42RE rebuild

[death-mobile]

Driveshafts and transfer case are out, and the trans is almost out. This is my first attempt at rebuilding a trans. I bought the ATGS manual, but if anyone has any links to any pictures of the process it would be most helpful.

I also don't know how far to get into it. My only problem is a severe shudder, which I think i narrowed down to the torque converter. I bought a new converter and in the process of taking things apart, I figured I might as well rebuild the trans since prior to the shudder it was slipping from 1st to 2nd. More or less I can get away with just putting new clutch packs in it right? There is no metal in the pan and other than those two problems it seems sound. 110K on a 2000 trans.

I'll be doing this on my downtime from work, so it will take a while, but any help would be great and I'll keep updating as I go along. I'll also be putting a new chain in the transfer case and possibly the SYE from tom woods.

Should be fun as the final product will give me much piece of mind.

[zj95maxx]

take picssssss

[death-mobile]

I will. I would like someone who has had a late model 42RE apart to share some pics with ME. I'm pretty sure everything will go well though. If anyone knows anything that goes above and beyond removing, cleaning, and reinstalling the pieces I take out of it, please let me know.

[1fox2go]

While you have the trans apart you can put a mild shift kit in it, as well as drill the valve body so it flows trans fluid in park, as opposed to just neutral

i cant remember if the 42re would allow you to drill the valve body out more to have it flow better, something to look into

[death-mobile]

I would obviously need some sort of guidlines to do so. I was considering IPT's reconditioned valve body which has the transgo shift kit installed in it, and they tweaked the body in ways of which you speak. Downfall-it's 400 bucks and I'm already using their rebuild kit which cost me 375. I'll probably buy the shift kit alone for 99 dollars and install it myself. I'd like to keep the repairs to a minimum, since that is exactly what it is right now...a repair. I spent the extra money on performance rebuild parts, but my HD torque converter was inexpensive at around 100 dollars, and my only other cost right now is 120 dollars for a case of amsoil atf. I'm excited to tear into it though.

[1fox2go]

I will find out the needed info for you to do so,

I would recommend you build the trans as strong as you can and do as many mods as you can since you are already in there

[Sudz]

side note: vent mod (http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/bbs/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=TJ&Number=39527&Forum=All_Forums&Words=42RE&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=12051&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=2&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post39527) - do this while you have it out :smt045

[nathaniel]

I had a shudder problem that was caused by one of the solenoids not working properly something to look into as well.

[death-mobile]

Hmm..which solenoid was it? I normally used nonsynthetic b&m trick shift, and at about 100k, I decided to do my trans a favor and use chrysler atf+4...well...after putting it in, I got a horrible shudder. The reason I don't think it is a solenoid is because it is particular to the position of my jeep. If I am on a hill, it will almost always shudder on take off, and it will also shudder if I really stomp on it from a dead stop. I'm guessing your's shuddered more often than mine.

As far as the vent mod, NICE!

Any info you can get me for drilling out passages would be cool, but I decided to go with the rebuild kit for 120.00 from ebay, instead of the IPT performance kit for 375.00 The way I figure it is, if my trans lasted 100k of wheeling with 33's, and all i have is this shudder, and some slight slippage from 1st to 2nd...a fresh rebuild anyway will be sweet.

[death-mobile]

I was originally going to just fix my trans, then I got caught up in all these performance packages. Due to the price difference and the amount of HP that I actually put out...I'm going with the cheapo kit, however I'll be putting a transgo shift kit with a couple of odds and ends from one of these companies to fix things like keeping flow before being put into reverse and maybe a stronger band.

http://www.apsprecision.com/

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/chryslerautorwd.shtml#main

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=180101323592&rd=1 -the one I'm ordering

[1fox2go]

Drilling the valve body like I mentioned earlier, It actually was a kit that I purchased from a trans shop here locally I want to say something like 20 bucks? Anyway it came with the template on where to drill and what size bit to use, replacement valve, and some check balls, if your interested I can pick up the kit and mail it to you

[slim616]

I need to do the exact same thing to my tranny(165000). It has a real hard time starting from a stop in drive but does fine in 1st and second. Thanks for the links and if you can definitly post some pics.

[spykosshow]

I'm currently waiting for my rebuild kit off ebay to get here so I can do this to mine. I'm going to do that shift kit while it's out as well. I'm also going to replace the oil pump while it's out and all the seals.

[death-mobile]

Wouldn't you normally replace all the seals anyways? I just realized that the kit from ebay is so much cheaper because they don't include the steels, which you can resuse anyways. They also use some credible clutches.

[slimed8]

i just bought a 96 grand i beleive it is a 42re does not move at all metal in pan.just wondering 1st of all if anyone knows if i can swap that for a 90 xj 5 speed without too much computer problems(everything else should be easy.2nd if stick is out can i put a different t-case in it(i have a full time now)3rd how much of a beating can these 42re take.any info. would be great

[1fox2go]

yea you can swap tcases

and depending on how you wheel and what all you do to the trans is how much abuse it can take really, keep in mind its no aw4

[death-mobile]

Man. What tooling do I actually need? The manual has a list of about 25 chrysler transmission tools. I need a spring compressor for the clutches, I know that, but what else do I absolutely need? Swamp Boy wanna chime in?
I'm basically just taking the clutches and bands out and replacing with new. The overdrive will just be removed, and the valve body will just be removed and replaced with one of those fancy ones from either ipt or aps, haven't decided yet. As far as the rest of the trans, I'll reseal the servos but that is probably as far as I will go. What shall I be needing to do such a thing?

[death-mobile]

Ok, so I now have an EMPTY case. Everything is out. It was actually much easier than I thought, and I had all the tools I needed. I'm not going to go too far into the overdrive, so I won't need anymore tools. Here are some pics as I was going along.

[death-mobile]

VERY VERY odd. Now if you look at the pins I removed from the rear of the case, one of them didn't have any seals on it. I don't know if this is supposed to be this way, but considering it had grooves for them, I think it should have.

I also noticed some hot spots on the rear drum. I don't know if this should be replaced so I'm going to call wayne from APS and see what he thinks.

[death-mobile]

My next move is to disassemble the oil pump, and other subassemblies to check things out. I am resealing everything in the front half of the case. I have new clutches and I'll be reusing the old steels. New front band, and a new custom valve body from aps. If I'm feeling crazy I might go into the overdrive further than the first set of clutches, but I doubt it. :)

There was EXTREME clearance in the 2nd gear clutch pack which would explain my problem I had. So i feel good knowing that as of right now everything looks good and solid and once back together it should be great.

[DJJordache]

damn nice pics! I might try and this myself for when mine decides to die, but I have a spare 42re in my garage already that I can rebuild/experiment with beforehand.

[Cue-Ball]

Looks like a nice case of ATF in the background, wonder where you got that:D :D

[death-mobile]

I'm a supporter, what can I say

[spykosshow]

So what tools did you need thus far? I didn't think it'd be more than some snap ring pliers and normal sockets and the like.

[death-mobile]

Yea that's it. Some snap ring pliers, a C-clamp for the servos, a slide hammer (homemade with a long bolt and an old wrist pin), and some sockets. You will also need a sharp pick to replace the seals.

[Cue-Ball]

I'm a supporter, what can I say


And I appreciate it. Let me know if there is anything else I can do to help.

Dirk

[death-mobile]

Got the oil pump and all the gears apart. The gears look good, however...the oil pump shaft took a beating from the shuddering. I dunno what is from the manufacturing process and what is from abuse, maybe someone can chime in?

The splines have some major wear, but overall they look good, no chips or anything.
The shaft is rough, but maybe some scotch-brite will clean it up?

[death-mobile]

so what do you guys think of that oil pump? re-use it?

[Cue-Ball]

What is the cost of a new pump?

I tried to save a few bucks when I did my stroker and we reused the water pump that came when i bought the engine, only had 5,000 miles on it and looked fine. So took my other pump back and got my $40-50 bucks back.

Well a week or so later there I was stuck on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck to pick me up and bring me back to the office where I had to swap out the water pump in the parking lot with hand tools.

Depending on price I would just replace parts that are questionable, especially while you have it all apart and have other transportation.

[J B]

The scoring on the pump looks like it could be buffed out, but I think I'd toss that shaft. That spline wear will only get worse...and the rest of it doesn't look that great either.

[death-mobile]

Think so? How much for a new pump alltogether? I'd hate to risk a full rebuild on something like that, but I am hesitant due to the fact it probably costs 300 bucks.

[Cue-Ball]

Don't forget there are a couple of people on the board that work for auto parts stores and are able to give hook ups on prices, so that might be an option.

[death-mobile]

Well before I go the junkyard route for 50-60 bucks, It would be sweet if someone could offer me a good deal on a new oil pump :)

[Cue-Ball]

I will check with Scott tomorrow and see if he can get you a deal on one.

[death-mobile]

Thanks for the help man.
The entire pump is getting replaced regardless, but since I'm going through the entire trans and adding all this new fancy shit, I figured it would be a better route to put an entire new oil pump along with the brand new torque convertor instead of scooping one up from the junkyard.

[spykosshow]

Hey man, got a question for you. When you went to remove the output shaft from that bell like thing (the thing in the middle).........

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2959&stc=1&d=1186873108



the front clutch pack just slid out, right? The last 42re I took apart I seem to remember it just came out, but with the one I'm working on right now the input shaft section won't come apart from the output section.

[spykosshow]

Oh and if you have Carquest near you, it's only 85 bucks for a new oil pump.

[death-mobile]

Ill have to look into that carquest thing. I thought it would be like 300 for a new pump.
The sections should come apart easily. The manual tells you to remove them together and what usually happens is they try to seperate as your pulling them out. Sometimes the ATF works like a suction cup and things cling together. Take a picture of what your doing, it would help better explain what your workin with.

[spykosshow]

Ill have to look into that carquest thing. I thought it would be like 300 for a new pump.
The sections should come apart easily. The manual tells you to remove them together and what usually happens is they try to seperate as your pulling them out. Sometimes the ATF works like a suction cup and things cling together. Take a picture of what your doing, it would help better explain what your workin with.

I went into carquest to pick up my pump they had set aside, but the guy on the phone that I talked with was a dumbass and pulled a motor oil pump. They don't even carry a tranny oil pump. I even told the guy 'for a 42re transmission'.

I guess the dealership might?

EDIT - Dealer wants 180.50 for the whole assembly. HA!

[spykosshow]

Sweet, since I'm in a local club the dealership gives me huge discounts. I got one for 120 bucks.

[death-mobile]

I'll just get one from a junkyard. Anyone feel I should do otherwise?

[death-mobile]

Nevermind, I ordered one from a trans shop. 108 for a reman. Good thing is that includes brand new gears. Just in case anybody didn't know this, when you get a reman, or even a new oil pump you have to align it. They make a tool for it, but you can just use a big strap and make sure the edges of the two sides are perfectly aligned. Even if they are 1/32" off it could cause some problems. This being said, they don't torque the bolts from the factory because they assume you are going to align it yourself.

I'll probably get one of those pool filter straps and snug it around it before I run the bolts in.

[spykosshow]

Nevermind, I ordered one from a trans shop. 108 for a reman. Good thing is that includes brand new gears. Just in case anybody didn't know this, when you get a reman, or even a new oil pump you have to align it. They make a tool for it, but you can just use a big strap and make sure the edges of the two sides are perfectly aligned. Even if they are 1/32" off it could cause some problems. This being said, they don't torque the bolts from the factory because they assume you are going to align it yourself.

I'll probably get one of those pool filter straps and snug it around it before I run the bolts in.


Oh? Could you elaborate on the alignment deal?

[death-mobile]

you need to strap it together. the edges the two pieces must be exact before you run the bolts in. the strap goes around the circumference of the oil pump, and it squeezes the outer edges together.

[death-mobile]

I ordered some stuff from APS which I'm waiting on now. The forward clutches were completely toast. Almost all metal to metal. I ended up ordering new steels since the old ones were warped. Along with that, I ordered a new sprag which should definitly be replaced regardless, and some other performance parts like a high ratio lever & aluminum accumulator with block-off rod. I'm also going to just swap my valve body for one of their custom ones with the transgo shift kit in it and some other little doodads.

More pics to come soon.

[death-mobile]

Well, compressing that forward clutch is a son of a bitch if you don't have the tooling. I put it together with a new piston seal, but I forgot the hib retaining seal, so I'm going to order the tooling to do it the right way. I'm also going to order some new snap rings since my kit didn't come with any, and I also need to get some teflon seals for the servos since the ones that came in the kit are all the ones you have to hook together, and they don't work with what I have.

ALSO, now I have to order a specific snap ring for the rear clutch, because after putting all new steels and clutches in it, I only ended up with .002 clearance and Chrysler recommends .022. So that sucks. I'll get it all together soon enough.

[Cue-Ball]

It is always something isn't it??

[spykosshow]

I'm in the same boat with the rear clutch pack being way too tight. I can barely move the clutches to line them up it's so tight. And of course, the one day that I have free to work on it all day is the one day that the parts desk is closed at the stealership.


How exactly did you measure the clearance of the rear clutch pack to determine which selective spacer to use? I know I need one of the thinner ones, but I don't know which of the two.

[spykosshow]

Hummmm, well I borrowed a nice set of calipers and measured the one that I have right now and it was .073". I guess that's the .076" that's just word down a wee bit? So I take it that it's a fair bet to go with the .060", the next smallest ring?

[death-mobile]

I had an .083" selective snap ring. And my clearance was only .002". To get it more like .025", I had to buy a .068" selective snap ring, and I also found .003" thinner steels. The combination of the two gave me .026".

[spykosshow]

I had an .083" selective snap ring. And my clearance was only .002". To get it more like .025", I had to buy a .068" selective snap ring, and I also found .003" thinner steels. The combination of the two gave me .026".


Where'd you order the the steels and selective snap ring from? I see you said APS, but I can't find them online.

[death-mobile]

http://www.apsprecision.com/

I'd also recommend just replacing your valve body with one of their bodies instead of messing with yours.

[spykosshow]

http://www.apsprecision.com/

I'd also recommend just replacing your valve body with one of their bodies instead of messing with yours.

I'm just keeping my valve body as is. I replaced three gaskets that came with my rebuild kit, but that's it.

Oh and how'd you use the magnetic gauge deal to measure the clearance? I'm trying to figure out how to determine what steels and selective snap ring to go with.

[death-mobile]

I would at least put the transgo shift kit in it though. For about 100 dollars and some work, you will extend your new transmissions life to a nice mileage instead of the lame number you'll get before you're 2nd rebuild. Plus, it's much more exciting :)

[spykosshow]

I would at least put the transgo shift kit in it though. For about 100 dollars and some work, you will extend your new transmissions life to a nice mileage instead of the lame number you'll get before you're 2nd rebuild. Plus, it's much more exciting :)


What about the second part of my post? I edited it, you must have looked at the thread before i edited it though.

[death-mobile]

What about the second part of my post? I edited it, you must have looked at the thread before i edited it though.

It shows you how to measure the clearance in the manual. If you didn't spend 15 bucks on one, I wouldn't put that tranny back in untill you do so.

In terms of using the tooling... you plant it on the edge of the drum, put the needle on the disc area, zero it, and push up on the discs and read it. You should be around the .22" area.

As far as my build goes, I'm waiting on parts from APS. I've went ahead and got some pipe taps and fittings to do the vent mod mentioned earlier. If these parts aren't here by today, I'm going to split my transfer case and replace the drive chain in the meantime. I promise I'll have some detailed pictures of putting the trans back together.

[spykosshow]

It shows you how to measure the clearance in the manual. If you didn't spend 15 bucks on one, I wouldn't put that tranny back in untill you do so.

In terms of using the tooling... you plant it on the edge of the drum, put the needle on the disc area, zero it, and push up on the discs and read it. You should be around the .22" area.

As far as my build goes, I'm waiting on parts from APS. I've went ahead and got some pipe taps and fittings to do the vent mod mentioned earlier. If these parts aren't here by today, I'm going to split my transfer case and replace the drive chain in the meantime. I promise I'll have some detailed pictures of putting the trans back together.


Where is said manual available for purchase?

[death-mobile]

side note: vent mod (http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/bbs/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=TJ&Number=39527&Forum=All_Forums&Words=42RE&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=12051&Search=true&where=bodysub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=2&newertype=y&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post39527) - do this while you have it out :smt045


Done. I hope there isn't a clearance issue in the third picture. The fitting came into the case a bit more than I hoped. I could always grind it down...guess I'll find out when I slide some shit inside it.

[Sudz]

Done. I hope there isn't a clearance issue in the third picture. The fitting came into the case a bit more than I hoped. I could always grind it down...guess I'll find out when I slide some shit inside it.
http://www.the-jersey-devil.com/bbs/images/graemlins/goodmod.gif

[spykosshow]

Done yet?

[death-mobile]

haha, no.

I'm only working on it maybe 5 minutes here and there. I keep ordering parts and running into shit anyways. I had to order a helicoil kit to tap out one of the overdrive piston retainer bolt holes in the case. That was a pain in the ass.

[nate]

Normally the snap rings are ordered as part of a rebuild kit. When we did my 47RE about a month ago, we ordered a bunch of extra stuff and just brought it back afterwards. Was easier that way.

Ordered all my stuff from ITW (Idaho Transmission Warehouse) up in Boise. Well other than the billet input shaft I got from Opie in Washington.


As for the valve body, buy the TransGo kit and build the VB up. The kit in only like $70. The VB has alot of parts, but take pics and make notes and it'll be fine. Also put a new temp sender, gov pressure sensor too. The shift solenoids good idea as well. About $175 for all of them.

[death-mobile]

Normally the snap rings are ordered as part of a rebuild kit. When we did my 47RE about a month ago, we ordered a bunch of extra stuff and just brought it back afterwards. Was easier that way.

Ordered all my stuff from ITW (Idaho Transmission Warehouse) up in Boise. Well other than the billet input shaft I got from Opie in Washington.


As for the valve body, buy the TransGo kit and build the VB up. The kit in only like $70. The VB has alot of parts, but take pics and make notes and it'll be fine. Also put a new temp sender, gov pressure sensor too. The shift solenoids good idea as well. About $175 for all of them.

Who are you telling that to? Ha. I didn't replace any sensors in my valve body, they all worked fine prior. They are easy enough to replace in chasis if they do fail.

[nate]

Sure but it's easy to do while you've already got it apart anyhow.

On my Jeep I would probably keep the old shit as well, cause I wouldn't want to waste $$ on the turd, but on the truck, it needs to be dependable.

[death-mobile]

Got the rest of the parts and made some more progress. I helicoiled one of the OD piston retainer bolt holes, then installed that, the rear drum, the band, the lever and lever pins with all new seals and gaskets. I already had rebuilt the clutch packs, so after I put the planetary section in, I went to put the clutch packs in but I dunno if they are fully seated. I wiggled them and they fell into place, but I don't know for sure because they wobble a little, and I can't remember if they wobbled a little when I took them out.

[OverkillZJ]

Looks good, you have more patience than I...

[death-mobile]

Ok I checked and I have it right. There should be about a 1/10" space between the highest part of the sungear and the ridge on the clutch drum. On to the next step then....

I think I'm actually pretty lazy, sometimes I'll go in the room...do like 5 minutes doing one thing, and then not touch it for 3-4 days. It is quite a tedious task rebuilding shit...

[death-mobile]

dudes, my camera fuckin crapped out. I'm done though. It shifts awsome. There is a lot to be aware of when doing a complete rebuild, but if you take your time and follow the manual, it is wellllll worth it. I can go 40mph in first gear now and still be under 4500rpm, its nice. Honestly, the hardest part is putting the thing back in, not to mention how nerve racking it is when you start it up.

[death-mobile]

Well, I haven't been on in a while...just thought I'd chime in saying I'm on my first service at 30,000 miles. I'll take pics of what I find in the pan (hopefully just plain atf). I'll be adjusting the bands and replacing the gov press solenoid and sensor once again. 2 3/4 turns out on the forward band and standard for rear band.

I'll also be playing with the line pressure adjustment and try to figure out why I get a governor pressure sensor input voltage high EVERY time I hit a hill for longer than 3 seconds. I since added a 150ohm resistor inline with the signal wire to keep the sensor from reading line pressure over 96lbs...but it did nothing. So...either the sensor crapped out again...or I'm pushing too much line pressure. Either way...the pan will come off...go on...and come off...and go on...ugg.

Other than this one electronic issue the last 30,000 miles have been freakin fun. The tweaks along with the transgo kit make this quite a mean tranny. If I geared down to something like 4.88...I'm pretty sure I could burn the rubber off my 33's.

[indy242003]

I got some good advice in replacing all of the electronics in the trans. A little costly, but going back in there was not an option for me. I was so done with it before I was done with it. Mine works well, shifts hard, and has been working great after my rebuild.

[death-mobile]

I changed the gov pressure sensor and solenoid, but left all the others alone. Honestly, I haven't had any issues with any of the other electronics, but it still would have felt nice to do so, although the other electronics rarely ever have issues.

[death-mobile]

I'M READY TO BURST

I just changed fluid...adjusted the bands, replaced gov press sensor and solenoid (for a 2nd time)... and STILL...P1763 when on a slight incline for more than a few seconds.

I backed the line pressure spring down to flush...and then turned in 2 1/4 turns. I added a 150ohm resistor to the signal wire AND STILL...P1763 appears.

Unless I find an answer...the APS valve body is getting trashed and I'm building my own!

[rob92xj]

You could have a wire chafing against something or the PCM not reading all sensor properly under load. If everything works fine every other time then I really doubt your problem is with the governor pressure transducer or solenoid. I have also seen the connector on the outside of trans cause problems with loose terminals. I have seen many thing go wrong with them and other shops have replaced many parts and it comes into us at the dealership and it turns out to be a simple fix.
There are a few STAR online cases for your code that does not mean there is a warranty issue or recall to be issued(sorry but a few people find out about these cases and try and have there problem warranted).

Case Number 999926294
Vehicle Issue Diagnostic trouble code present in PCM memory.;Applies to models equipped with RE type auto trans. Trouble codes P1757 / P1762 / P1763 / P1764 may be set in powertrain control module (PCM) memory.
System or Component DTC / Error Message;Automatic Transmission / Transaxle;Yes - Intermittent,Yes - Continuously
Recommendation See recommended diagnosis / repair steps listed below. Repair as required. STEP 1): DIAGNOSTIC TEST: If trouble code is present see test procedure in the applicable Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual. To test ciruit wiring for high resistance suggest use headlamp or fog lamp to place load on the circuit being checked. Circuits with high resistance may illuminate a test lamp normally but a larger lamp will be very dim. STEP 2): GOVERNOR PRESSURE SENSOR: The condition being addressed is usually caused by faulty governor pressure sensor (transducer). If diagnostic test indicates faulty governor pressure sensor replace the sensor with latest design part (56028196AD). STEP 3): DOWNSTREAM 02 SENSOR: The condition being addressed may be caused by faulty downstream 02 sensor and/or related circuit wiring. Check downstream 02 sensor and related circuit wiring. Check for short to voltage or ground. Repair as required.

Case Number 999926448
Vehicle Issue Diagnostic Trouble Code Present => Diagnose and Repair as Required.;What is the symptom or condition being addressed ? >> TCM or PCM issue / trans in limp mode / fault code issue What type of transmission or final drive concern is this ? >> Automatic transmission / transaxle - includes electrical What type of TCM / PCM trouble code issue is being addressed ? >> Mil lamp on / check engine lamp on Has the automatic transmission fluid level been checked ? >> No - auto trans fluid level will be checked before proceeding >> Yes - auto trans fluid level has been checked What model automatic transmission / transaxle is in the vehicle ? >> 42RE (4spd automatic - RWD - hydraulic shift - elec gov) >> 44RE (4spd automatic - RWD - hydraulic shift - elec gov) >> 46RE (4spd automatic - RWD - hydraulic shift - elec gov) >> 47RE (4spd automatic - RWD - hydraulic shift - elec gov) >> 48RE (4spd automatic - RWD - hydraulic shift - elec gov) What diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) are set in PCM memory ? >> P1763 - Hex $A8 = Governor Pressure Sensor Volts Too High Are any diagnostic trouble codes set in TCM or PCM memory ? >> Yes - diagnostic trouble codes are set in PCM memory Can you duplicate or verify the reported condition ? >> Yes - condition can be duplicated intermittantly >> Yes - condition can be duplicated constantly Did you perform a search for bulletins that may relate to the issue being addressed ? >> No - bulletin search will be done before proceeding >> Yes - bulletin search has been done
System or Component Customer Concern (No DTCs);Automatic Transmission / Transaxle;Yes - Intermittent
Recommendation See recommended diagnosis and repair directions provided. Diagnostic trouble code P1763 = Governor Pressure Sensor Volts Too High set in the powertrain control module (PCM). When transmission is in limp mode the relay that provides power to the solenoid group is switched off. This is normal and is designed to provide operation in one gear only. See list of recommended diagnosis / repair steps provided below. Repair as required. See applicable service manual section (8) for circuit wiring diagram and (21) for repair procedures and additional information. Most service and diagnostic manuals are available on MDS2 machine. Suggest verify the DRB diagnostic tool / Supercard / PCM are flash updated to latest release level. STEP 1): LINE PRESSURE: Condition may be caused by high line pressure. Check and adjust transmission line pressure as required. STEP 2): DIAGNOSTIC TEST: If condition persists see test procedure in the applicable Powertrain Diagnostic Procedures Manual. STEP 3): GOVERNOR PRESSURE SENSOR: If diagnostic test indicates governor pressure sensor (transducer) issue replace the sensor with latest design part (56028196AD).

Case Number K24993264
Vehicle Issue Code P1763 is setting.;Vehicle is a WJ equipped with a 4.0l engine and a 42RE transmission. The governor pressure sensor, sensor signal wire and PCM may have been replaced.
System or Component DTC / Error Message;Malfunction Indicator Light / MIL / Check Engine Light,Automatic Transmission / Transaxle;Recent Repairs
Recommendation The governor pressure sensor uses the vehicles sensor ground circuit. Try attaching a temporary jumper wire to the sensor ground circuit at the governor sensor and run it to chassis ground. The vehicles sensor ground circuit is a filtered ground circuit. The temporary jumper wire to chassis ground can not be used as the repair. The problem in the sensor ground circuit must be repaired and the temporary jumper wire must be removed.

Modification Date 02/24/06 4:34 PM

For a full view of the STAR Online case, copy the case number above and use it to look up the complete case in the STAR Online application.

Just where I start when trying to diagnose a problem vehicle that comes into the dealership I work at.

[death-mobile]

I'll check the connections outside again...but it is strange that it only happens on certain inclines. If something was loose...it would happen off-roading or on bouncy roads, this only happens when the engine is lugged under load going up a hill for an extended period of time.

For instance...there are two hills near my house that I can make the CEL come without fail. On the other hand, if I avoid those certain hills, it may never come on until I hit a new hill.

Maybe I should try backing the line pressure down even more? It is still more than two turns in. If I back it up almost a full turn, maybe that will keep the pressure low enough to keep it from setting the code?

[Eugene]

Just where I start when trying to diagnose a problem vehicle that comes into the dealership I work at.

good call, I was just thinking about doing this, except I can't use DealerConnect on my mac at home.

[rob92xj]

Turning the line pressure up really does nothing with a RE trans except messing up the controller. The shift quality is controlled by the electronic governor and governor pressure transducer readings. So backing the line pressure back down to the factory setting might fix your problem.

[death-mobile]

I'll try it. Sucks to drop the pan again after just changing the fluid. Gotta make some clean containers...

If this is the case...why don't other people that put the transgo shift kit into other 42RE's have this problem? They suggest bumping the line pressure up to their spec...not factory.

[rob92xj]

The instructions are actual a copy and paste from the instructions for a RH series transmission. When I installed the Transgo shift kit in a friend of mine trans and the 46RE in my Ram I left the line pressure where it was set at the factory.

[death-mobile]

Do you remember how far from the plate the spring was? I know what the factory spec is, but I'm curious if you remember visually.

Has anyone else had trouble with a P1763 code on a 42RE with an altered valve body? I would be one happy son of b*tch if the line pressure is just too high.

[rob92xj]

It has been awhile since I had to go through a 42 RE valvebody since our biggest problem these days are the NAG transmissions behind the 3.7L in the WK and XK's as well as the 5.7L & 6.1L Hemi's in the LX cars.

[death-mobile]

either way, i'll just back the pressure down to spec and see what it does.

[UTChavok]

So howd it turn out with the line pressure?

My 42re is in need of a rebuild and all shops around here want $1500. I have 0 transmission experience but am thinking about buying one from a junkyard and swapping it in, then rebuilding mine while its out. I have some friends in our club and what not who have messed with transmissions, not sure if anyones done a full rebuild though.

[death-mobile]

haven't changed the line pressure setting yet, been too lazy to drop the pan again since I just changed the fluid. i'll get around to it soon though...right now when the light comes on, I just turn the jeep off at the first stop sign or light I get to and the jeep is back out of limp mode.

the only reason I've been putting off backing the line pressure down is because I have a bad feeling that it isn't going to fix anything. but i'm trying to be positive!:smt102

[1v6pony]

Although I have the 46rh what else did you do to remove the overdirve unit??
I have removed the parking pawl attached to the valve body, the bolts in the case and spread the snap ring under the cover but it does not want to seperate past apx 5/16 of an inch...it will wiggle right to left just wont come apart... Do I just need to hammer the crap out of it???

Thanks

[nate]

In my experiences, that is not true at all. Increasing the line pressure increases the pressure applied to the clutches preventing them from slipping. VERY VERY VERY important on a trans that is powered by something with some HP.

It's not a big deal on a stockish 4.0L, but it really makes a difference in the diesel world.

Yes it can mess with the electronics of the trans, but that is fixable.


Turning the line pressure up really does nothing with a RE trans except messing up the controller. The shift quality is controlled by the electronic governor and governor pressure transducer readings. So backing the line pressure back down to the factory setting might fix your problem.

[death-mobile]

fixable? such as putting a 150ohm resistor inline with the trans signal wire?

I did that and it didn't do a damn thing. My next move is to back it down to the stock setting, but I haven't gotten around to it yet. This is the most annoying thing in the world...perfect trans, until the CEL comes on.

[indy242003]

I really wish I could help you here, but I run the same kit in my valve body with no codes and it shifts hard with no issues. I replaced every bit of the electrical stuff in the valve body though. I was so done with it before I was done and I really did not want to go in there again.

[death-mobile]

It must be something APS did with the valve body. I tried to save some time and had APS send me a new body with the kit and whatever tweaks they do. I'm fairly sure they got it all shitted up and they haven't answered my calls in over a year...soo...F them.

I'm going to back the pressure down, and if it doesn't work, I'm just going to get a stock TB and build it up with the same kit and leave it at that.

I was wondering, when you are cruising around town, and you are in 1st, do you ever speed up enough where the trans is sooooo close to going into second, and then you let off it and it recoils and sounds pretty rough? That's something else that bothers me, but as long as I don't let off the throttle, it will move into 2nd smoothly. I attribute that to one of APS's tweaks as well. I think the body is just overworked. Hopefully lower pressures will fix the CEL.

[indy242003]

I was wondering, when you are cruising around town, and you are in 1st, do you ever speed up enough where the trans is sooooo close to going into second, and then you let off it and it recoils and sounds pretty rough? That's something else that bothers me, but as long as I don't let off the throttle, it will move into 2nd smoothly. I attribute that to one of APS's tweaks as well. I think the body is just overworked. Hopefully lower pressures will fix the CEL.

No, when it winds up close to shifting, if I let off it shifts hard into second. I'm not sure exactly what they did, but it for sure does not sound right. Call these guys http://www.transmissioncenter.net/highperflist.htm . They were a big help when I did mine.

[death-mobile]

I don't know if it is falling back into first, or slamming hard into 2nd...it's kinda hard to tell. Does that place take tech calls? I just looked at the site and it seems like they might not give out free advice :cool:

[zjrog]

Glad I saw this thread... I might rehab a 42RE for my 95 ZJ this summer. I'm finishing a Ford A4LD for an Explorer and we'll see how I did soon...

[indy242003]

I don't know if it is falling back into first, or slamming hard into 2nd...it's kinda hard to tell. Does that place take tech calls? I just looked at the site and it seems like they might not give out free advice :cool:

Yep they do. Just ask to talk to the shop.

[death-mobile]

UPDATE


...so far so good. I backed down the line pressure A LOT. I went with the factory spec of 1" 5/16 but it made noooooo sense. Measuring from the body to the spring seat is far less than 1 inch, so I threw that notion out the window and checked the internet. Seems a lot of people went with backing it down flush with the spring as long as possible, and then turning it in 2 turns. They say if you go more than 2 turns, a 150ohm resistor is needed inline. I went with almost 2 full turns and left the resistor in place.

First of all...that "clunk" I spoke of before was a driveshaft noise. When the trans was getting ready to shift but the throttle was backed down, it would shock the driveline because it was set for such intense shifts. It was great if you were going balls-out everyday, but for a streetable rig, too extreme is a bad thing. So far, that has gone away and the P1693 has seemed to stay away so far. I haven't taken it on the highway so that is the big test. If it comes back...I'm ripping the valve body out and sending it back to APS with a note that says "you suck".


Building from nothing and using manuals is much easier than fixing someone elses dumb mistakes. I should have just modified the stock valve body myself. I thought I was getting something special by ordering one of these fancy tweeked valve bodies. :tease:

[the peps]

hello guys, i write from italy and on my 95 4.0 zj have a problem with the trans..
it has gone in limp mode, the od light stays on all the time and there is no shifting, downshifting or anything else. i am using it like a manual shift. the speed sensor has been changed, the oil and filter too and nothing change. there was some debris in the filter, and now i am decided to change the solenoid/sensor inside the box. any advice??
thanks a lot in advance...

[cavaliers1323]

all in all, how much do you have in the rebuild? And was the only tool you bought the clutch pack tool? Do you think you would have been better off with the higher dollar kit or was the ebay just fine? Maybe a parts list price breakdown! Seems a lot of us are on edge about dong a rebuild, I just wanna get everything together and have t ready to go in as soon as I pull the trans. My zj is my only vehicle, and I don't have any 42re sitting around.

[iluvtruenos]

Did your trans hunt between first and second gear when accelerating slowly when cold?

If so, what did you do to solve this? Did you reuse all your old electronics and just replaced hardware, or how did you go about fixing this problem?

Mine will shift fine if I apply anything over 25% throttle.

[cavaliers1323]

Have you tried a different resistor?

[death-mobile]

A different resistor? Such as...?

I'm going insane with this. Maybe there is a short somewhere, and I just can't find it, but I find it hard to believe that only after I rebuild it, that I get this CEL. It seems to be random now. I can usually make it come on when I go onto certain hills around town...over 55mph. The other day, it didn't come on at all in a 75 mile drive, highway and around town.

I thought about the TSB for an errroneous P1763, but, my jeep is a 2000, so technically it should already have the new software for higher pressures, even if the valve body APS used was from 97 or something.

Does the TPS wiring have anything to do with P1763? I got some more info on it and someone suggested the throttle pressure cable being out of adjustment. If the cable binds, perhaps it could cause the CEL to come on for the P1763??

Possible reasons for P1763...

5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN

GOV PRESS SENSOR SIGNAL CKT SHORT TO VOLTAGE

GOV PRESSURE SENSOR SIGNAL CIRCUIT OPEN

SENSOR GROUND CIRCUIT OPEN

INTERMITTENT PROBLEM

OTHER TRANSMISSION DTC'S PRESENT

PARK NEUTRAL DTC'S PRESENT

TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL AND CONDITION

GOV PRESS SENSOR SIGNAL CKT SHORT TO VOLTAGE INSIDE TRANS

5 VOLT SUPPLY CIRCUIT OPEN INSIDE TRANS

GOV PRESS SENSOR SIGNAL CKT OPEN INSIDE TRANS

GOV PRESS SENSOR GROUND CKT OPEN INSIDE TRANS

GOVERNOR PRESSURE SENSOR (HIGH)


I'll go over the connections again, check the round connector at the trans, maybe back line pressure down again...but I dunno. I don't think it's a short because of the fact that it doesn't matter how bad you shake the jeep, it only happens when it's under a load.

[cavaliers1323]

Have you tested the resistor to verify it's working?

[death-mobile]

It's the resistor that was recommended, but honestly, no. I haven't put a meter on it. I never heard of a resistor not working before...but maybe it's worth a shot to put a different brand on it.

[death-mobile]

http://www.moparchat.com/FORUMS/archive/index.php?t-111289.html


If you skim through this...I have a gut feeling APS did some bad things to my valve body and I need to stop wasting time trying to diagnose it and slap a new one on it.

[cavaliers1323]

What mods do they actually do?

[cavaliers1323]

It's the resistor that was recommended, but honestly, no. I haven't put a meter on it. I never heard of a resistor not working before...but maybe it's worth a shot to put a different brand on it.

Yea it's not very often that they don't work. But they also never work at the advertised resistance. There are different tolerances eg 10%, and yours
may be out of tolerence. Worh a shot, o ky take a couple minutes and eliminate one more thing. You never know, may save you from dropping the pan again.

[death-mobile]

They won't tell you...it's fucking gay. I asked him to just install the transgo shift kit for street/offroad use. They took it upon themselves to do their "APS tweeks". I have a feeling they might have drilled some passages too big and made this a valve body strictly for off-road or racing or whatever.

I would be all for the o2 sensors being bad since the MIL seems to come on only when the jeep is in the hole going up a hill. Hence...more heat/fuel...tripping out the o2 sensor...creating the P1763. BUT, I never got a code for the o2 sensors...and it's too hard to recreate the fault...so disconnecting the sensors isn't a logical step in troubleshooting.

[death-mobile]

Yea it's not very often that they don't work. But they also never work at the advertised resistance. There are different tolerances eg 10%, and yours
may be out of tolerence. Worh a shot, o ky take a couple minutes and eliminate one more thing. You never know, may save you from dropping the pan again.


I found an old post from APS on jeepsunlimited and I took the tolerance and resistance right from Wayne's post....but who knows.

[cavaliers1323]

Its probably the right one, I'm just saying it may be out of tolerance. Do you know what the color bands, multiplier band, and tolerance band is/are?

That is gay, I have a HD trans-go kit ready for install and I was curious about the mod someone mentioned to get flow while in park. But now I'm not so sure....

[death-mobile]

Don't be afraid of those little things. Those are small fixes, APS did some shit that they thought would be all bad-ass. I should have done the damn thing myself, but if I were to save time, I'd probably buy one from IPT. After all this time of researching about what APS did to my valve body...since they appear to have gone out of buisness...IPT and APS seem to have been feuding for a while. Tranzdude and WayneAPS go at it in a lot of mopar forums.

[cavaliers1323]

cant seem to find any info on the valve body tweaks, do you know of any?

[cavaliers1323]

The more I read, the more it sounds like a bad o2 sensor.

[death-mobile]

I would love that to be the case, but I have yet to get any codes for an o2 sensor. All four of them are original and have about 140K miles on them...but...no codes...:smt108

[cavaliers1323]

Let me dig up a wiring diagram from the FSM, the O2 sensors tied in with a bunch of stuff. Not to long ago my downstream O2 sensor pigtail was resting on my rear diveshaft, and it kept blowing a mini fuse intermitantly. IIRC the fuse was for the ASD relay, so I never thought to check O2 sensor wires. The sensor went bad from being shorted, no codes stored the only reason I knew is because I changed it. With a buck fourty on yours it wouldnt hurt to go ahead and change them! Bit pricey, but if your at wits end....

[cavaliers1323]

http://i30.tinypic.com/2enatlt.png

[cavaliers1323]

http://i32.tinypic.com/t9b79e.png

[cavaliers1323]

http://i30.tinypic.com/2eat2tw.png

[cavaliers1323]

little info on what the O2 sensors are tied into:
http://i27.tinypic.com/2vc6e1e.png

[cavaliers1323]

As you can see the governor pressure sensor is tied into the same circuit as the O2 sensors (K4)
http://i29.tinypic.com/16p6ci.png

[death-mobile]

a little confusing...

what do they consider the vehicle speed sensor? the speed sensor is technically the ABS. I have a truspeed calibration tool inline with the abs to correct speedo/tire size, I'm trying to dismiss the possibility of it causing any problems as well...it's been installed for like 4 years, so I doubt it.

i'll probably change the o2 sensors because they are old, but I still have a hard time figuring why ONLY after the rebuild that I get this code now? odd coincidence?

i have to brush up on my schematic reading, but does the transmission temp sensor work into the equation? what about the od solenoid and the other sensors in the block with the governor pressure?

[kaption12]

Just a newbie here but I have been having ploblems with my 42re as well I talked to these guys and they really helped me out here is their link.
http://www.smrtrans.com/ hope they can help you out.

[cavaliers1323]

Sorry, for some reason the last image wont upload.

[cavaliers1323]

Continued from governor pressure sensor. http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/8295/picture7ieh.th.png (http://img31.imageshack.us/i/picture7ieh.png/)

The temp sensor does play a role.

[cavaliers1323]

Not to hi-jack but I just pulled my valve body and the accumulator piston spring was broken. And the piston has what seems to be excessive wear, can I just clean it up?

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/2743/img0160c.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/i/img0160c.jpg/)

This is what the spring looked like when I pulled it out

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/5029/img0159f.th.jpg (http://img190.imageshack.us/i/img0159f.jpg/)

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/6990/img0158jsr.th.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/i/img0158jsr.jpg/)

Sorry for the shitty pics, iphone sucks.

EDIT: I didn't get a chance to look through the kit, but does anyone know if it comes with a new spring and accumulator seals?

[cavaliers1323]

FWIW the Trans-go kit came with a resistor, going off memory of the color bands I believe it is a 2500ohm resistor. I will double check tomorrow because my memory is terrible!

EDIT: Good thing I checked, the first band was brown not red. Meaning it is a 1,500 ohm resistor (1.5k ohm) I will defenitly be checking mine before installing it.

[death-mobile]

Woooah...did you say 1500 ohm??? I have a 150 ohm resistor inline. Can you triple check that to make sure? That would be some shit. The dude from APS posted on another forum about 6 years ago it was a 150ohm 8% tolerance resistor. I would love for that to be the case. I am having a hard time believing the coincidence that directly after the rebuild...that my first day on the road...my o2 sensors started crapping out. I do have some wiring issues with the TPS, but it rarely, and I mean rarely happens, and it will just cause the jeep to stall out...but that happened before the rebuild. I'm leaning towards the pressures created in the body are just TOO HIGH.

[cavaliers1323]

Color band
If you look at a resistor, one end should have a gold, silver, or white band. Turn the resistor so that this band is to your right. That band represents the resistor’s tolerance. You begin by translating the colored bands into numbers and recording those numbers. For the first and second colored bands, the values are as follows:
Black = 0
Brown = 1
Red = 2
Orange = 3
Yellow = 4
Green = 5
Blue = 6
Violet = 7
Grey = 8
White = 9

Multiplier band
Once you find the values for the first two bands, write them down. For example, if you have a red band and a black band, then the values will be 2 and 0. Put these two numbers together and you’ll get the number 20. The third band is the multiplier band. This is the number you'll multiply the first two bands by to get the resistor’s value. The color scheme for the third band is as follows:
Black = 1
Brown = 10
Red = 100
Orange = 1000 (or 1 K)
Yellow = 10,000 (or 10 K)
Green = 100,000 (or 100 K)
Blue = 1,000,000 (or 1 M)

Tolerance band
Let’s take a look at the tolerance band. The reason for having a tolerance band is that no resistor performs at exactly its rated value. The tolerance band is there to let you know how much the resistor could potentially be off by. A gold resistor means that the rated value is within plus or minus 5 percent of being accurate. A silver band means that the resistor’s actual value may be within plus or minus 10 percent of the rated value. If there is no tolerance band, it means that the resistor has an actual value within plus or minus 20 percent of the rated value.

Brown = 1
Green = 5
Red = 100
Gold = 5%

1500 ohm's 5% tolerance. Thats what came with the Trans-Go kit. 1425-1575 would be the tolerance, mine tested at 1476. A 5 pack at radio shack is $0.99

FWIW- 3-4 accum piston spring is included with the kit :-)

[death-mobile]

I was going to say...replace all the little parts like that. I replaced a lot of the teflon seals with metal bands too. I knew that metal would wear the case out, but after 150K or whatever this trans lasts...I don't plan on rebuilding it a second time, so I'll take advantage of less leakage using steel.

I can't believe the trans go kit comes with a 1500ohm resistor, and not only did APS NOT mention that I would need a resistor, but when I did find out that it was needed...I got bad advice to use a 150ohm resistor. I'll head to radioshack today and pick up a 5 pack and solder it in later this week. I'll eat my hat if that fixes it. :smt118

BTW: the kit you got was for a 42RE? does the vehicle year matter or change what resistor you use?

[cavaliers1323]

Not sure, and I can't triple check every thing is back together and working quite nicely!!! Yes its the HD2 trans-go kit for the RH/RE 42-48 (TFOD-HD2). A quick call to trans-go may answer your questions. I dont know if it matters but on summits site they have 3 pages of applications. Years as early as 66' and as late as 04'

Ill look through the installation instructions to see if it mentions the specs, but I'm 99% sure its 1.5k. I hit some WOT's on steep hills, no code...

I also changed out all sensors/solenoids and harness, what a difference that made. Shuddered in reverse once ATF reached ~150 F, sometimes started in second, had a weird downshift problem on coast/light throttle. Plus it is nice not to slip on the 3-4 shift for once!!! Transmission has been fucked up for probably 4 years! Feels like a new jeep!

[death-mobile]

WELLL...I just got off the phone with transgo. First off, they don't use the resistor anymore in any of their new kits. I told him I got mine over a year ago and he came back and said it is indeed a 150ohm resistor, but here is the funny part. He said it has to be on pin 2, or whatever the 5v feed is and it HAS TO BE PUT IN AT THE TRANS CONNECTOR. He said the abs shares the 5 v feed from the pcm, so it will just create problems if you put it at the PCM. He also went off on how they are the manufacturers and don't listen to anyone who says to put it in at the PCM. Well...that is were mine is now. I'll change it out this weekend and see if it works. I don't know where you are getting 1500ohm...because that did sound really high.

[cavaliers1323]

Maybe the multiplier band was brown. Sorry. My Instructions told
me to wire it at the transducer on the red wire. I'll scan a copy, my kits prob a couple years old, got it for 45 shipped off pirate...

[death-mobile]

I cut out the resistor at the PCM and put it about 2 inches up on the connector to the trans. On my way to do so, I found that the speed sensor had a wire that looked broken. If it wasn't broken then, I broke it taking it off. It broke so far inside the connector, then I had to take the pin out and try to resolder it. Well...it didn't work and I need the connector plug...and I might as well replace the sensor too since it's only a couple of bucks. The problem is that it seems the only place to get the plug part of the connector is to cut it off an old harness from a junkyard. I haven't tried the dealer yet, but Kolak said there wasn't a part number for it. \

As far as the previous problem...I only get a code for the speed sensor now P0720. It's odd to drive with it since it holds the shift point much longer than normal, but it hasn't gone into limp mode yet. At least so far...

[cavaliers1323]

How goes it?

[death-mobile]

...need to get my hands on the plug/connector for the speed sensor before I can deem anything fixed or broken. :smt069

[cavaliers1323]

Can you get a new pin/connector and slide a new wire in?

[cavaliers1323]

Updates?

[jclaudii]

update?

[cowboy63b]

really?

[PilotAustin]

well I have a feeling he will update it now........



NOT! :tease:

[jclaudii]

Well just was having similar issues and it would be nice to know how he fixed it!

[death-mobile]

UPDATE-

I am convinced that something in the valve body was getting stuck. I get the governor pressure code about once every 1500 miles or something...and it's always on a steep hill when I'm gassing it up to 55+ mph. I am guessing whatever was getting hung up is now freeing up...honestly it doesn't happen as much anymore so I stopped caring. Maybe a spring was too strong, creating too much pressure, and it's getting weaker now...who the F knows.
I also bought new O2 sensors that I haven't installed yet, which might be the issue entirely, but I think the fact that it doesn't trip the code as much anymore leads me to believe the previous.
Don't have someone "tweak" your valve body if you rebuild the trans...just go with a transgo kit and do it yourself...unless you have someone do the entire rebuild.
I was close to pulling the valve body and putting a new one in, but the trans shifts so strong and just FEELS strong, why mess with it. The random code isn't making me crazy anymore...mainly because it only happens once in a blue moon now. I'm about 50,000 miles on the rebuilt trans at this point.

[jclaudii]

Thanks for your update...Glad it's working out for ya. I have mine figured out now..I did a transmission swap from a 2001 into my 99....well it was throwing codes left and right sending off the overtemp light too. Finally figure dout the solenoids were "different" and would not talk to the '99PCM. So I basically dropped my pan swapped the solenoids and put it back together and it all went away.

So I have a spare 42re sitting in the shed that is waiting for a rebuild sometime soon.

Only thing I would ask is where does one get these "kevlar frictions" that people mention from time to time to make it hold better with less heat?

Thanks for this thread..it is a decent writeup for the 42re!

[death-mobile]

You don't want kevlar. Kevlar gets hot and melts. SURE...it will stop a bullet, but it's not gonna help when the clutch disk is spinning like crazy while trying to grab hold of something until it slows down and goes into gear. Just get a nice quality disk like raybestos or whatever. Make sure to replace the steels that they grab onto as well though.

I just recently got a P0740 (i think)...something about the TCC lock up solenoid. It popped up once and it didn't do anything as far as shifting went, so I bought a new solenoid and will be swapping it in. That one solenoid just happens to be the only solenoid I haven't replaced since day one...so...

[Tally ZJ]

Hmm..which solenoid was it? I normally used nonsynthetic b&m trick shift, and at about 100k, I decided to do my trans a favor and use chrysler atf+4...well...after putting it in, I got a horrible shudder. The reason I don't think it is a solenoid is because it is particular to the position of my jeep. If I am on a hill, it will almost always shudder on take off, and it will also shudder if I really stomp on it from a dead stop. I'm guessing your's shuddered more often than mine.

As far as the vent mod, NICE!

Any info you can get me for drilling out passages would be cool, but I decided to go with the rebuild kit for 120.00 from ebay, instead of the IPT performance kit for 375.00 The way I figure it is, if my trans lasted 100k of wheeling with 33's, and all i have is this shudder, and some slight slippage from 1st to 2nd...a fresh rebuild anyway will be sweet.

This has been a good read

[fireman33]

Hey guys, im also having this intermittent problem with the p1763, i hoping someone could help me with this one. Jeep is a 2003 wj 4.0l.

Someday everything is great, shift smooth and everything. No code. The next morning i start the jeep put it in drive and it takes off in 3rd gear and the CEL comes one with p1763. 4th and overdrive works good as well as reverse. I can manually shift it in 2nd gear but not in 1st. I can drive like that all day, shut it off then the next day it will work fine again...even though the CEL is still on. This is really intermittent. It can work perfectly for a week then p1763 comes back until i erase the code...then will eventually come back. I have replaced the governor pressure sensor and solenoid, new filter and ATF-4...which only fix my problem for 2 weeks.

NOW THIS ONE...really i can't figure it out...lets say the transmission is on a good mood and as been for a week....lets say im cruizing on the highway, no hills just flat ground and in overdrive, SOMETIME when i let off the gas, i will feel a little thumb from the transmission...then next thing i know my transmission is acting like its in neutral ''with the lever still on Drive'' and i get no power to the wheel...the rpm just revs up. The only way to get back power to the wheel is to come to a complete stop, shift in park then shift back in drive. At this particular moment, the CEL will light up ''p1763'' and i will have to take off again in 3rd and the ol' routine starts again.

Weird ehh....i just refuse to believe i need a rebuilt because 50% of the time the transmission works like a dream.

[death-mobile]

Update - so I dropped the valve body and replaced the TCC solenoid pack. It drove fine afterwards...however a few days later I went to pull it out of the driveway and it was pretty weak in D and R. So weak, that it actually stalled once. Instead of freaking out...I checked the fluid. It was a qt low...I guess after dropping the valve body I lost more than the typical 5-6 qts. Anyways, I topped it off and problems went away. I really hope that was the only issue.

I'm really thinking about swapping the transmission out or buying a 2004 with low miles and swapping all the mods over and starting fresh. Ever since I had that idiotic company do my valve body, I've had nothing but problems and as opposed to replacing the valve body, I'm thinking about starting over. I'm not sure what I want to do. The trans feels strong and the jeep never lets me down, so I dunno.

I also adjusted the bands a lot tighter due to the high ratio apply lever and I like the way it feels now. It stays in 1st until you really need to get out of it, so no more slamming into and out of 2nd gear when your cruising at low speeds. That might be the wrong way to describe it...but it tends to stay low or downshift instead of reaching for a higher gear unless you hit it with some higher rpms.

[Blowerbusa]

Thank you for the good read! Now time to start collecting parts for my 42RE :D

[death-mobile]

Glad it helped. I'll probably be rebuilding another 42RE pretty soon. I'll make sure to do the valve body myself this time.

[jclaudii]

Just curious, not sure if this is the place to ask, but can we put any of the internals from a 44/46/47/48 into the 42re to make it stronger and more heavy duty? I have ran across a few threads from different sites all over that discuss putting in different internals into the 42re case to make a hybrid 42re transmission. I also would like to know if I should purchase the 42/44re rebuild kit from ebay or piece something together from multiple sources. I know 42re is the a500 class and the 46re and up is the a518 class, but I'm not sure how alike and similar they are as I'm still doing my homework here.

Basically I have a WJ that has the 4.0 with 33's and I toe some weight with it from time to time. So I know it is just a matter of time before it goes :).

also here are some more good writeup's I found while searching. I'm a lazy ass and I still have that transmission sitting in my shed.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-faqs-diys-and-how-tos/247003-need-to-rebuild-your-transmission.html

46 re kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-46RE-47RE-A518-A618-Transmission-Rebuild-Kit-/200207207158?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2e9d478af6&vxp=mtr

42re kit
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Chrysler-Jeep-A500-40RH-42RH-44RE-Transmission-Master-Rebuild-Kit-1989-ON-/220965154348?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33728cae2c&vxp=mtr

I also seem to recall a different shift kit being used in most of these applications, but I can't find it easily on ebay: not sure if this is it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRANSGO-TRANSMISSION-SHIFT-KIT-A500-A518-42RH-42RE-44RE-46RH-46RE-dodge-jeep-/130580788025?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6738b339&vxp=mtr

Thanks again for the awesome detail and time put into this post!

[death-mobile]

In my opinion it's not necessary to do that. If you had 400hp and it was linked directly to your rear driveshaft, then yea, upgrade away. The inside of a 42RE is rather beefy, but you could upgrade the planetary gears if you wanted, still, I don't think you will ever blow it up with the stock parts. If you look at failures, they are disc related, or valve body related. It's pretty rare the inside blows up from shear force. I would buy your kit from a good shop that builds transmissions...somewhere online... Make sure you replace the steels and the discs with something high quality. Transgo is a good shift kit and as long as it's for the transmission you have or are building, you'll be fine. There are lots of little parts you could replace like I did, but I think it's more trouble than it's worth. Maybe the blocker rod is worth it since it will remove the spring and give you a solid shift, but you should already have a solid shift if you put in a shift kit. My advice is to build it with good rebuild parts, put a shift kit in, and be done with it...they are built like shit from the factory and I found shit that wasn't right when I took it apart, and I don't mean it broke from use, I mean it was built wrong at the factory.