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TrojanMan
01-13-2007, 10:47 PM
I tried googling it but came up with nothing but ad sites.

A few years back a friend of mine showed me his trail spare driveshaft.. it was custom made out of some kind of weird steel tubing. It had six sides if I remember correctly. Basically he had two sizes of tubing, the outside diameter of one tube matched the inside diameter of another tube so the tubes could slip to lengthen and was tight enough to act as a 6 spline joint. I think Charlie and I are going to make a similar driveshaft for our AW4 swaps.. but I can't think of the name of the steel.

AgitatedPancake
01-13-2007, 11:04 PM
I don't know specifically what your talking about, but I've seen trailer hitch material used MANY times. Get the outside peice, get the inside peice, weld flanges on and BOOM, slip joint.

TrojanMan
01-13-2007, 11:24 PM
Same basic principle.. but unless i'm mistaken this had 6 sides.

ATL ZJ
01-13-2007, 11:42 PM
hex box :confused: :flipoff2: :smt017

http://www.johnsonrollforming.com/specialtytubing.htm

LouisianaZJ
01-14-2007, 12:05 AM
driveshaft vibrations are going to be a total bitch. that is why you only see those types of driveshafts on the front with lockout hubs or on the back of a trailered rig

TrojanMan
01-14-2007, 12:20 AM
driveshaft vibrations are going to be a total bitch. that is why you only see those types of driveshafts on the front with lockout hubs or on the back of a trailered rig

Trust me, I understand. I'm probably going to pull the shaft and install it when going to the trail or when i'll be using 4wd. I'm just too cheap to pay the coin for a new DS:smt114 . Plus this acts as a trail spare for the rear shaft also.

ATL ZJ
01-14-2007, 12:45 AM
driveshaft vibrations are going to be a total bitch. that is why you only see those types of driveshafts on the front with lockout hubs or on the back of a trailered rig

I made a square shaft for the front of my buddy's fj40. Both times that he has pretzeled the rear shaft, he drove back to camp at 50mph with the hubs turned in in front wheel drive only. He and his passenger swore up and down they could feel no vibes. But they did notice the instant lane changes courtesy of the ez-locker engaging and disengaging with every burp of the throttle.. :D

nova
01-14-2007, 09:54 AM
Unless you don't wheel much, you're going to find it a huge pain in the ass connecting and disconnecting your driveshaft every time you hit the trail and leave it. You could take it to a driveshaft shop to try and balance it, but I'm sure they'd laugh at you and tell you they won't do it because of safety factors. I'd say that the price outweighs the putting it on/taking it off every time, especially if you're caked with mud underneath.

redzj
01-14-2007, 10:38 AM
If your going to build your own why not use the slip from your factory shaft or a junk yard shaft and build it right. Then if you have vibes just have it balanced.

spykosshow
01-14-2007, 11:09 AM
If your going to build your own why not use the slip from your factory shaft or a junk yard shaft and build it right. Then if you have vibes just have it balanced.

Because that's going to be expensive. The driveshafts are about .5 inches off using the aw4 and the 231. I think the rear is going to be fine, because the slip yoke is well into the rear of the transfercase. I'm worried abou the front though becuase it has .5 inches less to compress when flexxed. I'd rather not pay ~80 to have .5 inches removed from the front shaft.

nate
01-14-2007, 11:10 AM
My buddy runs square shafts on his YJ. Tom Woods saw it and thought it was a pretty slick idea. :D

TrojanMan
01-14-2007, 01:33 PM
Unless you don't wheel much, you're going to find it a huge pain in the ass connecting and disconnecting your driveshaft every time you hit the trail and leave it. You could take it to a driveshaft shop to try and balance it, but I'm sure they'd laugh at you and tell you they won't do it because of safety factors. I'd say that the price outweighs the putting it on/taking it off every time, especially if you're caked with mud underneath.

I don't wheel enough for 5 minutes to be a big burden on my time. I also try to avoid mud.

redzj
01-14-2007, 07:13 PM
Because that's going to be expensive. The driveshafts are about .5 inches off using the aw4 and the 231. I think the rear is going to be fine, because the slip yoke is well into the rear of the transfercase. I'm worried abou the front though becuase it has .5 inches less to compress when flexxed. I'd rather not pay ~80 to have .5 inches removed from the front shaft.
If you can weld hex box why cant you weld your existing driveshaft? shorteing is REAL easy and if your careful shouldn't need re-balanced for a 1/2". If you are lengthing it you can get the tubing shceaper than the hex. Your still going to need yokes etc from somthing.

nova
01-15-2007, 12:17 PM
It's probably just as much to spend the 80. Figure out how much parts and labor will cost for the new one. I bet it's worth the little extra to have it done right.

Kraqa
01-15-2007, 08:34 PM
driveshaft vibrations are going to be a total bitch. that is why you only see those types of driveshafts on the front with lockout hubs or on the back of a trailered rig

negatory rigamortice!!!

as long as you wled the ends on relatily square once you apply torue to the driveline the 4 splines lock up and the shaft runs fine. and when you let off the gas it looses for a sec then the engine compression locks the splines in the other direction. i used to do 100k down the road with a rear squar shaft. no problem.

adam99wj
02-22-2007, 04:30 PM
tractor supply stores sell the tubing for slip joints its sort of a 6 sided star shaped , works well!!

CurtP
02-23-2007, 12:47 PM
tractor supply stores sell the tubing for slip joints its sort of a 6 sided star shaped , works well!!

They're for PTO shafts. They're available in several different configurations - I've seen them square, hex and splined.

zedjay95
04-04-2007, 12:24 PM
buddy of mine runs square tube for his front shaft it's loud but works awsome