PDA

View Full Version : hitch advice



nwgrand
03-29-2007, 11:35 PM
i have a 2000 F250 diesel w/air bags and a big camper. I want to tow a trailer for my jeep (zj). The camper weighed down my truck pretty good (i was scared driving it) until i got airbags. The camper weighs about 3000 LBS. I have a standard hitch ext. but i dont think it would be good enough to tow a trailer. Anyone recomend a good hitch or any advice on what to do? thanks

ZJZJ
03-30-2007, 09:50 AM
Are you talking about a camper in the bed of your truck, plus a trailer attached to the truck, or do you mean towing a camper with another trailer attached behind it? If you are talking about towing doubles, the first thing is to figure out if you need an endorsement on your license. In Michigan, I would have to get a recreational double endorsement. Then you need to determine if the travel trailer is rated to tow doubles. If it is, you can have a hitch added to the trailer.

If you are talking about a pick-up camper weighing 3,000 pounds, plus a 16-18' trailer behind it, you need to make sure your truck is rated to handle that much load. The airbags are great, but you may want to add a set of overload springs like I assume an F-350 would have. On the Dodge, that is one of the only differences between a 2500 and a 3500 is the overload spring. You would want to be careful how much tongue weight you put on the truck. 3,000 pounds of camper, plus the tongue weight, plus any other tools and spare parts and you are looking at over 4,000 pounds extra weight on the rear axle. Make sure your tires, wheels, and rear axle are rated for that. Some states get extremely picky on tire load ratings and axle load ratings. You can determine the weights by hitting a set of scales with just the camper in the bed, then hooking up the trailer with the ZJ on it and reweighing the rig. If you have too much tongue weight, slide the ZJ back a few inches if you can. Just keep about 60% of the weight of the ZJ forward on the trailer.

Hope that helps. I've never towed doubles and don't really want to. You also need to check overall length restrictions in whatever states you plan to visit. My 37' gooseneck and 3500 are illegal in some states. I'm about 64' in length. Some states cut off at 60-62'. Others are 70. Just do a ton of reading on the restrictions.

Krash80
03-30-2007, 01:40 PM
I don't think he's talking about doubles, and I'm pretty sure he's talking about removing the camper before towing a trailer.

Is the hitch you have stock? If so, it's fine to tow a ZJ with. If it's aftermarket, what size hitch is it, and what class is it?

If you're worried about the stability of the the truck, a couple things you can do to an F250 besides airbags would be to snag a rear swaybar off an F350 that has one (not all 350's have them)...it should be a direct bolt on, or you could look into F350 rear springs also, or possibly even just the helper springs that sit on top of the 350 leaf pack.

P.S.- your 250 was scary w/ a 3000 lb camper in the bed because you've only got a 3/4 ton truck...ie. it's made to carry 1500 lbs max in the bed. To safely carry a 3000 lb camper without modifications to the rear suspension, you'd need an F450 or an F550, which are rated to hold 3000 lbs or 4000 lbs respectively in the bed.

nwgrand
03-30-2007, 06:53 PM
Sorry i was not clear on the camper, it is actually a camper that fits in the bed of the truck, not a tow behind. The spec i read for a superduty f250 is a payload of 2800 - 3100 lbs. the helper springs or 350 springs are a good idea. It does have a sway bar in the rear, you think the 350's are different? the spec. i found on the f350 - payload of 4600 lbs. Im pretty sure the axles are the same on the 250 and 350. My brother has a 350 i can check. The problem i have is the camper over hangs in the back so i need a 18 - 24" extension. The extension i have is a single post extension(de-rates 1/3 i think). I have seen rigs with double (stacked) extensions. I think that is what i need. I found one but it was like $900 Also , any idea of how much weight i could figure w/60% of the jeep up front on a tandom axle trailer?

ZJZJ
03-30-2007, 10:03 PM
I don't think he's talking about doubles, and I'm pretty sure he's talking about removing the camper before towing a trailer.

Is the hitch you have stock? If so, it's fine to tow a ZJ with. If it's aftermarket, what size hitch is it, and what class is it?

If you're worried about the stability of the the truck, a couple things you can do to an F250 besides airbags would be to snag a rear swaybar off an F350 that has one (not all 350's have them)...it should be a direct bolt on, or you could look into F350 rear springs also, or possibly even just the helper springs that sit on top of the 350 leaf pack.

P.S.- your 250 was scary w/ a 3000 lb camper in the bed because you've only got a 3/4 ton truck...ie. it's made to carry 1500 lbs max in the bed. To safely carry a 3000 lb camper without modifications to the rear suspension, you'd need an F450 or an F550, which are rated to hold 3000 lbs or 4000 lbs respectively in the bed.

1/2, 3/4, and 1 ton no longer has any direct correlation to actual payload. It's a marketing strategy. 1500 means I don't really need a pick-up. 2500 means I should have gotten a bigger truck. 3500 means I can actually haul something. 4500/5500 means I have bigger toys than you and have really big loan payments each month.

My 1-ton will handle 1.5-2 tons without issue. The airbags certainly help the ride.

nwgrand
03-30-2007, 10:14 PM
sounds about right.

CurtP
03-31-2007, 05:49 PM
1500 means I don't really need a pick-up. 2500 means I should have gotten a bigger truck. 3500 means I can actually haul something. 4500/5500 means I have bigger toys than you and have really big loan payments each month.

So basically you're saying that anything under a 1-ton truck is worthless :confused:
You can't be that fucking clueless.

Tell that bullshit to the guys I know who use Chebby 2500HDs to pull 30,000lb wagons around the fields. Some people know how to size their trucks to the work they need to get done.

nwgrand
03-31-2007, 07:52 PM
no truck i worthless, but it doesn't matter what you have, you always want the next bigger size. i have 33's - i want 35's, i have a two car garage - i want a three car, i have a 3/4 ton - i want a 1 ton. Im pretty sure my 3/4 ton will pull anything i put behind it, i think every thing except the springs is the same as a one ton, so i will just change them out. There is no question if the truck will do it, the question is WHAT HITCH OPTIONS DO I HAVE????????????

nwgrand
03-31-2007, 07:59 PM
something like this

http://www.torklift.com/p.php?w_page=superhitch

anyone use any of these?

dasVettemeister
04-02-2007, 06:13 AM
So basically you're saying that anything under a 1-ton truck is worthless :confused:
You can't be that fucking clueless.

Tell that bullshit to the guys I know who use Chebby 2500HDs to pull 30,000lb wagons around the fields. Some people know how to size their trucks to the work they need to get done.


Exactly. At least there is some intelligence in this thread. Although, towing doesn't have a lot to do with actually carrying weight, I know what you're talking about..... farmers tend to use a truck for MUCH more than was intended. I've seen much of the same.

ZJZJ
04-02-2007, 10:24 AM
So basically you're saying that anything under a 1-ton truck is worthless :confused:
You can't be that fucking clueless.

Tell that bullshit to the guys I know who use Chebby 2500HDs to pull 30,000lb wagons around the fields. Some people know how to size their trucks to the work they need to get done.

Could you be any more of a raging internet asshole? It was humor. Get over yourself and relax before you pop an artery.

ZJZJ
04-02-2007, 10:27 AM
So basically you're saying that anything under a 1-ton truck is worthless :confused:
You can't be that fucking clueless.

Tell that bullshit to the guys I know who use Chebby 2500HDs to pull 30,000lb wagons around the fields. Some people know how to size their trucks to the work they need to get done.

There is a GIANT fucking difference between PULLING and HAULING. Even a 1500 with the right gears and motor will PULL 30,000 pounds. Just don't try to HAUL extremely heavy with one.

CurtP
04-02-2007, 11:35 AM
Could you be any more of a raging internet asshole?

Yes, I could - but I'd probably have to get a frontal lobotomy, shove a fist up my ass and change my name to ZJZJ.

ZJZJ
04-02-2007, 06:12 PM
Yes, I could - but I'd probably have to get a frontal lobotomy, shove a fist up my ass and change my name to ZJZJ.

Holy shit, then I could get a union job!

dasVettemeister
04-02-2007, 08:49 PM
Holy shit, then I could get a union job!

Easy there, shit for brains.

nate
04-02-2007, 09:26 PM
The stock hitch is probably a class III.

Class III is usually rated for 500lb tongue, 5000lb trailer.

My Jeep/trailer is about 800lbs tongue, 7400lbs trailer to give you an idea.

Class III is "ok", but I updgraded to a class V to make me feel warm and fuzzy.

TheCompound
04-03-2007, 01:00 AM
Hey for what ever its worth, as you upgrade the payload/hauling of your rig. DO NOT :smt018 forget about the BRAKES! In all my miles of towing/hauling I have never been scared when my rig was able to move the load, but there has been times while trying to stop that loaded rig:eek:. Well lets say I needed new shorts:poke:
-TheCompound

nwgrand
04-03-2007, 09:32 AM
i'll just crank up the trailer brakes and see how it works.

Check Book WJ
04-07-2007, 11:03 PM
Personally, I'd see if I could get some direct feedback from someone that has actually used that extended receiver setup before I planned on purchasing and using it.

One thing to keep in mind is that's it's going to put more leverage as far as side to side sway on your truck ( being only a 250 series w/o dualies ), and if you have a shortbed/wheelbase chassis I'd bet it would be more than a handful at times to try to keep straight or control, especially in any mountain roads or with crosswinds.

You might be better off not using that bed-installed camper, getting a cap and hauling a tent and camping gear and sticking with a standard hitch assembly unless you get more info about that setup and feel confident about it working for you.

John

nate
04-08-2007, 11:43 AM
Sheez. A few people on here need to shut the fuck up because they have no clue and are just spewing shit out of their mouths.



What you need to do is find out what the weight of your trailer loaded is. Total weight, and tongue weight.


You are better off to extend the tongue on your trailer instead of those lame ass hitch extenders. They are ok for a small boat or utility trailer and that's about it.

markr
04-19-2007, 03:30 PM
What you need to do is find out what the weight of your trailer loaded is. Total weight, and tongue weight.


You are better off to extend the tongue on your trailer instead of those lame ass hitch extenders. They are ok for a small boat or utility trailer and that's about it.

What he says!!!!
I think those extenders look scary as shit!!!!!

get a smaller camper, a good tailer and bigger truck (F 350) and be alot happier when you get to where you are going!!!!!!!!!!!

nwgrand
04-28-2007, 12:36 PM
a smaller camper and bigger truck = alot of $$$$$$$$$$. I've been flat towing it behind the truck (w/camper on) and its been working fine. I know the major prob. of flat towing is breaking an axle on the trail, so what if i put the money i would use for the hitch extender and heavier leafs into locking hubs all around. My usuall tow on pavement is about 50mi. longest is 300mi once or twice a year. I have a hp dana 30 front, i would prob. put the warn kit on and an 8.8 rear, i would prob do the super 88 kit w/hubs. Now my jeep is better and i can tow alright. Of couse later on down the road when i need a new truck i will be looking bigger and then look at camper options. Also on the long trips i could ditch the camper.