GPS cords: N 69 30`32" / E 170 46`22". They are currently cleaning the track after the blizzard

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Sudz
02-25-2009, 09:13 PM
February 24, 2009: 14th short message (05:26 a.m. MEZ)
We slept at the high plateau, and just started again....

....Leaving the trucks behind we reached the road service at the GPS cords: N 69 30`32" / E 170 46`22". They are currently cleaning the track after the blizzard

mapped :smt026
N 69 30`32" / E 170 46`22" (http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=N+69+30%6032%22+%2F+E+170+46%6022%22&sll=69.534518,169.541016&sspn=23.297371,70.3125&ie=UTF8&ll=65.58572,-171.298828&spn=27.3929,70.3125&z=4)

BlueGerbil
02-28-2009, 05:39 AM
February 25, 2009: 15th short message (10:13 p.m. MEZ)
Equipped with 850l fuel/bioethanol-mixture in each car and food for 10 days we just started towards Egvekinot. Appr. 900 km are ahead of us.
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BlueGerbil
03-04-2009, 02:32 PM
February 26, 2009: 16th short message (08:53 a.m. MEZ)
Fantastic weather due to ridge of high pressure. Amazingly beautiful landscape. An impressive arctic desert. 2 hours ago we arrived at the gold minig city Komsomolsk. About 200 very friendly people of a mining company are still living there. Anton Iwanowitsch Jukna, the manager, invited us for a meal, organized fuel 500 km away for us to produce the next fuel/bio-ethanol mixture and informed us about the road conditions on the upcoming 500 km. Thank you very much.
Due to corresponding reports and statements, we expect another low-pressure system with lots of snow during the next days, that we have to pass. We are curious to find out when we will be able to start.
GPS-cords: N 69 05´47“ / E 172 49´18“

February 26, 2009: 17th short message (02:58 p.m. MEZ)
Had to stop. Extremely tough section, huge snowdrifts, snowfall and strong wind. We were able to get through some of them. Others were just too high. It took us 5 hours to manage 14 km. Within minutes our own traces disappeared. It’s crazy to see that sometimes within 5 minutes, 30-40 cm high drifts are back again. For safety reasons we returned to a nearby mine and will try to get through again tomorrow. Team alright but tired.
GPS-cords: N 68 58´25“ / E 173 41‘47“


February 27, 2009: 18th short message (02:14 a.m. MEZ)
Even more snow and strong wind. In more detail: I drive in the lead with F1, Kaspar is appr. 15m behind me (the length of one of our jeeps with trailer). He can hardly see my tracks which I left in the snow 30s before. We move forward with 0-5 km/h and air pressure of 0.4 bar. Even now we met three water trucks of the mine. They got stuck and were not able to reach the standpipe of the mine at that day - probably the very place where we have been yesterday.
GPS cords: N 68 51´56" / E 173 43´40"

February 27, 2009: 19th short message (11:19 a.m. MEZ)
A really hard fight. We started today at 10 a.m. after a coordination about the way together with the mining company. Afterwards it took us 9 hours, whereas 7 hours at one point (uphill, inclination to the right and gradient to the right for a rollover). We pulled out all the stops at this inclination where we additionally faced 3 huge snowdrifts (2-3m high and 40 to 100m long). We dismounted the trailers, put on fourfold tires and everyone helped to get rid of the snow, but then we decided for a 1-2 day long break and to wait for the road service in order to safe our equipment for parts where nobody will help us. As the snow drifts are built within shortest time periods, there was also the danger that a vehicle and trailer could get stuck in between two of them. There would be no more chance. We just set up an emergency camp on a little ledge above an flank of the hill (trailer as wind protection, cloth on top of the cars as tent) when the road service arrived, accompanied by the three water trucks. As the mine necessarily needs water, they had to drive once more. In lightning speed we cancelled everything and followed them. They are appr. 15 min in front of us.
GPS cords: N 68 44`13" / E 173 50`17"


February 27, 2009: 20th short message (01:16 p.m. MEZ)
Difficult hill incident with continuous winching action directly followed after the formerly mentioned circumstances at the inclination. From time to time we have to pull the trailers, the cars, or even both out of deep snow. If we would not be so well equipped (Warn winches at front and rear), the expedition would have to be cancelled at several points so far. After great efforts we reached a small weather station. We are safe, team is well and happy to manage the way so far. We are currently 250km behind Pevek. Vehicles suffered, Several fenders ragged or damaged, safety belts cracked.
GPS Cords: N 68 31`27" / E 174 08`38"


February 27, 2009: 21st short message (03:35 p.m MEZ)
We just saw the aurora borealis for the first time on the expedition. It looks like god made the sky burn in green flames. Amazing to see.


February 28, 2009: 22nd short message (03:16 a.m. MEZ)
We are already driving since 700 km with 0.4 - 0.6 bar with the Wrangler MT/R. Average speed 5-25 km/h. Vehicle weight appr. 3.5 t plus trailer. No damage or weakening at all. Current position in a narrow valley after the weather station. Advancement is good.


February 28, 2009: 23rd short message (08:00 a.m. MEZ)
I lost my chassis snow protection while breaking through a big snow drift. We just finished a 5 hour repairing period. Naff. We continue at starting snowfall. Team strained. Vehicles ready for use.
GPS cords: N 68 22´51" / E 174 58`12"


February 28, 2009: 24th short message (04:01 p.m. MEZ)
We struggeld through most dense snow flurry, kilometer after kilometer. So far, we were not able to stop, otherwise we would be totally covered in snow by tomorrow morning. We tried to reach the emergency shelter appr. 200km away from the weather station, without success. The snow drifts are too intense. We just shoveled ourselves through an inclination which took us two hours. Now the team is sleeping and I try to break through snow flurries with F1 without trailer in order not get totally covered in snow. Air pressure 0.2 bar. fuel reserve ok, food ok, team/vehicles ok.
GPS cords: N 67 52´45" / E 176 05´46"


March 01, 2009: 25th short message (02:19 a.m. MEZ)
After four hours of sleep, we had a lot of drudgery at the next difficult inclinations. We are currently appr. 500m away from the pass summit, shoveling and winching for hours. The only possible way: trying to bring F1 backwards on top, if successful trace breaking, then T1 upwards, then F1 back to protext F2 + trailer or upward winching...
News obsolete before sending: together with both cars and trailers we just reached the first pass summit! The Pacific Ocean watershed!
GPS cords: N 67 52´23" / E 176 05´51"


March 01, 2009: 26th short message (06:08 a.m. MEZ)
We crossed the second mountain pass. We are currently in front of the third pass. Weather cleared off and exactly as predicted by the German Weather Service, we had a short influence of a high pressure area on our driving route today. More precisely, that means sunshine again after a long time. We still have not reached the emergency shelter.
GPS cords: N 67 40´11" / E 176 39´53"


March 01, 2009: 27th short message (10:18 a.m. MEZ)
We reached the emergency shelter 30 km before the third mountain pass, where a bulldozer is positioned. We had to debate how to go on. The pass is totally covered in snow. "No chance to come through" said the dozer driver. He cleaned the pass this morning with a snow height of more than 5m, but directly after him, due to a strong wind, everything was covered in snow again. The remaining fuel is just enough to keep the dozer running, but no chance to clean the pass again. Next fuel delivery is arriving in appr. 5 days time. Shi***.
The two men living here in loneliness were really friendly. We received warm food and exchanged information. Two trucks, who left some days before us, containing 20 people in total, have still not reached Valonisti (mine appr. 170km in direction of Egvekinot from this emergency shelter). They try to find out where they are. A commision who started from Egvekinot in direction of Pevek also got stuck appr. 250km away from here with no possibility to move on. We will stay the night here and try to reach the mountain pass tomorrow. Then we will see what is possible or not. Worst case would be, that we have to wait here due to the storms.
This area is really amazing. Gigantic widths, partially snow drifts in a height of houses.
Otherwise: Team exhausted but in good health, fuel reserve 500 liters plus two half-full main tanks, food reserve ok, vehicles also ok although I had a hard impact on F1 today when I slipped into a rift in a snow drift.
GPS cords: N 67 29´57" / E 176 41´49"


March 02, 2009: 28th short message (00:09 a.m. MEZ)
The team of the emergency shelter had radio contact to Valonisti this morning. Yesterday evening the contact permanently broke off. We heard that a rescue team is on the way to the two trucks which got stuck in the snow ahead of us. The rescue team left at 4 a.m. this morning and managed 30 km in 5 hours.
We leave now to take the chance. There is a rescue team nearby if we do not succeed. There are 170km ahead of us until we reach Valonisti. During the radio contact we were requested to contact the rescue team via satellite phone when we reach the people in the snow earlier in order to get an impression of their condition.


March 02, 2009: 29th short message (06:37 a.m. MEZ)
After 6.5 hours of shoveling and winching, we just reached the pass summit (19km away from the emergency shelter) of the so-called third pass to Pevek. Awesome!
An unbelievable beautiful panorama up here! The tracks of the dozer were covered in snow. Only the deep tunnels (app. 3-4m meters) that it dug were visible. Air pressure F1 rear and front was 0.2 bar. Temperature appr. -35°C. We still have a fuel reserve of 500l plus half a tank left due to our last decanting action. With an inclined F1 we got nearly everything out of both roof tanks and my rear tank.
GPS Cords: N 67 21´07'' / E 176 49´0''


March 02, 2009: 30th short message (03:57 p.m. MEZ)
We just passed the thousandth kilometer of most difficult offrad track, snow, and ice with temperatures never above -20° and minimum -56°C with 0.5 bar air pressure or less with 8 MT/R tires on each vehicle - without any damage!!!! Thanks Goodyear!
We made it to the point, where the trucks must have been covered in snow. The tracks indicate that a Russian chain-driven transportation vehicle reached them first. Appr. 10km further we met the biggest CAT chain-driven vehicle of the world, a D10. Unimaginable dimensions. Even the driver cabin is located 4m above the ground. Pragmatically it pulled a sledge behind, which is a house, a big tank farm, and a snow plow at the same time.
As the D10 has already driven on that track we decided to overtake him like the rescued trucks. We now got stuck in an extremely strong snow storm appr. 25km in front of Valonisti. Not single 1-2m visibility. We just struggled in the "Whiteout" up a last inclination in order to reach a safe position and not to get totally covered in snow masses. There is no way to go further, as the Ural trucks got stuck in front of us, blocking the track. We have to wait for the dozers, which will free the trucks. We have a safe position on the ridge, fuel reserve 320l and 2 half-full tanks, food reserve ok, the storm is blowing that one can hardly stand. One is blown down or tumbling immediately. Unbelievable. Team is exhausted and stiff but we considerably increased our safety. The decision to decamp today turned out to be absolutely correct. In my opinion we took the only chance to reach Valonisti. No chance before and after it.
The storm is raging in such a strong way, that snow is coming through closed doors. We have -24°C, but together with a wind speed of appr. 35-38 km/h it feels like -60°C. Gloves, jackets, caps frozen to stiff in minutes and covered in a thick ice crust. We are standing at that location for about 15 minutes. On my left there is already a snow drift of 50cm height and 3m length.
GPS Cords: N 66 30´33" / E 177 16´45"

BlueGerbil
03-07-2009, 07:55 AM
March 03, 2009: 31st short message (00:49 a.m. MEZ)

The expedition got stuck in an intense snow flurry together with other people. The driver of the D10 tried the whole night to break through the snow masses and gave up at 7 a.m. Even these experienced drivers have seen such a storm only once in their lives. It was and still is unbelievable strong. Now it seems that the wind is only blowing fallen snow around rather than new snow. They came from a mine which is located 20km away and informed us that they cannot tell us how long we have to wait until they try to continue. There is no visibility at all. Everything really everything is white. "White out" is the name of this frightening situation.
There were some unbelievable situations yesterday night. One of them was that the truck bus, in which we assumed 20 people, was left behind. We do not know if there were people in it. It was not able to rescue it out of the snow masses. Another 8x8 truck was pushed out of the snow. In order to cross the huge snow crater which it left with this action, the D10 drove a loop through the deep snow. There, he also towed his sledge and behind of it a Ural truck 6x6, which fell onto its left side. I was running, falling, and crawling forward through the channel in order to literally feel by touching if we could manage to come through. Luckily the broad sledge of the snow clean dozer made so much space on the right side, that our vehicles were falling in the channel, which was the fatality for the Ural truck. As we totally strained tried to follow the cat - which was only possible in gear reduction and in first or second gear, our engines suddenly became hot. During the storm we opened the bonnet and realized that the engine compartment - although especially isolated from all sides - was totally covered in ice. As through our doors, the storm pushed into the engine compartment. The accumulated ice was responsible for our frozen electronic fans. We continued in order not to lose contact to the Cat, always on the edge to the red area. Currently my fan is working again, in contrast to the one from F2. That's just about the limit.
Current position: estimated 4-6 km behind the last position in direction towards Valonisti. Total amount of people locked in at this point: 10 in 5 vehicles, no injured ones or similar, fuel reserve of the Jeeps in total 320 l, food reserve of Extrem Events team for 7-8 days, existing communication with the mine which is 20km away through the Cat driver, existing satellite communication to head office through own system.

GPS Cords: N 66 29´20" / E 177 23´13"


March 03, 2009: 32nd short message (08:23 a.m. MEZ)

Still no progess. No movement for the last 12 hours. Force of storm has increased once more. We needed to refuel. Therefore we have 2 full main tanks appr. 200 l reserve at the moment, which means one additional refueling of the main tanks + rest for driving. Enough fuel for 96 hours, food reserve ok, beverage is getting scarce. We are melting snow. We just built an emergency tent out of Russian canvas, which we brought with us for worst cases. We mounted it over the vehicle bonnets as there is more and more snow getting into the engine compartment and passenger cabin.


March 03, 2009: 33rd short message (12:01 p.m. MEZ)

The fuel reserve of the bulldozer is getting scarce. The dozer team decided to decamp. After 20 hours of stagnation we started again. F2 is permanently getting hot due to the damaged fan. We removed the isolation at the radiator grill, but it will be difficult to manage the pass like that.


March 03, 2009: 34th short message (05:45 p.m. MEZ)

We made it. We reached the mine of Valonisti. The small community, built due to the situation of being stuck in the snow just started to prepare for difficult days (food was gathered und divided, we provided the pot/the men of the other team melted snow, we cooked together, and so on) as it was already disbanded again. We respectfully bid farewell keeping in mind that everyone managed this situation very good. We covered the last 18 km which separated us from civilization in 9 hours. Meter after meter. 2m forwards = clearing of 1-2m snow height... sometimes the CAT crawls that deep into the snow that his roof was totally covered. I pulled Kaspars Jeep and trailer with F1 and trailer over appr. Half the distance. The rest of the track he tried to manage it on his own somehow, every time marginal below the red area. He is a really good and reasonable driver. Luckily, the weather has meanwhile also improved a little bit. It is still windy, but comparably weak with moderate snowfall. We are looking forward to a shower now after 6 exhausting days and nights in the car.

GPS cords: N 66 24´55" / E 177 34´59"


March 05, 2009: 35th short message (00:54 a.m. MEZ)

We are currently trying to fix Kaspar's fan. No continuation without fan. I am not able to tow F2 and trailer for hundreds of kms. We fixed everything on the vehicles so far. Due to the damages of the storm (removed all the ice out of the engine compartments, fans, induction pipes and so on) we hope to start over again today.


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JordanA
03-07-2009, 12:54 PM
This is great.

Matt
03-07-2009, 01:24 PM
Cool little thing, I wonder if it floats too.

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BlueGerbil
03-14-2009, 07:15 AM
March 05, 2009: 36th short message (11:57 a.m. MEZ)

Trapped between mountains

It is really stressful. On the one hand we are trying hard to find and modify a 12v fan engine, one the other hand the weather conditions appr. 30km outside of the mine are such extreme, that we are not able to continue. A convoy consisting out of 2 D10 bulldozer, one chain-driven vehicle in front and 7 trucks, which is on its way to the mine of Ewekinot, is trapped in snow masses since several days. Nobody knows where they are. They assume them to be appr. 32km away from Valonisti in valley in front of the dreaded pass. There is no radio contact with the trapped people and no dozers are starting due to safety reasons. It is simply not possible. Even a scout car which intented to start today came back. Sh**.



March 06, 2009: 37th short message (05:05 a.m. MEZ)

Engine fan is working. We built one by our own out of several Jeep and non-Jeep parts as well as Russian wrapping technique. It is spinning in the wrong direction but that doesn't matter. Main point is a non overheating vehicle and that we can continue our journey with F2. We will see if it provides the same performance with full load and trailer.

Furthermore, more or less catastrophic circumstances. Snowfall and winds are hardly weakening. We are not able to leave. Got stuck. A second convoy from the direction of Pevek also got stuck somewhere between 50 to 150km away from here. That means there are 12 trucks, 3 crawlers and 1 chain-driven scout vehicle with 30 people in total have to wait for improvement in the weather somewhere in the wilderness.

In terms of the situation, we currently have double risk. Insufficient fuel and too extreme track. We currently have 600l prepared fuel mixture. Normally that would perfectly be enough for the 300km to Egvekinot. But as we assume to be trapped in snow again, that could become scarce. Therefore we decided to wait for one of the convoys. If the one from Pevek is arriving first, we will refuel another 400l and start on our way. Then there would still be the risk of being trapped in the snow, but we are able to wait in warmth. If the convoy from Egvekinot is arriving first, we will start with the fuel reserve we have right now. As crossing of the pass must be possible, that reserve should be sufficient. Either way, we have to leave here. It is really blatant. The men told us, that last year was hardly any snow in whole Tschukotka. This year there are really huge amounts of snow masses - even for experienced ones.



March 07, 2009: 38th short message (10:32 a.m. MEZ)

We started and try to reach Egvekinot.

We already wanted to decamp yesterday, but after a scouting at the first mountain with a chain-driven vehicle we realized that there was no chance. Today morning at 10 a.m., we noticed the first D10 bulldozer arriving at the mine. We were told, that 2 out of 3 bulldozer left the convoy appr. 35km away in front of Valonisti, due to insufficient fuel for another night. We started immediately in order to use the brand-new cleaned track. Now after 10 hours of driving we are appr. 45km away from the mine. The snow masses are unbelievable stirred. The trucks broke more than 1.5m deep into the snow surface. Extraordinary hard work for us to come through.

Team in good health, vehicles ok, fuel reserve low - only 350l left. We turn down the engines at every stop, heating with the Webasto Air-Tops as they only need a maximum of 0.5l per hour. Outside temperature appr. -30°. Food reserve for appr. 6 days. We have to escape here. It is really a fight against time and a decreasing fuel reserve.

GPS Cords: N 66 39`22" / E 178 19`16"


March 08, 2009: 39th short message (07:14 a.m. MEZ)

We thank all Russian friends who we were able to meet in the mine and who helped us wherever possible. Starting with the possibility to sleep in the rooms of the workers, further the donation of the last available 300l fuel in the mine (it was from the vehicle of the director!), further the ladies who stitched our tattered clothes and so on and so on...
Nevertheless it was time to continue. We had to leave this white mountain area as fast as possible, which kept us in a gilded cage in this gorgeous region in the snow.

It was a struggle against time and decreasing fuel reserve until we reached the roadcamp 20 hours after our start from Valonisti. Due to the fact that we received the warning from the German Weather Service, that a strong-wind-area (hurricane) will hit us (Sunday 12 p.m.), we had a time frame of 24 hours to escape there. That means continuous winching, driving, and shoveling from yesterday 12 p.m. until today morning at 8 a.m. Fast driving in order to reach the destination before the storm meant a higher fuel consumption, slower driving meant led to a decreasing time limit. Basically we had the rule: We have to escape, the show must go on.
And we succeeded. We reached the camp (app. 100km in front of Egvekinot) with the beginning of the increasing wind intensity. We should not have arrived any 2-3 hours later as there is such a storm right now again, that you cannot see your hand in front of your face. If we would not have managed it, all tracks of the convoy would have been gone and we would have been trapped to wait another week in the mountains.

We decided to wait here until the storm is over and to prepare the vehicles and trailers for the upcoming last 1000km on Russian ground. We were kindly offered two small rooms with bed in the camp and given the possibility to use the big garage of the cleaning dozers.

On our way towards Egvekinot, we also crossed the 180th degree of longitude! Now we are in the West and GPW-wise everything is the other way round.

GPS cords: N 67 01`21" / W 178 56`00"



March 11, 2009: 40th short message (09:25 p.m. MEZ)

After an unsuccessful try to reach Egvekinot starting from the roadcamp yesterday (we had to cancel due to the heavy snow storm), we managed it tonight. We just arrived.

GPS cords: N 66 21`10" / W 179 07`00"



http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/9ed76e8a3d2a9882e2cb9865f6c46956.jpg

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/0fdba582148f2fd788365529c169c40b.jpg

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/1bd3090e6df62bba03be88f68df7f86f.jpg

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/bdf4d41809abb3d79e0ff2d7ca2ffe83.jpg

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/23547aef53e4d167d079bc95d1095889.jpg

BlueGerbil
03-22-2009, 05:43 AM
March 13, 2009: 41st short message (03:48 a.m. MEZ)

After some administrative tasks and the last refueling in Russia (enough for 2700l of bioethanol mixture) we returned to the road department yesterday. Just now we left this camp near Amguema and try to reach the village of Vacarem at the Arctic Ocean which is appr. 200km away


March 13, 2009: 42nd short message (10:06 a.m. MEZ)

Big setback / again heavy damage. Again a broken accessory differential. The manufacturer says they seem to be too weak for the expedition vehicles. Stronger ones should have been used. We were standing for hours somewhere in the deep snow and tried to get F2 ready. F2, the vehicle which was already modified with a totally new accessory differential out of F3. Currently we try to reach the road camp again with a rough-and-ready fixed vehicle. F1 is towing both trailers. That's really a damn bad situation. I am totally upset. The third rear-axle differential within 5000km. We will try to repair it as I brought spare differentials for a huge amount of money with me on my return flight to Russia - in wise foresight and with support of the differential manufacturer.
The worst thing is that we lost minimum two days of optimal weather conditions again. What a crap.


March 13, 2009: 43rd short message (01:14 p.m. MEZ)

Just now we drove the 1600th km with the Goodyear Wrangler MT/R on both vehicles with an air pressure not above 0.5 bar without any damage. Additionally there was no tire damage at any vehicle or trailer since Paris. That means 26123 harmless kilometers under toughest expedition conditions.


March 13, 2009: 44th short message (01:48 p.m. MEZ)

We reached the roadcamp after 6.5 hours of driving. The situation with the differential is really such annoying that the nerves of team were all on edge. To make matters worse, all drivers are on the winter ways and the house was locked. We are standing in front of the door, but ok. Outside temperature: -32°C. We are only running the good Webastos to save fuel which is already reduced due to the damage. We hope that there is anyone coming back tomorrow, that we can enter the garage. Otherwise we will change the differential in front of the door.


March 14, 2009: 45th short message (11:40 p.m. MEZ)

We changed the differential under most difficult conditions and just started over again - 42 hours after the breakdown. We kept on repairing and hardly slept. We hope to reach Vacarem at the Artic Ocean. Weather conditions perfect. Appr. -30°C and sunshine.

GPS cords: N 67 16`57" / W 178 39`22"


March 15, 2009: 46th short message (09:54 a.m. MEZ)

We are struggling for every further kilometer in direction of Vancarem. Currently we are appr. 55km in front of the village. So far, we needed 13 hours for 130km. Since the last mine, which was located appr. 90 km behind the roadcamp, there is nothing but a small slope, made by a chain-driven vehicle. The vehicles manage the situation very good, although we have to shovel and break the track over and over again. Weather is excellent. Nearly no wind and starlit. We are only running on air pressure of 0.1 (front) and 0.2 (rear) any more.

GPS cords: N 67 40`00" / W 176 50`59"


March 15, 2009: 47th short message (03:04 p.m. MEZ)

We did it. We reached Vacarem at the Arctic Ocean, which is inhabited by Chukchi people, after shoveling, track scouting, deflating, winching and so on. Temperature appr. -30°C, storm force 4, light snow fall. Team in good health, fuel reserve ok. Now we are resting. Together with local people we will tomorrow discuss the opportunity to reach Nuteplement from here. The countdown to the Bering Strait started: Appr. 400km left.

GPS cords: N 67 50`22" / W 175 52`15"

http://www.bildercache.de/bild/20090316-150658-201.jpg

http://www.bildercache.de/bild/20090316-150700-435.jpg

http://www.bildercache.de/bild/20090316-150701-977.jpg

Cody
03-24-2009, 06:56 PM
holy shit

Mtn WJ
03-25-2009, 10:50 PM
If you get a chance can you explain the dual wheel set up? Looks like they are just strapped together but it does not seem likely that would work on its own.

I feel for this group in those conditions. Way to be dedicated to the journey. Big Kudos to all of them.

Spr-T-23
03-26-2009, 07:42 AM
when they come through chicago, i think i am going to drive down and see them

BlueGerbil
03-28-2009, 04:53 AM
March 21, 2009: 48th short message (11:18 p.m. MEZ)

The plan was to decamp at 5 a.m., but due to a delay with the welding repair at F1, it is now 10.30 a.m. Wind is starting to blow. The predicted next storm arriving. Visibility appr. 300m, we eventually have to stay here until the storm is over. The DWD forecasted bad weather until the end of the week.

March 22, 2009: 49th short message (01:59 a.m. MEZ)

Perhaps it is the right time for news I normally do not write, but it reflects our feelings.

Certainly the expedition is currently in a difficult situation. Due to the global economic crisis we have to bare big losses. Exhausted of many technical backlashes and the fight against snow masses (more intense than for a long time), we are mobilizing every possible motivation to stand up against the difficulties. We try to fight with all power and emotion for continuation and hope that history is on our side.

Thanks to all who currently work for us, believe in us and keep their fingers crossed. Thanks to my team in Limburg, explicitly to you, Jürgen for you tremendous amount of good work and invested time.

The upcoming storm is taking our breath. If we do not manage to escape before it arrives, we have to stay here in Vacarem for another week. We try it and decamp. We informed nuteplement, we have left a note to a driver who is on his way to Vacarem. If necessary both can come for help.


March 22, 2009: 50th short message (04:49 a.m. MEZ)

We got stuck in the ice and have to shovel a lot. Currently overheated engine. Fan out of order. Emergency reparation done. After 1 hour warmth again in the vehicle.

THREE kilometers in THREE hours.


March 22, 2009: 51st short message (12:57 p.m. MEZ)

How much effort did we invest and with us so many others, but ...

The "Paris / New York - Transcontinental 2009" - expedition currently came to a stop. Yesterday evening the journey was ended by a heavy hit at F1. We do not know the reason by now, but currently a continuation is impossible with that noise emission.

We are currently located at GPS cords N 67 48`03" / W 175 46`47" onto the Artic Ocean directly at the shore line.

Team is in good health, food reserve for 10 days, fuel reserve 1300l.


March 22, 2009: 52nd short message (09:00 p.m. MEZ)

Salvage operation finished. Team, vehicle and trailer safely reached Vakarem after 26 hours of driving, supported by a chain driven vehicle. Further progress currently in planning.



March 24, 2009: 53rd short message (01:30 a.m. MEZ)

We try to leave Vacarem as soon as possible before the storm starts over again. We fixed F1 rough-and-ready in 12 hours outside night work. Now it is at least movable. We literally try to punch through to Egvekinot by front drive only. Cross fingers for us. 300km of snow drifts without any other vehicle. The last trucks left Vacarem yesterday before the storm, but did not have F1 movable at that time. Food reserve for 10 days, fuel reserve appr. 530l. Team in good health but partly very tired.


March 24, 2009: 54th short message (05:30 a.m. MEZ)

With the storm behind us, we are shoveling towards Egvekinot. 60km in 12 hours with 2/1 rate. 2 meter forward, 1 meter backward in order to take a run-up... and so on...


March 25, 2009: 55th short message (02:07 a.m. MEZ)

What a drudgery. Team to some extent 46 hours awake - reaching personal limits. 24 hours and 100km with "two-step". 2m forward, 1m backward in order to take a run-up. Continuous shoveling due to snow drifts. We just slept some few hours because we necessarily had to leave the deep snow. We did not catch up with the trucks, so we have to struggle on our own. Food reserve 8 days. Fuel reserve 240l plus full main tank. Visibility worsens. Only minutes between sunhine and maximum 10 meters.


March 25, 2009: 56th short message (04:17 a.m. MEZ)

First one-third with front-drive done. We reached a mine after appr. 61 hours and 108 km behind Vacarem. Since hours we are waiting for a truck which tries to reach the mine of Egvekinot. We will decamp when it arrives in order to use the track. Probably today evening.


March 25, 2009: 57th short message (12:55 p.m. MEZ)

The storm is blowing like everything should be destroyed what has been built by humans here around. No chance of decamping. We will wait until the truck leaves the mine. This will probably happen tomorrow at midday.


March 26, 2009: 58th short message (06:39 a.m. MEZ)

Marco and Konstantin on their way to Egvekinot in the truck. Ulli and Matthias try to break through with the Jeep. Meanwhile lost tire and linchpin rear-left. We provisionally blocked and mounted the tire with belts. I am curious how a Wrangler MT/R manages to be pulled over snow, ice and stones in blocked mode. Will it manage 150km?

GPS cords.: N 67 24`47" / W 177 24`01"


March 26, 2009: 59th short message (06:39 a.m. MEZ)

The tire made it, but after 60km the whole thing broke apart again. We used a wooden piece as runner - 90km left.

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/d6750d75fb7ab3fbc7dc989ed7f2129f.jpg

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/de169649c71391ea324160dc938e6ca3.jpg

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/8d2d157a6ebba54fbfd3fe5e2559ea83.jpg

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/437015d152771a73417df5d078918875.jpg

BlueGerbil
03-28-2009, 04:54 AM
If you get a chance can you explain the dual wheel set up?

More traction through a bigger contact pattern.

Gb02WJ
03-28-2009, 09:08 AM
Best of luck to all of you.

Spr-T-23
03-28-2009, 09:37 AM
good god those poor guys

Mtn WJ
03-30-2009, 10:12 AM
More traction through a bigger contact pattern.


I see it now that the second set of tires on the outside do not have a rim. They are just strapped onto the inner set of wheels and tires. Looks like a great idea for the snow. I just could not figure out how well they were secured.

Thanks and be safe out there.

Cody
03-30-2009, 07:00 PM
I can't even imagine that. I'm sure it's almost miserable now, but looking back on this once in a hundred lifetimes journey will be awesome.

We know that a little turbo'd Suzuki won't be breaking this record anytime soon ;D

Be safe out there!

Matt
03-31-2009, 11:27 AM
Way to press on, simply amazing.

Sudz
04-02-2009, 09:09 PM
:smt017

i highly doubt anyone is driving across the bering strait unless we have another ice age

float? yes - drive across on ice? no

Matthias, you’re a crazy bastard!

Keep forging ahead bruv, the weather should be breaking soon...

http://www.simona.de/en/service/news/extreme-event.html

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c364/-Sudz/expedition-float1.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c364/-Sudz/expedition-float2.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c364/-Sudz/expedition-float3.jpg

BlueGerbil
04-05-2009, 06:59 AM
March 26, 2009: 60th short message (11:50 p.m. MEZ)
In the last night, we reached Egvekinot with front drive and a missing back wheel. It was an amazing "strange handicap run".
We met two Ural truck drivers on the way, who stayed and helped us. One of them let me cut of his dirt trap of one the wheels in order to build a sledge surface under the wheel, the other gave me his fender and some wood to attach it. At another spot one organized a damaged wheel out of thin air in order to bond it below the axis. Many thanks to you two super truckers.
Now there is the task to quickly organize spare parts for both vehicles. Juergen Graf and his team is busy working on it and they try to make everything possible. I hope we will manage it in short time. Together with the team I am currently working on further solutions. We have still a maximum of 8 weeks left to reach Uelen. After that, snow and ice will melt and it would be impossible.


April 02, 2009: New video clip


Dear partners, friends, and fans,
The expedition is currently still in Egvekinot, and the expedition team as well as the employees from Limburg/Germany and all involved helpers are working with full pressure on necessary reparations and the development of strategies for the further progress of the expedition according to the current challenges.
In order to let you participate in the life of the team, we finalized and provide you a new video clip of the part from Jaktusk to Bilibino via the following link:
www.pny2009.com/cms/front_content.php?idcat=659&lang=4 (http://www.pny2009.com/cms/front_content.php?idcat=659&lang=4)
Best regards,
your Extrem Events team

Spr-T-23
04-05-2009, 09:18 AM
hope they dont go Titanic on the way across

BlueGerbil
04-14-2009, 03:40 PM
April 14, 2009:

Dear partners, friends, participants, supporters and all we met or who excitingly follow us,
We were bound and determined to return to Russia still in April in order to continue and successfully finish the “Paris / New York – Transcontinental” - expedition in 2009. However, on Wednesday, April 8, 2009, after due consideration and the check of all possible scenarios, we had to take the difficult decision to suspend the expedition for app. 6 months. The decision is based on the project goals, whose compliance is top priority for us.
Snow masses, which are exceptional also for the Tschukotka-region, strong gale-force storms and blizzards as well as reparations at the vehicles led to a uncatchable time difference in contrast to the necessary schedule, despite absolutely most effort of the whole team.
The “driving over the Bering Strait on ice” and the “traceless managing of all parts (also the difficult app. 2500km at the Alaskan west coast) would not be possible, even not on a route much more in the north. Therefore we will continue the expedition in fall/winter 2009/2010 with the following unchanged goals:
- Accomplishment of a historical, spectacular journey with the use of renewable energies
- Traceless round the world with a CO2-neutral balance
- Driving across the Bering Strait
- On the track of the emigration of nations round the world on wheels for the first time ever
Among others, the upcoming time will be used to neutralize the so far produced amount of CO2 with tree plantings and the preparation for the continuation of the journey. All activities, news, and project steps will be published as usual on the project page www.pny2009.com (http://www.pny2009.com) as well as in the internet panels in all languages.
Matthias Jeschke and Jürgen Graf / project leadership

OverkillZJ
04-14-2009, 06:34 PM
Floating JK... TOTALLY SWEET!

Spr-T-23
04-14-2009, 11:38 PM
THEY QUIT!!!??!?!! ive been hooked like a fish for them to go accross the water and now the wont??? basterds

dp96zj
04-14-2009, 11:45 PM
Damn that sucks! I was looking forward to the extreme water crossing.

http://www.pny2009.com/cms/cache/15563160466a982f3ec2f00229649e78.jpg

More pics on their website FYI:

http://pny2009.com/cms/front_content.php?changelang=4

Sudz
04-15-2009, 08:23 AM
Vielen Dank! to BlueGerbil for maintaining this thread and keeping us up to date on the expedition.

Brad S
04-15-2009, 09:16 AM
http://www.bildercache.de/bild/20090316-150700-435.jpg


Do you have a moose strapped to the top or something??

SirFuego
04-15-2009, 09:39 AM
Wow! Be sure to keep posting when the trip starts back up! What are you doing with the Jeeps for the next few months? Storing them somewhere in the area? Or are they being flown out (and back in)?

I just saw that you are planning to head through the Toronto area on your way to NY. I was hoping you would swing through the Buffalo area, but I guess Toronto is probably a better choice.

Sudz
04-15-2009, 12:39 PM
Do you have a moose strapped to the top or something??
read the thread and you'll find out :)

BlueGerbil
07-11-2009, 01:35 AM
In the last weeks it was quit calm about the expedition Paris / New York – Transcontinental – we had not been inactive but scheduled and checked many things what was related to the proceeding of the expedition. Within the next days we will public an important announcement to the expedition progress. Feel free to inform you also in twitter http://twitter.com/pny2009

Sudz
07-11-2009, 07:49 PM
some inspiration :smt080

i snapped these in '05

http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae93/ZJSudz/PiratePix/lib1.jpg

http://i961.photobucket.com/albums/ae93/ZJSudz/PiratePix/100_4192.jpg

BlueGerbil
07-12-2009, 06:03 AM
http://www.pny2009.com/cms/upload/logos/Final.jpg[/URL ([URL]http://www.pny2009.com/cms/front_content.php?idart=1908&idcat=733&changelang=4)]
Click the logo to enter the Partner15000 site

Initiative Partner15000 – In joint strength!
Initiative Partner15000 – In joint success!
Dear partners, friends, companions, supporters, everybody who met us, who had been excited and all people who get connected to the project,
The expedition "Paris / New York - Transcontinental" is aimed to surround the world by car at a CO2 neutral basis. With 400 km (248 miles) the expedition stands on the verge of reaching the Bering Strait. It was a hard fight against forces of nature, technical difficulties and the time. With the support of local people, the expedition teams fought against hurricanes and snow bounds, struggled forward mile for mile till total exhaustion. Now the historical chance, to drive over the ice of the Bering Strait in winter 2009 / 2010 and to become the first team that surrounded the world only on wheels seems within reach. If this succeeded, it would be the absolutely first drive on and drive across the strait with wheel driven vehicles.
Since the required adjournment in April 2009 we work intensively on the continuation of the expedition. We had to discover that the constant deterioration of the global economical general conditions turned into a large problem for us. Due to additional budget cuts we cannot fight anymore against the financial burden of the necessary spare part procurement, the vehicle repairs, the logistic and the continuation costs.
However we want to proceed and we are doing anything to turn the vision of the historical Bering Strait crossing on wheels into reality. But we need the support of many people. Only, if we will jointly succeed to secure the missing budget, of 750.000 EURO (1 Mio US-$), excluding tax, within this difficult time by mid of August 2009 we will be able to finalize all substantial provisions and to proceed with the expedition.
With the initiative Partner15000 we would like to adjure and invite you to support this project, no matter whether on a large or small scale. Strengthen the expedition and become a part of the project. Benefit as an investment partner from the advantages.
The initiative Partner15000 will be the third main sponsor of the expedition "Paris / New York - Transcontinental". It is a campaign powered by Extrem Events to form a worldwide limited community of 15,000 members driven by enthusiasm and benevolence to financially support the project. Not only individuals but also companies, clubs or associations can become a member.

Because we are aware that solely the people of the Partner15000 will make it possible to continue,
* We will dedicate the homepage www.pny2009.com (http://www.pny2009.com) to all supporters;
* We will designate the names on the homepage;
* We will eternalize all names of those who support the expedition with 250 EURO onwards onto three exclusive bronze boards (prior to the continuation of the expedition, two of those 3x3m sized boards will be assembled on exposed locations in Paris / France and Egvekinot / Russia for 30 years. If we do reach New York, the third board will be assembled on an exposed location as well);
* To all supporters, irrespective of the donated sum, we will offer exclusive future Business-Event-Travels (BET) to selected destinations on this globe.
* Additionally we will invite partners who invest 10,000 EURO or more to a one week Business-Event-Travel to Russia, organised by Extrem Events on our own cost.

To achieve a quick worldwide spread of this information we would be happy if you could forward this information to all of your friends and company partners. You will find this text at our Download area in six different languages – German, Russian, English, Spanish, French and Italian.

Again we would like to invite you to support the initiative Partner15000 and thank you in advance for your dedication.

Sudz
12-11-2009, 09:51 PM
is the bering strait frozen yet? ;)

BlueGerbil
12-17-2009, 04:47 PM
December 11, 2009

It just happened, but it could have happened any other day as well: I wake up, it is 8 am. I am completely beat-up. Signs of illness. Since my arrival I have more or less worked 16-18 hours a day in the cold of the garage. I have been outside to get some fresh air 4-5 times at the most, then back inside, going to bed at 3 am and so on. I only have a little sense of time left, because it is dark again at 2 pm. Until then there's only dawn (the sun only comes out for 2-3 hours when there are no clouds in the sky. Also, I don't see daylight anyway due to the garage. As always I immediately check my mails; today almost just bad / very bad news. Then a telephone conversation with Juergen. A little improvement, because he had a good news and I had to laugh out of joy over the wheel spacers. :-)

I dress in warm clothes, go to the sink, wash my face and hair quickly with yellow water which comes from the pipes - hopefully it's only rust from the pipes. Then I go to the dining room. Luba, the cook, throws her hands up, shakes her head and starts a fierce communication about me and most likely with me. I understand that I must be looking very bad today. She means to me to sit down you do what she says). Then explanations are following about what has to be done in which case of illness, etc. I don't understand a word, I just read her signs). When she is done explaining and workig, there are two slices of bread in front of me which have some kind of 5-8 cm thick layer of salad on them. I perceived that she pressed some garlic in front of me and I have a sense of what my palate might get to taste soon. Because you do what she says, I eat the medicine.

It is as if you take a garlic clove the size of a really big poignant onion, take a bite, suck it dry and savour it. Due to the taste, slapstick, aches in my mouth and no idea how I will ever be able to finish these two gigantig pieces of bread, I have to laugh. Luba is happy. She thinks I like it. I'm bursting from inner laughter.

BlueGerbil
12-17-2009, 04:50 PM
December 15, 2009



Cars are – except for a couple of things that need to be done as soon as the team finally arrives on December 26 – pretty much ready to go.

Started my trip home on December 15 via Anadyr, Moscow, Frankfurt. Just like the entire repair trip, it was very adventurous. There have been many hours of waiting, a broken airplane which had to be fixed quickly on the landing strip before dusk, a ride in a self-made swim-vehicle across the barely frozen bay of Anadyr, crowded airports because due to cyclones and blizzards no airplanes from Moscow were able to land for 1.5 weeks, many question marks due to delayed flights and new snowfall, a hara-kiri drive over ice, many changes of flight reservations, lost documents which were supposed to be kept by people at the airport, etc.

But one thing is always on the top rung: people in Russia are always trying to help, make, do. Very relaxed, very cooperative, very hospitable.
Will be in Germany for a couple of days to take care of those things that need to be taken care of. Then we will take off.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to everyone.

BlueGerbil
12-29-2009, 04:39 PM
December 29, 2009


When angels travel…

… goes a famous saying. By no means we claim to be angels, but everything worked perfectly – just unbelievable.

Wolfgang and Rudi from Munich and myself from Frankfurt to Moscow. Very very cooperative airport staff who helped us with all of our equipment and made exceptions.

Excellent Russian pilots who made sure that the airplane with many waiting passengers and us landed safely in Anadyr, despite very harsh winds. Thank you to Russian customs for supporting us once again exemplary with the necessary paperwork; Victor for finding us some special tickets from Tschukotavia; thanks to whoever opened this incredible weather-frame for us which made it possible to start the flight in the first place and arrive in Egvekinot with a great flight performance (yesterday there have been strong winds which made a landing in Egvekinot impossible) – kudos to the organizers and pilots of Tschukotavia for making the last flight for this year possible despite all circumstances and luggage / cargo-; Alexander and Nicolai who took care of the preparations in Egvekinot and picked us up; thanks to Wolfgang, Rudi, Jefgeny Konstantinov and Victor (the new team) for already some relaxed hours – it has just been a completely successful start and journey to Egvekinot – the city in Russia where even the winter roads end.

Thanks to Russia and Tschukotka for this greeting.

We will take care of the left over work that has to be done on the vehicles until the beginning of January, then celebrate new year’s with our friends, make some last preparations and start reporting again in the new year.

All the best,

Matthias Jeschke

MoparBoy01
12-30-2009, 10:17 AM
Man, I loved reading about this, wish they didnt meet so many obstacles and could have finished, oh well there is always nex year :) awesome write up

BlueGerbil
01-06-2010, 03:13 PM
December 29, 2009-January 03, 2010: We hit the road

At best weather which is supposed to last for another three days, at temperatures around -15°C and almost still air, we left Egvekinot, the city which welcomed us so nicely in all aspects and where we found many friends.

We just had some exhausting days.
At the day of our arrival (Dec. 29, 2009) we brought the vehicles from the “cold storage area” to the garage and continued to work on the vehicles every day almost around the clock – there has only been a break for our new year’s celebration – in order to finish the last remaining repairs and the new twin-tire-system. It has been the first test for the new team – passed with flying colors.

After leaving Egvekinot and crossing the bay on its straight path (thickness of the ice about 50cm), we are now on a headland which we are trying to pass since yesterday. Our goal is to reach the second bay at about N 66 12’024” / W 178 43’578” and cross this one as well- Yesterday we drove a total of 35 km.

We almost lost the F1 as I suddenly noticed a burnt smell. I stopped, thinking that something might be laying on my floor, which gets very hot at one special spot. But that wasn’t the case. Meanwhile Jefgeny left the vehicle on the passenger side to take a picture of the beautiful landscape, when he suddenly starts screaming: Fire, fire, fire! Flames were blazing underneath the car. Quickly we recognized that one of the engine covers was burning. Due to the fact that the cover was tied, we were not able to unfasten it quickly. Hectically Jefgeny and Victor threw snow under the vehicle while I tried to cut off the burning fabric.
Together with Wolfgang and Rudi, after a few minutes we extinguished the fire and removed the fabric. Only because we were very lucky, the overlap of the flames to the engine compartment could be avoided.
There has been almost no damage at the vehicle. We continued our journey after a big gulp of Vodka against the shock, thankful for the benevolence of the “place’s spirit”.

Until late at night we fought our way through the snow-covered tundra, pulled and winched us forwards.

Currently we are at N 66 11’642” / W 178 46’473” – everything is okay. We wait until the morning in order to cross the big bay at daylight. A difficult task.




January 04, 2010: 61st short message (00:26 a.m. CET)

9 a.m. Took off after a cup of coffee and a bread. First difficult obstacle: a riverbed with lots of snow. After about one hour of shoveling successfully crossed. Are 1km away from the bay.

Wind gets stronger. First light snowfall. Met two Chukots from Konergina who are on their way to Egvekinot via Skidoo. Their sled dog sitting on the Skidoo. Nice picture.




January 04, 2010: 62nd short message (01:38 a.m. CET)

12 p.m. Reached bay and managed entrance. F1 with both axles in the water. Pulled F1-trailer difficultly trough water-flooded tracks.

F2 made new tracks without any problems.
Following progress 2x through water-flooded tracks. Are currently 1km on bay-ice. Overall bay width 12km.




January 04, 2010: 63rd short message (03:55 p.m. CET)

1.30p.m. Reached the middle of the bay.

2 p.m. Reached other bank. Exit easier than entrance. Only cracks but no water. Yippie yeah.

2.30 p.m. Raised the tire’s air pressure from 0.3/0.4 to 0.6. Are currently driving – after getting over a small headland – on ice along the shoreline. Air-line distance to Konergina about 60km. Speed about 3-10 km/h. Increasing snowfall; wind about 5 Bft.

Current position: N 66 07’785” / W 178 30’560”




January 04, 2010: 64th short message (12:55 p.m. CET)

10.30 p.m. 6km away from Konergina track bar adapter on the front of F2 broke.
Steering virtually impossible. Made emergency repairs with straps and try to continue driving slowly. Tomorrow we have to weld.

Will spend the night 1.5km from Konergina and drive into the settlement tomorrow morning. A though piece of work until now. But the team is doing fine. Everything okay.

Current position: N 65 55‘363“ / W 178 48‘886“




January 05, 2010:

We woke up on a reindeer farm which served our vehicles as a place to stay for the night. Actually it’s more a place for the last hours of those beautiful animals, because here they are processed into food. At the crack of dawn, hundreds of antlers and others testified this. We detached the trailers and drove into the village. Right away crowds of people were gathering around us, children were running around and we were welcomed heartily. People from Konergina: Very very hospitable. A welder was organized. This was an opportunity for us to fill up the tanks from the barrels that we had with us. We received and ate raw reindeer meat and celebrated the New Year with a few drinks. After fixing the track bar adapter on F2, and welded and strengthened this same spot on F1, we bought an entire reindeer and got three fishes additionally as a gift. Then we resorted to the school house, in which we were invited to stay for the night. Because meanwhile it was evening again. This was also the time to say goodbye to Alexander and Victor, the Vestichot drivers (who supplied Konergina with all necessities during the winter). Especially for us they had postponed their departure from Egvekinot to Konergina in order to drive with us. Those were three great days with new friends who even shared the very tight passenger compartment of their Vestichot to eat with us.

Tomorrow, when the first beams of light appear, we will leave for the difficult track towards Enmelem. This way we will make use of the maximum period of daylight.

We would like to thank principal Alexander Volodko, the Chief of Administration Alexander Mylnikov and the Chief of Agriculturfarm Vladimir Alexeevich.




January 05, 2010: 65th short message (11 p.m. CET)

At 8 a.m. we started with dream weather and -28°C.
Yesterday, after we bought a reindeer, cut it into smaller pieces and ate parts of it with the people in Konergina, now there are two Chukots accompanying us today. So now we have guests in our little convoy. They want to come along to Neran. There is a big reindeer meeting point.

Our current position after good progress: N 65 51‘479“ / W 178 26‘860“




January 06, 2010: 66th short message (04:27 a.m. CET)

It is 3 p.m. and the team gets on well. We did 60km in 7 hours. There is an icy wind with strong flurries at about -28°C and no snowfall. The team is doing great and everything is within the bounds.

The landscape is unbelievable!
Our huge spikes prove themselves again and again. Often we have to cross lakes and wide rivers which are frozen and as smooth as glass, so that you cannot walk on them. It would be great to get out the skates. But thanks to the spikes which are easy to mount, we pull the trailers and rank on the ice without any problems. Brilliant!




January 06, 2010: 67th short message (06:32 a.m. CET)

5 p.m. Wind speed is 8 to 9 with strong flurries.

Our current position is N 65 39‘871“ / W 177 32‘155“




January 06, 2010: 68th short message (00:30 a.m. CET)

6 p.m. Stopped. F1 broke down. Cannot continue our journey without risking further damages. Servo pump (main fan-belt for all units runs over that) is threatened to overheat. Will build windbreak so that we can try a repair at wind speed 8 to 9.

7 p.m. Windbreak is done. Main pressure line of servo pump on swaging is damaged.

11 p.m. Built a 130 bar pressure line from battery brackets, pieces of fuel hose, clamps, wire straps, sawn off pieces of the old line and a big portion of team spirit along with imagination. Engine is running again. Are getting everything back in the vehicles and will leave again in about 30 minutes.
Freaking cold!



January 06, 2010: 69th short message (01:35 p.m. CET)

0.30 a.m. Line didn't last. Team tired, but we try again. Nerve-wracking. Sh*tty material.

...

BlueGerbil
01-06-2010, 03:57 PM
Some current pictures...

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Mtn WJ
01-06-2010, 04:16 PM
Thanks again for the updates and current pics. Where are the Jeeps now? Any estimates on when they will arrive in NYC?

NJSPEEDER
01-07-2010, 12:31 AM
If you guys give a date that you will hit NYC I want to know. I am a short drive/train trip from the city and I want to be there to welcome you.

BlueGerbil
01-08-2010, 07:49 AM
...

January 06, 2010: 70th short message (10:54 p.m. CET)
10 a.m. Very tough night. Tried emergency repair several times. Were able to start the engine again. Heater is working. Slept for five hours. We take off again.
Current position: N 65 39‘540“ / W 177 23‘128“



January 07, 2010: 71st short message (04:10 a.m. CET)
2 p.m. Arrived at a fishing hut at our current position N 65 35‘309 / W 177 06‘790“, made a fire, drank some warm tea. Pressure line lasted; not completely perfect, but it worked good. Vehicles are checked; will set off again in an hour and make use of the good weather (without any snowfall). Team spirit is great; we are all pulling together.
Will try to get further towards Enmelem (the next village in a distance of about 140km).



January 07, 2010: 72nd short message (02:00 p.m. CET)
8 p.m. Difficult navigation. Partially, visibility less than 15 meters. Coped with three tough sections since leaving the fishing hut: crossed one scarp as well as two rivers with deep steps and strong drifts.



January 07, 2010: 73rd short message (02:12 p.m. CET)
Very strong, icy winds. Continue to move forwards. Were able to cross two long land bridges in the gulf of Anadyr. Partially, 80 cm thick ice plates wildly thrown on shore. Also snow flurries and sometimes hardly any visibility. We are often only driving by looking at the GPS and move forwards meter after meter along scarps. Unbelievable how accurate this area has been mapped. We navigate up to 10-20 meters through complete wilderness, thanks to the Russian surveyors.



January 07, 2010: 74th short message (03:08 p.m. CET)
Are standing at current position N 65 28'942" / W 176 76'613" - In front of us is a steep hillside shelving all the way down to the sea. We have to go down there but will wait for daylight to minimize the risk. Team is doing good, cars are working.



January 08, 2010: 75th short message (01:01 a.m. CET)
12 p.m. Scarp is done. Afterwards we managed a difficult river crossing. F1 broke into Nalid Ice but got through it. Are standing on shoreline ice and drive further towards Enmelem.



January 07, 2010: 76. Short message (06:16 a.m. CET)
Very difficult mission. Had to pass a long slant from the shoreline, which was deeply blown over. For 300 meters we had to shovel, winch, pull and detach the vehicles from the trailers. This took us 3,5 hours. Very very cold with stormy wind (8-9). Jefgeny has a light frostbite on his cheek, but he is okay. There will be no harm left behind.
We are driving again. Difficult kilomerters are ahead of us. Wind is still increasing, snowfall started.

BlueGerbil
01-13-2010, 02:18 PM
January 08, 2010: 77th short message (11:52 a.m. CET)
It has been a crazy day. Into the bargain, we also got in a heavy blizzard. At no visibility, we fought our way from the shoreline through a delta near Neran.
Overall accomplishment for the day: 23km in 15 hours. What a number. We are now standing safely on a hill and wait for the end of the snow storm. Team and vehicles okay.
Current position: N 65 28‘378“ / W 175 58‘037“

January 08, 2010: 78th short message (10:26 p.m. CET)
9 a.m. Blizzard is over. 1,5 m snow drifts all around the cars. It’s amazing to see where we maneuvered last night without any visibility. The gods of nature to whom we sacrificed cigarettes and vodka in a traditional ceremony with our tschukot friends last night, were with us and protected us.
Last night also a nice act of friendship. Wow, a Tschukot, gave me his knife as a present. This is a very grand gesture. It’s a self-made knife made from the horn of reindeers. The blade is a self-forged saw blade; the shaft is made of reindeer leather and fur. In return, I gave him my knife as a thank you and felt honored.

January 09, 2010: 79th short message (05:21 a.m. CET)
10 a.m. Our two tschukot friends have turned and drive back to Konergina. We just left the delta. We are trying to find our way to a Vestichot track towards Enmelem over a high plateau. Three lakes in front of us which have to be crossed. The ice of the first one is too thin. When I walked over it to test the ice, it already cracked. We have to find a way around the lake.
2 p.m. Pressure line broke again.
4 p.m. Fixed pressure line as good as possible. Will take off again in 30 min. In the meantime, Jefgeny scouted the way around the first lake.


January 09, 2010: 80th short message (11:33 a.m. CET)
10:30 p.m. Found our way around the lake. Afterwards, difficult crossing of a river. Had to test the ice for a long time in order to find a good way to go. Both cars are tied together to secure them. Everything worked out well. We are about 40km away from Enmelem. Now we are diving across fields of heavy bumps. Due to the fact that we sway back and forth on the sea, we can only drive very slowly, which costs us a lot of nerves.
Current position: N 65 18‘139“ / W 175 48‘489“
Everything okay.

January 09, 2010: 81st short message (01:03 p.m. CET)
11:45 p.m. We are standing in front of a very broad delta with three main arms. Tried to cross. F1 broke into the ice. We were able to get back by our own power. Decided to stop for today and spend the night at N 65 16‘891“ / W 175 48‘000“. We will try again tomorrow morning.
Everything alright.


January 10, 2010: 82nd short message (01:05 a.m. CET)
12 p.m. Had a bad night. Nasty storm that made us fear that one of the trailers or a car would be blown over. That’s how strong the winds were. Decided to change places again and chose a safer one outside of the delta.
Then, this morning, there was beautiful weather with lots of sun. Regarding the weather, this is one of the most beautiful days of our journey. Then we found our way across the broad delta. Ice wasn’t frozen completely everywhere, but it lasted underneath the vehicles. Very good feeling. Right now we are still heading towards Enmelem. About 30km left.

January 10, 2010: 83rd short message (03:06 a.m. CET)
2 p.m. We just finished our first refueling without having to be completely covered from head to toe, without headlights, without thick mittens and without frozen fingers. We have beautiful weather.
It would even be possible to climb on the trailers without having to secure ourselves. Usually that’s not possible because there’s always the danger of falling because of the strong winds.

January 10, 2010: 84th short message (05:08 a.m. CET)
4 p.m. We just crossed the last broad delta before Enmelem!!!!!! We were expected. A delegate from Enmelem expected us at the side of the river that is oriented towards Enmelem. It was a hearty welcome. He said that everybody is happy to see us. We are the first ones who managed the crossing of the river – which we failed to do last night but managed this morning – this year!! Very awesome. A shot of vodka was obligatory.
Just one more pass and 10km, then we reach Enmelem. The team is very proud. So am I. A great team. Excellent team spirit and mutual respect and support. Great!

January 10, 2010: 85th short message (05:37 a.m. CET)
We wouldn’t stand a chance without spikes. They helped us a lot so far – amazing. Besides rivers and lakes, which can hardly be crossed by foot, the spikes once again proved their worth today. After the crossing of the last delta and before the pass, we just had to drive on an inclined and ice-covered track which has been carved into the hillside. Without spikes, no chance! This is how one jigsaw piece joins the others.
5 p.m. We arrived in Enmelem!!!

January 12, 2010:
In the morning of the 11th, after being able to sleep outstretched in the school, we were surprised by about 60 children who wanted to see us. They even quickly organized a special concert and a dance show for us. Great. The principal, the teachers, the children, the administration, the border guard, the mechanics, the helpers, etc. Just a great village.
Once again I have to emphasize that, in my mind and regarding my experiences, there is no other country in the world which I have been to, where there exist as many thoughts of friendship, helpfulness and hospitality as in Russia. I will not get tired of praising and give others an understanding of this.
The rest of the day, the entire night until 4 a.m. and today, the 12th, we dedicated ourselves exclusively to the repair of the vehicles. Finally F1 works again with a special constructed “Ural” (a Russian truck) servo line. The construction is about 4x bigger than the original and we need a higher engine revolution to steer, but this was the only chance we had, after this thing blew up several times for various reasons. Everything that we tried without welding equipment failed or just lasted for a short period of time. Now, after Alexey, the super welder, welded the Jeep for hours to the size of an Ural with painstaking attention to detail, hopefully it works. A feat, considering the 1 mm thick walls of the Jeep lines.
Tonight we will rest and start again tomorrow morning towards Providenia. Difficult river stages are awaiting us.
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BlueGerbil
01-17-2010, 04:10 AM
January 12, 2010: 86th short message (10:16 p.m. CET)
9 a.m. We took off. We are accompanied by two Skidoo drivers from Providenia, our friends Vladimir and Konstantin and a driver from Enmelem, who joined us (together with two others who sit on his sleigh – I believe they do this in order to minimize the risk of driving alone to Nulingran – our next goal). There is also our welder on his Russian motor vehicle (he wants to make sure that his welding lasts and also wants to see how far he gets).
Some information on the side: For the last decade, we were the first who reached Enmelem with wheeled vehicles, coming from Konergina.

January 13, 2010: 87th short message (02:11 a.m. CET)
1 p.m. We are fighting our way through a delta. We already managed 30 km. Again and again we have to winch, detach the trailer from the vehicles, cross small/medium/big river arms. Sometimes we break into the ice, but only for about 30 cm.
5 p.m. Managed difficult snow pass. Right now we are at the next river. Another 20 km to Nuligran.
6:45 p.m. Arrived in Nuligran. Team is in good shape.
Current Position: N 64 48‘259“ / W 175 22‘537“

January 13, 2010: 88th short message (09:51 p.m. CET)
8:30 a.m. We took off. There are 220 km of nothing ahead of us on our way to Providenia – including one of the most difficult tracks through the mountains with difficult passes, etc. Let’s hope that we can do it. A couple of days ago, a Vestichot sunk in the lake which we should reach by tomorrow. Now the ice is supposed to be strong enough. There is no other path anyway, so we have to try it.

January 14, 2010: 89th short message (03:16 a.m. CET)
1 p.m. We reached a fisher camp at N 64 48‘254“ / W 174 53‘804“ We made a fire for an hour, warmed up, drank some tea and coffee. Just started again at 2 p.m. Very difficult track – called Bermuda – ahead of us. First, we have o drive 13 km over a sea, then a difficult delta and then mountains. We are trying to arrive at a camp which is 70 kilometers away.
By the way: A wonder-, wonderful landscape with unbelievable ice-formations here – amazing!


January 14, 2010: 90th short message (05:20 a.m. CET)
4:30 p.m. Current position is N 64 46’783” / W 174 30’395”. Steering bars on F2 broke. No steering possible. The entire block that has been welded in Konergina, fell off. We are trying to fix it with belts. Team is alright.

January 14, 2010: 91st short message (07:59 a.m. CET)
6:30 p.m. Finished repair attempts. Three belts should keep together on F2 – which is manned by Wolfgang and Rudi, and thus completely northern Bavarian – what usually welds do. F1 is manned by Jefgeny, Viktor, Matthias at the moment. Great team work at -30°C and wind. Let’s see how far we can go with this. The next welding equipment is 140 km away. But, at least nature is nice to us. Right now, there is no snowfall. A couple of clouds, which gave the impression of an upcoming blizzard, have disappeared as well. Best weather – Thank God!

January 14, 2010:
8 p.m. Right now we are in the Bermuda area. Pre mysticism / stories that are written by the expedition.
Lead text:
Durng the crossing of the lake, there has been a crackling intense tension. Everybody was nervous and wanted to know if the ice was going to last – and especially since we had to drive in the middle of the lake, instead of on the side, due to too thin ice. The ice on the sides was not thick enough because of currents by feeder rivers. Furthermore, the ice wasn’t 1 meter thick as we all hoped, but only 30-40 cm and littered with big cracks. Suddenly there was no more steering support on F1. We thought that a line broke again. But it was the v-belt that was torn to pieces. I have no idea why. As quickly as possible we tried to assemble a new v-belt and belt pulley. This – on ice and in icy wind – was not easy and a big challenge. You need five people for this: one holds on to the hood so that it won’t fall down, one hold on to the insulating mat for the engine and the flashlight, one has the tools and spare parts, two remove the remains, hold the clamp and apply the belt.
~~~
Leap in time:
It is around 7 p.m. when we drive into the dreaded “Bermuda” area.
It is called like that due to difficult navigation and unexplainable events that have happened here in the past.
We continue slowly towards a narrow pass. We navigate only by computer and GPS; carefully we move along the hillsides - which we can’t see anyway because of the darkness - via coordinates and lines on a map that describe us the nature. Even our strong headlights allow us no more than an impression of the landscape few meters ahead of us. Driving around and finding our way by ligh is not possible because of the weather and trailers. The rising valley continues to get narrower until it is only 50-60 m wide. Then there is a wall of snow in front of us. To our left and to our right steep rock faces. There is only one chance: Going left and trying to use a hillside to get around the wall of snow. Regarding that F2 is handicapped because of its steering, we drive ahead in F1. The hillside gets steeper. The rock faces seem threatening. Wind shakes the vehicle. Then a whistling, a scraping from the engine compartment. Immediately I shut off the engine. We are in the midst of the inclination. We leave the car, open the hood: the v-belt is no longer on the belt pulley. It is damaged. Viktor starts to scream at the bad spirits in Russian, argues with them. He starts a shaman’s dance to fight them and get them away from the cars. At the same time, Jefgeny and I are trying to apply the v-belt. Actually eight hands would be needed for that, but F2 is far behind us.
Viktor shouts, screams, fights with gestures and noise against the invisible of the night.
~~~
The engine is working again – we go back in the vehicle and continue our journey. We make it, manage to get out of this undefined, threatening situation and to the top of the hill. F2 is following. Then, a couple hundred meters later: a scarp that has deep snow areas at its bottom. With lots of awareness and maneuvering, we get up to ten meters to the upper edge. At the steepest position, the v-belt falls off once again. Viktor is screaming again, fights. Jefgeny is sitting in the car and uses the brake. The hillside is so steep that there is no other possibility to secure F1. I curse, quarrel and apply the v-belt – which is now only 1 cm wide – again with lots of anger in my stomach. I am thinking: “It’s enough now” while maneuvering F1 against wind, spirits, snow and steepness onto the plateau. Done. F2 follows without problems.
10 p.m. Just finished difficult pass and are at position N 64 44‘469“ / W 274 23‘357“.
Team is doing well.
We are in the middle of “Bermuda” and fight.

January 15, 2010: 92nd short message (00:00 a.m. CET)
8 a.m. Are driving again.
9 a.m. Reached broad delta. There is a huge deep snow area in front of us with the dimensions of at probably 1 by 2 kilometers. We will try to drive around it. When we left the fisher camp at around 2 p.m yesterday, our two Skidoo drivers stayed behind. They wanted to try and catch up to us today during daylight.
Currently the three belts on F2 maintain the steering and the v-belt on F1 lasts. In case that there is anybody who wonders why we don’t change the v-belt: Altogether we have six spare belts. One is already in use; we want/have to make maximum use of all material.
10 a.m. We drove successfully around the snow area and also crossed a river. Are staying on course.

January 15, 2010: 93rd short message (03:35 a.m. CET)
1:30 p.m. We arrived at a fisher base 70 km away from Providenia. Current position is N 64 39’047” / W 174 02’183”.
Are driving at most with 2000 rotations per minute in all gear reductions, to ensure that the 1 cm v-belt will remain functioning as long as possible. We want to do the real repair no earlier than Providenia – if possible. There will be another 2-3 days of good weather – we have to make it.


January 16, 2010: 94th short message (00:15 a.m. CET)
Are currently at N 64 35‘866“ / W 173 37‘777“.
The team is alright but very tired. We are fighting to move forward step after step. Technical problems hinder our progressing significantly. At the moment we are 32 km away from Providenia.
We have to get over a difficult pass.
Without Spikes, no chance to get to get this far.
Without Webasto it would be even harder, because F1 currently doesn’t have any other heater.
Withour the sleeping bags from Mammut it wouldn’t be bearable.
Without the team’s mental strength, no chance.
We will report again.



January 16, 2010: 95th short message (08:37 a.m. CET)
Bermuda!!!
We are located somewhere between steep hills on a river. Meters of snow. No end of technical challenges. No time to relax. Hardly any sleep. It cannot get any harder. 600 meters in 24 hours: In the cold, we spent 5 hours rasping and remodeling the servo pump bearing of F1.
Mental strength of the team is at its highest level. Right now – after six hours of recovering the two trailers and a vehicle – we are trying to drive onto the ridge. There is no possibility to accomplish the canyon, which is covered in 4-5 meters of snow, before the pass. We tried everything today. Ridge is virtually our way around it. But it is very difficult to get to the top – very steep. We try our best. In my mind it cannot get any harder.
I will report let you know about what happened to the team since leaving the fisher camp, about what we had to go through and about any details, some other time. Right now there is no possibility to write more due to the circumstances that affect us/me.


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BlueGerbil
01-23-2010, 06:03 AM
January 17, 2010: 96th short message (05:32 a.m. CET)
5 p.m. ARE STILL MORE OR LESS AT THE SAME SPOT LIKE YESTERDAY. THE DISTANCE TO THE PASS IS STILL AROUND 5 KM, BUT NOW WE ARE ON THE RIDGE.
Last night it took us eight hours to winch the two cars and trailers up the hill. This morning I took two small-shot cartridges and constructed a new bearing for the servo pump, because it broke again. Yesterday six people from Providenia – were the people are waiting for our arrival – came to visit us and to see how we are doing. We were sincerely greeted by the leader of the administration, the leader of border control of the Russian troops, representatives of MCS and others.
Unbelievable, really. I will write more in the main report. Team spirit great. Team is feeling good. ...

January 17, 2010: 97th short message (09:42 p.m. CET)
Today, we accomplished 2.1 km. It was very tough work. We had to look for paths and get through snow fields for what seemed like forever. But driving around worked out. F1 is still running without any problems. The team is okay.


January 18, 2010: 98th short message (08:06 a.m. CET)
Today, we accomplished 1.6 km. The pass is now 1.9 km away. Endless powder snow. We winch and shovel – toughest strains for each and everyone. Cold, endeavor, shortness of sleep, but everyone does their utmost. Just great this team. No controversy, nothing. I am very enthusiastic about each and everyone. Just like settlers at that time – bit by bit in an unknown country.

January 18, 2010: 99th short message (12:49 p.m. CET)
Are literally walking on our last legs. This godawful pass.
It’s enough. Gosh. A little while ago, I was so angry. Oh well, after that, the snow had a realization. It froze a little more and we could move 800 m in two hours. Now we are standing on a hillside – on a little plateau – about 1.2 km away from the pass, with both vehicles and trailers. Tonight we will try to make a track with F1 and use sticks, that I placed today during the daylight, as orientation (if we can find them at night :)). The snow here makes you go crazy. The surface is hard as concrete, but underneath is nothing but powder. If the surface breaks, the wheel breaks in and then there is no more traction. This form of snow is very different from the snow e.g. in Jakutsk. There, we didn’t reach the passes easily, but we did get to cross them. Here, everybody has their hands full of weals from shoveling and everybody has enough from the “pass”.

January 19, 2010: 100th short message (00:16 a.m. CET)
Have to get out of here. Yesterday we received a bad weather report – on January 21/22, there is expected to be a storm with snow, snow drifts and wind speed 9-10 as well as hurricane blasts. We only have two days left. We have to make it. We worked the whole night, shoveled like crazy and winched. We accomplished another 200 meters along the steep hillside – we mastered an absolute challenge. Another 1.7 km to the pass.

January 19, 2010: 101st short message (05:04 a.m. CET)
800 m before the pass, after what seemed like endless days, nights and efforts: problems with the axles on F1 and F2. Right now we are organizing support and a rescue vehicle. Team is great. Have to retain our composure. We gave everything, really everything until now. Retain composure / retain composure – it is very difficult.

BlueGerbil
01-25-2010, 04:31 PM
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BlueGerbil
02-02-2010, 09:44 AM
January 20, 2010: 102nd short message (11:05 am CET)
Spent the night and today well. The weather is still stable. Today or tomorrow, we will winch and pull ourselves over the pass with our Russian helpers and then try to drive over the ice of the Providenia Bay to Providenia. If the ice shouldn’t bear our weight, we would have to driver over a second pass to get around the bay. In Providenia we will be able to properly diagnose the damages and make repairs. F2 could be repaired at short notice. F1 will be more difficult, it might take a couple days longer. We will try to get back on the road as fast as possible. Right now we expect to remain in Providenia for about two weeks.
If anybody wants to come and join the team is welcomed. Juergen Graf, Astrid Wallner and Jan Liska can give further information.


January 20, 2010: 103rd short message (03:22 p.m. CET)
3 a.m. After a difficult final stage, we arrived in Providenia.
The brake pipe on F2 fell off, there has been a tire failure on F2, the trailer of F1 has a deformed axle, we broke into Nalid Ice. All team members are exhausted but doing well – apart from dark shadows under the eyes, beards, black hands, body odor, wet shoes, cracked fingers, chipped fingernails and so on.
We will get in touch again.



January 21, 2010: 104th short message (03:34 a.m. CET)
We are still on the street in Providenia. We are talking, negotiating, looking for a parking space for the trailers and a place to repair the vehicles. Many people have come outside. They welcomed us, considered how they could help us, signed the cars, gave us coffee, tea and a place in the office of a small garage. After a long time, we ate some fresh bread instead of frozen cross. A part of the team slept in a Russian tracked vehicle – finally sprawled out again as I heard – for a couple of hours.
I believe we will find solutions within the next hours, eventually days. Just now we have been offered a Russian sauna to heat up and clean up again.
We’ll see. Definitely very friendly here. A couple minutes ago I received the news that we at least found two places for the trailers.



January 21, 2010: 105th short message (09:43 a.m. CET)
Trailers are safely stored inside / in front of a hall. On the part of the very friendly mayors, we found an accommodation that we can use for the entire duration of our stay. It is empty but warm, has a bathroom with shower and carpeted floors. They just brought us a small table. We sleep on the floor in or on our sleeping bags and are very happy about this place to live. The vehicles are still on the street. Tomorrow they will decide where we go for our repairs.
“Warm boxes” in which there are at least 0°C, are seldom. And if they exist, they are most of the time already taken. We will see. First of all we will make some food and enjoy a Russian beer. We deserve it.
Providenia is located right next to a bay. In front and behind the city mountains rise as if they were painted. If you stay at the bay, look towards the sea and the sun goes down blood-red like today, a painter couldn’t capture it any more beautiful. And temperatures around -10°C make you forget how hard life must be for the people living here. Forces of nature can be pretty tough. The hurricane that is expected to come, will show prove this to us quite plainly.



January 22, 2010: 106th short message (11:50 a.m. CET)
This morning we were shown once again how welcomed we are here, how hospitable the people in Tschuotka are. We received a call from the mayor, that a “warm box” has been found on the part of the first minister. We were asked to come to the technical school, where we received more information. Right away we left for the school. There, we were welcomed by the principal. He explained to us that they were willing to help and that they wanted to rearrange a box for us, so that our cars could stay there as long as we needed for our repairs. The box also has an undercut and a hoisting crane! In our situation this felt like Christmas. Grateful, we brought the vehicles from their place on the street of the outskirts to the box in the city. Afterwards a meeting with the highest ranking representatives of the regional government and city administration took place. In the main building we had some interesting conversations as well as coffee and tea. We discussed the further proceedings. During our conversation we were offered again all necessary support. In return we offered to be available for lectures, discussions, conversations, cultural exchange for the kindergarden, the school, the technical school and anyone who is interested for as long as we are here. Honestly, where can you find that in our culture? Go to the outskirts of any city in the world and ask for accommodation for your team, a parking space for big trailers and a work place to repair two vehicles. This is a geniality and friendship of the Russian population.
I think that Tschukotka offers a great variety of regional distinctions and could make a difference in the area of tourism. There are bizarre images of nature, silence, and amazing beauty of the tundra that every traveler can see. Seldom have I seen a clearer sky, more stars, wilder valleys, have I experiences the calmness better than here. I wish that more people would make the move and get to know this wonderful area of the world. I can only recommend this to everybody – he/she will be thrilled!
While I am writing these lines, the storm starts to exert its forces. The wind becomes stronger, snow started falling and flurries are blowing through the streets.



January 29, 2010: 107th short message (01:12 a.m. CET)
We’ve got our hands full and try desperately to find a solution for the transport of the damaged axle parts. Please excuse that I didn’t write that much.
Whoever wants to help us and has according contacts or wants to write, could talk to the Alaska Eskimo Whaling Commission.
Alaska Eskimo Whaling Commission
PO Box 570
Barrow, AK 99723-0570
Phone 907-852-2392
Fax 907-852-2303
On behalf of this commission, there will be a flight from Nome, Alaska to Providenia, Russia on February 08, 2010. If our parts cannot be on this flight, they will arrive no earlier than the end of February and our chance to reach the Bering Strait in time will diminish.
Unfortunately the commission categorically refuses to take our two travel bags with the spare parts along on the almost empty flight. We don’t know the reasons. All other involved parties are willing to make it possible. But the final decision has the Alaska Eskimo Whaling Commission.



February 30, 2010: 108th short message (03:09 a.m. CET)
By now, a lot of different parties are asking the Alaska Eskimo Whaling Commission to take our two travel bags along on their empty (!!!!) flight from Nome to Providenia – of course we will pay for it. They categorically refuse. We don’t know why. We never did anything bad against the people or the commission. Nobody understands this stance. They suggested to us that we pay the entire flight and then we can send our two bags along.
This would have never happened in Russia, never, never. If anybody needs help, you help them. And we are by no means cadgers who ask for help for free. We only ask for an approval to put our two bags against payment on this empty flight. Unbelievable, really unbelievable.



February 01, 2010: 109th short message (11:23 a.m. CET)
Great, our friend Dimitri sent his acquaintance “Oleg” to our apartment today. He’s a man with best connections in satellite lines. :-)
Via TV he made us an internet connection at its best and now we can – finally with a prospect of success – try to send a couple of pictures. We are trying to do so for a couple of days now but the satellite system in F1 doesn’t work as long as it is in the shielded hall. On our agenda for today was also the official visit in the kindergarden and a heartily welcome.
Meanwhile works Jefgeny with our friend Valerie, the welder, on the reconstruction of the steering parts. They also weld a big part of the special constructions on F2.


Due to the better internet connection we got a bunch of photos from the expedition team - check all of (200+) out at:

Part 1: http://bit.ly/bpGskP
Part 2: http://bit.ly/9DlAkK

Some of them for you to enjoy:

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BlueGerbil
02-07-2010, 09:20 AM
New photos of the expedition are online: http://bit.ly/aw90cD



February 04, 2010: 110th short message (02:26 p.m. CET)
The past two days cost me a lot of nerves (are there any left in the first place?). A tough pass with snow is easy compared to the last days. Oh well. At the moment we don’t make any progress with the flight, also regress with one of our suppliers in a way that my head explodes. I have to get angry about so many things that I think hellhounds are marching.
The good news: the team is great and sticks together even though the days of waiting aren’t easy. There’s discipline, we brace ourselves, we won’t let things slide. Every day we repair another piece. Rudi was already jokingly talking about training in auto mechanics as his continuation education. I believe he will open a garage when he’s back. Today we started with the first trailer. Right after the pass, when we broke into really deep Nalid Ice with F2 and its trailer, the trailer’s front axle broke. Therefore we decided to modify the trailers so that they are operated by one axle only. We also shorten them to their minimum and try to reduce the weight as much as possible. For stabilization we mount a pivoting ski onto the drawbar. At least that’s the plan – let’s see how it will turn out.


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BlueGerbil
02-09-2010, 02:55 PM
New photos are online at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=144222&id=41595873841[/URL ([URL]http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=144222&id=41595873841)]



February 07, 2010: 111th short message (02:27 a.m. CET)
Today, a story about Victor which he allowed me to tell. As a former helicopter pilot, Victor knows many people in Tschukotka and just as many know him. He often gets recognized; even when his last flight to that place was ten or more years ago. People who live in the small villages don’t need time. They have plenty of it. Victor once asked a tschukot man who hailed him: “Do you even know when we saw each other the last time?” The man answered: “Well, a couple of winters ago.” But it has been 14 years.
There’s also a nice story about Victors tooth. He either didn’t have enough time or enough money, so he made a tooth from fossilized mammoth bone. Of course this has to be renewed as well, therefore he occasionally rasps at mammoth pieces that he always carries with him. Surely he is the only man who has a 10.000 or more year old tooth. By now it is also a lucky charm, he says. We definitely laughed a lot about his jokes concerning this issue. Victor is a very funny man in general. Sometimes he looks like Sean Connery, sometimes like a very strict officer and sometimes like a clown. A strong, versatile mimic, combined with his charming humor, his guitar playing and his singing, he made us laugh many times. Due to his speaking ability, I think he should become a radio reporter or due to his certainly strong acting talents, become a TV actor. Maybe a producer will read this.



February 07, 2010: 112th short message (02:40 am CET)
On Friday we were invited to visit Providenia’s court. We learned a little bit about the Russian law and saw what a court room looks like. Afterwards we had a very interesting conversation with the judges which proved the trust in us once again. Yesterday we had our last – appointed with the administration – official visit of a school. It was the school of sports. It is located in the ski base. More than 50 children have been there; it was lots of fun. As always, we brought chocolates (altogether we gave out hundreds of chocolates to the children of Tschukotka. The little store where we always buy them, e.g. in Providenia, has high season for chocolates.) and did our little questions/ answers game.
By the way, here in Providenia is Russia’s easternmost ski slope and the second westernmost slope of the world. How can that be?
The easternmost part of Russia is in the westernmost part of the world and the westernmost part of the world is in the easternmost part of Russia.
Explanation: The 180th longitude is right between Belibino and Egvekinot. About 40 km before Egvekinot. Therefore, every part of Russia that’s north from there, is in the West of the world. That means that the westernmost part of the world is in easternmost Russia. Hence, Egvekinot is one of the westernmost settlements, has the westernmost ski slope of the world (Providenia has the second westernmost ski slope), Providenia only has the easternmost ski slope of Russia (after Providenia there is nothing else).
Today we have been invited to try the slope by ourselves. It’s an adventure and at the same time it is remarkable how joy is given to someone. Of course everything is a little bit more basic but ingenious in its function. It was like a holiday for the team. The following dinner with Ludmilla and her daughter topped two good days off.


February 08, 2010: 113th short message (12:41 p.m. CET)
Concerning the delivery of the spare parts I have decided that I will not ask the people from AEWC for help any longer. We found another possibility to bring the parts to Providenia. I hope that they will arrive on Thursday, even though we are expecting bad weather with a storm and lots of snow. Let’s see how this will turn out. Anyway, everything is ready in Nome.
We now know something very interesting:
We were told that we are the first expedition ever that came to Providenia from Europe with wheeled vehicles. And Rudi and I are the first Germans that went skiing here on Russia’s easternmost ski slope. Not bad


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Matt
02-13-2010, 06:30 PM
Epic, keep it coming. :)

BlueGerbil
02-15-2010, 05:22 PM
February 14, 2010:
Thursday has been a great day. So far we kept ourselves afloat with lots of discipline and “hang-in-slogans”, but on Thursday afternoon we finally received good news.
First we received an official invitation for a conversation by the leader of the regional government “Providenia Region”. During the meeting which lasted almost one hour, we received a special book about Chukotka as a thank you for our school visits and speeches. The entire team felt much honored about this special gesture. In return we thanked everybody for their trust. For us, all the visits have been a great pleasure. Afterwards, when I received good news from the capital Moscow, and Rudi exclaimed a crow because he found strawberry ice in a store, the sun arose again on the night sky. When I also found tea-cakes – my absolute favorites – (the first ones since mid-December), it was as if fireworks started. Alright, alright, I know I am exaggerating. But if you try to put yourself in our position, you understand how great this was for us.
Then it was Friday – it was a wonderful morning at around 8 a.m., sunlight was shining through scattered clouds that were floating across the sky, there was a light wind, it is cold, the mountains were glowing in the light of the rising sun, the bay was calm and frozen, it was a feeling of peace, everything is blue/light blue/white. It was the best weather for pictures AND for an airplane to start. Yes, finally our spare parts can arrive today!!!
I walk fleet-footedly and elated to my Blackberry, awaited the flight information, open the e-mail from Bering Air and: Arrrrrrrggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhh!
They cannot come because the landing strip in Providenia cannot be cleared from the last two days’ of snow of the blizzard. They say that the next possibility will be Monday IF not another snow storm comes first. Phuuuh. Breathe, breathe.
So we spent the Friday with dinner preparations, cooked for our guests, continued the work on our cars. In the evening we had a very successful dinner with our guests and had “one for the road” in the only bar of the village. Saturday we worked and worked and worked (on the cars of course). Then we went to the Banja with our friends as every Saturday. Sunday we worked and worked and worked. Then I received a call. The mayor of the city invites us to visit the newly-opened public sauna. We are very happy, also because he picks us up personally and because he prepared everything for our arrival. It is a successful visit. Where else but here takes anybody as much care for their guests as here? We were welcomed by about 30 men in the Banja. During this visit, Rudi receives his “slap baptism”* and wiping each other off in the snow afterwards is also bearable.
*They call it a Russian massage: After three, four minutes in the “oven” and about ten douses, you lay down on the upper level of the Banja. Twigs are bound into a bunch. Then you sweep, waggle, press and hit them over your whole body. Some do it themselves, some let themselves be “hit” by others. Most of the time it is done with the side where the leaves are; sometimes with the sticks. It’s nice once you got used to it; but it hurts if you are struggling on the inside. It is hot, almost so that you pass out, when you gasp for breath; it is bearable if you try breathing normally. It renews if you like to do some good to your body in the cold; it is tiring if you don’t. Therefore “very good”.
Because nobody is really any closer to the future as we are (we are kind of in the future), we can tell the Americans what is expecting them tomorrow, the world behind us expects the day that we already lived and are looking into the promising soon, I hope, that the Americans will fly tomorrow, on Sunday, so that we will have received our parts today on Monday.

.


February 14, 2010: 115th short message (10:11 p.m. CET)
Bering Air just let us know that they will not come. They have to do other flights first. Great. Our flight has been delayed since last Wednesday. I intervened. Let’s see if the Bering Air management comes around.

.........


February 15, 2010: 116th short message (11:44 a.m. CET)
Definitely no flights today. Bering Air declined – and again we hope that it will work tomorrow. I think this is generally the main problem for this special part of the world. Any kind of transport either depends on weather, extremely complex, is life-threatening or spectacular. Right now our plan is to start driving on Friday, latest Saturday. Continued our repairs and preparations today.

BlueGerbil
02-17-2010, 01:55 PM
February 16, 2010: 117th short message (00:13 a.m. CET)
It’s hard to believe. Just now we received the news that the airplane with our spare parts left Nome and that it will be here in about an hour. Victor is on its way to the airport. He will take care of everything. Jefgeny will help him. Rudi and I continue our work here.

............


February 16, 2010: 118th short message (05:20 a.m. CET)
The airplane landed!!! Phuuuuu.
Right now everything gets checked, then it has to be sent through customs and then they will bring it here.
I’m curious to see if we can fix the cars with these parts.

BlueGerbil
02-20-2010, 09:41 AM
..........


February 18, 2010: 119th short message (12:53 p.m. CET)
We are working on the vehicles at full blast. Could it be any different? Right now our plan is to leave again on Saturday or Sunday. First we want to reach Novoe Chaplino and then – after a short stop – go about the longest ice test on sea ice (about 60 km along the coast) aiming towards Janrakinnot.
For this purpose we will pull the trailers, which are now modified to be single axle operating, on 25-meter-ropes behind the vehicles to avoid too much pressure on the ice and thus a break in.
Wild stories are being told about this overall 80km long section (sunken vehicles, Nalid Ice wherever you look, etc.).
Special perils of this section are the water fields. They form on special areas on top of the ice and are covered by snow. The wind and temperature conditions cause the surface of the snow to freeze (whilst keeping its snowy appearance). The snow and water underneath do not freeze though. A very malicious, visually plain surface forms which breaks when you drive over it. We hope not to get caught in such a trap.

Sudz
02-20-2010, 06:05 PM
First we want to reach Novoe Chaplino and then – after a short stop – go about the longest ice test on sea ice (about 60 km along the coast) aiming towards Janrakinnot.

this is what they are attempting:

http://maps.google.com/maps?daddr=%2B64%C2%B0+40'+0.00%22,+-173%C2%B0+1'+0.00%22+(64.666667,+-173.016667)&geocode=CZPT9foGtgmkFSu82gMdpfmv9Q&dirflg=&saddr=Janrakinnot&f=d&sll=64.680318,-173.015442&sspn=0.842215,2.337341&ie=UTF8&ll=64.799865,-172.770996&spn=0.838499,2.337341&z=9

green B (Novoe Chaplino) to yellow 1 (Yanrakynnot)

BlueGerbil
02-27-2010, 06:11 AM
February 22, 2010:
The repairs take a lot longer than what we had originally planned. Again and again the tools are a perfidy. Instead of using special tools, we have to find new ideas over and over again to replace the missing special tools. But these ideas need to be thought trough first and implemented. Improvising takes a lot of time. But generally we progress. There are only few more tasks left, amongst others the rear axle of F1.
Hopefully we will be able to make a test drive tomorrow. Then we would leave early Wednesday morning.
Here a rough list of the tasks that we have done/are doing for whoever might be interested in what we had to repair, produce, newly invent and modify:

F1 with trailer1:
- Main plug electric bar fixed and sealed
- Axle-box clearance adjusted in the front (left and right) and in the back (left and right) and free-wheeling hub fixed in the front
(left) with the lid of a can
- Mounted lever shears onto the vehicles
- Stabi bearing fastened in the front (left and right)
- Steering gear mounting and track bar counter bearing constructed and welded in/frame retainer aligned and welded
- Welded broken frame in the front (left and right)
- Retightened and affixed all screws
- Remodeled twin-tire system and changed over to rim operation
- Welded exhaust bracket
- Affixed exhaust pipe left and right
- Servo pump and servo pipes affixed
- V-belt, hose clamp and pulley renewed
- Power supply and antenna cable for emergency radio units fixed
- Track bar bearing renewed
- Oil pan enforced because axles banged against it
- Welded reinforcement to back upper steering link (left and right) and built new rubber bearings from isolators
- Repaired back axle/renewed differential
- Aligned 2 twin-tire cages
- Renewed 3 Beadlocks
- Renewed 2 tire-valves
- Adjusted size of swimming tires
- Front upper axle bearing abraded and reduced
- Batteries charged
- Completely unloaded and loaded trailer, remodeled to one-axle operation, dislocated pontoons and brackets, welded frame,
reconstructed and exchanged tongue

F2 with trailer2:
- Aligned track bar bearing and radius rod bearing and spring stop bearing in the back (right)
- Demolished brake pipe in the front renewed (right)
- Half of right front axle renewed
- Axle-box clearance adjusted in the front (left and right) and in the back (left and right)
- Mounted lever shears onto the vehicles
- Stabi bearing fastened in the front (left and right)
- Steering gear mounting and track bar counter bearing constructed and welded in/frame retainer aligned and welded
- Front lower spring seats aligned and welded
- Welded broken frame in the front (left and right)
- Retightened and affixed all screws
- Remodeled twin-tire system and changed over to rim operation
- Affixed exhaust pipe left and right
- Servo pump and servo pipes affixed
- V-belt, hose clamp and pulley renewed
- Track bar bearing renewed
- Oil pan enforced because axles banged against it
- Welded reinforcement to back upper steering link (left and right) and built new rubber bearings from isolators
- Aligned 1 twin-tire cage
- Renewed 1 Beadlock
- Renewed 3 tire-valves
- Adjusted size of swimming tires
- Front upper axle bearing abraded and reduced
- Batteries charged
- Completely unloaded and loaded trailer, remodeled to one-axle operation, dislocated pontoons and brackets, welded frame,
reconstructed and exchanged tongue
In between we propped the cars several times up above the pit with air-hook-rope-bridge-hanging-techniques and reckless constructions after we sewed about 30 pieces of wood from a thick bar with a hand saw.

..........


February 22, 2010: 120th short message (11:39 a.m. CET)
Both test drives were successful!!!
Test with trailers were successful as well!!!
Now we start loading the vehicles.
This will be a long night again. Tomorrow we will fill up the tanks, clean up the apartment, go grocery shopping, load the last few things, have final meetings with people from public live and helpers, then sleep.
If the weather remains okay, we will start again early Wednesday morning.
Unfortunately a large crack has already formed at the entrance to the 60 km long bay. The crack is filled with water. Furthermore there is a lot of snow expected as we heard today.
Let’s see.



February 24, 2010: 121st short message (09:03 a.m. CET)
We just finished with the cars and trailers. Unexpectedly and severely we have to pass another, very difficult test at the moment. The team is struggling. Tomorrow will bring a decision, I believe. Difficult times.



February 25, 2010: 122. short message (12:53 p.m. CET)
The test is over. The team has struggled, it has struggled very hard. A crack in the relationship between two people could – despite all friendship that connected and still connects our team – not be fixed. After such a long time of struggling, holding on, waiting and working hard, ther will now be a change in team members. Jefgeny Konstantinov will go back to Moscow, Konstantin Savva will join the team again. What exactly happened will remain within the team, but Jefgeny had a hard time making this decision. He was struggling for a long time. At the end though, there was only the flight back.
My good friend, I thank you for the time we spent together, for the great navigation you did even during complete blind flights, your calmness, you reliability, the partnerschip. Jefgeny, you were a great partner. I regret that you cannot continue with us.
The team will leave tomorrow morning.



February 26, 2010: 123rd short message (05:43 a.m. CET)
12 p.m. After saying goodbye to the administration, to many many people and friends, we left.
1 p.m. Another damage on the axle on the F2 trailer. It took us 4 hours. Are ready to start again. The wheel bearing including drum broke off and a complete wheel has been lost. With Alexander’s help we got a spare part from Aletr Axles in Providenia. In the meantime we checked all other axle bearings and readjusted them. The most difficult part of it was to lift one side from the trailer which was completely sunken in snow.
5 p.m. Let’s continue!



February 26, 2010: 124th short message (07:51 a.m. CET)
We just arrived in New Chaplena. But we will not stop and continue our drive right away to make use of the night light (very good view due to moonlight) and the icy temperatures of up to -35°C. We hope that the deep snow that now goes 20 km to the bay will freeze during the night and carry us.



February 26, 2010: 125th short message (10:58 a.m. CET)
Got stuck for about 1.5 hours. We had to take the twin-tires off because the rims were breaking. Right now we are in the deep snow between New Chaplena and Sinavinslkie bay. We are accompanied by our two Skidoo drivers Vladimir and Konstantin who turn around and go back to Providenia now to sleep. They will join us again in the morning. Until Lavrentia, the new team member and substitute for Jefgeny is Valerie Borisovitsch, our friend from Providenia. He is driving in Rudi’s car and Victor is with me.



February 27, 2010: 126th short message (00:32 a.m. CET)
08.30 a.m. Yesterday we made it up to 2.5 km in front of the bay. Since everybody was exhausted, we stopped to go to sleep. Weather is okay, winds with drifts at the ground (we are located in a valley, so downslope winds would be worse), the sky is clear. From our location we can already see the bay (or better: where it should be if there was water). We hope to manage the last two kilometers without complications. Then we will see how we get onto the ice.

February 27, 2010: 127th short message (04:30 a.m. CET)
3 p.m. We arrived at the bay. After a short stop to put on our security clothing we continued. Let’s see if the ice will last. The entry was alright. By now, the crack froze again. Very good.



February 27, 2010: 128th short message (06:23 a.m. CET)
04.30 p.m. F2 subsided. The water pushed into the right trail. We had to react fast. We managed it with a very long rope on the trailer of F1 and lots of winching. Now we are driving again.
05.30 p.m. A Skidoo driver is going back to Providenia due to hypothermia. We winch and crawl our way forward on deep snow on ice. First gear at creep rate.
Another 34 km to Jandrekinot.

BlueGerbil
03-02-2010, 05:03 PM
February 27, 2010: 129th short message (10:14 a.m. CET)
F1 broke really badly into the snow. It sunk more than one meter into the snow. Underneath is water. It took us three hours to get it out again.
We are still at that place, trying to get over the crack that seems to be underneath. We move forwards half a meter and another half a meter with the help of sand sheets. It wouldn’t be possible without the sand sheets. We shovel, winch, pull, etc. It’s drudgery with no end.
Just now there was a little bit Russian romantic when we made a fire, made some tee (as well as coffee), cut some bread, ate some onions and sausage. We heard that Russian soldiers are doing it just like that.
Now we are trying to continue. It’s best if you just forget that you are in the middle of a bay on ice with 16 tons of weight. Then it’s fine. But if you think about it, you get queasy, even though the ice is about 80 cm thick.
Just now the wind slowed down, which caused the snowflakes to remain on the ground and not get swirled back in the air. For a couple of minutes we were able to see the lights of Jandrekinot in the far distance.


February 27, 2010: 130th short message (11:24 a.m. CET)
How does it work, what we are doing here right now?
Tires 0.1 in the front and 0.2 in the rear.
First we try to get F1 through the deep snowfields by shoveling and with sand sheets. Then we winch the F! trailer with the rear winch on F1 from about 80 meters away to about 40 meters away. Then we use the F1 trailer to winch F2 and trailer and also help with sand sheets because otherwise F2 would also break in. Drudgery, but that’s the only way to do it.
Without the awesome winch system with pluggable winches in the front and rear: zero point zero chance. This is the only way to get the modified trailers with skid and one-axle-operation through it. The modifications were worth it. The material by Roka and BPW is great.
..........

February 28, 2010: 131st short message (00:22 a.m. CET)
Have been on the ice of the bay for 24 hours now. It is an unbelievable drudgery. F1 and F2 broke completely into water traps. 200 m in 13 hours. What a bummer!
We were able to free ourselves from the worst water trap. We didn’t sleep since 10 a.m. yesterday morning. The team is doing well and mentally strong.
On it goes.

February 28, 2010: 132nd short message (07:13 p.m. CET)
By now we have worked for 36 hours non-stop. As described, we got right into the water traps that we have been warned of and had to free ourselves from them. But there’s no other way than the bay. Therefore we have to get through it.
Especially the winching, next to the continuous shoveling and carrying of sand sheets is exhausting In order to winch F1 we need ice anchors. They consist of an about 80 cm long, round piece of wood around whose middle is tied a winch rope. Then we sink the piece of wood at right angle to the traction direction inside a snow hole which we have dug all the way to the ice. We add three additional ice stakes into this 80-100 cm deep hole and thus secure the piece of wood. Then we knock it as deep as possible into the ice on which the wooden piece lies. Due to the fact that there is water on the ice, this is a wet issue. The gloves freeze within seconds.

February 28, 2010: 133rd short message (10:29 p.m. CET)
6 a.m. After having slept at least for a couple of hours, we take off again. Right now the temperature is -35°C. Therefore we hope that the water froze a little bit more so that we will be able to drive and not winch.

March 01, 2010: 134th short message (07:22 a.m. CET)
We are currently at N 64°51.821’ / W 172°43.365’.
Yesterday evening we managed to place both cars and both trailers together on a secure section of “watersnow”. Then we fell into a deep sleep. Later that evening, when two Skidoo drivers and Vladimir and Jefgeny came from Providenia to visit us, at least I only noticed that while being half asleep.
Today everything worked out better. The low temperatures of the night caused the aspic-mixture to freeze. The new Wrangler MTR can prove their strengths once again and let us progress.
This watersnow is due to three huge cracks which form every year in the bay. Two of them are diagonally to the bay, one is parallel. On the photos that we will send, the third crack will be visible. The cracks are about 40-60 cm wide. The third crack, for example, had only about 10 cm of ice at one spot.
What caused us to slow down today were seal holes. Seals need air to breathe. But considering that everything is frozen, nature came up with an amazing instrument and gave the seals “super breath”. With their super breath the seals aspirate holes into the ice in order to get to the fresh air. More or less circular holes form, which fill up with water. If it snows for a longer period of time, the holes blow over and a delusive layer forms.
We got caught in many of them today. Once we hit it with a front wheel, once with a rear wheel, once with a wheel of the trailer. There have to be many of those colleagues here.
If you drive over the holes with enough speed and break in, it will pull out you axle. This is because the holes with water and snow on top will cause an about 1.5 x 1.5 meters wide hole to arise. Therefore we have to go very slowly. This way we might still break in, but nothing will be damaged.
And it’s better not to try and close the holes by shoveling snow into them so that we can put sand sheets over them, because then it might be that you find the next hole with the next shovel and break in with your feet. And then you are wondering why you are suddenly 60 cm lower (this happened just like that).

March 01, 2010: 135th short message (07:30 a.m. CET)
5 p.m. We just arrived at the mainland and thus in Jandrekinot. Awesome!
We are all happy to have made it through the bay. Great team!
Right away we were welcomed by a Skidoo. A father with two boys. Immediately after the police arrived. We were welcomed very friendly, they checked our paperwork. Everything alright.
Now we drive into the village and leave right after. The weather is great, but it will get really bad again. Due to the amazing and very accurate weather forecast of the German Weather Service, two hurricanes are expected. One will start on Friday. Until then, we are planning to have made a good part of the section towards Lavrentia.
Anyway, we are trying to reach a settlement before Lavrentia. If we can’t make it, we will have to stay in the cars during the hurricanes.
Let’s see how bad the section will be.

March 01, 2010: 136th short message (07:06 p.m. CET)
3 a.m. We are progressing well. We just finished a little pass behind Jandrekinot and slept for three hours. We are already driving again because we have to make use of the weather. We are winding between two little mountain ranges and crazy snow drifts that are hard as concrete.
Current position: N 64°58.172‘ / W 172°25.621‘
The team is doing well.

OverkillZJ
03-02-2010, 05:12 PM
Wow - crazy about the seal holes too...

BlueGerbil
03-04-2010, 03:17 PM
March 02, 2010: 137th short message (09:45 p.m. CET)
Bad, bad.
Last night, after we heard a clicking noise from the left rear, we noticed that four of five stud bolts had fallen off. On closer inspection we realized that the stud bolts on the right side were also loose, just like the ones on F2. All bolts became loose in the track extensions, they swerved. But we need them, because the manufacturer, the original company who did the modifications, drilled the holes for the beadlock’s tube in the wrong place of the rim. All of that, having to take the tires down and putting them back on in the snow, exchanging the spare wheel, etc. caused us 12 hours of work under hardest terms. At around 7 p.m. a blizzard started. Bad, bad, bad.
Additionally, a stench arose in F2, which smelt like rotten eggs. We cleared out the whole car (you cannot imagine how tough this is under these terms). There was snow in/under/above/on the car, in the clothes, in the equipment, everything covered in snow. Finally we noticed that the battery in the back on the right side had a short-circuit, was very hot and threatened to explode. Therefore we removed it.
I cannot write anymore at the moment. We’re wiped out now. The storm is blowing again but we´re ready to depart. Outside it’s hard to bear. Some of us were developing frostbites on their face and hands. We took care that there were no unprotected places and we wore all protective clothing we have.
We hope to continue. Snowdrifts within minutes. Crazy.


March 03, 2010: 138th short message (06:26 a.m. CET)
11 a.m. Are driving for quite a while at 5-10 meters sight. Only the GPS navigates.
But we have to continue. The blizzard now is just the foretaste of the two low-pressure systems which are expected to be here no later than two days from now. We try to stay on an old Vestichot track. At the moment we have 1,300 l gasoline and food for 14 days with us. In terms of figures we could endure the storms for 14 days in the tundra with the engine running non-stop. Additionally four days worth of food for an emergency, excluding an indoor heater by Webasto. After that it will be very hard to continue, because the lows will bring snow.
The team is doing well and strong. No permanent damage due to frostbites. Everybody warmed up again and has their feeling back in the places where frostbites have been.
4 p.m. No chance to do anything right now. We can’t see anything. Tough blizzard. There is no possibility to continue. We have parked the cars next to each other and placed a tent over the front of the cars to protect the engines.
We are going to eat something now and then lay down. Hopefully the storm will slow down at night, then we’ll continue.
Right now we are about 60 kilometres from Lorino at N 65°09.595 / W 172°12.403.
The iridium works. We can be reached via telephone, fax and e-mail. Everything is fine. Hopefully we won’t be stuck here forever.

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March 03, 2010: 139th short message (07:16 p.m. CET)
4 a.m. It is still storming madly. By now, the snowdrifts around us are like a sandcastle. Without taking the wind into consideration, it’s a severe cold of about -30°C. With this wind this could easily be -40°C or lower. We can only take the gloves off for a few seconds. Just now we had to - among other things - refuel and wrap the air intake socket with cloth. We had to cover it with cloth because otherwise snow would get in, and that wouldn’t be good for the engine heating system. This entire procedure is crazy under these conditions. Within seconds you are covered in swirling snow, icicles form on you eyelashes as if they wanted to grow all the way to your chin.
Right when we stepped out of the cars I noticed a burnt smell. Immediately we started to look for its source. I remembered this situation in Jakutsk where we were also in the middle of a blizzard. Back then, ice blocked the fan engines and they burned through. When we opened the hood of F2 we noticed that this was the case here as well. Once again, F2 causes us work before we can continue.
For now we carved the cars in snow, covered the entire lower part with snow. This will not be any fun when we have to get back out of it. Boy, oh boy!
Apart from that, the vehicles work, even though they are not completely air tight (in a snow storm like that, snow gets inside through every little gap/seal – just like in the desert, the sand also gets everywhere).
Other than that, the team is doing well, all is okay.
Our position is still the same: N 65°09.549 / W 172°12.404


March 04, 2010: 140th short message (08:31 a.m. CET)
Captured in the blizzard, we are sitting tight.
It’s not really that nice and takes a lot of nerves. The storm is pulling on the vehicles, the protection, the constructional systems. We hardly see anything, our clothes are wet, partly frosted, the feet are cold, the insides of the car where we change our heavy clothing is rather small. And whoever might think that we are lazily sitting in the car for 30 hours now, is badly mistaken.
First, the temperature of F2 rose. Currently F2 is without a fan because we were not able to repair it in this storm. Then, one after another, the indoor fans of both cars gave out. This was very aggravating because this was the last option to cool the engine of F2 down; and it was also starting to get damned cold in F1.
After removing the glove compartment, we noticed that the fans were completely covered with snow – despite the fact that we completely sealed the air intakes with cloths. Ice and snow got into the fans and threatened to block them. In my head I already started to dislocate my joints in order to acrobatically climb from my driver’s seat over Victor, the passenger’s seat, between the computers, etc. And dive head-first into the foot space. Just like this and while the blood started to flood into my brain, I wanted to remove the fan. But Victor had a better idea.
In the meantime it had gotten really cold in the car (because the cooler for the engine was off), we had turned on the Webasto heaters. It was releasing roaring heat and it is so genius that we used two curing tube extensions (which I had brough to Egvekinot just in case) and Victors idea to divert the air jet right onto the heater unit inside the dashboard. This way, the ice melted within minutes and the fan was working again, just like the heater. After using the same method on the second vehicle, the temperature of F2’s engine can be regulated again.
By now, we also use the hot-air jet of the Webasto heater to heat our water. It won’t boil this way, but it gets really hot. Amazing.
Besides that there is always the anxiety that the next component won’t last. The snowdrifts pile up. We have to dig out F2 from the snow every other hour, because otherwise we wouldn’t be able to open the doors again. We scrape the ice and the snow off the insides of the doors; dislocate our feet in order to get closer to the upper air jet. The one down below is too weak, the foot space has about zero degrees. This is not for the faint-hearted.

BlueGerbil
03-07-2010, 07:02 AM
More new photos at http://bit.ly/auCc7D[/URL ([URL]http://bit.ly/auCc7D)]
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March 03, 2010: 141st short message (01:46 a.m. CET)
7 a.m. The storm slowed down for awhile. This gave us the chance to repair the fan of F2 in five hours. We have to further protect F2 with snow and built a protection for the “restroom” (igloo style). All of it to better the conditions in which we have to refuel the tanks, even though it is still tough. We were able to improve the state of our position.
A continuation is still not possible, yet. The sight is less than ten meters.
The team is doing well, the atmosphere is good, the Russian-German friendship very strong, excellent companionship. Engines are working. Position remains unchanged.

March 05, 2010: 142nd short message (08:46 p.m. CET)
6 a.m. After the third night, on the third day, the storm finally slowed down. Less snow is in the air. The sight is about 50-60 m.
We will start to dig out the cars and defrost the axles and gear box with the Webasto hot-air jet (the oil froze; we cannot start driving like that). It will take approximately eight hours. Then – if the weather didn’t change by then – we will try to continue our journey.

March 06, 2010: 143rd short message (01:29 a.m. CET)
11 a.m. We dug F1 out and are now trying to make a track. The burner-lamp doesn’t work. Even the Webasto jet that we are trying to point at the axles gets blown away by the storm. Thus we cannot heat the oil up – we have to try it like this.
The sight remained at about 50 meters. Hopefully we will be able to “break out”.
2 p.m. We started.


March 06, 2010: 144th short message (05:46 a.m. CET)
The break-out succeeded. We fight our way meter for meter. Just now we managed two difficult ice passages and thus reached a headland.
Current position: N 65°13.176 / W 172°12.393



March 06, 2010: 145th short message (09:39 a.m. CET)
8.30 p.m. Just now we took a break after a difficult inclined drive and a rise with many snow drifts from the shore all the way to the seafront. We drank some warm coffee and ate something.
Outside is a raging storm again and we also turn up. But this time we turn up the music. After the last few days in imprisonment and today’s break-out, we are just happy for once. We turn up the music as far as it will go and send each other one song after another via radio.
Thanks to Christopher, Rudi has a mere endless supply of songs of all kinds. And I have enough songs on the hard drive of F1 to create a hit parade. Oh well, once in a while even we need that.
Anyway, it’s awesome that we are no longer stuck in the snowstorm. Let’s see if we can manage the pass that’s ahead of us.
Three kilometers ago we noticed during a stop that F2’s upper axle bearing in the front swerves. The long-arm dangles. Oh well, as usual we use some belts and copper wire, the strength of two men, some luck, a protection against the wind, one hour, and the thing is almost welded – except that it’s only “welded” with cloth. Let’s see how long that will last.
The team is doing well. Our current position: N 65°15.710 / W 172°12.030



March 06, 2010: 146th short message (01:15 p.m. CET)
11 p.m. Awesome: During snow flurries, wind, in the middle of the night and sometimes no sight at all, we reached the pass at N 65°17.119 / W 172°13.385


March 06, 2010: 147th short message (11:56 p.m. CET)
We will stop now to get some sleep.
Current position: N 65°20.164 / W 172°12.642


March 07, 2010: 148th short message (01:33 a.m. CET)
9 a.m. The weather is better. We can see around 60-80 m, less wind, less snow.
Now, after some hours of sleep, we will continue.
Our position: N 65°20.891 / W 172°12.383
We just met two hunters with a russian snow mobile, who were pulling a hunting boat made from walrus skins. Awesome, but at the same time it’s crazy that they can actually go in the water with this. The person using it must be very light; the paddles are hardly 10 cm wide. Interesting how they also want to pull seals in there.
12.30 p.m. We are approaching Lorino. Severe snow drifts complicate advancement. Again and again we have to uncouple the F1 trailer, make a track with F1 and sand sheets, load everything, attach the trailer, and continue.
Current position: N 65°23.002 / W 172°11.084


March 07, 2010: 149th short message (05:01 a.m. CET)
At N 65°24.934 / W 172°09.521, we just arrived at a refuge for fishermen. There we met two hunting parties from Lorina who are hunting seals. Warm welcome. Now we have about another 25 km to Lorino. We take a short break, then we have to refuel and then we will fight our way again.

March 07, 2010: 150th short message (07:26 a.m. CET)
6 p.m. We arrived at a spiritual place of the Chukots. Our position is N 65°27.359 / W 172°06.597. At this place on the narrow headland, bones of whales are sticking up into the air for meters.
They were erected here as a spiritual memorial. Sacrifices are made here, as Victor explains to me. That’s what we do. As a representative for all of us, Victor goes to the bones with good food – our favorite chocolate, bread, etc. – and gives it to the gods as appeasement. We will see if it helps. When Victor climbs back into the car and sits for a moment, his knife, which he had placed tightly in the dashboard right in front of him, falls into the foot space. Actually this isn’t possible.
Even if you pull on it you can’t get it loose and he didn’t even touch it. Strange. This was the first time that it fell down and he thinks it’s a sign that the gods have seen us and said okay.
Now Rudi gets out of the car as well, wants to see the place by himself. He is standing there for a while, facing away from us, looking into the far distance.
Maybe this is really a magical place.
By now it is dark. Nobody says anything. Neither in the car, nor via radio. Everyone is in thoughts and somehow it is as if the expedition stood still in everyone’s minds as well for a moment.
I will get some sleep here.



March 07, 2010: 151st short message (09:00 a.m. CET)
The last 5 km were really tiring. We had to uncouple and attach the trailer about 40 times, made a track, drove back, etc. But now we reached the utter end of the headland at N 65°29.027 / W 172°04.992. This means that only 15 km are left until Lorino. We have to drive 1-3 km over sea ice in order to get onto the other headland. But this depends on the ice situation. We won’t go about it at night. We wait for daylight,
Team alright, fuel reserves okay. The engine of F1 stutters due to problems with its fuel supply. At the next opportunity we will have to clean the fuel pump. Additionally we have had an overheated servo steering; air in the system. When we weld the axle of F2, we also have to repair this.
We lay down to sleep. It was a tough day.

BlueGerbil
03-10-2010, 12:31 PM
March 08, 2010: 152nd short message (06:56 a.m. CET)
8 a.m. We started. 15 km on ice and a headland lie between us and Lorino. We hope that we’ll make it today.
4.30 p.m. After eleven days in snow and ice – on a track which, according to our information, has never been covered by cars, let alone with trailers and of one’s own accord, four men depending on themselves – we just reached Lorino. Considering that many people didn’t think we could make it, we are more than just a little pleased.
5.30 p.m. After an affectionate greeting with many children, the registration and check of the papers, we are going back on the road and heading towards Lavrentia now. 43 km.
Current position: N 65°32.323 / W 171°16.683


March 08, 2010: 153rd short message (12:56 p.m. CET)
Midnight. We reached the suburbs of Lavrentia. Currently we are three kilometers outside of the city on a hill (current Position: N 65°35.577 / W 171°04.660) and decided to stay here for the night, drive to the city tomorrow morning.
At this point I would like to thank Valeriy, a great guy. A man who doesn’t care that others thought he’s crazy when he decided to accompany the expedition.
Thank you for helping us out. We liked to travel with you, you have been a great fellow, tough and reliable. Thank you for your cheerful nature and your high spirits! Valeriy will now go back to Providenia and Konstantin Savva will take his place in the team. Therefore the team remains equally parted in Russian/German team members.



March 09, 2010: 154th short message (02:19 a.m. CET)
We will drive into the city now. From here to Uelen it is another 80 km linear distance. We will check up on the cars for the next 2-3 days and try to drive towards Uelen at the end of the week.

Find more pictures at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=152000&id=41595873841&ref=mf
http://photos-g.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs489.ash1/26737_350491443841_41595873841_3620734_2514396_n.j pg
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs509.snc3/26737_350491463841_41595873841_3620736_3363985_n.j pg
http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs509.snc3/26737_350491648841_41595873841_3620757_21136_n.jpg
http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs509.snc3/26737_350491608841_41595873841_3620753_6869023_n.j pg
http://photos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs489.snc3/26737_350491598841_41595873841_3620751_1100661_n.j pg

BlueGerbil
03-15-2010, 12:39 PM
March 10, 2010: 155th short message (08:16 p.m. CET)
We received a very warm welcome here in Lavrentia. Immediately after we drove into the city, the head of administration welcomed us. They organized everything for us, a small apartment with kitchen, a warm box in which we can repair the cars (partly we already got some things done, e.g. welding of the front axles, modification of the tires, changing batteries, checking everything, etc.).
Really awesome. A very sincere welcome in this exceptional city at the end of Chukotka. We were invited to have a little presentation in the cultural center of the city tomorrow.
Currently we plan to leave for Uelen at the weekend.


March 12, 2010: 156th short message (05:59 a.m. CET)
Following up on the invitation, we visited the school today. There were about 80 children who attended our little speech. Afterwards we were invited to an excellent meal in the school’s assembly hall.
Slowly, the preparations for the safety during the Bering Strait crossing come to a final. Right now we are checking/completing the emergency equipment. The cars are almost ready. We only have to dismantle/reattach the tanks to clean the fuel pump, check/adjust the wheel bearings of the trailers, fuel up, do some grocery shopping, and then we weill try to get back on the street on Sunday morning.

...


March 14, 2010: 157th short message (11:50 p.m. CET)
We will take off towards Uelen in about three hours. A difficult track with many inclinations and five passes lies ahead of us. Furthermore there will be a narrow spot with open water from a river.
Behind us, a storm is building which puts pressure on us. A storm warning has already been given to the administration. We hope not to be hit full on by the storm and to arrive in Uelen in 3-4 days.
Team is doing alright. From now on we can only be reached via satellite mail.

...


March 15, 2010: 158th short message (08:01 a.m. CET)
Just hit the road. Driving in darkness. Had problems with trailer of F2 and the new servo pump of F1 broke down once again. Luckily we had another one. Now it just cannot brake down again.
Another 100km to the easternmost place of Asia.



March 15, 2010: 159th short message (01:36 p.m. CET)
We left at 6.30 p.m.
On recommendation of vestichot drivers from Lavrentia, we crossed the large bay of Lavrentia – of course on ice – in a western curve. The entire distance on ice: 8 km. No problem, except for some cracks that we could easily drive around. But then, a difficult sedimentation at the shore with 800 m steep inclination.
Sensational, how the Wrangler MT/Rs clung to the snow.
Now, our position is N 65°39.811 / W 170°53.617
About 92 km to Uelen left.

BlueGerbil
03-18-2010, 03:14 PM
March 15, 2010: 160th short message (04:03 p.m. CET)
Nine hours for 14 kilometers – not bad.
Current position: N 65°44.185 / W 170°53.227
Everything is okay. 86 km to go.
............


March 16, 2010: 161st short message (00:30 a.m. CET)
8 a.m. After four hours of sleep, a lukewarm cup of coffee and a couple of cookies, we continued our drive. Our way (GPS-track which is usually used be the Vestichot supply drivers) leads us across a large plateau which is – in the distance – framed by ridges. The impression of endless vastness is amplified by dazzling light that spreads through snow, haze and sunrays.
Vanishingly small, like a “nothing”, we slowly move through this vastness with our vehicles and trailers. The speed of 2 km/h is doing the rest.

At this point we would like to say a special thank you to the administration and the “JHK”, Lavrentia’s communal service, for their help and support. Especially the provision of the two working areas in the local garages for the repair of our two vehicles was a big help.



March 16, 2010: 162nd short message (00:55 a.m. CET)
12 p.m. Are progressing well. Current position: N 65°50.593 / W 170°50.588
There’s a storm in Anadyr and Providenia, while we are driving through the most beautiful sunshine. The weather forecast – according to which the storm is supposed to pass right over us – is amazingly good. Right now we are in the midst of a high, which squeezed between two low-pressure systems. I am dumbfounded about how great the weather data of the DWD are that we receive, and completely rely on these information to a 100% in all regards.
70 km to go.


March 16, 2010: 163rd short message (05:06 a.m. CET)
4 p.m. Another damage on the fan’s engine. It slowed us down. Afterwards we entered the most difficult part of the section: a canyon that is difficult to drive and that ends in the inclination to a pass. Great, we are digging for two hours at the same spot. Difficult/tired.


March 16, 2010: 164th short message (12:01 p.m. CET)
5 p.m. Moved forwards meter for meter. But now there is absolutely no sight for the drivers. Due to the light, snow and haze, we can’t recognize any outlines anymore, even with our yellow glasses anymore. Everything is a white-blue soup. Decided to take a break and stay for the night. We will sleep for about three hours. Then we will try to drive/work for the rest of the night. Are approximately 500 meters before the first of five passes.
7.30 p.m. A horrible sound wakes me from my sleep. My engine? I pull the door open. No, everything’s fine. Then it has to be Rudi’s car. What a bummer! I jump out, stumble drowsily towards F2, fall, and then see two lights that appear behind F2: a drilled out Vestichot or one without an exhaust pipe.
Wow, man. Nobody needs a scare like that.
The bottom line is that this turned out to be good for us because a) we would have had to get up anyway, and b) the Vestichot now prepares a track, at least for a couple of kilometers before it heads towards Naschken. We can follow this track and have it a little easier. We drive in the track with one wheel and only have to shovel for the other. Once again a great coincidence.
Durrent position: N 65°54.331 / W 170°43.951
Everything alright.

BlueGerbil
03-22-2010, 06:08 PM
March 16, 2010: 165th short message (10:30 p.m. CET)

4 a.m. We were shoveling for 4.5 hours only to get out of the canyon. 12 tons of snow were relocated. ;-) We rectified the inclination. We are literally on our last legs.
60 km to go. We will take some sleep now.

8 a.m. Sunlight wakes us only to present the next nasty inclination right in front of us in the most beautiful light – no, this can’t be true.
It’s twice as long as the one from last night and just as steep – oh boy!


March 16, 2010: 166th short message (22:50 p.m. CET)

How awesome is that?
We just drove all the way up!

1.5 km later we are now located at N 65°57.574 / W 170°33.869 beneath a hill, aslope in an inclination, heading towards North. We have the most beautiful sunshine and to our right we have a wonderful view and can see the Bering Strait with Radmadov Island (Big Diomede) right in the middle, between two mountains. The inclination that we are standing on, declines all the way to the Bering Strait until it evens out in ice. Why can’t we just take turn her?

To our left we can clearly see traces from wolves. An amazing image in an amazing landscape.


March 17, 2010: 167th short message (03:30 a.m. CET)

We tackled the next pass. Right now, we are stuck below the highest point of the pass for three hours. We are shoveling with our sand sheets, uncoupling, attaching. We are busy. Additionally: F2 only turns until 4000 1/min and F1 only until 2500 1/min. After that there is only jerking and then they stall. We assume there must be dirt in the tank.

40 km to go.


March 17, 2010: 168th short message (06:09 a.m. CET)

After six hours we arrived at the highest point of the pass. The view from here is gigantic. In the distance, we can see the end of Russia, the end of Asia. The last mountains before the Bering Strait can be seen on the horizon. For the first time I can see the end of the journey though Asia.
Behind us, the sun sets and submerges everything in a sea of red/orange color. According to our map there are 30 km and a pass left.

Current position: N 66°00.786 / W 170°26.039


March 17, 2010: 169th short message (10:53 a.m. CET)

A race against time has begun. According to the weather forecast we will be hit by a storm tomorrow, Thursday, around noon. It will also bring snow. Are fighting our fatigue off. Currently we are standing in a riverbed at N 66°01.777 / W 170°17.780

After many attempts, F1 made it up the hill. Now the trailer and then F2. Along these 100 m we can only winch. Wind is starting. First gusts are already here and raise the snow. Hopefully we’ll make it and don’t have to stay for days in the storm. 22 km to go.


March 17, 2010: 170th short message (07:46 p.m. CET)

Had to stop last night at around 2 a.m. Standing, we were alright. I was hardly able to keep my eyes open. Especially now, after five hours of winching and shoveling to get out of the river. But we made it.
We agreed to sleep for 30 minutes, then we wanted to continue. Unfortunately our “night watch” – who was supposed to remain awake – fell asleep as well after (according to his own account ;-)) trying to wake me up several times.

Whatever… Just some minutes ago (6 a.m.) we woke up. We have…

beautiful weather and … the sun just starts rising behind the last Russian mountains. It looks as if it raises from the Bering Sea.
We see the end of the continent, the Bering Strait, ice, Radmanov Island – amazing.

Now we will eat some breakfast.


March 17, 2010: 171st short message (09:47 p.m. CET)

It’s a little bizarre. From our current position (N 66°02.949 / W 170°08.608) we can see “the real yesterday” (little Diomede / Alaska) for the first time.
Looks like today, but how should they know. ;-)

17 km to go.


March 17, 2010: 172nd short message (11:10 p.m. CET)

8.47 a.m. First intervisibility with Uelen. On the horizon we were able to see the houses of Uelen for a short moment.

14 km to go.


March 18, 2010: 173rd short message (00:08 a.m. CET)

10.45 a.m. After all, a race on the last few meters. This cannot be true. The storm that was supposed to be here by noon, sends messenger after messenger. The wind increases, clouds cast shadows. Menacing they arrive from all sides, seem to surround us. They seem to sink sown. We press ourselves to the ground, try to squeeze underneath them, and try not to get caught. They are snow clouds. The blizzard awaits us. In some places it’s snowing already. It’s threatening us, as it seems.

Position: N 66°05.036 / W 170°00.475
8 km to go.


March 18, 2010: 174th short message (01:26 a.m. CET)

12.30 p.m. 6 km until we arrive in Uelen. The blizzard starts. Only 40 m visibility left.


March 18, 2010: 175th short message (05:05 a.m. CET)

What a welcome, what a welcome. Many came, laughed, and were happy with us. The cars received the signatures of at least all children from Uelen ;-) and many others. Lavrentia was immediately informed that we arrived.
Our has already been arranged. We have a small room in a house of one of Victor’s friends.

The team will take a little break now. Then, as soon as possible, we will start repairing the cars and make preparations for the Bering Strait.


March 18, 2010: 176th short message (09:41 a.m. CET)

8 p.m. Parked the trailers in front of the house, found a box for the cars, ate some warm food. Are going to sleep now. We got an invitation for a speech in the school tomorrow. Additionally, we to take care of several administrative issues, etc.


Thanks to Russia

I hesitated until now, BUT it looks like we have the opportunity to arrive. 2 km to go.

On this day, the day that we arrive at the end of Russia and thus the end of Asia, I would like to write a Thank You to Russia.

“Today, personally and representative for all who have been a part of this and who will be a part of this, I bow low for the people of Russia and thank the government/administration of this country. Thank you for giving the expedition “Paris / New York – Transcontinental” the privilege to drive through your country and collect so many unbelievable experiences. I will not forget what you have offered for the PNY-expedition. It is the big heart of Russia that can give hospitality as I’ve never seen it anywhere else in the world. It is the Russian tradition, culture and people that deserve respect and reckoning.
It is a special, an extraordinary important culture.

Thank you.
Matthias Jeschke


Thanks to Uelen

Right now there are bits and pieces of words, half sentences or sometimes complete phrases running through my head.
The time has come for a few thoughts – today.

In the radio of my car are playing songs that have accompanied me for years. It is comfortably warm in the car, the mind wanders.
Every once in a while I get reminded how insignificant a few millimeters of iron sheet and glass around us are. Without the engine running, the 75° difference in temperature that we already had, wouldn’t be kept for longer than a couple of minutes.

There are probably many people who consider what we do as pointless. There will be people who smile at us and there might be people that we/I have upset during our trip to Uelen.
It could be. And hereby I would like to apologize - personally and representative - to those whom we knowingly or unknowingly upset.

If we fail the upcoming attempt of the Bering Strait crossing or not, if people vilify us or not, if people laugh about us/me or not, there is one thing that we definitely achieved: many people got to know one another, accomplished the extraordinary and were a part of a special journey. These contacts, meeting, conversations, etc. have left memories within each and every one of us. Even if only a very little piece has left an impression, is memorable – a connection of the most different cultures during the long way to the end of Asia.

Credit goes to all people, beginning in Paris, it is a journey of all of us who have been with us or helped, personally or in their thoughts, actively or passively. I hope to have given each and every one of you the feeling of gratitude. If this was not the case, I would like to apologize for this as well and would like to make up for it right now.

There are small, big, extraordinary and unbelievable efforts that the most different people have given us.
I cannot name all of the people that the project so far is indebted to. They are just too many. But representative to all who have contributed extraordinarily, I would like to tell the story of a little boy:
In a village that we drove through, he came at me. Wrapped in warm clothing, he came with his mother from somewhere through the cold just to meet us. When he arrived at my car, he gave me his hand. And when I was going to shake his hand to say hello, I noticed that he didn’t want to give me his hand, but that he wanted to give me a present. There was a small lucky charm in his thick mitten.
He wanted to give me some luck.
This little man, who was smiling from ear to ear, gave the expedition and me some luck. He might never know how happy I was about this moment, but I want everyone to know how extraordinary his effort was.
From the view of a child, waiting for strangers, with cars that you can gaze at or be afraid of, covered in thick clothing through the bone-chilling cold, going to a complete stranger, smiling at him who hasn’t done anything for it and give him a present, that’s extraordinary. He didn’t know that I have two sons who haven’t seen for way too long and how much I think about them every day, how much I miss them. He didn’t know how much strength to continue I was able to take from his act. But he has made a special contribution when I got down on my knees and gratefully took the present.
As important as the effort of this little boy was, many adults have done things that touched us, that made us happy, that helped, that built bridges, that connected, that made borders and obstacles disappear.

I thank all of you.
Sincerely, Matthias Jeschke

P.S.: Current position of both vehicles and trailer since 1.45 p.m.: N 66°09.169 / W 169°48.928 = 200 m away from Uelen. We don’t know of any other vehicle that has made it all the way to Uelen from Paris by its own accord along the southern route – let alone not with trailers.



Find some photos at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=154225&id=41595873841&ref=mf

BlueGerbil
03-23-2010, 05:07 AM
Current position: N 66° 09.630 W 169° 48.928
Check Google Maps: http://bit.ly/aFilUG

March 22, 2010: 177th short message (11:20 a.m. CET)
First, the entire team would like to say Thank You for all the congratulations we received. It motivates us, it’s great. Thank you.
Regarding the weather it looks really bad at the moment. Chukotka is under control of two low-pressure systems and here, at the easternmost point, the wind changed from south to north. This, along with the low-pressure systems with storms, is well and truly raining on our parade right now.
Oh well, without the kindness of the good weather of the last days, we wouldn’t be here. Therefore we wait and prepare ourselves.
We use the time to sort and arrange the equipment, we try on our survival suits, we prepare the first aid kits, we repair and modify the technical equipment like lamps, telephones, notebooks, the wiring, etc., we break our Bunny Boots in, study maps, hold conversations with whale and seal hunters about the currents, the ice, weather and ice conditions. Furthermore we held a school and a cultural speech, received a special concert by the local dance group with traditional dances, took a shower, etc.
By the way, the bad weather is really controlling the entire of Chukotka at the moment. Almost all flights are cancelled.
Even flights from Moscow are unable to land in Anadyr. They were redirected to Magadan and then send back. Many people in the different villages, cities, etc. cannot come forth. They are waiting for connecting flights.
Once again, waiting is necessary – and that’s not easy. It costs just as much nerves as the actual driving. Well, let’s see.
By the way, Rudi is working on his Russian language skills and Victor is organizing like a pro again.
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tupperwgn
03-29-2010, 11:57 PM
Unreal!! Congrats and good luck for the rest of your trip!!! whats a projected route through alaska/Yukon/British Columbia?

BlueGerbil
03-31-2010, 02:54 PM
March 26, 2010: 178th short message (05:08 a.m. CET)

Good days are different.

Unexpectedly we had to leave our accommodation the day before yesterday because the person with whom we lived up until now, wanted to take a helicopter that was supposed to arrive but which didn’t arrive in the end. We only had a few hours to find a new accommodation and thus were running up and down the streets anxiously, asked people, the administration, the weather station, etc. Finally, we found a small, empty apartment.

Now – after rearranging and completely cleaning it in a heave-ho action – it is our apartment. Then, we had to move the same night. All of our equipment, tools, clothes, sleeping-bags, shoes, the whole rescue equipment, etc. – just everything – had to be moved. First we carried as much as each of us could take and walked to the other end of Uelen. Then a driver of a Russian Buran that also had a skid trailer came and offered to help us. Then the children came and in the end we were surrounded by people who held the things on the skid in place, accompanied us, carried things, talked and helped, etc.

Anyway, the move means more privacy for the team. Everyone has its own sleeping area now (or something similar to that). We have a table and a ceramic piece that was supposed to be a toilet bowl with a spray flushing. Oh well, at least we don’t have to carry water for the toilet.

Instead we have to carry fresh water which gets delivered to the outside and which we have to carry inside the apartment in buckets.

But much more that this little story annoy me the processes in connection with the US-authorities in Moscow. You can really get a flash because of their mindset and behavior. Concerning this matter, yesterday was once again a really sh*tty day. After receiving a nice letter on behalf of an American supervisor, we had to react fast.

The US-authority called Victor Burstein, the most deserving of all who helped us, without whom the expedition with American vehicles NEVER would have reached Uelen, to Moscow, to clarify some documents. Yesterday, these people actually asked for evidence to prove the existence of the expedition. You won’t believe that this is true. I was very upset about this.

Therefore, Victor is now traveling from Uelen!! To Moscow because the American Embassy is actually AMERICA. But nobody cares that the vehicles are American vehicles.

It’s strange that on the other hand we receive more and more inquiries by American magazines and newspapers who want to publish and describe the historic accomplishments of the expedition with the “oh so great American vehicles”. I cannot answer because it makes my stomach churn if I only think about how we have been let down by an American partner, how we hung in there despite it, how Victor has to crawl to Moscow now, etc.

Meanwhile we prepare ourselves and the vehicles and were also able to take a decent shower in the heating factory (even though I was a little bit surprised that Rudi wanted to take a shower again. He was able to enjoy a shower just a couple of days ago ;-)).






March 26, 2010: 179th short message (05:52 a.m. CET)

Don’t give up and make the impossible possible.

Together with some very very special supporters and friends, Victor is in an airplane on his way to Moscow. He is a hero. Nobody except for him, the great people who supported us in Russia and the EE-Office including the Flugbörse in Germany, could have done this. Traveling from Uelen to Moscow in only two days.

Boy, I am so mad at some US-bureaucrats.



http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash1/hs459.ash1/25246_375859248841_41595873841_3720829_1338625_n.j pg

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BlueGerbil
04-11-2010, 11:15 AM
March 31, 2010: 180th short message (09:11 p.m. CET)
Uelen surely is different from any other village that we have visited/driven through until now. It seems that time, language, habits and life take different ways here. Life literally happens on the streets here…
We received three invitations. Three visits with people/families that couldn’t have been more different, three experiences with impressions that can make you thoughtful.
Other than that, the days pass while we work on the vehicles. We relieve the cars from as much weight as possible, modify the tanks, change the luggage racks, open the roofs to make room for an emergency exit, mount the outboard engines, arrange the components of the lifting system, prepare the hydraulics, repair damages that occurred on our way from Lavrentia to Uelen, and so on…
By now the storm, which brought icy northern winds and a windchill factor of -40°C, has decreased. It controlled Uelen for the last few days and took everything but the kitchen sink. At least now we no longer have to wear hats and jackets when we are in our apartment. And until now thousands of ice crystals have blocked our view but finally a few centimeters have melted away from the windows.
I also sent a couple of pictures from the modifications in the garage, which has been built right on the beach. When we are lying underneath the cars, we are sort of also on Uelen’s beach.
Other pictures show chukot food and wood craft.
............


April 1, 2010: 181th short message (01:37 a.m. CET)
How unusual.
I asked Victor to take the train from outside into Moscow on Sunday night instead of Monday morning. He arrived in Moscow on Monday morning at around 7 a.m. To get to his meeting with the German Embassy, he had to take the underground line. Only one hour later a bomb exploded on that same line.
Via my office we were promptly notified about the terrorist attack and were very worried. Also, because at that time we were not able to contact Victor via telephone. Later we heard that his cell phone was stored at the gate of the German Embassy. Everything is fine – guardian angels and good spirits seem to be with Victor nonstop at the moment.
How positive.
This morning we had a great start of the day. First we received extraordinarily good news from an authority in the United States, then Victor called to let me know that his meeting with the US-Embassy went great and then – almost like a coronation – we received a letter by the Russian administration, granting the PNY-expedition to officially leave Russia via the “non-border point” Uelen.
We appreciate the cooperation and would like to sincerely thank all involved people, ministries and authorities.



April 1, 2010: 182nd short message (10:14 a.m. CET)
How annoying. Why should a day ever be completely good?
Some agreements don’t seem to matter all that much. Today, the women whom we rented the apartment from called and told us that we have to leave the apartment, even though we cleaned the whole apartment, fixed the water pipe in the kitchen and repaired the toilet, additionally to the agreed payment. Is that woman crazy? We have an agreement for a whole month. Boy, things like this annoy me so much.
Look like she is trying to take advantage of us. Especially, because – after I was really agitated – she offered us on the telephone to remain in the apartment if we paid the triple amount.
Whatever. We will not leave the apartment before the end of our month and thus are expecting – for the first time in Russia – troubles. Hopefully there are some people in Uelen or St. Petersburg where she lives who make her understand that this is not right.
The good news:
Today, we mounted and started the first Tohatsu Outboard engine for the first time after 1.5 years in which they have been transported (unprotected, in a lying position, standing, shaking-dust-and-coldness, on trailers, several rearrangements, ice and snow). At the second ignition, it worked. It’s just amazing. Let’s hope that the second outboard engine will do the same tomorrow.



April 2, 2010: 183rd short message (11:47 a.m. CET)
Last night we were invited to join the audience during a dancing rehearsal of an Eskimo group. We were excited about a little mongoloid boy who learned a lot on those two hours of dancing.
We were able to fix the bad situation with the landlord in that we can stay in the apartment until the end of the agreed month to the agreed conditions. It was very difficult and cost a lot of nerves, but oh well.
Today we have a new problem. The GPS Spot emergency system doesn’t work and the awesome people from the manufacturing company are not capable or willing to call back, let alone find a solution for this problem. We (the expedition) were only planning to rely on it in the case of a necessary rescue mission. I am anxious to see how they want to fix this – anyway, it is unnecessary like a struma when things like this don’t work and especially if you have to sit at home all day as if you didn’t have other things to do, just because those guys can’t call back as discussed.
At least Rudi didn’t let grass grow under his feet. He visited the local power and heat supply station with the video/photo equipment and had someone explain to him how it worked. He was allowed to inspect the technology that keeps most everything alive. Nice men are there who will welcome us anytime. Especially Slava, the 70-years old chief-heater who looks like 50-60 and has muscles like a 40-years old bodybuilder, is very outgoing. Once and again we have been sitting together, drank some tea, listened to his story; sometimes no one says a word and everyone is in his own thoughts.
The living situation here is unique and special, here, on this two-rows-of-houses-wide piece of land between the Bering Strait and the lagoon in which Uelen is located. People adapt and live according to nature sets the course.



April 06, 2010: 184th short message (12:34 p.m. CET)
The second Tohatsu Outboard engine is working and the modifications of the vehicles in the little garage progress.
However, there are parameters that keep us from starting the crossing of the Bering Strait at the moment. On the one hand we have to wait for the customs clearance by the Russian border and customs services; and on the other hand the weather situation is anything but ideal right now.
One storm/low pressure system is followed by the next. Strong winds from north do cause a strong concentration of ice in the Bering Strait, but due to the overall weather conditions a start is not possible.
We wait.



April 9, 2010: 185th short message (11:51 a.m. CET)
If I didn’t know better, I would think the Bermuda is here. Slowly it is becoming eerie here.
First, we have to send Victor to Moscow where he only scarcely sidesteps the terror attacks. Then an earthquake happened in a close range to our location (at N 65.3 / W 170.7) yesterday morning.
We don’t know the entire context yet, but the wave that was caused by the seismic shock (which was measured with 4.7), seems to be responsible for that the ice along the coast of Uelen broke off completely in the morning hours. “Know me over with a feather!”
In order to get a better view of it we hiked for about 10 km along the crack until we were almost at “the three brothers” (a lump of rock before the cap). Interesting.
At the same time we meet some local hunters who make use of the broken ice to hunt and go fishing.

BlueGerbil
04-13-2010, 02:01 PM
April 12, 2010: 186th short message (06:41 a.m. CET)

Waiting, waiting, waiting. We are condemned to wait.

Currently we have extremely bad weather.

There’s a storm and it’s snowing for days as if Mother Holle was hopping mad. Furthermore, one low-pressure system is followed by another. By now there are meters high snow drifts along the houses and between the containers that are standing everywhere. In the meantime, temperatures have increased to around zero degree, everything is wet.

The cars have been finished except for the pontoons and hydraulics, but there’s no way that we can even think about starting. No one gets in or out. The storms control Chukotka. Not even the Russian Vestichots (track vehicles) are driving.

By now even the water trucks that supply Uelen with fresh water from a well that is about four kilometers away, cannot drive there anymore due to the huge amount of snow. Thereupon the tap water (kitchen, heater, etc.) has been changed to salt water since yesterday. The trucks can only drive a couple hundred meters onto the frozen lagoon and get salt water through a drilled hole for the power and heat supply station.

The days for the waiting – by now decimated – team members are characterized by discipline. It’s first priority and protects us. Rudi and I stick to it with grimly sternness in order to hang on despite all impressions. However, that doesn’t change the things that are happening around us and which we cannot influence. By now we had to part company by another team member. When I will be writing the book one day, maybe I can explain better what happened, what put a strain on us, what hardships we had to see and experience, how the things happened that were meant to happen – or were not meant to happen.
..........

April 12, 2010: 187th short message (12:15 p.m. CET)

Due to the strong southern storm, the ice at Uelen’s shore and along the Cape drifted away 1-2 km from the shore after it broke off of the shorefast. It “anchors” menacingly, seems to observe us just like we do with it. If the wind turns, the crack is closed again within hours.

There are hundreds of seagulls and ducks cavorting in the crack right now. We have no idea where they have been hiding. Except for dogs and culled seals, we only noticed a few ravens the entire time.



April 13, 2010: 188th short message (12:03 p.m. CET)

Yesterday evening, for a very short moment, there has been some ease in the storm.

It has been deceptively pleasant when the wind abruptly faded, the sky opened up, the remaining light of the day illuminated the water channel at around 8 p.m. The water purled, ducks and seagulls swam. The lashing, ice-cold northern wind was back again during the night and this morning. The channel no longer exists. It’s all ice. The water with about 35 gram salt per liter froze within 12 hours. Ice from the North keeps pushing enormously.

At the same place where the tearing edge has been just yesterday, there were sitting about ten hunters with their guns leveled this morning that were waiting for the seals to stick their noses through the breathing holes or the cracked ice into the air. Watch out.

BlueGerbil
04-18-2010, 03:15 AM
April 14, 2010: 189th short message (10:16 a.m. CET)
Situation gets worse. Weather is still characterized by storm, snow and snow drifts. Difficult times. Brown saltwater at every occasion puts the icing on the cake.
Our freshwater resources: about 40 liters left. Let’s see.
..........



April 15, 2010: 190th short message (11:33 a.m. CET)
By now we know how prisoners must feel. Hence we must behave well. They turned off our telephone for five days now (No, not what you are thinking. We did pay our bills right away, every time.) and this morning, the saltwater supply gave out because of a damage. Now the heater isn’t working either. Oh well, luckily we at least have our thick Mammut sleeping bags.
Let’s see.

BlueGerbil
05-03-2010, 03:15 PM
April 16, 2010: 191st short message (11:32 a.m. CET)
After intense studies of the weather conditions, we made use of a very little weather frame (ca. eight hours) right before the beginning of a new storm and made a tough six-hour ride, that led me to my limits, with a snow mobile and sled 100 km from Uelen to Lavrentia last night to wait here for a couple of days.
Amongst others, we hereby improved our communication possibilities considerably and are not completely cut off.
The next storm began less than three hours after our arrival, snow flurries started and last.

April 19, 2010: 192nd short message (10:10 a.m. CET)
There’s a crazy storm going on ever since the night that we arrived. The hurricane doesn’t stop whipping snow across the Bering Strait, Uelen, Lavrentia, and so on. Not even for one hour. Storm and snow flurries everywhere. Tons of snow. Waiting, waiting, waiting.
Meanwhile, in the city they prepare for the arrival of a multimillionaire/billionaire who has already been in outer space and who now plans to fly from Anadyr to Lavrentia via microlight.
As far as we understood with our limited Russian, a larger airplane is supposed to bring the microlight to Anadyr in parts. There, the crew assembles it. Then the boss flies to Lavrentia with the little bird. There it gets taken apart again and packed in a Cessna. The Cessna is supposed to bring the little plane over the Bering Strait to America. Upps. Furthermore, there is a traveler on its way to Uelen who plans to cross the Bering Strait via the Chukot and Eskimo way with a hunting boat in summer.
Wee, maybe we’ll meet one of them.

...........

April 26, 2010: 193rd short message (07:08 p.m. CET)
Last Friday, during a weather frame which only lasted few hours, we flew to Anadyr with a special airplane of Chukotavia. The airplane made use of the short moment, in which there was calm weather, to make a hasty shipping of foods (amongst others) to Lavrentia.
After 1.5 months of futile waiting I decided the day before that further waiting doesn’t make sense any longer. Due to the heavy storms it is not possible for the team of the Russian authorities to arrive in Uelen, or rather to leave Uelen in a decent time frame. While we were waiting there for 1.5 months, only one single helicopter was able to fly to Uelen. We only left because we found the venturesome Skidoo driver who dared the nightly “escape” between two storms and who didn’t want to pass up this extraordinary chance. A hell of a ride. Insofar I can understand and accept the concerns by the official authorities. Meanwhile, spring storms have arrived at the Bering Strait. A crossing is completely out of question at the moment.
At the same time this means a high financial burden, as well as an interruption that takes at least several months.
For now I will go back to Germany to have some conversations and then decide how we will continue.
In order to continue, it is especially important that there is an alliance of partners who keep supporting the expedition in the future.
I would like to say thank you to the team of 2010 that has managed to proof a very very high extent of will power, endurance and courage throughout all the difficult situations we had to face. I am happy about what we achieved.
I would also like to thank the overly friendly and kind reception in Lavrentia during the last few days, especially to the administration, Victor and Marina for their heartiness, and to the staff of the well-kept accommodation where we were allowed to sleep.

SirFuego
03-20-2012, 09:28 AM
For some reason I was thinking about this trip the other day.

I doubt BlueGerbil checks this, but hopefully he's subscribed and gets e-mail notification...

I saw that the last update here was the same as the last update on the website. Given that it's been almost 2 years, I assume the project is pretty much dead? Or are there plans to try again to cross the Bering Strait in the next few years?