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View Full Version : Project H3RESQ, Thanks to Bullydog!



H3RESQ
01-27-2007, 02:10 AM
After seeing the Bullydog H3 at Offroad impact I've decided it's round 2 for "ol resq".
I think most of you know the basics so far.RK 6.5 LA, Atlas 3.8 w driveline brake, 35 spline 9inch rear, ARB's, 37's and a constanlty broken D30.

The goal for round 2 is....... Spidertrax housings F/R. High pinion carriers F/R. 35 spline shafts F/R. ARB's F/R. 14" coilovers F/R. Air bumps F/R. All new custom long arm F/R. Full Hydro(self center, high speed application).

Basic Idea is keep it low, Keep it streetable and full body. Make it a trail/dunes/obstacle course runner.
Thinking Currie high pinion front, hi9 rear. Use drivline brake as e-brake and e-brakes in wilwoods disks as cutting brakes. No more than 4ish inches of uptravel. 3 Link panhard front, 4 link rear. Full skids ETC.

Here's what I got so far. 1 spidertrax housing and 1 35 spline arb.
The idea for now is to get the front started since my rear is stought and will only be getting a new housing and brackets.

corrupt143
01-27-2007, 02:16 AM
Thats purdy.:smt054

Popsicle
01-27-2007, 02:31 AM
i hate you.... :)

jfowlzj95
01-27-2007, 02:36 AM
Can I have one of your RC buggies?

Oh and nice housing you've got there. :finga:

ATL ZJ
01-27-2007, 03:24 AM
"Streetable" "full hydro"... of course set up right, shouldn't be a problem but we all know the dangers.. Can't wait to see it, take some closeup pics and I'm sure I can find a place for some of that extra cash you don't know what to do with.

H3RESQ
01-27-2007, 08:20 PM
I'm still looking into the Hydro setup.(I'll post some options I'm looking into soon) It will be safe. If baja 1000 trucks can run over 100mph I think it will be able to get me to the store/trail and back.
I've seen plenty of other steering fail. Broken pitman arms, tierods, drag links, tre's, etc.
Steering usually fails due to improper maintnance not system.
As far as the cash......work hard, play hard.;)

SuicideTireZJ
01-27-2007, 08:32 PM
I've seen some of your other pics and was wondering how you built a vehicle for small uptravel/ big downtravel? I know you can stop uptravel with bumpstops but do you just use really soft springs or what?

Should be a sweet project, looking forward to it!

H3RESQ
01-27-2007, 09:08 PM
I've seen some of your other pics and was wondering how you built a vehicle for small uptravel/ big downtravel? I know you can stop uptravel with bumpstops but do you just use really soft springs or what?

Should be a sweet project, looking forward to it!

Once you limit the uptravel(bumps) Your then able to run longer shocks. Allowing more downtravel as long as the suspension doesn't bind. Since I'm running a RK lift There's no binding in the links due to them running joints at both ends. You might find suspensions with joint/bushing combo's don't droop as far. You can help it a little by switching to high flex bushings.
Basically I'm running 6.5 lift coils with 34(if I remember right)inch shocks. Uptravel limited to 3ish inches and I have 24inch limiting straps due to my steering binding.
If your running a Clayton style front setup you will have a hard time getting this kind of droop due to only getting movement out of one end of the link. This is why I will stay with a 3link and why I originally purchased a RK lift. I just expected better quality.
ie.In the ramp pics you may have seen I was able to run 27inch limiting straps, but due to the iffy RK track drop bracket I had to go with a KOR track bar and stock pitman. This is when I started binding my steering and had to go with shorter straps.This could be fixed by going with steering that has hiems and high mis washers. High steer also keeps the angles better allowing less bind.
As for the coils. The bottom are fastened. The top of them is loose so they drop out of the upper cup and are held in place by extended bumps that alighn them on the way back up.(notice pics of it backed up ramp) So spring rate is irrelevant to droop since they are free to drop out of the cup.

redzj
01-27-2007, 09:56 PM
Mine is CLayton-ish radius arm setup and I can still limit out the travel on my 14" travle Mx'6s and I only have 3" up too.

H3RESQ
01-27-2007, 10:21 PM
Never actually measured it till just now.
Shock has 2.25 uptravel limited to 2 inch because of bumps. 15 inch travel shock. Does bottom out shock at flex due to rotation of axle.

Redzj. I'm not looking for an argument but just curious. Is it bumped at 3 or the shock only has 3 inches? Also does the shock factory mount or did you use converion brackets to run eyelet style? These drop the shock about 1.5 inch.

wheelnzj
01-27-2007, 11:30 PM
Dude sounds good. can't wait to see it done. sorry I have not got back to ya sooner with an amount on my axle & steering but I have not had time to look it up.

Good luck with the project, All I can say is SWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEET !!!
Can't wait to see it,
Ron

chadjans
01-28-2007, 01:41 PM
You got any pics of your current driveline ebrake? You tie it into your stock ebrake handle?

Chad

HuskerZJ
01-28-2007, 03:41 PM
Got a noob question here, what are cutting brakes?

SuicideTireZJ
01-28-2007, 04:05 PM
So with your coil unseated, how much traction do you really get? I mean what's the point of having all that flex if there isn't much weight on the tire to allow the tire to hook up.

I'm open f/r and when my coil unseats I'm pretty much stuck.

jfowlzj95
01-28-2007, 04:21 PM
Got a noob question here, what are cutting brakes?
I'm not too sure either, but I believe they're brakes for each wheel. Dont know if its part of the driveline or an actual brake but they are hand controlled. Can someone confirm on this? Been trying to do some research on them myself, but I havent been getting much luck.

corrupt143
01-28-2007, 04:27 PM
I'm not too sure either, but I believe they're brakes for each wheel. Dont know if its part of the driveline or an actual brake but they are hand controlled. Can someone confirm on this? Been trying to do some research on them myself, but I havent been getting much luck.You got it. Cutting brakes allow you to lock one wheel and rotate around it, making turns much tighter. Alot of times, its just the e-brakes on seperate cables.

jfowlzj95
01-28-2007, 04:32 PM
You got it. Cutting brakes allow you to lock one wheel and rotate around it, making turns much tighter. Alot of times, its just the e-brakes on seperate cables.
Thanks for confirming. Sorry H3RESQ for the brief thread hijack.

corrupt143
01-28-2007, 04:34 PM
If your locked, youve got to be able to unlock. You definitely couldnt have welded spider gears and expect it to work. LOL Hes gonna be running ARB's so...

jfowlzj95
01-28-2007, 04:40 PM
Yeah I guess I wasnt thinking straight :rolleyes: :doh:lol.

H3RESQ
01-28-2007, 05:15 PM
So with your coil unseated, how much traction do you really get? I mean what's the point of having all that flex if there isn't much weight on the tire to allow the tire to hook up.

I'm open f/r and when my coil unseats I'm pretty much stuck.

Your real problem is being OPEN not your flex. If a coil is free to drop it lets the tire reach the ground. If you lock your coils in top and bottom you'll actually be pulling the tire back up. Image a stretched coil. It will actually try and pull itself back together therfore taking traction away just the same. So if the tires touching that's still alittle more traction than one that's airborn. (especially open).
With a free drooping coil the pressure to the drooped axle is coming from the fact that as the other side bumps it then rotates on the bump helping to put pressure on the tire.(I'm not sure if this will make sense.) I see it in my head but have a hard time putting it in words.
The idea set up would be a coil that at full droop is not being compressed or stretched. The problem is when your going for all downtravel it's not very fesiable. I just like the idea of keeping my center of gravity low. That's more important to me.

H3RESQ
01-28-2007, 05:19 PM
You got any pics of your current driveline ebrake? You tie it into your stock ebrake handle?

Chad

It's disconected right now. I had it temp set up but broke the cable. I actually have to run the cable forward to the e-brake. Trying to figure out a better setup right now. Checking into a pulley system. I'll get a pic of it though.

H3RESQ
01-28-2007, 05:25 PM
Got a noob question here, what are cutting brakes?

Looks like these guys got it going.
My Wilwoods have seprate cables for each rear wheel. I will run cables to seprate levers. I will be able to pull the e-brake one the wheel that I want to lock. I will then put my T-case in front wheel drive and give it throttle. With the one back tire locked up the vehicle will rotate around a obsacle. This is important for me beings I live in the land of tight trails with lots of tree's.
Like said above this only works best with selectable lockers because if you had a spool/welded axle the other rear tire would drag. With a detroit it will work sometimes, just depends if it decides to ratchet or not.

H3RESQ
01-28-2007, 08:48 PM
You got any pics of your current driveline ebrake? You tie it into your stock ebrake handle?

Chad

Here's a couple pics. Since I broke my first attempt I'll probably use the factory holes for the cutting brakes and try punching a hole for the drivline brake.
This seems better than trying to figure out some kind of pulley system.
Notice in the pics how far forward the brake is from the cable exit.(to holes in top of pic.)
Iv'e removed the pads for now since I'm not using the brake.

chadjans
01-28-2007, 09:42 PM
Who's brand brake is it? Did you remove the mechanical caliper also? The cable locations are about the same as the ZJ. I am trying to figure out how I want to implament an ebrake on mine. The caddy calipers for my 14b are junk and I don't want a line lock and cutting brakes are too bling. So the driveline brake seemed to be the best option.

Chad

H3RESQ
01-28-2007, 11:04 PM
I think the brake was ordered with the Atlas from AA. I bought the Atlas from a guy that never installed it. I only had to change the input shaft on the Atlas and order a driveline.
Yes, I pulled the caliper since I wasn't using it right now.
I originally used a bicycle brake cable. I pulled it out of the housing and ran it through the hole on the lever that compresses the caliper then reinstalled the housing on the cable and hooked it to the factory Y(right before it comes out of the body, under back seat).
This actually worked well. The cable just didn't hold up to the force of me pulling the cable after aawhile and broke. Since I don't want this to happen on the trail I decided to figure out something else.
Here's a couple pics. Pretty simple design.

BTW. Why do you think cutting brakes are to bling. Even without them I've saved my body more than once with front digs. Cutting brakes will only improve on this.

chadjans
01-28-2007, 11:19 PM
BTW. Why do you think cutting brakes are to bling. Even without them I've saved my body more than once with front digs. Cutting brakes will only improve on this.

Because they simply are. I have no body to protect and digs can be accomplished with a driveline brake. And with the ability to put the front in high and the rear in low or vice versa or some other combination all the selectability is there that you need. Kill two birds with one stone; parking brake and digs all on one package.

H3RESQ
01-29-2007, 01:11 AM
Because they simply are. I have no body to protect and digs can be accomplished with a driveline brake. And with the ability to put the front in high and the rear in low or vice versa or some other combination all the selectability is there that you need. Kill two birds with one stone; parking brake and digs all on one package.

Oh I see. Bling=Not needed in the land of no tree's and tubed GC's therefore not good to anyone.

BTW: cutting brakes are way easier on your drivtrain than going hi/lo to achieve these type's of turns.

BTW: I'm sure somewhere you can find a way around it but...Atlas's don't allow you to hi/lo

chadjans
01-29-2007, 11:33 PM
BTW: cutting brakes are way easier on your drivtrain than going hi/lo to achieve these type's of turns.



High angle drivelines and 1350 ujoints. Only wear I would be worried about would be with the AW4 tranny. Damage chances are also reduced with the simple fact that you have lower tcase gearing.

H3RESQ
02-01-2007, 06:17 PM
Thought I might post pics of the morph so far. Started stock and then went like this.

adam99wj
02-01-2007, 06:49 PM
looks sharp!! , nice build!! , i wish there were more built WJs around

bozarelli
02-04-2007, 12:41 AM
Dude thats one fine Jeep...Is that ARB in the back too?..

H3RESQ
02-04-2007, 04:07 PM
Dude thats one fine Jeep...Is that ARB in the back too?..
Rear bumper is a Custom4x4Fabrication. It has been modified a bit though.

H3RESQ
02-16-2007, 12:57 AM
Started fixing my custom4x4fabrication rear bumper today. Here's some pics. The corners are seprate. They were getting shoved up into the body from coming down on rocks. You can see they were starting to do some serious damage. Broken light and lots of hidden damage. They were held by two bolts in the rear and two little allens in the front.
We decided to plate it in. Got most of it finished today. We'll hopefully finish on Sunday. We still have to hide a brace under the front edge of the corner and plate the underside.

H3RESQ
02-16-2007, 01:01 AM
That was the damage.....Here's the fix.

H3RESQ
02-16-2007, 01:02 AM
Should have it finished up Sunday......well see.

MBATF
02-17-2007, 02:18 AM
Sweeeeeeeet!

wheelnzj
02-17-2007, 03:10 AM
Keep up all the good work Jason.

Cue-Ball
02-17-2007, 06:22 PM
Lookin' Good!!!!!!!!!!

H3RESQ
02-19-2007, 09:05 PM
Damnit. I got so drunk at a double b-day party Sat night I never got to the bumper:( on sunday. So feeling the guilt I decided to do this today.

When I switched to u-joints in my grand I used alloy seals I had from a previous build. They were pretty shot so It was time for new one's. THANKS ALLOY! These are the newer version. Much improved. It's a pretty basic install so I'll keep it short.
I would recomend these to anyone with a u-jointed ZJ/WJ. They are awsome.
I threw a little grease on the seals before sliding the shafts through. Also greased once install was finished.

H3RESQ
02-19-2007, 09:07 PM
Oh ya, found this when doing the short side.

chadjans
02-19-2007, 09:42 PM
Oh ya, found this when doing the short side.


Damm. Turn that into a shifter knob.

H3RESQ
02-19-2007, 09:51 PM
Damm. Turn that into a shifter knob.
I've got a 35 spline Currie shaft that I twisted. That one's worth using as a shifter. That crappy little 27 spline doesn't deserve to be used.

H3RESQ
02-26-2007, 02:52 PM
Finished the bumper today. Went back to the factory tailights. Getting ready to start the next project......Hooking up drivleine brake off the factory handle.:cheer2:

H3RESQ
02-26-2007, 03:00 PM
Look what I got in my Garage! My buddy's 71 Bronco. Locked front and rear. 35 spline 9, Full hydro assist setup, built 302, Alum radiator, etc etc etc. I LOVE THESE EB's

Getting a little engine love today.

ILikeMud
02-26-2007, 04:20 PM
Went back to the factory tailights.

Thank god.

Truck looks good.

Northtrails
02-28-2007, 02:25 AM
Looking good Jason. :smt023

H3RESQ
03-13-2007, 12:52 AM
Got my V1 knuckles and 2nd housing from Spidertrax. Yippe it's getting closer.
These things are a work of art.

97trxuszj
03-13-2007, 01:04 AM
Saw these at the swap meet jason, they are beef and nicley constructed, look forward to seeing your build

H3RESQ
03-13-2007, 01:08 AM
Saw these at the swap meet jason, they are beef and nicley constructed, look forward to seeing your build

Those were mine at the Wild West Off Road booth. Thanks for all the fingerprints!;)

ILikeMud
03-13-2007, 10:36 AM
Going to run another 9" in the front?

WestexZJ
03-13-2007, 11:22 PM
THAT is one fine looking Jeep.

adam99wj
03-14-2007, 02:31 PM
cant wait to see that front 9" gettin built , , IMO the ford 9" is the best axle for a rig with less than 38" tires, lots of clearance , lightweight and tonnes of aftermarket support, id like to get the hp 9" to replace the hp 44 in the jeep

this is a nice rig ,

btw... what did you do for a track bar in the front , im sick of foolin around with the JUNK RK trackbar

H3RESQ
03-14-2007, 02:57 PM
cant wait to see that front 9" gettin built , , IMO the ford 9" is the best axle for a rig with less than 38" tires, lots of clearance , lightweight and tonnes of aftermarket support, id like to get the hp 9" to replace the hp 44 in the jeep

this is a nice rig ,

btw... what did you do for a track bar in the front , im sick of foolin around with the JUNK RK trackbar

I went with a KOR(KevinsOffroad) one. I think it's a JKS if I remember right. Kevin sends it along with a special set of stiffer bushings. Works GREAT.(I removed the trackbar drop bracket and went back to the stock pitman arm)
I also ordered his steering setup while I was at it.(dual stabilizers and alot stronger tie-rod and drag link.)

BTW, I feel that 35 spline 9's can hold up to more than 38's myself. Also I'm probably going to be running Longfields birfs in the front. Should be one stout front 9 with 60 outers.

Matt
03-18-2007, 05:56 PM
Just SICK! :cool:

Keep up the progress and pictures!

Northtrails
04-24-2007, 01:58 AM
Any updates? Is Tim helping build the axles? I am waiting to copycat :-D